The Jewels That Made History. The Legendary Women Who Wore Them.

Relics & Retro Gems
10 followers
5 Video Views·Apr 23, 2026
Seven legendary women who changed the world, and their jewels changed history. Brains, beauty,
eccentricity, business acumen, audacity, devotion, work ethic, generosity, charm.
These are just a few of the qualities that make women not only formidable,
but formidably powerful. In the spirit of Fortune's Most Powerful Women of 2025,
today's story is a tribute by House of Gems to women who didn't just build empires or lead
movements. They also wore jewels that captivated the world. From music and business to health and
education, these seven trailblazers have shaped the world in extraordinary ways. Tonight, we're
diving into seven legendary women whose brilliance transformed industries, and whose incredible
jewels left the world breathless. From sparkling diamonds that commanded millions, to hidden
treasures that whispered secrets of power, love, and legacy. From beautiful minds to incredible
jewels. Let's begin. Brooke Astor. Brooke Astor became the First Lady of New York City
through her tireless dedication to its cultural and social welfare. She served as the Chairwoman
of the Vincent Astor Foundation, established by her third husband, Vincent Astor, a member of the
Astor family. In recognition of her remarkable contributions, she received the Presidential
Medal of Freedom in 1998. Mrs Astor's diamond jewellery was the height of mid-century sophistication,
so when her jewels arrived for auction in 2012, the red suit boxes were filled with incredible
prices. Her most famous and highly sought-after piece by collectors was a Bulgari Emerald and
Diamond Necklace. The Bulgari Necklace, set in platinum and 18-carat gold and made in 1959,
was a gift from her husband. The circa-1959 necklace featured a flexible composition of 13
emerald drops weighing approximately 71 carats, enhanced by 14 cabochon emeralds totalling about
41 carats and 14 marquise-cut diamonds weighing roughly 8.5 carats, all set throughout with
numerous round diamonds totalling around 50 carats. Brooke Astor recounted in her 1980 autobiography
that the necklace and matching earrings were commissioned during a trip she and her husband
took to London in autumn 1958. He died the following spring and Brooke did not know the
jewellery had been ordered. Nearly two years later, she received a letter from the House of Bulgari
with the details of the pieces, along with a note penned by her husband requesting that the
jewellery be delivered on Brooke's birthday. She completed the purchase and considered the
to be the last and most memorable gift from her loving husband.
This exuberant and rich necklace became the centre of attention, a major highlight of the auction,
selling for $686,500. She famously wore it on her 90th birthday party at the 7th Regiment Armoury
in New York City in 1992. A collection as refined and powerful as the woman herself,
Este Lourda. Este Lourda needs no introduction. A towering figure in American business history,
she built a global beauty empire that still carries her name decades later.
In 1998, Time magazine recognised her as the only woman on its list of the 20 most influential
business geniuses of the 20th century. Not one of the women, the only woman, full stop.
Like her approach to beauty and skin care, her jewellery told a story,
and among all the remarkable pieces she collected over her lifetime,
one stood above the rest, captivating bidders and history lovers alike.
That piece was the Heart of Windsor necklace, a yellow diamond necklace with a past as extraordinary
as the woman who wore it. The stone's journey began on the finger of the Duchess of Windsor,
Wallis Simpson. Interestingly, it never surfaced at the iconic 1987 Sotheby's auction
of Wallis' collection in Geneva. Instead, the Duchess had quietly sold it in the mid-1970s
to someone she trusted deeply, her close friend Este Lourda. In 1978, Este brought her own vision
to the stone, commissioning Van Cleef & Arpels to transform it into a breathtaking diamond pendant
necklace. She wore it, proudly, a piece of living history resting close to her heart.
After her passing, the necklace was auctioned to support the Breast Cancer Research Foundation.
