Why you need to know this Incredible Independent Japanese watch brand

Hey guys, welcome back. Today we are just north of Ginza, in the sophisticated district of Ningyocho, and I'm really excited because we are about to go and visit the atelier of a brand I really admire. I would say right now they make some of the most elegant watches in the whole world. Today we are visiting Naoya Idenko. Quietly elegant and boldly sophisticated. I can't think of better words to describe this incredible brand. Naoya Idenko was founded in 2018 by Naoya Tobita, a seasoned professional in the Japanese watch scene, with the stated goal of creating watches that marry timeless mid-century aesthetics with modern production quality. I still vividly remember the first time I ever saw one. I was at dinner with a friend, and saw some pictures of the first model online. It was love at first sight. Unfortunately, I was also fresh out of uni, so my limited watch budget meant it was nothing more than a faraway dream. But my interest in the brand has remained strong over all these years, and today I'm finally here in person. Since that first announcement, the Naoya Ida team has expanded to include watchmaker Kosuke Fujita in 2020 and engraver Keisuke Kana in 2022, adding a whole new layer to the brand. Their pieces are objects of love, crafted fully from passion. Every little detail is thought out and perfected meticulously year after year, from the material composition of the dial to control long-term patina, down to the winding feedback of the movement. They have managed to create something really impressive and unique, so let's dive in. These are all of Naoya Ida's incredible watches. Just a reminder, if you enjoy watch reviews and guides like this one, remember to like the video and subscribe to Alberto Maria Bergo for more. So let's start from the beginning. This is the NH Type I, a beautiful time-only watch with elegant Breguet numerals and an asymmetric second sub-dial located at 9 o'clock. It is the piece that started it all back in 2019, and this is the full Type I lineup, with every iteration ever made. You see, Naoya Ida is obsessive about details, they continuously make small improvements to all of their models, and the 2022 NH Type I D is the latest version. It hasn't been updated in almost 4 years, so you know it is close to perfection. Upon seeing the watch in person for the first time, what stands out to me is just how elegant it is. Its curves, proportions, details, it really feels like a high-end vintage rice piece with modern craftsmanship and a touch of retro Japanese 1980s charm. The dial is made from a silver alloy that will slowly patina over the decades. While older versions had some light spotting, the brand experimented with different alloys to ensure new versions will patina very evenly going forward. On it, slim Breguet numerals have been carved and filled with black lacquer. The dial features a recessed sub-dial that has been carved with ultra-high precision machining. The outer minute ring has 60 lacquer-filled dots. Blue leaf ends starkly contrast the silver dial. The tip of the minute hand is bent by hand to match the curvature of the minute scale. This incredible watch also comes in 18k yellow gold with the NH1 D2. On top of the gold case, it features gold hands and 60 tiny gold discs inside the minute ring around the dial. And if that was not enough, this is the NH1 D3, the most luxurious and extravagant NH1. On the side, it has a subtle art deco motif engraved by hand in-house by Keisuke Kana. The case of the NH1 is 37mm wide by 9.8mm thick with 50m of water resistance. It sits on the wrist beautifully thanks to the gentle curved lugs. It sports a screw-down solid case back hiding the manual caliber 3019SS with 48 hours of power reserve, with a most satisfying winding experience. Mr. Tobit emphasized that this was really important for him, and it has been incredibly well received by the community. It has a 20mm lug-to-lug, and it is fitted with a Jean Rousseau strap. On the front, it has a double-treated crystal that is basically invisible. But let's talk numbers. The 1D is for obvious reasons the most affordable of the three, at 2,690,000¥, with a production of 15 pieces per year. The 1D2, in all of its 18k yellow gold glory, costs all the way up to 7,150,000¥ for the 10 pieces produced per year. And the 1D3, with its time-consuming hand engraving, costs 9,900,000¥, with only one piece per year made. Although the NH1 might be the simplest watch in the Naoya Ida lineup, I think it really shows the brand in its true essence. There is just something charming about the cohesive simplicity of its design, almost like understated confidence. It is a watch that knows what it wants to represent, and it is proud of it. I really like it, and it is probably the piece I would buy myself, if it wasn't, for what's coming next. Because this is the NH Type 3, the watch that brought Naoya Ida's encode to international stardom. It takes all the best elements of the Type 1, and adds to them an almost nostalgic mid-century charm, through a beautiful golden moonphase at 6 o'clock, and classy roman numerals. From