Should you buy a USED NISSAN R35 GT-R? - What goes WRONG?

Look at this. It just exudes Japanese performance. Now, these things have an interesting reputation for reliability, but I would argue that compared to its European competitors, including those from Porsche, in the long run, these will give you less headaches. The top of third gear is so brutal, it's going to send you to prison. It is so addictive. Okay, you asked for it and we are delivering. The R35 GT-R has become one of the most requested cars we have ever had on Redriven. And you know what? Yeah, fair enough. These things were seen as supercar-slaying bargains when new, offering 911 turbo and Ferrari levels of performance, for often less than half their asking price. But these days, the GT-R has become even more tempting, because you can pick up a used R35 here in Australia from as little as $70,000. And yes, at the other end of the spectrum, the pricing can easily top half a million dollars, but we'll get into all of the nitty-gritty details really soon. First of all, and before you go racing out to buy one of these, we do need to cover what commonly goes wrong with them. How about we start with the exterior? Okay, first of all, some of the earlier cars, the paint was renowned for being thin and easily scratched and stone-chipped. In saying that, some of the later model cars, specifically in darker colours, apparently they can scratch and chip pretty easily as well. Also on paint, just check around the rear wheel arches, because these are susceptible to stone chips. So therefore, check for any signs of dodgy repair work or shitty paint. Okay, next up, and specifically on the earlier models, check for any signs of paint bubbling at the bottom of the A-pillar just here, or even under the mirror. The problem here is that the aluminium underneath can oxidise, and then this just bubbles the paint. Looks like corrosion. Also, check along the bottom and the top edges of the door for any paint bubbling or corrosion signs as well. The issue here is that the robot that picked the door up had this tendency to rub off some of the galvanising at the bottom of the door, so therefore, over time, the paint sort of bubbles. The boot lid can be guilty of this too. Now, Nissan were fixing this under warranty, but owners of earlier cars that are only experiencing now are claiming that a lot of Nissan dealerships are refusing to hear about it, because the car is well and truly out of its five-year paint protection warranty. Okay, next up, and again on earlier models, the headlights were guilty of building some condensation inside. Now, this shouldn't affect the performance of the headlight. It just looks a bit nasty. The problem here is to fix it just requires fitting an all-new headlight. Now, unlike plenty of this car's European competitors, there are hardly any reports of electrical gremlins. In saying that, there are a couple of reports floating about that the power folding mirrors can have some issues. The drama with that is you have to buy an entire new mirror housing to fix it, and that won't be cheap. Now, the entire undertray is susceptible to any aggressive speed hump hits, and look, we normally recommend that you climb underneath and have a look for yourself, but I tell you what, if there was ever a car that required a pre-purchase inspection to check this sort of stuff out, it's one of these. In fact, you know what? I'll go as far as saying that if you're looking at buying one of these and you don't get a full pre-purchase inspection carried out, you're an idiot. Okay, next up, the tires. Obviously, check the wear pattern, but especially check on the inside edge of the tire. These things are a serious performance car, and they're not exactly the lightest thing out there either, and they do have a bit of an appetite for tires. Also, just on the tires, make sure that the previous owner or owners have fitted premium quality rubber. These things only perform at their best on quality rubber, and if they're cutting costs when it comes to the one thing that touches the road, where else are they cutting financial corners? Now, while you're down here, have a look at the discs. Now, these things, as standard, are Brembo rotors, but the problem is, if these cars are pushed really hard, the little holes can crack around the outside. The actual OEM replacements are crazy expensive, and also, a lot of owners tend to go to an AP or an Alcon rotor, because they've got like a J-hook rather than the drilled cooling system, and that can cost many, many thousands of dollars. Just make sure that the tires, the brakes, everything in this area, it's all premium, high-quality stuff. Now, a few older examples are starting to experience some issues with the struts, especially at the rear, but with how far suspension technology has come, you might be better off fitting some quality aftermarket coilovers rather than the Nissan OEM items, because according to the owners and those in the know, really good suspension can completely transform these cars. OK, next up, here's a hot tip. Get it? Is it? Anyway, just make sure you check for any signs of staining of the paint above the exhausts, because