Fall Garden Layout To Get The Most Yield From A Small Space.

The most difficult thing to learn when you're growing a garden here in Florida is timing. But the second most difficult thing is layout. So I drafted out four different garden layout styles that you can use in your fall garden. Welcome friend. I'm Petrina with Homegrown Florida and I have been growing in a one fourth acre property for the last decade, growing 70% of our own food and about 40% of our own fruit, although that is going up. And I want to talk to you today, everything about different kinds and styles of layouts. And we're going to do a raised bed. We're going to do a green stock vertical garden. We're going to do a grow bag garden and an in ground garden. So we're going to start out with a raised garden bed. This is an eight by four foot bed. If your bed is smaller, obviously just reduce the number of plants. So if you're using a four by four square foot bed, you're going to do about half as many plants. We're going to start in the far left back corner. It's going to be green onions and we're going to just do one square foot and you can fit about six green onions. Now green onions are a great plant. You could do bulbing onions, but you would have to wait a little bit longer. That's more of what I call a winter vegetable. We plant those out from transplants in November. But if you wanted to start with green onions, you could actually start those for your fall garden. A lot of the vegetables that you're going to see in this are warm weather crops, which is probably a little bit of surprise because most of the rest of the country is growing cold weather crops. We grow our cold weather crops during the winter. And if you guys really liked this video, make sure to head down to the comments and let me know because I could do another one for a winter garden. But we're going to talk warm weather crops because that's what we grow in fall here in Florida. So those green onions are more a warm weather where bulbing onions is really when we lead into like our winter weather. We're also going to be using those green onions as a companion plant. They're going to help kind of keep the pests away. We're going to put companion plants and basically all around the bed. So on the other side of this back part of the bed, we're going to put parsley. Now you could trade this out if you wanted to and just do basil, but, or, you know, maybe even dill, although dill particularly enjoys a little bit cooler weather, but you could do parsley or basil. I would say oregano, but it gets a little bit invasive. So just think about that. And you can use any kind that you want. You can use the curly leaf or you can use the flat leaf, whatever you prefer. Now I personally like one plant, but I think you could fit two in there pretty comfortably. Now the whole line of the back between those green onions and that parsley is going to be bush beans. Um, I didn't want to do vining beans, although they are more productive because we have something vining that's going to be in the front. So I wanted to stick with something bush. So we're going to do bush beans and you can fit about, I'd say four per square foot. And since it's an eight foot bed and we have one foot that's taken up by green onions and one foot that's taken up by the parsley, we've got six feet left. So six times four is 24 plants. We can fit 24 green beans. Now green beans. I like the bush style. I go with blue leg contender provider. Those are all pretty good ones. Um, but you just want it to run the length of that back part of the raised bed. Okay. Now let's talk about the center of the bed. Technically we have two square feet when we're talking about the center. So we have the back row, which is one full square foot from one side to the other. And then the center we're going to be talking about two square feet each because these are bigger plants. So we're going to start on the left side and we're going to put a kale plant. You could do a collard as well, whatever that big bushy green plant that you want right next to it. We're going to put a completely unpruned wild and crazy cherry tomato plant I like the large red cherry, but you could do a super sweet hundred, pretty much whatever cherry or grape size tomato that you want. You may want to go with an indeterminate. You are going to need a trellis. A tomato cage is one option. I particularly like the build a trellis so you can make it get taller and taller over time. I'll put that down in the description if you're interested in it. Um, but whatever works that you have used in the past, then right next to it, we're going to put a bush style pepper. Um, now you could go with a hot pepper here if you wanted to like a cayenne, a habanero, um, a chili pepper, whatever, but you can also do bush style peppers like the Hassanator, uh, the Ozark bush style peppers, bell peppers is what I'm trying to say here. You could also do a snacking pepper if you wanted those little mini snackings. Although I think with the mini snackings, they're a smaller plant you could probably fit too. And when it comes to a bell pepper, those tend to be smaller too. So you could probably fit too as well. When it comes to the hot peppers, those get really big. So I wouldn't suggest, uh, putting more than one plant there. And then on the far end, uh, past