the moment it was first released in 2021, it became an instant classic. The star of the show is, without a doubt, the uncarved 18k yellow gold bohemian moonphase disc. I consider the moonphase the most poetic complication there is. It doesn't have any real practical use, so it's just art on a watch. The warm and rich 18k yellow gold stands out starkly against the cold silver dial, creating a beautiful juxtaposition, further enhanced by the blued hands. The art deco roman numerals complement the geometry and design of the dial to perfection. Currently, there are two more versions of this watch. The Type 3B1 has 18k rose gold hands, and an incredible 18k rose gold bezel, but as you can see, the biggest difference is probably the other worldly lapis lazuli moonphase disc, where the colors of the stone mimic the deep blue of the star-studded night sky. I am generally not a big fan of mixed metals, but this piece is stunning. There is also the Type 3B3, a fully 18k yellow gold version of the Type 3. This watch is still incredibly classy and elegant, but it is a lot. Excessive, but refined. These beautiful pieces come in a 37mm case like the Type 1, but 1mm thicker, a 10.8mm toe to fit the moonphase complication. Under the screwed-on caseback you will find a manual caliber 3021LU, with the signature now yet a satisfying winding feedback, 50m of water resistance and 45 hours of power reserve. They all come on a 20mm leather strap. But how much? The 3B is the most affordable of the three, with a current price of 3,410,000 Yen for the 10 pieces produced per year. The 3B1 goes up to 4,400,000 Yen for a production of 8 pieces per year. The fanciest one, the 3B3, costs 8,250,000 Yen, and it is limited to 5 pieces per year. If it wasn't clear enough yet, I love the NH Type 3. It is the quintessential Noida watch for me, classic and elegant, but with its own identity. The big Swiss brands make beautiful dress watches, but nothing with this authentic vintage flair. It feels like the kind of watch you would wear if you were living in Paris during La Belle Epoque, sitting among artists and actors. I will definitely try to get a Type 3B1 in the near future. Next is the NH Type 4, a watch that is quite different from all the other Noida Edas. This model has a more utilitarian look. It is reminiscent of military watches, but with a more elevated and sophisticated design. It comes in two versions. First, we have the Type 4A. This piece uses the same silver dial as the watches we have already seen, but with a few notable differences. First, the most obvious one, Arabic numerals. These are hand-carved and filled with the brand's iconic black lacquer. It features sharp steel three-dimensional diamond hands for the hour and minute, with a really thin central blued second hand. Then we have the Type 4A1. This version uses the same silver dial, but with a dark grey DLC coating. The numbers are actually carved, exposing the silver underneath and creating a really high contrast. The watch is rendered even more monochromatic by the silver steel second hand. Black and silver. Just that. They are relatively simple watches, but they are really well executed. The Type 4s are actually a little smaller, with a 904L stainless steel case, measuring only 36mm across, but a bit thicker at 11mm, with a lug-to-lug of 42.9mm and a lug width of 20mm. Behind the screw-down caseback, it is powered by the manual center second caliber 3020CS, with 50m of water resistance and 45 hours of power reserve. The Type 4A costs 3,080,000¥, with a yearly production of 5 pieces per year, while the 4A1 is slightly more popular of 10 per year and a price of 3,190,000¥, a small surcharge for the work required to put the dial, but as you can see, these two pieces are pretty similar in all aspects. Now, would I buy an NH Type 4? Honestly, I'm not really into military feel watches. I love vintage chronographs, but even then, I generally prefer racing chronos from the 50s and 60s, so this model is not for me. What makes Naoya Iida special, to me, is their charming vintage flair, and these are no-nonsense watches. Perfectly designed, incredibly constructed, but ultimately, not for me. If that's your style though, make sure to consider them, as they're stunning. And now, for something completely different, this is the NH Type 5, Naoya Iida's first foray into shape watches, stepping away from their signature round case design to bring us a stunning rectangular dress watch. Released in 2024, the Type 5 is clearly inspired by 1940s Art Deco tanks, with an eye-catching modern monochromatic look and incredible vintage details. What sets the Type 5a apart visually, is its dramatic three-dimensional box-affair crystal, which gives the watch a gorgeous dome effect that echoes vintage crystals. Underneath, the silver dial features a hand-engraved Arabic numeral at 12 o'clock, and triangular bar indices, which are then filled with the brand's black lacquer. The Dauphine hour and minute hands are made of 18k white gold, paired with a blue small second hand in the sub-dial at 6 o'clock. There is also a newer version, the NH Type 5a1. At first glance, it looks very similar, but