Surfing The Biggest Waves Of My Life?! (Raw Pov)

I've been on a remote island in the pacific and the swell we'd been waiting for had finally arrived. I met up with the local boys who'd been messaging me for the past year waiting for my arrival. When we first checked it from the shore we were so excited the waves were absolutely cooking. It wasn't until we climbed down onto the rock so we started to realize it might have been a little bigger than we thought. It's like double to triple what I've been surfing the other day so this is gonna be sick it looks so mental. Oh look at that! As soon as I jumped in I could feel the raw power of the ocean and after the first few duck dives I knew the surf was well out of my comfort zone. But it wasn't until we finally made it out the back and a wave almost three times my height rolled over us that I thought what the hell am I doing out here? I'm a small wave surfer. The GoPro makes it look so much smaller than it was but this might have genuinely been the biggest surf my life. Now let's see if I can catch one. It's way bigger than we thought eh? That might be one of the tallest waves I've ever caught with the GoPro in my mouth. That was sick. That's a really big. It's actually so solid. I'm even like trying to surf the waves I'm trying to survive. I don't know how the hell we're gonna get in. It's gonna be so red hot. Oh my god that's so big. Oh my god. Look at this. Crazy. I don't know how I'm gonna get in legends. Sadly this was the only clip I got from the shore of me catching a wave. This was one of the smaller sets still twice my height but it actually felt super mellow after the takeoff. Then the inside started doubling up into the craziest stand-up close-out barrel but I knew how shallow and rocky it was through there so I wisely straightened out and thank god I did. Now came the sketchiest part of the session trying to get back to shore. Holy f**k me. No. I almost died coming in bro. God legends that was intense. I was just getting ragdolled all along the rocks. The boys got in before me. I got so smoked. All right the boys trying to get in. It's so edge. Oh no. There's literally nothing you can do hey. Oh he actually got in sweet. It's 6 20 in the morning. Beautiful morning. And there's just reef breaks stretching out all along here. There's waves and the most psycho left barrel spitting. Oh my god. It's about twice. We've got a bit of traffic on the road. Nice man. A little right-handed. Empty little beachy. Look at this place. Oh oh I don't f**k out. What are you doing Nazza? Just quickly catching up on New Zealand. W as hell. While we do the walk up the mountains. Look at this. It's red hot. It's so dark now. Thank you so much for having me. That was such a sick trip. I can't wait to come back here one day.