CRUCIAL Cura settings for PETG printing

Hey folks, Tekniverse here. Now two of my most commonly watched videos are on the following topics. So you have the Kira videos which between the tutorials and the update videos all tend to go over pretty well and you have my other two top videos at the moment are PETG videos. I get a lot of questions about PETG and I have a lot of people who have problems with it so I just wanted to let you guys know that there is a PETG profile that I use with my Ender 3 as well as several of my other printers. So the Anet ET4 and the ET4X both use the same profile. The TiVo Tarantula Pro uses basically the same profile with a couple of tweaks. So it is a very very versatile profile for PETG. So today in this video we're going to go over my Kira settings for PETG and show you how to set up your printer to print it properly and let you know the settings that are the most important to getting a good quality PETG print. So we're going to jump into that right now. The Tekniverse channel is brought to you by these fine Patreon supporters. Alright so as you can see I do have Kira open. We are going to go ahead and jump over to the browser real quick because we are in the tech sector and anytime you're doing something technical it is always good to have the spec sheet for the items that you're working with. This is going to help significantly when it comes to finding the right temperature and things. Now normally you'll find the temperature on the spool but we're going to go ahead and type in a brand and then PETG and spec sheet. Now I've chosen Polymaker just because it is a pretty well-known brand but you can find spec sheets for pretty much any brand that sells filament. Normally it will be on their website and it'll look something like this. So this is their spec sheet here and we'll open it up and take a look at the specifications. Now this is actually right here on their ordering page. You'll find this a lot of times on Amazon too in the details but the actual manufacturer site has a little bit more information. So you have a lot of good stuff in here from the recommended nozzle temperature for this filament to the recommended print speed for this filament to the recommended bed temperature for this filament. It also recommends a surface and it tells you what to do with your fan. Now this right here is really really important. The two recommended settings for your fan are low and off. You don't want your fan on medium or high that's for sure. I tend to leave mine off because as noted here it does lead to a slightly better product. If you're leaving your fan off and you're not getting the finish you want you can turn it on really low and that will help with the surface quality a little bit. It also lists some things such as the tensile strength and the bending strength and then you have your glass transition temperature and your drying settings and things like that. So if you look over here in the notes it says TDS that is technical data sheet. You can download that to get the technical specifics and then there is a safety data sheet as well just in case it contains any toxic chemicals or there is a special way of handling it. So everything you need is right here. I have most of this pretty much memorized. I'm going to keep special attention to this print speed between 30 and 50 here and we're going to jump over to Kira and set up one of my printers to print with PETG. Now as you can see I have the Ender 3 open and there are several other printers in here. I haven't set up my FL Sun Q5 to do PETG yet and it should go just hot enough to do that. So since I already have the rest of these printers pretty much ready to go with the PETG profile I'm going to jump over to my FL Sun. We're going to close everything because we're going to want to go through these one by one and make sure that we take care of those settings that were specified and then we will save it as a new profile so we can come back to it later. So quality, there's really nothing in here that matters as far as printing PETG. Of course you can change the layer height just like any other plastic and it shouldn't really affect your modeling. So we'll go ahead and close that. The same with shell. This is going to be the outside of your model. It might affect the quality of the look a little bit depending on how many skins you have. I do do four walls which is one more than normal but I end up with a slightly better finish and I normally can't see the infill poking out so that's kind of my my point of beginning there. So this is going to be a big one for some changes here. So now we're looking at material and this one specifically holds everything we need for PETG and we are going to start at 230 which is the low end of their recommended print specifications. I will tell you that is pretty average for starting with PETG although in a lot of cases you will need to turn it up to get proper flow but this is an adequate starting point. So we want to make sure that the initial print temperature is at least at the minimum and that the final print temperature is at least at the minimum for this filament and the reason for that is because if you get to the end of the model and it cools off and it is not pushing plastic or begins to under extrude the finish of your model will be really really poor quality. So it is recommending a build plate temperature between 70 and 80. Now there's a common misnomer especially with the Ender 3 if you're running a magnetic bed that states that you can demagnetize your mat if you turn it up past 70 degrees and I will tell you yes this can happen but it has to be turned up significantly past 70 degrees we're talking 110 120 degrees and it only slowly loses magnetism at that sustained heat for a long time when returned to room temperature it will return to being magnetic. So it is perfectly safe to turn up the magnetic bed on your Ender 3 to 70 80 85 degrees. I'm running glass beds on all the