Today I'm covering the basics of bed adhesion and bed adhesion types for 3d printer slicers. We go over the skirt, brim raft and no adhesion types, and discuss best practices using examples of each.
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Hey guys, Tech Nervous here.
Today we are going over a couple different types
of adhesion for some of the newbies and rookies out there
who don't quite know.
So, I have a couple of models here
and I'm gonna show you some differences
in the bottom surface,
which is what's mainly affected by the adhesion type itself.
So, the first one we're gonna start off with is no adhesion.
This model actually came out really well.
You can see a little defect in the corner here,
but for the most part, the bottom is super smooth.
Now, a lot of times when you print with no adhesion,
if your bottom layer is round
or pretty much not square or triangular in shape,
you will get lifting corners and things like that.
And that's because as the plastic is running this way,
this plastic is pulling it in.
And if you build up from that layer,
it's also pulling it up.
Now, the way to fix that is to run what they call a brim.
Now, this is a brim, as you can see.
It is just a super thin layer of plastic around the outside.
And what this does is applies tension
to that bottom layer in an outward way.
So, basically it pulls it out as this part's pulling it up,
which keeps it in place.
It keeps it from curling up, which you don't want.
The other alternative to printing with a brim
is my personal favorite, and this guy here is a raft.
Now, this actually comes off pretty easily.
And you don't get quite as fine a bottom surface
as you do just printing off PEI, but that's okay.
The nice thing about the raft,
and you can see the thickness of it here,
is that it goes down in separate grid layers.
So, it'll go sideways, spaced apart lines,
and then it'll turn the other way and go back this way.
The reason that that works really well
is because after you get up a couple layers,
you end up with this smooth surface to print on,
which is really, really nice.
So, with this, the thing you need to remember
is this can actually save a print
from a slightly unlevel bed.
And the reason why is because if it's a little bit higher
on this end, it won't put as much plastic
down on the bottom layer.
And then, as it comes over here, it'll even out.
And when it comes back to this side,
it'll still be at the same height as this side.
So, this is basically creating your own level platform
on the print bed, and it works really, really well.
Now, which adhesion type should you use?
That is the question.
There is another type that I didn't mention
that's called the skirt, and with the skirt,
your model's gonna come out like this,
but it's going to print this outer line from the brim.
Maybe a couple of them, there will be a gap between here.
The reason for that is to purge any leftover plastic
that may be in the nozzle before starting your actual model.
So, adhesion-wise, the skirt and no adhesion
are pretty much the same thing, effectively,
as far as what it's going to do to your model.
If you have a large, flat surface
on the bottom of your print,
you're going to want to do a brim or a raft,
just to keep those edges from curling up.
If you're putting a brim and or a raft on there,
and you're still getting edges lifting and curling,
odds are you're printing in either PETG or ABS,
which both have different amounts of warping,
depending on which plastic you're using.
Now, ABS is the worst,
and I've seen corners lift up off the bed
just from basically breathing on them.
The temperature difference between your breath
or a slight draft and the bed and the nozzle
separates layers or causes it to separate from the bed
and curl up.
So, there are ways to fix that.
If you're having curling with ABS in particular,
the adhesion will help a little bit,
but your main fix for that
is going to be to print a draft shield.
And what that is,
is basically just a one-parameter wall
that prints around the outside
to keep it from getting hit with cold air
and to keep the hot air inside
and keep it at a similar temperature
so it doesn't crack and split apart.
Now, the best thing to do with ABS
would be to use an enclosure,
but I do a lot of open-air printing,
and I don't have an enclosure.
Creality does make a nice pop-up enclosure
for making ABS prints now
that slides right over the Ender-3
and a couple other printers,
and it looks really nice.
I haven't tried it yet.
I do plan on getting one,
but I also need to get more ABS first
because it's not something I work with very often,
and I used my last spool of air recently.
So, we're getting a little off-topic.
Like I said, this video's supposed to be
about adhesion type.
Now, the thing is,
you're gonna know before your model even starts,
especially with a raft,
if your printer's going to work out
because if the raft doesn't work,
your print's not gonna work,
but if the raft adheres,
and you're getting a nice, even surface on the top layer,
your model's gonna stick right to that,
and it's gonna come out very nice.
The only downside, really, to the brim here
is that it is attached to your model.
You do need to remove it from the model.
It comes off rather easily,
and we'll remove it like we remove the raft.
You can see the benefit of this.
I didn't get it quite cleanly.
The benefit of the brim versus the raft.
This texture here is because of the top surface of the raft.
It's not as flat as my PEI,
so I do get a better surface finish using the brim,
but then I have to worry about cleaning up the outside edges
and making sure that they are not sharp
or dull or anything like that.
By dull, I mean sometimes when you pull away plastic,
you get lighter-colored white spots there
where the plastic used to be,
and it's obvious to tell
that something was attached there and removed,
and we don't want that.
We want it to look like it was meant to be this way.
It's a lot easier to remove
if you just get a burring tool and run it around the edge,
but that is acceptable for now.
In case you're wondering what this is,
I can't put it on just yet because I don't have...
I have the Z stopper,
but it's basically just an end cap cover
for the X-axis motor on the engine.
So it was just a quick test print
of something that was square,
something that was flat on the bottom
that I knew I could try with three different adhesion types.
Now that we've gone over that,
I encourage you to play around with your own adhesion types,
and depending on which model you're using,
like I said, you're gonna want a different adhesion types.
I'm doing a sculpted model
or a figurine or something like that.
I will use a raft
simply because it gives me a flatter base to print off of,
and I can tell if I'm gonna get a good print
before I actually get to the model part of the printing.
Like I said, if you're using something
that is a large, flat surface,
you're gonna want a brim
to keep the corners and edges from curling up.
And if you're just printing something small
or you're not too worried
about the shape being perfectly exact,
feel free to go without adhesion.
This is the one that was printed without adhesion.
Like I said, it came out really nice.
It does have this little defect right here.
I'm not sure what caused that,
but if there had been a brim around the edge,
I'm pretty sure that wouldn't be there
because it would have been flat with the bottom of the model.
That's it for this time, guys.
Stay tuned.
We will do a Bed Adhesion 102 at some point in the future,
but for now, this has been Bed Adhesion 101.
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