the tomato, past the pepper, we're going to put a zucchini. We're going to put a bush style zucchini. Now, a few of the ones that I like sunburst patty pan, love that one. Um, you can do gray zucchini, which is an heirloom. You can do dungeo, which is a hybrid, but it really does well in our heat and our humidity. Um, but really the, the idea is, Oh, early straight. Um, what is it early prolific straight neck squash. That's a yellow one. If you're into that. So that one kind of needs to be on the end for a couple of reasons. One, it needs this space. I mean, those things can easily take up four square feet, um, but it needs the space and being on the edge, it can kind of grow out over the edge and kind of lay off the side of the bed, which is going to help it. Now the star of the entire show is going to be the front row, the entire front row from left to right is going to be cucumbers. And I am wild about cucumbers this season. So that's why I'm very excited to grow them. But if for some reason you don't like cucumbers or you don't want to grow something like that, you can take extra plants from the ones we already discussed and put them there. Or you could go with a vining green bean or a vining squash on here, but we're basically going to create a flat panel trellis that is with two T posts on either end. And then you get a cattle panel or animal fencing and attach it with zip ties or the cattle panel connectors. And then we're going to grow, I want cucumbers across the whole thing. Now there's a ton of cucumbers that can work. There's quarantine mercury, sweet success, Boston pickling. There's a ton. If you didn't want to do the trellis though, you could still do this because you could go with the bush, the bush champion, the pickle bush. There's several different bush style cucumbers. So you don't have to go the trellis route, but I promise you growing some of these varieties of a trellis is going to get you a lot more yield or productivity. Your harvest is going to be much larger. Now, space wise, we're talking about one square feet across the whole front and we're going to do them six inches apart. So the max you're going to get in there is about 16, you know, 15, 16 plants, which sounds like a lot, but I want pickles for the next two years. And that's what's going to do it for me. Now we talked about companion plants at the very beginning. There's one more that we want to add here. And my particular pick is going to be calendula. And basically what I'm going to do is instead of finding one specific spot, like we did with the green onions or with the parsley, is we're going to sprinkle the seeds at when these plants are all babies sitting in there, you know, they're very young seedlings. We're going to sprinkle the calendula seeds. It's called broadcasting, but we're just going to put them kind of all over the bed. And you could do this with a lot of different flowers. You could do petunias because they like growing into the cooler weather. I think you could even do some dahlias because they don't mind growing into the cooler weather. What is it? Sweet Elysium. That one's a really nice ground cover. So our flowers are going to become the ground cover. That's going to keep our plants roots warm as we head into a cooler season. It's also going to keep them cool when we're still in the hot season. But the other thing it's going to do is it's going to bring in pollinators. We want flowers because it's going to bring the pollinators in. It's going to help with that squash, the cucumbers, the beans, the tomatoes, the peppers, all the things, right? But if you pick calendula, this is actually a flower that you can harvest and do something with. This is a great skincare product. It's a natural antibiotic. They call it hippy neosporin because the flower has so much antibiotic type properties in it. And I use it to make salves, lotion bars, body butter, all kinds of different kinds of lotions for like shaving or rashes, sunburn, you know, treatments like all kinds of stuff. So if you sprinkle that through the whole thing, one, you're going to get pretty. Two, you're going to get, you know, the coverage of the ground. Three, you're going to get pollinators. And four, you're going to get a harvestable item that you can use in your home. The next one we're going to do is a vertical planter. So these are the green stalks. You can buy these as other brands, but I particularly like this one. I have a whole series of all my tips and tricks of growing in a green stalk. So you definitely want to check that out if you're a first time green stalk grower. But let's talk about the style and the layout for the green stalks for fall. Now, a lot of these plants are going to be similar, but there are some differences, right? So we're going to start on the bottom tier. We're using a five tier original. So if you have the seven or if you have the leaf, we'll have to adjust this based on, you know, the types of plants that like to grow in them. Leaves like to grow smaller plants with smaller root structures where the originals can grow the larger plants with the larger root structures. But we're still going to be depending a lot on dwarf. So unlike the raised bed, we're not just going to stick plants throughout. We're going to actually put all of the companion plants down at the bottom. So