KOBLENZ: Germany’s Massive Fortress & The Epic Valley of 40 Castles

Germany is known for its beautiful cities, medieval towns, and remarkable architecture. In this series, I'll take you along to six of these special places. My journey begins in the city of Koblenz, a place where, at the Deutsche Ecke, history quite literally flows together. It's where the rivers Rhine and Moselle meet, and where the charming Old Town and the imposing fortress are among the highlights. But it's also the starting point of one of the most beautiful and unique stretches of Germany, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Rhine Valley. A fairytale landscape filled with steep vineyards, legendary castles, and medieval towns. Welcome to Koblenz. I begin my day at the Baldwin Bridge, the oldest surviving bridge in the city, spanning the Moselle River. The construction of the bridge dates back to 1342, when Archbishop Baldwin of Luxembourg commissioned it. Originally, it had 14 arches, but due to modifications in later centuries, only 11 are visible today. Several of these were blown up at the end of the Second World War, but were soon rebuilt in a historical style. It is a beautiful monument that also offers a stunning view of the city. From the end of the bridge, the city's history is immediately visible. Here, you can still see part of the old city walls and an old watchtower that protected the city for centuries along the banks of the Moselle. These city walls were built between the 11th and 14th centuries, with the current sections dating from the final two centuries of that period. Over time, they were integrated into surrounding buildings during the modernization of the city. I continue my route along the Moselle, where it eventually meets the Rhine. This natural headland is not only a geographical highlight, but also the site of an imposing national monument, the Kaiser Wilhelm Monument. After the king's death in 1888, there was a desire to erect a monument to the man who brought about German unification in 1871. Around 20 years later, his grandson, Emperor Wilhelm II, chose Koblenz as the final location, and a massive 14-meter-high copper equestrian statue was placed on a 23-meter-high pedestal. The statue was accompanied by a winged figure holding a crown, symbolizing victory and the founding of the German Empire. On the pedestal, which can also be climbed, is the inscription, The empire will never be destroyed as long as you are united and loyal. And surrounding it are the coats of arms of all the German states. During the war, the statue was destroyed, but the pedestal remained standing. It was not until 1993 that a replica of the original statue was reinstalled. It is a remarkable monument, especially to walk through and enjoy the view of the confluence of rivers. I continue deeper into the city, because not far from this monument, parts of the old city walls can still be seen, including even a historic city gate. Within these walls lies the former Deutschherrenhaus, which now serves as a museum, as well as the Basilica of St. Castor. This church dates back as early as the year 836, although little remains of that original structure. Its current form dates from the 12th century, when it acquired its characteristic Romanesque appearance, including its four towers. From the flower garden surrounding it, the church can be admired very well, though unfortunately it was closed during my visit. I continue my route through the old town, where I soon come across the distinctive building known as the Old Kaufhaus. Located on Florensmarkt, it was built in the 15th century as a central trading house. On its façade, just below the clock, you can see a face known as the Augenroller. The eyes of this figure move with the swing of the clock's pendulum, and at every full hour, it sticks out its tongue. This refers to the legend of the robber knight Johann Luther of Coberne, who is said to have stuck out his tongue at the crowd while standing on the scaffold. Koblenz's old town has a long and eventful history that dates back to Roman times, but during the Middle Ages, the city further developed into the structure that is still visible today. Due to its strategic location and its railway connections, the city was heavily bombed at the end of the Second World War, and about 85 percent of it was destroyed. The old town you see today is therefore the result of a very careful reconstruction. A conscious decision was made to restore the historic façades and the medieval street layout rather than replace them with modern concrete buildings. Despite the fact that many of the buildings are relatively young, the area still feels authentic, with its narrow alleys and beautiful façades. One of these charming spots is the intersection with four aureole towers on the corners of the houses, as well as the Church of Our Lady in the heart of the old town. This church is one of the most defining landmarks of the skyline, with its onion-shaped domes atop the towers. It was built in the 15th century on the foundations of a late Roman hall from the 5th century, while the nave and the base of the towers still retain Romanesque features from the 12th century. Inside the church, you can see how beautifully the light filters through the many windows, most of which are made of stained glass. A particularly special feature is the Barbara Bell, which survived the war and dates back to 1339, making it one of the oldest in the region. Jesuitenplatz is often considered the most beautiful square in the city and almost radiates a Mediterranean atmosphere. Here you will find not only the town hall, but also the city church, which was formerly the Jesuit church. Through the richly decorated entrance, you step inside, and while the exterior feels quite historic, the interior is very different. After its reconstruction, it was kept simple and restrained, with a modern, light appearance. From the square, I walk through the gate of the town hall to what is probably the city's most famous statue, which has also become its symbol. This small statue, which is also a fountain, honors the Schengel, the nickname of the inhabitants of Koblenz. The term originated as a variation of the name Jean, which was commonly