Why This Walla Walla Winemaker Won't Put The Grape On The Label

World of Grape Wine
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1 Video View·Aug 16, 2026
Most wineries tell you what grape is in the bottle.
Chris Figgins doesn't. At FIGGINS Estate in Walla Walla, Washington, the variety isn't the point. The place is.
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Ever pick up a wine bottle and had no idea what was inside?
Vickens Estate did that on purpose.
Varietals are a lens to the sight to get it to express something along that line.
Well it's part of why I didn't varietally label
the wines. It's such an American thing that we focus on
what is the varietal. You know we order a Chardonnay or a Cabernet or a Merlot
rather than what is the place. And using varietals as a lens to best express your
sight. So when I planted this I didn't just
plant varieties that I thought were you know
trendy or of general high quality. It was
what's the best grapes I can plant on this particular panel
that will produce the highest quality wine. Just like a
you know a painter would use different color paints.
You're not thinking about oh I love blue so I'm going to just
use blue. It's what is the the end outcome the end blend that I
want and using the varietals like that. You know after a few trips to Bordeaux
and to Piedmont I love this idea of the estate
the winery and the wine are just a continuum. You know it's just it's from
these four borders. The grape doesn't define
the wine. The place does. That's the difference between a varietal
wine and an estate wine. Why does one Cabernet
taste different than another just half a mile apart?
It's the land, the weather, the soil, the elevation, the
slope, the angle to the sun. The grape variety
reacts to that like your plants in your garden.
And that reaction, that expression you find back
in the wine. Higher elevation, thinner air,
stronger winds, extreme fluctuations in temperatures
that all result into a smaller berry, a smaller grape, thicker skins
that gives you more concentrated savory fruit.
And the high temperature fluctuation between day and night
preserves the freshness in the grape and the wine.
Freshness because of the acidity that's preserved.
Well draining sandy silt soils called luss over fractured basalt
leaves this layer of calcium carbonate that is known to leave a more minerally
chalky finish in the wine. And all that is the unique
expression of the place, of that vineyard,
at that site. So when you see in a bottle of wine
single vineyard or a state vineyard, the grape doesn't change, the place does.
And the place is the wine. I love when the wines, and let's taste
them. Yeah. I love when
people are literally looking at the vineyard and looking at the view
and drinking the wines because that's when you sort of get it. I know
every wine trip that I've made, and Piedmont in particular, is
that's the Figgins estate on your left by the way and the Philly on the right.
Yeah. Particularly in like Piedmont or Burgundy,
when you're tasting the wines and they're, you're literally looking, okay
see how the aspect changes mid-slope or the soil changes
and you can, and it actually shows in the glass.
The label doesn't tell you the grape, it tells you the place.
And now you know why that matters. Figgins estate wines are available at
SpokenWines.com.