this could be a sign that the car has had its cats removed, or maybe it's been tuned incorrectly, or maybe it's just running rich. Now, you may have noticed a bit of a trend through that whole section of the video that the earlier examples are maybe more susceptible to common issues than the later examples, and that's because Nissan constantly honed and improved the GT-R all through its lifespan. Even within the same year, there are always these subtle little improvements along the way. However, in saying that, there are three main iterations of the R35 GT-R. The CBA, the DBA, and the EBA. Basically, each iteration brought improvements to the levels of refinement and the quality of the interior materials, progressively added more performance thanks to mapping and mechanical changes, and it also updated the aesthetics too. Now, hot tip, the easiest way to recognize which of the three iterations you're looking at is to check this section of the car out here. Now, obviously, there is so much more to the R35 than just that, and if you do need all of the specific details and you want an easy-to-refer-to list of all the common issues, go to redriven.com and check out the free R35 GT-R cheat sheet. It will answer all of your questions. Now, when it comes to pricing, I know at the start of this video, I mentioned that you can buy one of these from as little as 70,000 Aussie dollars. But there is a caveat to that. At that price, it's probably going to be a Japanese import. Now, that's not necessarily a bad thing because it's 70 grand. My god, this car offers so much bang for your buck, but just be careful because there are some dodgy importers out there. Now, please do your homework on this. Only work with reputable importers. We've worked with Colton Classic and Go Garage here in Sydney. Those guys are awesome. Don't buy off an even slightly dodgy importer because we've heard some horror stories, falsified documents, cars turning up that simply aren't what the person was selling them in the first place. Just do your homework. Also, another caveat here, if you are looking at one of the JDM imports for the Australian market, it needs to be built before any of the Australian-delivered GT-Rs. So that's March 2009. But when it comes to pricing overall, obviously the newer the car, the more money it's going to be asking. And also, it does seem that the Australian-delivered cars, they tend to hold their value more than the imports. And obviously, the cars asking north of $300,000, they're going to be Nismo models or end-of-production-run cars. But you know how the GT-R pretty much built its reputation being able to blow supercars away, both in terms of performance and value for money? Well, you know what? The used market only enhances that. For example, let's take a 2015 GT-R Premium and its arch-nemesis, the 2015 911 Turbo. Brand spanking new, the GT-R was retailing here in Australia for about $172,000. These days on the used market, with about 50,000 k's on the clock, you're going to be looking at about $160,000. That means it's lost around about $12,000 in nine years, or about $1,300 a year. But the 911 Turbo, brand new here in Australia, it was asking around about $385,000. These days, nine years later, with about 50,000 k's on the clock, you're going to be looking at around about $270,000. That's a loss of about $115,000 in those nine years, or about $13,000 a year. So how much would you prefer to lose in depreciation? $12,000 or $115,000? And that's not even taking into account the cost of parts and labour, which yeah, I know for a GT-R it's still going to be expensive, but nowhere near as much as Porsche prices. And look, I know the 911 is undoubtedly a motoring and design icon, but look at this! This is, it just exudes Japanese performance. I just, I love that the designers didn't try to make it look European or American. It is so clearly Japanese. I'll go as far as saying that you could show this to someone that has no knowledge or interest in cars, but it's just, it's clearly Japanese. And there are so many design highlights I just love. How sharp and defined this angle is. How the whole front arch assembly here looks like it's almost its own entity. How the wing looks big enough that it actually has some aerodynamic impact, but it's not so big that it makes you look like a total wanker. And how the entire design just has this, like a minimalist feel to it. However, and look, I want to warn you, this might be blasphemy to all the GT-R fans out there, but personally, I've never liked the look of the Nismo models. I get that all of the wings and carbon fibre bits and pieces all over it add downforce and all that aerodynamic benefit, which let's be honest, unless you race cars for a living, you're never going to feel the benefit of that stuff. But for me, the Nismos, they just, they detract from the cool, sophisticated look, the understatedness of the R35. Destroy me in the comments, go on, I dare you. Okay, now, common problems and issues inside. The first one has to do with the key. Owners mentioned that you should not lose the key, because a genuine key, including the recoding from the dealership, can cost in