given to local boys during the French occupation around 1800. At irregular intervals, the statue sprays a powerful jet of water several meters across the square. It represents a mischievous street boy, embodying the liveliness and humor of the city's residents. On my way to the banks of the Rhine, I pass through Joseph Gora's plots, where the historian Zola stands. This column, which is part of a fountain, was donated in 1992 by the federal state to mark the city's 2000th anniversary. In 10 different layers, it tells the story of the city through various scenes, ranging from Roman times to the future at the top of the column, which is left open as a symbol. The longer you look at the column, the more you notice, and you begin to understand how the city has been shaped over thousands of years. Along the banks of the Rhine, you'll find one of the most remarkable modes of transport, the cable car to the fortress. This cable car was originally built for the Bundesgartenschau in 2011 and was intended to be dismantled afterward. However, it proved so popular that it was first extended until 2026, and it has since been approved to remain at least until 2037. From the cable car, you get a stunning view over the city and the confluence of the Rhine and the Moselle. The busy river traffic makes the ride even more spectacular. It's the perfect way to visit the fortress from the old town with a combined ticket. After about 900 meters, you arrive at the elevated area on the other side of the river where the great fortress is located. Although from the outside it may look like a massive stone complex, historians consider it to be one of the most impressive fortifications in Europe. There are several reasons for this. Ehrenbreitstein is an absolute masterpiece of 19th century Prussian military architecture and was once a gigantic fortress that ranked among the strongest in the world. The complex is enormous, and you really notice that as you walk around. It almost feels like a maze. It was completely self-sufficient and could accommodate around 1,500 soldiers and 80 cannons during long sieges. The fortress was never taken by an enemy. It was built so robustly by the Prussians that its mere appearance was often enough to deter attackers. Although the fortress mainly dates from the 19th century, the first castle on this rock, rising about 118 meters above the Rhine, was built around the year 1000. Over the centuries, it was continuously expanded, eventually leading to the construction of the current complex as protection against France. Remarkably, while the city suffered heavy damage during the Second World War, the fortress itself remained largely intact. Today, the various buildings house exhibitions on the history of the region, photography, and even wine culture. You can easily spend hours wandering through this vast complex, constantly discovering new and beautiful spots, from underground halls to stunning panoramic views over the city and the rivers. It is truly a place you should visit during your trip to this city. The fortress may not be the most beautiful or the oldest, but when it comes to sheer power and 19th-century engineering, it ranks among the very best in Europe. I leave the fortress and take the cable car back to the city center, enjoying one last time the beautiful view over the rivers and the city. I continue walking along the Rhine in a southern direction, where an imposing structure rises along the riverbank. The Prussian government building was constructed between 1902 and 1905 on the orders of Emperor Wilhelm II in the Neo-Romanesque style. With its robust appearance, towers, and rounded arches, it looks more like a medieval castle designed to convey the strength and permanence of the Prussian Empire. Not far from here stands the Electoral Palace, one of the most important and stately buildings in the city. Unfortunately, only a small part of the garden is accessible, as the entire complex is currently covered in scaffolding and undergoing renovation. It was built at the end of the 18th century by the last Elector of Trier and is a prime example of early neoclassical architecture. During the war, it was almost completely destroyed by firebombing and was later rebuilt externally according to the original plans, while the interior was given a more modern design. I walk a final stretch through the city center and leave this remarkable city via the bridge where I first arrived. Koblenz is the perfect starting point for a journey through the upper Middle Rhine Valley. This is one of the most iconic landscapes in Germany and has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 2002. It stretches for about 65 kilometers between Koblenz and the city of Bingen, and along this route you will find more than 40 castles, fortresses, and palaces. The first one rising above the landscape is Stolzenfels Castle, a romantic fairytale castle built in the 19th century on the ruins of a 13th century fortress. It was transformed into an elegant summer residence, featuring slender towers and beautiful battlements that are characteristic of the neo-gothic style. On the eastern side of the river, the imposing Marxburg soon appears. Unlike many other castles and palaces, it is the only hilltop castle in this region that has never been destroyed. Because of this, it is the only place where you can still experience the original architecture from the 13th to the 15th century, making it a true medieval fortress. Not far from this castle lies one of the most famous viewpoints in the Rhine Valley due to the nearly 180-degree bend the river makes here. From Gdansk you get the best view, and it is also a great place to stop for a drink or something to eat. Within this wide bend of the river lies the town of Bopard, where I take a short walk. Here too, the rich history is visible everywhere in the lively streets and squares. In the center of the town stands the Basilica of Saint Severus, built on the foundations of a Roman military bathhouse from the 4th century. The current church mainly dates from the 12th and 13th centuries and is a so-called gallery basilica. The absolute highlight of this church is the large wooden crucifix hanging above the altar, which dates from around