we're going to have our basil. We're going to have our parsley. We're going to have our green onions and our calendula all at the bottom. That takes up four of the pockets. So there's two pockets open. So you can add some of the more invasive things like oregano or lemon mint or mint or bee balm. The things that we can put in our green stalks that we can't necessarily put in our raised beds. All of those, you know, companion plants down there at the bottom are going to help with things like pollination. It'll increase predators. It will be a trap plant to pull all of the bad bugs down to them, or it will deter them. All of these plants have different things that they do. The next one up, we're going to do peppers, but not just any peppers. I would kind of stay away from the hot peppers unless you can find a dwarf hot pepper. I usually stick to bell peppers and snacking peppers in my green stalk because the, you know, the habaneros and the cayennes and the chili peppers tend to get really big and bushy. And I think that the root system is just a little too aggressive for a green stalk. My personal opinion, you do you, it's your garden. But I would say in these, we want to stick to the bell peppers or the snacking peppers. Now, you can do one in every single pocket, but it's going to need a lot more fertilizer and a lot more watering and probably more watering and fertilizer than the rest of the green stalk needs. So if you don't want to have to be managing that too much, you might want to just do every other pocket. So you end up with three plants versus six. And make sure you get inventive with it. Don't just stick all green peppers. Put a red pepper, put a green pepper, put the little snacking peppers that are like this size, like put some color in there. It'll be so much fun. Now we're at our third tier, and here we're going to put bush beans. Same ones that we did in the raised bed. We're going to do contender, provider or blue lake. You can do other varieties if those are. Jade. How did I forget jade? Jade is another good one too. Now the green stock says that you can put three bush beans per pocket. I have done this. I have tested out three, two and one per pocket, and I have found that the one per pocket works the best. Two is OK. Three, I feel like you get hardly any production because it just it's fighting and competing for nutrients. So it's up to you. But I would probably stick to one or two per pocket and do the entire tier. Now, one thing to know when you're putting down beans or peas, especially in a green stock or a container. A lot of our potting soil mixes don't have the natural bacteria that's needed in order to help beans convert nitrogen. So you can either have to sit here and feed your green beans a lot with a nitrogen fertilizer or get an inoculant. I got mine from Home Depot. You can get them on Amazon. I'll put a link below. But it's just a bean and pea booster is what it's called, or sometimes it's called a bean and pea inoculant. It's just a bacteria and you could just put it on any bag soil. So like literally you can put it through all of the tiers. It won't hurt anything. I when I put my new beds in, I just sprinkle it through the whole beds. Even if I'm not growing beans and peas at that moment, it'll be there for years. So once you put it in there, like two or three years later, it's going to be there. All right. We're on to our fourth tier. And this is the tier I know everyone's been waiting for. And that's going to be tomatoes. But we're not going to do indeterminants and we're kind of going to stay away from determinants unless they're dwarfs. We really want a dwarf determinant. We want a smaller tomato. A few of the ones that I like are going to be something like Dora's Heartbreaker, Patio Choice, Tiny Tim. There's a bunch. And one of my favorite places to get all my dwarf tomatoes is going to be tomatofest.com. Check them out. They have a ton of tomatoes, but they have a lot in the dwarf in the micro dwarf area. But there's a few other places that have it. There was somebody who told me about, man, I'm sorry, I can't remember it. And if I can find it or if you were the one that commented it, they told me like of these whole series of dwarf tomatoes and where to get them from. And I meant to write it down. And of course, I didn't. And then I forgot it. But anyway, dwarf tomatoes are great because they produce a lot. And you can even like succession plant these. You don't have to do all six all at once. And they're kind of like the peppers. They are going to be a little bit like heavier feeders and such if you don't do every other pocket. But what you could do with the peppers and with these tomatoes is you could start your first three. And once you start to see them pollinating and you see tomatoes forming, put the other three in. By the time the micro dwarfs have finished putting off and ripening all their fruit, you could pull those out. And then you'll have three more right behind it. And you just keep replanting. It'll help with the nutrients. It'll help with the water and maintaining all that consistently without having six full grown plants in there. Now, the top tier, number five, this is where we're going to actually put some of the bigger plants. Some people put them on the bottom. And I have always found that when they