excess of a thousand dollars. Next up, on the pre-2016 cars with the older infotainment systems, some of the controls can get a little bit sporadic in use, especially the volume control knob, it can just stop working entirely. Now, this could be just a cheap and easy fix, maybe the contact on the back of the problematic button just needs redoing and that will solve it. However, if it's a more insidious issue, the entire cluster might need replacing. The problem with that is a new OEM part is going to be very, very expensive. Now, you could go and find a used part from a Wreckers or something, but even then, the problem might just end up coming back down the track anyway. Also, on the subject of the infotainment systems, the screens themselves, specifically on the earlier cars, these things can be riddled with issues. They can flicker, they can turn black or blue, or just be really slow to respond. Now, there's loads of advice on how to fix this on the owners groups and forums. Sometimes, it can just be a simple fix of the screen, that can be like a thousand dollars. Other times, you might need to replace the entire system. Now, one of the issues here is that if you want to keep the car as original as possible, finding new examples of the old screens is becoming near impossible, and while you can update early cars to post-2016 infotainment systems, it's bloody expensive. You're looking in excess of $4,000. Or, obviously, you could just ditch the whole thing and fit aftermarket equipment, and there are loads of different kits available to do that. That means you'll also get Apple CarPlay and Android Auto that these cars, they didn't get until 2018. Next up, the LED lighting behind the gauge cluster. That's a known problem, and also, it's a bit of a pain in the arse to fix. Also, on LED issues, just make sure that the LEDs on these mode panels, they all work properly as well, because that's another common issue. Also, and this one, again, seems to impact the earlier cars rather than the later ones, and especially with the Bose sound systems, the speakers in the doors can rattle and sound horrible. They'll sound especially horrible if you're playing any kind of country music through them too. Okay, now this one really sucks. These dashboards, again, in the early ones, they're renowned for cracking. Even this one, it has some cracks on it. Now, the problem here is replacing the dashboard can cost $4,500, $5,000. However, plenty of owners recommended that you just get the entire dashboard reupholstered. That way, you can have, like, a leather finish or even Alcantara. That can often be cheaper than replacing the original dash. Also, some owners mentioned that some of the earlier cars' interior plastics can get a little bit on the brittle side, and the finishes can scratch really easily, just like around here. But again, this is going to vary depending on the year and the model of the car. Actually, just back to the owners groups and forums for a sec. Look, it's no surprise that these things have a huge community surrounding them, and they are so, so supportive. We joined loads of owners groups and forums to research this, so a massive thank you to all of the members that helped us put this video together. But you know what? What are these interiors actually like to live with? Well, they tend to cop a fair bit of flack regarding the design in here. A lot of people sort of claim that it feels a bit cheap and nasty and not premium enough for a car like this. I completely disagree. This car is from 2008. It's got over 35,000 k's on it, and I think the interior is great. Okay, there is some cracking on the dashboard and some, you know, bits of scratchy plastics here and there and some paint missing and whatnot. But overall, I think the interior really suits what the car's about. Okay, sure, it's not like Audi RS5 levels of, wow, this is a schmancy interior, but it certainly doesn't feel cheap and nasty at all. But the thing is, the whole interior vibe can change dramatically depending on the year and the model you're looking at. What I mean is that there were some small changes, for example, some of the really early cars, this panel was just black plastic, then Nissan changed to a dry carbon fibre finish, through to huge changes. Like post-2016, the entire centre console changed in design. And even in terms of materials used, the higher up the food chain, or the more recent up the food chain you go, there is a big, big increase in the quality of leathers and plastics and carbon fibre and stuff like that. Basically, thanks to the year-on-year updates and the nine different models available in Australia, the interior atmosphere can change dramatically. Also, internationally, the changes to the interior can be even more prevalent because there've been over 15 different models available. Now, in terms of ergonomics, look, the last R35 I drove had the Recaro seats fitted, and it was about as perfect as driving ergonomics gets. The adjustability in the seat is really, really good, as is the steering wheel. I just, I find with the standard seats, it's like 92% of the way there for me. It's not quite perfect. It's still a really lovely