the year 1220. This makes it one of the most important surviving Romanesque sculptures in all of Germany. Many sculptures from this period have been lost over the centuries due to wars, fires, and natural decay. I continue driving through the valley, and everywhere you look you see castles and ruins dominating the landscape, such as Berg Maus and the impressive ruins of Rheinfels. Although I would have liked to visit these ruins, I unfortunately arrived too late to go inside. It is the largest castle and fortress ruin in the region and was once the most powerful stronghold along the entire river. It belonged to one of the most powerful noble families of its time and was used to collect tolls on the Rhine, just like many other castles in the area. In 1797 it was blown up by the French after the fortress was surrendered without a fight, and the ruins you see today are what remains. But it is not only castles and ruins with medieval origins that you find in this valley. One of the best-kept secrets is Oberwesel, known as the town of towers and wine. As soon as you arrive, you immediately notice that this is a very different town with a much stronger medieval atmosphere, mainly because of its defensive walls. With 16 of the original 21 towers still standing, Oberwesel possesses the most complete medieval city fortifications along the middle Rhine. Here, I take a walk along part of the city walls near the Rhine, which you can walk on and which offer beautiful views over the streets, city squares, and the river. At the southern end of the walls stands the Zenterturm, one of the youngest towers, next to the Liebfrauenkirche. Because of its deep red color, this church immediately draws attention and is commonly referred to as the Red Church. Originally, it stood outside the city walls, but after the city's expansion around 1400, it became enclosed within them. Through the town and past the white tower, I continue toward the walking path located outside the walls. Because the path is situated at a higher elevation, it offers stunning views over the old city walls with their many towers, the town itself, and the Rhine flowing behind it. The path eventually leads to St. Martin's Church, located on the opposite side of the town from the church we saw earlier. This church stands at the highest point of the town, and because of its strategic location, the church tower was directly incorporated into the city's defenses. As a result, it does not look like a typical church tower, but more like a military defensive structure with battlements and small corner towers that served as lookout and firing positions. Overlooking the town stands Schoenberg Castle, which today serves as a hotel and restaurant. This castle is particularly unique because it was not inhabited by just one person, but by several branches of the same family. Each branch had its own residential section and defensive tower. In 1689, French troops succeeded in destroying the castle during the Nine Years' War, and after nearly 200 years, it was partially rebuilt around 1885 by a wealthy German-American family. They gave it the fairy-tale-like appearance it has today, and of course, from here you once again have a stunning view over the Rhine and the town of Oberwiesel. Not far from this beautiful town lies perhaps the most unique castle of them all, Falzgrafenstein Castle does not tower above the hills, but instead stands on a small island in the middle of the river. This castle was also never destroyed, and proved capable of withstanding not only wars throughout the centuries, but also the immense force of drifting ice and the flooding of the Rhine. The castle looks somewhat like a giant ship, and that is no coincidence. The upstream side was designed like the bow of a ship, functioning as a massive breakwater against the strong current and the ice. This too was a toll castle. Ships could not avoid this location, and anyone who refused to stop and pay would face the cannons or the chain that could be stretched across the river. By ferry, you can visit this small island, home to one of the most extraordinary castles in the region. By now, evening has already begun, and along the riverbanks I encounter one beautiful place after another, such as the town of Bacharach, where I make a short stop, followed by Burg Rheinstein. This castle was the very first ruin to be rebuilt in the 19th century. In 1823, Prince Frederick of Prussia purchased the ruins and had them reconstructed as a summer residence. In doing so, he started the trend for many other castles in the valley that were later rebuilt or restored. As I approach the end of the valley, I arrive in the town of Bingen am Rhein. The sun has almost completely set, and the final castles of the valley are beautifully illuminated, including the Maus Tower, which also stands in the river. The tower owes its name to a gruesome legend. According to the story, the greedy Archbishop of Mainz was eaten alive here by thousands of mice as punishment for his cruelty toward the poor population during a famine. The tower was built in the 14th century and was used until 1974 as a signal station to guide the busy river traffic through the dangerous rapids in this part of the river. And so, my journey through Koblenz and this beautiful part of the Rhine Valley comes to an end in the town of Bingen, where the final illuminated castle rises above the city. Koblenz and the Rhine Valley are an absolute recommendation. For lovers of history and castles, this is one of the most beautiful places in the world. Everywhere you look, there is something incredible to see, and nowhere else in the world is the concentration of castles and ruins this high. The combination of city life, countless fortresses, and centuries-old legends makes this the perfect trip. Whether you visit for one day or several, this is truly a region you have to experience at least once. After all the beauty along this stretch of the Rhine, in the next video, I will visit the romantic city of Heidelberg, Germany's oldest university town, where the iconic castle ruins and the unique atmosphere of the city make for a perfect continuation of my journey through Germany. 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