get really big, being on the bottom, number one, my dogs bother them. But number two, they kind of grow up over the second tier and they start blocking some of the plants. But if you put them on the top tier and they grow big, they're not blocking any other plants up there. They might cast a little bit of shade below them, but it's not the same as when you put them in a middle tier. So we're going to start with a kale plant. Now, there's probably the most heat tolerant kale plant because we're starting to get into some of our cool weather plants. Kale and the next one, which is collards, are cool weather plants, but they can handle warmth a little bit better than lettuce can. That's why we're not doing lettuce yet. Lettuce is for winter. But the kale, probably most heat tolerant variety is going to be the Red Russian or the Lacinato, which is also called dinosaur kale. I particularly like growing prism, but it definitely is more of a cool weather plant. Doesn't love growing in the heat. But you're going to pick your favorite kale and you're going to put just one plant in. You're going to pick your favorite collard. Georgia Southern collards are great. What's the other one? Georgia Southern and it's not coming to mind. Sorry, guys. But there's you know, there's several. There's like a Florida variety that has been bred here for a long time. You're going to put that and put them on opposite sides because these get to be pretty big plants. In between, we're going to put bush cucumbers. So we're going to get away from the vining cucumbers that we did in the raised bed and we're going to go with the pickle bush, the bush champion, those style of cucumbers. Now, when it comes to the peppers, the tomatoes and the cucumbers, even though they're bush, they still need a little bit of support. So the easiest thing that you can do is get one little bamboo stick, push it down into the tear and then clip it using like a tomato clip or a tape tool or whatever you have to attach it to that bamboo pole. And the pole doesn't need to be big, guys. I'm talking like this, but you just need it to reach from the bottom of the tear to about a foot above the tear so that that way it just has stability. These are bush plants, so they will naturally try to hold themselves up. But sometimes they get a little bit lanky. So something to consider there. Now, if you wanted to skip that and do like a bush zucchini, you could try. You could try that. I've seen people grow bush zucchinis in these. I have not had the best luck. That's a really big plant with a very big root system. But it is an option, especially if you can find like some sort of really small dwarf compact one. You could try that. If you wanted to grow more tomatoes or more herbs or more bush beans, you can put those between your kale and your collards as well. The next one is going to be container gardening, and I'm going to specifically use that guy back there, which is a grow bag. Before we jump into that, I know I've been talking a lot about varieties and which ones to start for fall versus which ones to start for winter. If you're interested in learning all about all the different vegetables that grow here in Florida, make sure to check out my book, The Homegrown Florida Gardening Guide. It's on my website, homegrownfloridagarden.com. It has 30 chapters, a chapter for every different vegetable that you can grow here in Florida, along with all my favorite varieties, best companion plants, container growing, pest and disease management, timing, which we learned was the number one issue. And then also some tips about location. Make sure to grab your copy today. Now, moving into the grow bags, we're going to go with a pack of the 10-gallon grow bags. Technically, you could do the five gallons, but I feel like some of the plants we're going to use are a little bit big. 20-gallon grow bags, I reserve for things like potatoes, sweet potatoes, like very large root crops that are going to grow, ginger, you know, very large root crops. But for typical annual vegetables, a 10-gallon grow bag should be like the perfect, perfect size. And you can get a pack of them, which is awesome. We're going to do eight. And I'm just going to arrange them in whatever order you can put them in, whatever order you want. That doesn't matter that much. But for the back one, we're going to start out with a bell pepper plant. Earlier, we kind of talked about it in the raised garden bed that you could fit two in the place of one hot pepper. So you could do a snacking pepper and a bell pepper in one container. A 10-gallon grow bag, just give them a little space between them. Don't set them right next to each other. Right next to that one, we're going to do some more bush green beans. And so you are going to have to use the inoculant in grow bags because you are using a potting mix versus like an ingrown bed where you may have already grown them before. Pretty much inoculant is a good idea whenever growing beans or peas. So just add it and you'll be you'll be so happy with yourself that you did. Now, the way that you want to arrange these, I am definitely of the opinion to space my green beans pretty far apart. I'm talking like six inches. So in a 10-gallon, most of them are about as wide as they are tall. I would probably put five. But I think some people would argue