place to sit and everything feels in the right spot, but, oh, it's so close. The Recaros fix it. And then as far as actually using the interior in terms of practicality, you've got a pretty small little glove box there. You've got a spot down here that you throw your keys and they'll rattle around all over the place. Two cup holders, but unfortunately, I know from experience, they don't hold small pretentious coffees like I like to drink, like an espresso. It just falls all over the place. Got a little cubby bin just here that will fit your phone quite nicely just there. You've got okay-sized door bins. They're actually pretty crappy-sized door bins. And a spot for sunglasses just here with a plastic thing that seems to get a little bit stuck. And then when it comes to using the interior features in terms of technology, yeah, look, this is feeling its age. It's 16 years old. A 16-year-old laptop feels like it's running on Steam these days. So Bluetooth connectivity isn't all that stable. The whole system can be a little bit slow to respond. It's not too bad, but you know what? Just budget for a better aftermarket system. Also, forget any modern levels of active safety equipment. There's no autonomous emergency braking or active lane keep assist or any of that sort of stuff. But this is a true driver's car. How safe it is should be your responsibility, not the car's. However, even in the early standard models, you still get a pretty good range of kit. And as you climb up the food chain, there are some really cool features like Bose active noise cancelling and 11-speaker premium sound systems. Again, for all the specific details of everything you need to know, go to adriven.com. It's on the free cheat sheet. It's time for another Wipertech challenge. Will it wipe today's victim? Eggs. Now, before we see how they wipe, Wipertech wiper blades are so easy to order online. They're a breeze to fit. And if you order a set via the link, you're going to get 15% off and free express shipping. Let's see if they wipe. GoPro. That's done a great job. Oh, we're out of water. These things absolutely nailed that. So they're easily going to handle anything that you can throw at them. Get yourself a set today. Also, as a huge thank you to Yes for lending us his GTR, he's going to be going home with a set of these awesome blades. And if you'd like a set for free, all you've got to do is live in Sydney or Newcastle and lend us your cool car to make a video on. And if we feature it, you're going to get a free set as well. Also, one more thing on Yes. He's selling this car. If you'd like to buy it, the link is down below. I don't know why he's selling it, but you could buy it. Hit the link. Now, in the backseat, I'm exactly seven centimetres taller than R35 owner and world's fastest man, Usain Bolt. This is in my driving position and it's terrible. I get that these cars have backseats for legislation reasons and whatnot, but this is ridiculous. There is no foot or leg room. I'm just squished in here like a bits of tuna in a can of tuna. Sardines, like a sardine. As far as features and practicality back here, but Uno cup holder, matte pockets that you can't get to because your feet are squished up against them. And that's about it. Oh my God. Good to get a tan. Okay, you know how the 911 is always regarded as being the everyday usable performance car of its class? Well, here's a fun fact. It has a front trunk boot capacity of 135 litres. This one, 315 litres. Honestly, it's pretty bloody spacious back here. So this is more practical. In saying that, the actual opening aperture is quite small and it's quite a deep distance from here to the bottom of the boot. So if you're loading anything heavy in, like a really heavy suitcase, that could be a nightmare. And now to what the GTR is all about. What is this thing like to drive? Let's cover the common issues and complaints first. First of all, if you're test driving one, find a car park and do some full lock turns. And listen for any juddering or wheel hop coming from the front end. If it's coming from the rear end, that's totally normal. But from the front, that's a red flag. Now these transmissions, they don't have a fabulous reputation for reliability. And Jim, our resident mechanic, will delve into that in a second. But when you're test driving it, just make sure that all the gears engage accurately and with confidence. And if the gear indicator is flashing, or if you change from reverse into first and it wants to skip into second all the time, not a good sign. Now some people, I'm going to guess not actually owners, complain that these early models are just a bit too raw with all the driveline clunks and whirring and noises. Personally, I think all of this stuff just adds to the car's character. I feel like it gives it this, like a feeling of energy, like it's a living, breathing beast of a thing. Next up, a few people, especially car journalists, have complained that the early car suspension is just way too stiff, even in its comfiest setting, for daily driving. And yeah, look, okay, it is definitely on the firm side. It's nowhere near as bad as the internet will lead you to believe. And