A cause Este had championed throughout her life. The necklace itself was extraordinary,
a flexible strand set with round diamonds totalling approximately 95 carats,
18 inches in length, suspending a detachable pendant centred by a heart-shaped fancy intense
yellow diamond, weighing 47.14 carats, framed by an additional 8 carats of round diamonds.
It sold for approximately $2.5 million, a fitting tribute to a woman who understood
that true beauty always carries meaning.
MATILDA DODGE-WILSON
Matilda Roush arrived at the Dodge Brothers Company in 1902 as a young secretary,
and by 1907 she had married co-founder John Francis Dodge. By 1920 she was a widow,
and by 1925 she had orchestrated the sale of the Dodge Brothers Company for $146 million,
at that time the single largest cash transaction in the history of American business.
The woman who had once taken dictation was now setting terms that made Wall Street pay attention,
and in 1940 she made history again, becoming the first woman ever to serve as Lieutenant
Governor of a US state. She later co-founded Oakland University, donating 1,400 acres of
her own land, everything she touched, she shaped, now her jewellery. Matilda's collection was as
biography, ranging from a modern Cartier engagement ring featuring a Golconda diamond,
to a carved emerald necklace of Mughal origin, ancient and extraordinary.
But the piece that silenced the room when it finally appeared at auction
was something altogether more precise, a 1933 Cartier ring, platinum, signed, impeccably art
deco, and at its centre a 4.06 carat emerald cut Colombian emerald, flanked by two triangle cut
diamonds weighing approximately 1.80 carats, with single cut diamonds set throughout the mounting.
Here is what made it remarkable, it outsold her engagement ring.
The ring that John Dodge had placed on her finger, featuring a Golconda diamond,
one of the rarest stones in the world, was surpassed at auction by the Cartier emerald
ring she had chosen for herself. The final price, $521,000. A woman who spent her life
outperforming expectations managed to do it even through her jewellery.
Margaret McGrath Rockefeller Margaret McGrath Rockefeller,
often known as Peggy Rockefeller, was a prominent American conservationist,
and the wife of billionaire banker David Rockefeller. Though she maintained a relatively
low public profile, her work fundamentally shaped land preservation in the United States,
particularly through her leadership in founding major environmental trusts.
The jewellery of Margaret Peggy McGrath Rockefeller reflected a refined taste for
high-quality gemstones and vibrant mid-century designs. While many of her jewels eventually
made their way to the auction block, one piece in particular continues to intrigue collectors
and admirers alike. Peggy's personal favourite, a dazzling peridot and diamond suite by Van Cleef
and Arpels. The suite comprises a necklace, bracelet, ring and ear clips. What makes it
so captivating is the bright yellowish-green glow of the peridot stones, combined with the
knowledge that Peggy Rockefeller wore the set frequently, making it one of the most personal
jewels in her collection. The necklace itself is especially remarkable, suspending a detachable
pair and oval-cut peridot pendant brooch, enhanced with circular-cut diamonds. The detachable surmount
and neck chain follow a similar elegant design, all beautifully mounted in 18-carat gold.
When the piece finally appeared at auction at Christie's, collectors responded with enthusiasm.
When the hammer went down, the suite sold for $348,000, surpassing the pre-sale high
estimate by an impressive $228,000. Evelyn Lauder
How can we talk about Estée Lauder without mentioning her remarkable daughter-in-law,
Evelyn H. Lauder? With her spirit, compassion and grace, Evelyn Lauder touched the lives of
millions, yet her greatest legacy may be her tireless commitment to the fight against breast
cancer. In 1992, together with Self magazine, she helped create what would become one of the most
recognisable global symbols of hope, the pink ribbon. That same year, she founded the Breast
Cancer Research Foundation, serving as its chairman and championing groundbreaking research
around the world. And Evelyn's love for the colour pink became part of her identity.
She once famously said,
I have as much pink as you can have. I love to see other women in pink. It's good for
every shade of skin and hair.