that you could probably fit like eight in there. But I like the idea of putting them in a box, you know, one in each corner, basically, and then one smack dab in the middle. I feel like it's almost like the perfect spacing. But if you want to fit more, go ahead and fit more. We're not going to forget our companion plant. So the one at the far end here is going to be a basil and a parsley. And once again, kind of like with the peppers, we're just going to make sure that they're set a little ways apart. So at either end of the grow bag. And you could sprinkle in a little bit of sweet Elysium in there if you wanted to, to be like a cover crop for those two plants. Now, coming to the middle, we're going to have two plants here. The first one is going to be a tomato plant in a 10-gallon grow bag. You can pretty much grow whatever plant that you want. So you can grow in an indeterminate, but make sure you have a trellising method like the build the trellis or a tomato cage. But honestly, I feel like they get so tall sometimes that the trellis gets very unstable because there's not enough soil in the bag to hold it in place. So if you have a way of putting a trellis outside that it can climb, that's cool. Otherwise, I would stick to either micro dwarfs or a determinate style tomato. So determinate style tomato is just one that grows to a certain determined height. And then it stops and it puts on all of its fruit. We are not going to prune either style. We're not going to prune the indeterminates. We're not going to prune the determinates. And we're not going to prune the micro dwarfs. We're not doing any of that. We're going to let them get bushy and wild because the bigger and wilder they get, the more flowers that they put on. And that's what we want is a huge production here. Underneath it, to try to help with not only soil borne diseases, but also with pests, we're going to put some green onions. Now, green onions don't help with disease. But what they do do is they create like a soil covering, basically like a ground cover that we're going to be creating with these green onions so that that way when you water it, it doesn't necessarily splash up on the tomato. It splashes on the green onions, which is a better opportunity there. And we're also putting the green onions to deter pests away from the tomatoes because I don't know about you guys, but for me, the stink bugs and the late foot bugs have been unbelievable this year, as well as like the hornworms. Like we had such a bad past year this year. I'm hoping fall is going to be a little bit better. I digress. Let's move to the next one, right, which is going to be another pepper. But this time we're actually going to do a hot pepper. So we got our bell peppers and our snacking peppers, and we can put two in those pots in the hot pepper. We can only put one and you can use whichever one you want. Sky's the limit, guys. Enjoy what varieties out there, but just put one. This plant gets really big. It takes a little bit of time. It grows a little bit slow. But once it gets going, it gets really, really big. We are also not going to prune this. And you're also going to need something in there to help hold it in place because once it does get big and bushy, it might lean. Underneath the pepper, we're going to put some calendula. If you'd rather put petunias or dahlias or sweet alyssum, you can put that. But we're going to put some sort of flowering plant underneath our peppers. They're kind of sparse on the bottom side, which is like perfect for those flowers to get the light and sun they need, while also bringing in all of the pollinators in the predator bug. Now we're going to move to our front. We're going to start with a cucumber plant in the front left there. We're going to kind of build like a teepee trellis. These are my favorite for something like cucumbers or even vining squashes if you can get a smaller semi vining plant. But when it comes to cucumbers, they're great. A teepee structure, you can build it yourself using bamboo poles and just some twine. And just make sure that you put twine about every three inches so that that way the cucumber has something to climb. You can probably fit somewhere between three and five cucumbers in each one of a 10 gallon grow bag. I would lean towards three. But if you must, five is the max. In the middle, we're going to put our greens, right? You can go with kale or collards. You can't have both. I'm so sorry. You'd have to add another grow bag to be able to do one of each. Each one of these plants are absolutely huge, especially the root systems are enormous. They grow slowly, but give them enough time. These things become trees in some people's gardens. So you want to give it the full grow bag. And you don't necessarily want to grow anything underneath it because these guys do get bushy and they will like lay their leaves across the entire bottom and choke out anything that's growing underneath. But it's actually pretty good because it keeps the soil kind of cool when it does that. The one right next to it is going to be a zucchini. Once again, we're going to go with a bush zucchini. That's going to be your patty pan, your straight neck squash, your zucchini, something like that. And it's going to take up the whole thing to these plants get huge. Really fill that soil all