anyway, this is easily fixed with some quality aftermarket suspension anyway. But you know what? Maybe the biggest issue this car has is that our roads, or more accurately, our road rules, just don't accommodate to what a GTR is capable of. And you know what? Yeah, I totally agree with that. And anyway, we've all seen countless videos of what these things are capable of at the limit, and how fast and insane the performance is. So there's just no point in me repeating what we already know. And look, as painful as this is to hear, compared to how often you're going to have a chance to really flex your right foot and explore what this car can do on a public road, you're going to spend way more time decelerating and jumping on the brakes. Otherwise, it's going to be, hello officer, yeah, here, please take my license. But then when you do have the opportunity to plant that right foot, Jesus, like this is a stock car, but that is still, that is still very, very quick. And I've got a warning for you. The top of third gear is so brutal, it's going to send you to prison. It is so addictive. Top of third gear, I mean, not going to prison, I assume. Honestly, no other car I've driven coaxes you into driving like a complete dickhead like an R35 can. But the thing is, we all know about the performance credentials. Here's the stuff that no one talks about. The newer models with more power, I don't think are more enjoyable than the older models with less power and less refinement. These things I think are more fun. And on the subject of risking sounding like a wanker, this is going to sound a bit car journalist speak, but the early models, the steering, I feel like it has more communication and more, there's more like tactile feedback through the steering wheel than compared to the newer ones. And also, nobody talks about the sound of these. Okay, it might not be as musical as the V10 in an Audi R8, but these things with the right intake and exhaust system, they sound incredible. Also, this is a decent size car and it's renowned for the fact it's not exactly lightweight, but it doesn't feel that big to drive. Negotiating traffic or trying to reverse park it into a tight spot, you'd think it's going to be really intimidating, but it's not. It's actually really easy to live with in the real world. But the big thing that nobody talks about with the R35 GTR, because the focus has been on its giant slang capabilities from when it was brand new, is the fact that these are genuinely fun to drive at any speed. You think it's going to feel all serious, like it's just totally focused on lap times or winning traffic light Grands Prix, but it gives you this sense that it just doesn't take itself too seriously at all. Also, I find it interesting that a car that was this technical tour de force when it first came out, now feels basically old school in analogue and in such a wonderful way. But here's a question. As wonderful as this thing is to drive, will the mechanical gremlins ruin the story? Well, unfortunately, I can't answer that question because I'm not a qualified mechanic, but you know who is? It's Jim. Look, engine-wise, in standard form, unmodified, if they've had a good service history, you're extremely unlikely to have any issues at all. Things like coil packs and water pumps that are common failure points in any cars, on these are actually less likely to fail. And just on those water pumps, they are actually internal and gear-driven by the timing chain, so they really are built to last, and they do. On the earlier models, you are going to start seeing some age-related issues like fatigued plastics on electrical connections and coolant fittings, so that's just going to be a player-by-ear type of thing. But yeah, age-related issues are starting to creep in. Occasionally, too, we are seeing some turbo oil seal issues and a few oil leaks around timing cover and the sump as well. But overall, mechanically, engine-wise, very, very robust. Now, the transmissions in these, that's what everybody's talking about. And as my mate Doug says, they do have a few quirks and features. The earlier ones, the pre-2011, are slightly more problematic. In those, you can have some missed gear shifts and some odd or even selection complications. And often, that's caused by the shift actuators just wearing and misaligning. It's actually a relatively easy fix. You don't have to take the whole transmission out. You've just got to drop the valve body. And once that's out, you do the TSB clip or the valve body aligning clips. They just align the magnetic sensors in the shift actuators, and they work properly. But even when they are working properly, anyone who's driven one will tell you they just have all the clunks and bangs, but actually, that is pretty normal. And as I'm sure Adam alluded to, it all just adds to the GTR theatre. There are a bunch of Nissan transmission control module software updates that do actually smooth it out a little bit as well. And that helps with some of the launch control issues as well. Some of those launch control issues can be caused by worn clutches in the ETS system. That's just the torque biasing setup on these things. That