And of course, when we speak of pink, we eventually arrive at one of her most dazzling jewels,
a spectacular 6.54-carat oval-cut pink diamond ring, described as internally flawless. The
2.21-carat white half-moon diamonds created a jewel as radiant as the woman who owned it.
Before the auction, the ring was estimated at more than $4 million.
But when the bidding began at Sotheby's in New York City,
collectors quickly realised this was no ordinary jewel.
Going once, going twice, sold for an astonishing $8.6 million.
The winning bidder was legendary diamond dealer Lawrence Graff,
making it the top-grossing item of the auction.
Per carat, the ring achieved an incredible $1.31 million,
placing it among the most valuable pink diamonds ever sold at the time.
Lady Diana, Princess of Wales
Princess of Wales
Lady Diana, a prominent member of the British royal family and a global icon of the 20th century,
was known around the world as the People's Princess.
She was celebrated for her groundbreaking humanitarian work,
particularly for helping destigmatise HIV-slash-AIDS and for campaigning against landmines.
At the peak of her charitable work, Diana served as patron to more than 100 charities,
often choosing to support causes that many others hesitated to address.
Princess Diana's jewellery collection reflected her unique spirit.
But since we are focusing on jewels that were personal to these powerful women,
one piece stands out.
Her extraordinary Swan Lake diamond and pearl suite.
Much like other personal items connected to Diana,
such as the Atala cross necklace that later appeared at auction,
or even her famous warm and wonderful black sheep sweater,
which sold in 2023 for an astonishing $1.1 million.
The Swan Lake jewel eventually made its way to the auction block.
Shouldn't they be handed over to her sons?
On June 3rd, 1997, Diana attended the opening night of the British National Ballet's performance
of Swan Lake at the Royal Albert Hall in London,
wearing this breathtaking diamond and pearl necklace designed by Gerard.
The necklace featured 178 marquise and round, brilliant-cut diamonds,
surrounding seven luminous South Sea pearls, all mounted in platinum.
Altogether, the jewel contained more than 50 carats of diamonds.
It would become one of Diana's final public appearances.
At the time of her tragic death in August 1997,
only the necklace existed.
The matching earrings were still unfinished at Gerard.
Questions around the final ownership of the completed suite meant that,
over time, the jewel eventually made its way to the auction market.
Two decades later, in 2017,
the Swan Lake suite stunned collectors when it sold for around $12 million,
making it one of the most valuable jewels ever associated with Princess Diana.
Anne Eisenhower
A prominent American interior designer and philanthropist based in New York City,
she was also part of one of America's most historic families,
the granddaughter of Dwight D. Eisenhower, the 34th President of the United States,
and Mamie Eisenhower, the nation's former First Lady.
Beyond her refined sense of style, Anne Eisenhower was deeply devoted to philanthropy.
She served for 25 years on the board of the Casita Maria Center for Arts and Education,
while also supporting organizations such as the Breast Cancer Research Foundation,
Maimonides Health, and the American Heart Association.
But when it came to her jewellery, those who saw it often said,
once you've seen them, you'll never forget them.
Among her most spectacular pieces was the iconic Jarretière Ruby and Diamond Bracelet,
an unforgettable jewel originally created by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1937.
The bracelet was set with vivid, cushion-shaped rubies,
surrounded by round, single, rectangular, and baguette-cut diamonds, all mounted in platinum.
Adding to its mystique, the bracelet had an extraordinary history.
It was famously worn by legendary actress Marlene Dietrich in the 1950 film Stage Fright.
Decades later, the jewel returned to the spotlight when it appeared at auction.
In 2023, as part of Anne Collection,
collectors immediately recognized its rarity in cinematic history,
and the remarkable bracelet ultimately sold for $4.5 million.
A dazzling jewel that reflected the elegance,
generosity, and unforgettable presence of Anne Eisenhower.
That is all for tonight.
Let us know which legendary woman owned the best jewel and why.
But before that, don't forget to like and subscribe to our channel for more jewel stories.