the way to the top for this bush zucchini for all of them, really, but really, really for the bush zucchini. You want to give it as much space as possible because that root system gets huge. And don't forget, if you're growing in a greenstock or if you're growing in a grow bag, you really need to monitor your watering and you need to monitor your fertilizers. These need to be fed more often than an inground bed or a raised bed because of how much, you know, how much they're trying to grow in such a small space and they don't have the the benefits of the space that like a raised bed does depth and width. Now, the last one we're going to work on is an inground garden. You can see behind me here next to my pool cage. I do have some inground gardening. I have some along my fruit tree area and some right here and some up front, which is a really different kind of growing. But it's the easiest and fastest way to start a garden here in Florida. It can be a little bit of a challenge because of our soil. But inground is also a really great way. And the one we're going to be talking about today is usually between three, two to four feet wide. I wouldn't go I mean, me personally, I like three feet. But the length wise, you can go as long as you want. Some people do 50 feet. But for the sake of this conversation, we're going to do 15 feet because that's kind of like how long this is. Now, how many plants you can plant is going to be dependent on how much depth you have, whether it's the two feet, the three feet or the four feet. This garden right here, I believe, is only two feet. But if you can get three, you're going to get more. Now, the drawing that's going to be shown here is actually three feet so that it shows each plant within its little square foot. I still use square foot gardening, regardless of whether I'm talking about in ground or whether I'm talking about raised bed. I just think it works. But if you are growing in an area where you have rows like a big garden, you're going to want to put three foot path walkways in between each one of these. So we're going to start out on either side at the end of each of this row. We're going to have our companion plant. We're going to start out with basil at the top there. And then one underneath it is green onions. And so for the green onions, you can do six per square feet. So six times three, that's 18. But for the basil, we're going to do one per square foot. And we're going to head down a little ways and we're going to do a bush style tomato. And this is really going to take up about one to two square feet of width. And each one of them can be in a square feet of depth, if that makes sense. You're going to need a tomato trellis, whether it's a build a trellis, whether it's a tomato cage. And in ground, you can also get things like T-posts with cattle panels or animal fencing to attach the tomatoes to there because you don't need to go the whole length. You could just do that one row. And in ground, you can grow whatever kind of tomato you want. You can do indeterminants, determinants. You can do micro dwarfs, but I think those are better for containers. Just you could just get a lot more from an indeterminate or determinate full sized tomato. You can grow the cherries. You can grow the slicers. You can grow beefsteaks if you really want to chance it. I would definitely stick to cherries, plums and sometimes slicers for fall. Things like the Florida ones, the Florida 91, the Flordade, the Heat Master, the ones that are really designed for our level of temperature because we're growing from hot, hot into cool, which you would think that that would mean that, you know, we could we could grow a lot more variety. And we we can. You can grow a little bit more cold tolerant tomatoes, but we're starting them in the heat in July, August and September, depending on what part of Florida you live in. OK, after that, we're going to do our peppers. And these are one square feet by width and depth. So it's just a one actual square foot. You can do the bell peppers. You can do the snacking peppers or you can do a hot pepper. In fact, you have three spots. Why not do one of each? For the next one, let's do squash. And now I know my diagram here shows three squashes. So it looks like one square foot. I'm sorry I couldn't get the diagram to work the way I wanted it to. Tried. But for here, I would strongly recommend that each one of these squash get like three square foot. Think of it like a diamond. It needs a lot of room. It would be too long and three deep. And that would have two total plants in it. I hope that makes sense. It's basically like one and a half square feet per plant or two square feet per plant. But it's hard to do that in rows. So the way to think about this is they need a bit more space. They are going to get very, very large. So you want to give them at least one and a half of the space that you would give a pepper. And you can grow any kind of squash you want. And in fact, you could technically grow some of the vining squash just so that you can increase your productivity because vining plants are almost always more productive than bush styles. So if you like put these squashes next to the tomatoes, they could all share the same, you know, arch or the same flat panel trellis. You could even do like an A-frame trellis for