is actually more of a comment on ones that have been really frequently tracked or launched repeatedly. Other issues you can have in the transmission can be caused by the temperature and pressure sensors inside the transmission. Now, quite often, that'll feel relatively normal just at low speeds driving around town. To see those problems or to feel them to be more accurate, you really need to get the thing right up to operating temperature. So it's 90 degrees Celsius or over. So if you're looking to buy one, make sure you go for a decent drive in it. Now, another really common problem in the drivetrain is the bellhousing rattle. So at the back of the engine, there's a drive coupling and a bearing, basically, at the back of the bellhousing that supports the front of the tower shaft. That bearing just wears out and you can hear a terrible rattle when that happens. There are upgrades to do it and you can replace the bearings. There's a few ways to fix it. My tip is just do the drive plate while you're in there and do the upgrade and you're unlikely to have any other issues if you upgrade it. Other issues you might see, it's not terribly common though, ABS control module complications. And from a servicing perspective, one of the biggest pains in the ass is, and it's more of an issue in wet and cold climates, that all the bolts and brackets that hold all the under trays off, which you have to take off for servicing, all those bolts just strip and they break off and you've got to replace the bolts or the brackets sometimes. Preferably do it, replace them with stainless steel bolts and then you'll have less of an issue later. Another thing is a pretty common wear point, but it is a common wear point in anything high performance really, is the lower control arm bushes. They just wear out pretty quickly. So you'd be prepared to do them every, you know, every few years or 30,000, 40,000 Ks. And just on those lower control arms, there are plenty of high performance, you know, improved quality upgrades available as there is for all of the suspension components, basically. There are so many options and some of the top end stuff can really transform these cars into something incredible. So overarchingly, yes, they are incredibly reliable. Yes, we know that. But if it's tuned or if you beat the living ---- out of it, it is going to break. So if you're looking to buy one, maybe start with something that's not tuned. And like I always say, if it's been modified, just make sure it's being done by a reputable workshop with, you know, good quality parts. So yeah, basically, if it's making 800 horsepower or more, you know, all bets are off in terms of reliability. But there's something else you need to consider if you're potentially buying one of these, and it's what else could you buy for R35 money? Well, when we're talking two-door coupes that have the ability to alter your perception of physics, well, at the lower end of the pricing spectrum, you could have the BMW M4 or AMG C63 S and the Porsche 996 Turbo. However, at this budget, really, only the 911 ticks the supercar-slaying box that the GTR is also renowned for. And then move north of $150,000 Aussie dollars and there's another all-wheel-drive twin-turbo six, the latest BMW M4. Or how about adding a huge dose more theater to the garage with an AMG GT, an Audi R8, or its twin-under-the-skin sibling, the Lamborghini Gallardo, not to mention the more serious Porsches like the 997 Turbo and Cayman GT4. Then top $200,000 and you could easily seat yourself in an Aston Martin Vantage or a DB11, a McLaren 540C or 570S, not to mention, you then start delving into 911 GT3 territory. And when we're talking R35 sort of money, there's a chance that you're probably going to be financing it, right? If that is the case, don't get ripped off. Make sure you hit the driver link down below. Driver will source you the very best finance package from loads of different lenders. The entire application process is done online. It's so easy and it's completely free and there's no hidden fees and you can get the cash in your account in no time. But you know why we think you should buy an R35 over so many of the other alternatives? Not only is its performance still off the charts and it's actually pretty practical and as long as it has a faultless maintenance and ownership history, it's proving to be decently reliable. We love its complete lack of pretense and its ability to still embarrass cars with far fancier badges. Not to mention, it seems to be holding its value to a degree that plenty of other European cars could only dream of. Actually, you know what? The R35 GT-R is basically the classic Seiko of the car world. Build quality that matches the best European stuff, outperforms plenty of the fancy brands, tough as nails. It has genuine pedigree and yet a distinct lack of brand name bullshit and marketing hype. No wonder we love it. However, there is another car that ticks all of those boxes and it also happens to be more practical than this and it arguably sounds better. It's this. But if you weren't to buy this or this, what would you buy instead? Let us know in the comments. See you next time.