printers that I have on right now this one however is a specifically different bed it is a graphite bed or excuse me carbon fiber it is not removable so it's not glass but it has an interesting textured surface to it so normally with my glass I would leave this at 60 regardless of the recommended temperature settings it is there's nothing wrong with turning it up I just never needed it that high with this one though I am going to go ahead and turn it up to the minimum recommended because I know it won't do any damage to the bed or the plate or anything like that and it is what's recommended so I'm kind of doing this as a test for myself to see if there is any difference between 60 and 70 and why that it's recommended to go higher on the bed I understand when you're doing abs you're going to want the bottom to be really hot so it radiates upward and keeps the model warm especially if you don't have an enclosure you're using a draft shield or something like that but this isn't abs this is PETG so as long as we follow these settings properly we shouldn't need the bed up any higher than 70 degrees flow all of that can stay the same speed this is another one it was telling us to go between 30 and 50 I'm all the way up here at 75 so this printer can go pretty fast it's a delta machine let's try 45 to begin with we'll see what quality we get from that travel speed wall speed all this stuff is calculated based off of my print speed so I don't need to worry about that travel I don't need to worry about either we do need to look at cooling now right now it is turned on and we want to go ahead and either turn this off if we want a stronger model or we will turn it on and set the fan speed low to about 20 percent that is going to give me a slightly better finish the model will still be way stronger than PLA just not quite as strong as it possibly can support is going to be a personal decision to paste based on the model depending on what you're deciding to slice so we're going to leave that alone for now we are going to go into build plate adhesion and we're going to make sure that we have a brim turned on now the brim is going to help to prevent any lifting or warping from the corners which is one of the reasons they'd recommend that you turn the bed so high so with this combination I haven't really needed more heat works really well on glass with a glue stick at 60 degrees as long as you use a brim and I find that that brim helps me get under the model to remove it without doing damage to the actual corners and then I can simply remove the brim so this is basically it so let's go and take a look at what we want to do with these settings so if I want to go to settings printer no excuse me they moved it on me okay so let's do this profile manage profiles and then we're actually going to well these are all my old profiles okay let's see what's in here profiles a lot of a lot of different profiles that I could import okay well I seem to be having issues with this at the moment there we go create profile from current settings and override that's what I need right there so we're going to call this PETG Q5 mini and there we have it so now say I select a different profile that I can go back and select this profile now if I wanted to this is how I would put this online for you guys I would go and hit export and then go ahead and export it so then I have that profile and I can save that profile or move it or do whatever I want with it I will go ahead and put this one up on github let me know how it works out for you I'm actually testing it out right now as we speak and we will post some video later but for now that should get you going on some successful PETG prints and keep in mind that this is not just for the Q5 the settings that we went over the cooling and the temperature those are the two main settings for what you're going to do to change for PETG you need to be really conscientious especially about these things here the print temperature and the build plate temperature and then you need to keep an eye on the speed as well as the cooling so one quick note when it comes to speed different printers have different speeds that they're capable of printing at and pushing plastic depending on your extruder and things like that so those speeds are in there as a recommendation just like the temperature it is they suggest its starting point but that doesn't necessarily mean you're always going to end up within that range I have printed several things above and beyond their maximum recommended speed and gotten great prints I've also printed some things that I couldn't print at the recommended speed and that is normally based more on your hardware than the actual plastic itself so that's going to be it for this video guys I'll leave a link to the profiles down below should have all my profiles on my github page you can just jump over there and check out anything you might need feel free to rip it and strip it apart take what you need and use it how you like don't forget to leave me a comment down below let me know if this was helpful and smash that subscribe button because we have lots more future videos coming out on 3d printing and tech we do this pretty much every day and don't forget to tune in on thursdays for 3d thursday this week we are looking at the anet et4x and if you liked the et4 you will love this machine it is a great little cartesian so stick around and we'll see you in the next one well that's it guys that's going to wrap up this video if you've noticed a shirt the merch is available go ahead and check out the teespring merch link down below it won't be available on a channel store until I reach 10,000 subscribers and so far I am just about to hit 5,000 so it'll be a little while couple more months before you see this on the actual channel but they are available now I have a couple other designs feel free to pop over there and check them out and know 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