these guys and help them grow up that. Then we're going to move on to our greens. We're going to have kale and collards right next to each other. These get big, but I mean, they're OK if they're a little overcrowded. One per square foot. So it means one kale, one collards, and then you can do three of them deep. Hopefully that makes sense. I'm having a really hard time explaining this, but hopefully the visual help right next to that. We're going to have our bush cucumbers. And once again, if you wanted to grow the vining style, you totally can just move your bush cucumbers. I wouldn't say right next to the squash because they do kind of attract the same pests. Maybe what you want to do is put the tomato in between and then put the squash on one side and the cucumber on the other if you want them all to be vining plants and growing up like a flat panel. But if not, this is a great spot in between the kales and the collards and separated a little bit from the squash with the companion plants, which we're going to talk about just a couple feet away. That felt like the right move to me. But when you have trellises, you have to do what you can do. Now, you could do a teepee trellis. You could do an A-frame right here. This is a really great opportunity for an A-frame. And cucumbers love growing up in A-frame trellis. And A-frames typically are temporary. So you can move them around. So this would be a great opportunity for that. You can fit three. I say three per square foot. I think some out there would say four or five. But I really think three is the magic number per square foot. So that's three spaces for three. So that'd be nine plants deep. Now we're going to move to the next one, which is going to be the bush green beans. Once again, you could do vining. You just have to make sure that your trellising system works. So honestly, now that I'm thinking about it, you know, it would be really cool. Squash, tomato, vining green beans. And then cucumbers, vining cucumbers. If you put them in that particular order and then put your kale and your collards behind it, that could be a way that you could set up one whole trellis for all of them to live off of. That would be really good. I think that would work out pretty well. But if not, you can grow the bush green beans and you could do six per square foot. It's 18 plants in that one square foot wide, two or three deep. Please don't make fun of me as I struggle with this. I have this weird thing about me. My husband finds it so funny when it comes to like length and depth and like those kinds of measurements. For some reason, I have a really hard time describing them. Like I always put the width where the depth should be in the depth where the width should be. I mix up length, width and depth. Like I just I can't wrap my brain around that. I don't know what it is. I don't know. I can use a tape measure. I just can't seem to explain it. And it makes sense in my mind and it works out when I do it in my mind. But like being able to relay it is like, I don't know, cannot compute. So now let's get back to the companion plants. We're at the very end. We're going to put some parsley here. If you don't like parsley, you can do more basil if you'd like. There are other herbs that you can grow like summer savory. I wouldn't grow the mints, the oreganos or the lemon balms because they are somewhat invasive and they can sometimes be hard. Once you put them in the ground, they're just like forever in the ground. So stay away from those. But there's a lot of other herbs that you can grow. You could do a purple basil on this end and a green one on the other end. And then right next to it, we're going to do a flower. I love calendula this time of year, but like we mentioned earlier, there's a lot of other different flowers you can pick from from dahlias where you could actually save the tubers. You could do the petunias. I love petunias, but they're kind of a little bit wild. I feel like calendula stays where it's at. Oh, another one that we haven't mentioned. Scabiosa. Scabiosa, I think is what it's called. Some aster, bachelor's button. Man, now I think about there's a lot that you grow that grow in the style that we're looking for, which is kind of like a bush style right there. That pop of color and the flowers that the pollinators come towards and want to be around and then pushes off, you know, the bad pests and encourages the predator insects. And it's medicinal, so you can use it as we go into winter. We'll change this flower out. Now, this one would probably stay, but we might add something like a borage. I think it's a little too hot in fall for borage here in Florida. But as we head into winter, borage is a great flower to grow, as well as dill is one of the great herbs to grow. If you're interested in seeing this same type of video for our winter garden, just let me know down in the comments and I will make sure to do something similar. And if there's some tweaking that you want, make sure to leave that, too. This is my first time doing this video, so I'm really curious. I think it's going to be really helpful. I hope it's really helpful. And if it is, I need to know. Thanks so much for hanging out with me today. I hope this gives you some inspiration for your fall garden, and I hope you have a wonderful season. Happy gardening.