it brings two very cool vintage touches. First, instead of sapphire, it uses a custom-molded acrylic crystal, giving it that unmistakably warm distortion that vintage watch lovers really like. Secondly, the 12 o'clock index has been changed to a beautifully hand-engraved Breguet numeral, which you know I love. Because of its shape, the Type 5 works quite differently than other Neue EDA models. The 900NL stainless steel case measures 26mm wide by 33mm long, with a lug-to-lug of 43.5mm and a thickness of 9.1mm. It has an incredible wrist presence for its size, honestly almost too much for my 6.8-inch wrist. Fitting inside is the Manuel Caliber 2524SS, an original rectangular movement based on the architecture of the Peugeot 7001 with 38 hours of power reserve. Both models are water-resistant to 30 meters. Both the Type 5a and the Type 5a1 are priced identically at 3,520,000 yen, with a production of around 10 pieces per year each. I really like this watch, both in a vacuum and within the brand's lineup. It is such a bold departure from their first designs, but it still feels 100% Neue EDA. Also, the use of an acrylic crystal on the 5a1 is such a nerdy, passionate detail. I love it. This type of obsession is what matchmaking should be about, so if you want a rectangular watch, but want something much more artisanal and under the radar than a Tank or a Reverso, the NH5 should definitely be on your radar. And finally, this is the NH Type 6a, the pinnacle of Neue EDA's horological achievements. Released in 2025, this is their first true high complication, a perpetual calendar, a massive leap forward in ambition. While the brand has always released beautifully designed watches, this is the first time they've shown that they can, and intend to, push themselves technically as well. And as you can see, the craftsmanship of this piece is still incredible. The sterling silver dial has been completely uncarved by master engraver Keisuke Kano. Every single Roman numeral, everything in the three subdials, every day, day of the week, month, and even the DPR indicator. It is all then painstakingly filled with black lacquer. For legibility, the gold events for the hours and minutes are 18k yellow gold, while all the calendar functions use elegant blue steel hands. Despite the complexity, the 904L steel case of the Type 6a remains remarkably compact at 37mm wide and only 11.5mm thick. To achieve this, Neue EDA partnered with Austrian watchmaking PowerEyes Halbring, and complication especially, DuPont DEPRA. The result is the Hanwhain caliber 3025 PC, featuring 45 hours of power reserve and 50 meters of water resistance. As you can imagine, a hand-engraved perpetual calendar from an independent watchmaker is a big boy watch. The NH Type 6a will set you back 8,250,000 yen, with a planned production of about 10 pieces per year. This is, yet again, a new direction for the brand, and there is a lot to love about it. Technically, it is an impressive achievement for a relatively young independent brand like Neue EDA. The 37mm still has that vintage feel I love, but it is really busy. Personally, I prefer the cleaner designs of the brand's first models, and I'm really excited to see how this new technical angle will evolve in the coming years for Neue EDA. So this is the full Neue EDA lineup. As you just saw, their watches are really special. By the way, a disclaimer. While making this video, Neue EDA released 7 new models. I will cover them as soon as possible, and my overall message on the brand remains the same. They just have something so unique about them. Little details here and there that show that they are truly labor of love. And because of this, they can only be produced in incredibly small quantities. Even now, almost 10 years after the brand's founding, Neue EDA makes only around 100 pieces per year. But how can you actually buy one? Neue EDA is special in this regard as well. You see, their watches have been quite popular, which unfortunately always attracts the attention of resellers. To combat this, they have a unique allocation process to filter them out. First, you will have to submit an online application with your name and desired watch. Then, you wait for the outcome. But this is where it gets interesting. Allocation is prioritized for people that truly love watches and the brand. If you want to maximize your chances, I recommend visiting their atelier in Tokyo by getting in touch with the brand. Here, you will be able to talk watches with their team, proving to them that you are not in it just for a fast play. If you do all of this, you will hopefully be granted your desired watch, and after paying for it, it will get delivered straight to your door once finished. Or you can also pick it up back in Tokyo, whatever you prefer. I have to say that in their simplicity, Neue EDA watches are still works of art. Although on the more expensive side, I would love to get one myself one day. For now, I'm just content to see how the brand continues to grow and evolve in new, exciting ways. Hi, I'm Naoe Hida of Naoe Hida & Co. I'm a designer and owner of this company. I hope you enjoy to see my watches. Thank you.