SYLVANIA Brightens the Future of a 2010 Toyota 4Runner Project Backcountry Revival Part 3

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Video Summary
AI GeneratedThe video demonstrates the process of upgrading the off-road lighting on a Project 4Runner using Sylvania light bars and pods. The presenter evaluates different product series based on durability and lumen output, fabricates custom mounting brackets, and explains the electrical principles of using relays to safely wire the high-power lights into the vehicle's existing switch panel.
We're back with our Project 4Runner here and as you can tell it's getting a little dark out here
and although we are good with our light for driving on the road, we're a little lackluster
when it comes to off-road because there are no city lights to help us out when we're out there.
We have a few different Sylvania light bar and pod options and we're going to take this thing
inside, we're going to go through those, we're going to figure out what fits our build best
and we're going to get into how to install them and wire them into the vehicle.
All right, well we got her back in the shop now and we're going to start looking at this bumper
and where we want to put some lights. It's just a matter of what's going to look good
and what's going to work good for their intended purpose. So as you can see we have a bunch of
lights to choose from, we're not putting all of these on the vehicle, but we are going to pick
a couple to go on and today we're going to start with one light bar and we have a few options here
and a few you don't even see on the table as well as we have a whole bunch of pod lights that we can
choose from. We're going to break them down like this, there's a few different series that Sylvania
makes. They make a slim series, the compact design of the slim series allows you to install these
lights almost anywhere. Then you move into your rugged series, the rugged series made for really
getting bashed you know being out in the elements. The rugged series is waterproof and has the most
durable construction to withstand rough environments and then we move on to the ultra
series and the ultra series is where you're really getting the light. We're not trying to package it
super small, trying to give it enough heat sink is what it looks like. The ultra series has the highest
lumen output for ultimate visibility. So I really like these rugged series, I think they look real
slim and nice. I like the square face, I like how small they are. This is 3600 lumen in a 10 inch
light bar and then you move down here to the ultra and you're getting over 9000 lumens out of a 20
inch bar right there. So there's a lot to choose from, we got some more flood specific lights like
this guy right here. The main difference between floodlights and spotlights is the beam angle.
Floodlights have a wider beam to illuminate a larger area while spotlights have a narrow beam
to highlight a specific area. We're going to see what kind of looks right, we'll talk a little bit
about what we're thinking we're going to do and then in the end it'll probably be none of those
things combined and we'll put some lights on this car. Let's see what this looks like, oh I might
almost like that. This is over 9000 lumens, that is three times almost what the other light bar is
and I have a feeling the people that drive this are used to having really nice lights on their cars
so this is a really nice light. I think maybe we do this and add some rugged series down below it
in pod lights so in case you don't need this much light or let's say it's foggy and you want just
some light a little lower pointed at the ground, maybe we run those in a flood type of light.
I'm gonna think about it for a minute and then you're gonna see what I chose.
Here's what we got going on, I looked at the tab we had, if you were in your garage and you had a
you could cut it off and give a little bevel, it's just going to make the light bar real tight
to the front bumper. So what I did was I made one that just adds a little bit of height to it,
drew it in QCAD. I'm no expert, I've got maybe 10 minutes of training from my buddy Kendall over
here on how to use QCAD but it's really just putting geometric things together and erasing
lines and coming up with something. Really not that hard, it looks real daunting you deal with
one of these plasma tables but it really isn't that hard. All right so we cut the tab, you can
see all the slag off of it right here especially on the back which wasn't the cleanest cut but
we're just going to tap it on some metal, clean it off a little bit and it should just pop right off
and then we'll test fit it on our light and I gave it a little kind of half swoop here so
we can weld it to the bottom of the actual deal. Oh watch this, this is how I'm going to clean it.
So we got our tabs on there, we're going to try to get it as good as we can with the old icrometer
here and then we'll clean up this bar and we'll tack weld this in. I think it's looking pretty good.
All right we've tacked it in place, maybe we're within an eighth of an inch, it's kind of hard
to tell. These look bent, Kendall says it's off, it looks on to me, you know is the bumper straight
to the car? It's kind of a middle ground but it's definitely level, we have adjustment in it
up and down. I don't want to pull on it too hard because we're just tacked but we're going to take
the bolts out so we can get those rubber washers out of there, weld this thing, we'll touch it up
with a little bit of paint just to protect it from rusting in the future. Sylvania also has
tube mount clamp brackets for an easier way to install led light bars or pods. Now that we've
mounted these where they go, we're going to start wiring them into the car. We're lucky because this
already has pre-wired relays and switches for lights that are missing off of this car already,
so all we have to do is go back to the relays and run a power and a ground up to each light
and we should be good to go. Also make sure to verify that the gauge of wiring being used can
safely support the power draw of the proposed lights. All right so when we're wiring stuff
we want to use a relay. What a relay does is it uses a low amperage circuit to control a high
amperage circuit. That way your switch isn't holding the amp load of the light that you're
trying to operate and the way that works is you have four pins we really care about. We're not
going to deal with 87A, that's connected until you energize the relay, but on pins 85 and 86
is a coil and that coil creates a magnetic field when it's energized and it sucks our switch inside
of the relay and it connects it to pin 87. Pin 87 is what's going to run out to our light,
pin 30 is the power coming from the battery through the fuse into the relay. So we can
either ground or power control this magnetic field here and we do that in two different ways.
Either we have pin 86 grounded at all times and when we give power to pin 85 it sucks the switch
in or we can have power constant on pin 85 and we can ground pin 86 and then that will energize
our magnet which will pull in our switch to pin 87 from pin 30. We're just connecting pin 30 to
pin 87 whenever we have power and ground attached to pins 85 and 86. Sylvania does make these
awesome little kits this one's for four lights so you can actually it's got a whole bunch of
pigtails in there with one switch turn on four pod lights or rock lights or whatever you're
trying to do with it or you have single ones they have remote control ones button controlled ones
there's so many options out there and this really really simplifies it. Now we've gone over what a
relay does what we have in this car because it has been to SEMA before and it's had lights and racks
and you know stuff to sleep in it everything's been in this car before water pumps and whatnot
we already have a switch panel here so we have a whole bunch of open circuits here that we can use
that already have switches in our dash so there's no reason for us to go back and rewire the entire
car. These are Deutsch plugs they have a lock that goes in them once we're pinned we just want to
make sure we either have a good connection with connector or just butt connect them and leave
yourself some extra service loop so if you need to take the bumper off and you don't want to take
the light off you can just cut the old butt connector out of there and when you come back
you have enough extra loop that you can pull it out strip it back and butt connector it back together
it throws light to here so that's going pretty broad out there on a flood and now watch the center
that is bright up there those look pretty good well we got the interior lights and the exterior
lights all updated and bright and shiny you can see yourself in the mirror you can find stuff on
the floor people can see your brake lights this light bar is putting out some serious light and
those pods are giving us a great flood to be able to work in if we're winching or doing something
like that i'm super excited to see how these sylvania light bar and pods does out there in
the field in a few short days we've been able to really take this thing update it not to mention we
got a full paint job on it there's no more bashed insides bashed in roof it's really come a long way
that's not to say it doesn't need a lot more love but for now it's at least respectable in a parking
lot when you come upon it wow these lights are super bright and i can see a lot more the motor
trend team are going to be very happy with the lighting upgrades to this forerunner
