Grand Seiko's 40mm Dive Watch With A UFA Movement - Ushio 300 Diver

Hi everyone, Teddy Baldessar here back again. Joe Kirk, good to see you sir. Great to see you, thank you for having me. It's always a big day when we're together, but today is a reveal of something special, a world premiere, right, of these watches, even so much so that I have not seen these. I actually asked you to cover these watches up. I don't want to see them, I want to be along with the audience on this ride, but what I understand is we have in front of us a new 40 millimeter UFA dive watch from Grand Seiko. Yeah, something like that, maybe. Please do the honor, sir. So yes, let's think back to last year when we unveiled UFA, right, and no one knows this, you know, because in the video we didn't have that, but you said, oh no, smaller movement, that means more possibilities, right? That's where my brain went immediately. Immediately, and so I was like, yes, of course, a smaller movement. Don't mind me, by the way. A smaller movement means a lot of possibilities, and so obviously your next question was, does that mean you can make a smaller dive watch? And obviously I couldn't confirm, but yes, of course I knew that we were working on doing something, and you know, when we came out with UFA, right, it was a big move forward for us in meeting the customer demand, right, and one smaller size, right, 37 millimeters in automatic spring drive. Grand Seiko has never been done before, and that was a very big deal for a lot of people, and it has proven itself, like UFA is one of the hottest things we have right now. Then on top of that, micro adjustable clasp, right, probably the biggest demand that Grand Seiko has ever had. Then on top of that, you know, we introduced this new movement that no one asked for the better accuracy, but we did, so that plus or minus 20 seconds a year, trying to create the best possible product that we can, and I had a great conversation with the movement designer behind the caliber 9RB2 that we introduced last year, and also this new caliber that we'll talk about here shortly. So new caliber, yeah, 9RB1. Okay. Mr. Hiraya, H. Hiraya, is the movement designer behind this, and he basically explained to me something I didn't really ever think of, right, and in Japanese culture, omotenashi is like the highest level of hospitality, right, and it's more associated with like walking into a store or a restaurant, and you don't really think about it, but from his perspective, right, his sense of trying to convey omotenashi is to think of what the customer needs in advance, and so when he was developing UFA caliber, this is probably quite a bit longer before people were really asking for such compact size. That was always a goal and dream, but as I mentioned before, you know, in our previous videos, it's hard to reduce size of spring drive because it's a very complex movement, it has a lot of parts, you know, and there's very meticulous rules in Grand Seiko movement design to ensure accuracy, durability, longevity, you know, all of those things are very important factors for Grand Seiko, so, you know, his sense of trying to convey this omotenashi for the client of bringing something that they may or may not know that they need, and so the 9RB2 was the start of that, you know, many years, of course, of development, and 9RB1 is an extension of that because people love dive watches, right? Sure do. I feel like most people love dive watches because there is a true sense of reliability, not that they're actually diving with them, I mean, how many people do you know that actually dive with their watches? Yeah, a fraction of a percent. So, you know, the reality is people trust dive watches, right, because they're made for extreme environments, and so while many of this new divers watch that we have introduced will not see the ocean, they can, and I think that all of the attributes of this watch together have created something that's really ideal for Grand Seiko collectors in terms of a dive watch, and people maybe who don't even know about Grand Seiko yet, so. So high level here, let's just give people an understanding of what this is, so case size, dimensions, you mentioned this is a new caliber as well that we're introducing here, it's a different at least caliber reference from UFA, can you tell us a little bit more just in terms of like the case sizing dimensions and some of those like high level specs, and then I'll have a variety of questions. I am happy to answer them, so case dimension is 40.8, right, we tried to reduce size as much as possible, so this UFA caliber that we introduced last year was great, but we also wanted to optimize the height of the watch and make sure even though the case construction needs to be quite complex, that it's easy to deconstruct, clean, you know, all of the things that may occur in diving or just getting dirt, debris, whatever, in these harsh environments that people may put the watch through. We want to ensure that serviceability as well. In terms of the thickness, we're at 12.9. Thank you for getting it under 13. Yes, indeed, indeed, there actually is a lot of attention to detail in terms of this Evolution 9 design, right, this will retain the Evolution 9 collection in terms of the overall aesthetic, but we wanted to ensure that we didn't compromise the design of the watch, both from a functional standpoint to be a diver's watch, and also to retain that aesthetic for Evolution 9. So 12.9 thickness and then 48.5 lug to lug, so very wearable for just about any wrist size, and also as you can feel, high intensity titanium for the case and bracelet. And then we have two different dial colors. We have a blue dial that reminds me of that Ushio, you know, type of effect, and then this green has this like gradient effect. Is there any, for differences between these, can you explain that? Yes, of course. So these models, just to clarify too, these are, you know, Spring Drive UFA, as you see on the dial, but we're calling Ushio 300. So the dial pattern is the same as the previous generation of Ushio with the five-day movement, but now with the 300 meter water resistance, basically we have changed from 200 as Japanese industrial standards. Used to be 200 meter water resistance was a requirement for a dive watch, like recreational diving, and so that was how we kind of set our guidelines. Well, now it's 300, so all of our dive watches from here on out should be 300 meters or more. Ushio 300 is the nickname, so the pattern is the same, but they both have a gradation effect, right? One in blue and then one in green. The blue will be exclusive, you know, exclusively sold basically through Grand Seiko Master Shop, Salon, and Boutique, and then the green model will be Salon and Boutique only. The blue is not quite the same as the previous generation of Ushio, right? You have a gradation effect, so we do use a paint or a lacquer to give that gradation effect on a dial, but still you can retain the texture quite well with the blue color, so that one different than the previous generation, and we have not done a green before, so with the green... This is spectacular, by the way. Thank you, thank you. Blue is like my favorite color, and I have so many blue watches, but to take this, like immediately, this is when I picked up first, this green dial is spectacular. Internally between the team, it's like 50-50. It's not. Everyone's preference is different, so it's really hard to gauge which is going to be the, which one's going to come out on top, but ultimately, the green dial is a little bit, has a little bit more of a limitation in the sense that really harder to create that gradation and capture the detail of the texture of the dial with a green color, so we opted to use our optical multi-layer coating, which you may recall from the Tokyo Lion design a few years back. That like red to orange transition dial that we saw when we sat down in Geneva, yes. So that process, especially with the red, it's very dramatic changing in colors, and you'll get a little bit of that with this, but it's really more to retain the dial texture, so it's almost like a green to silver, and as you change the angle, the viewing angle, it may become more green or more silver, somewhere in between, but not as dramatic of a change as the other. I have natural light right behind me, and it's hitting right at the dial center, and you could just see that it almost becomes like a white silver green at the center of the dial. It's like when you have that light hitting it, it's beautiful. Yeah, it's spectacular unlike anything we've done before, and then you'll notice the ceramic insert for the bezel is also green, and for the blue is blue. We actually redesigned the entire bezel to ensure one thickness, but also to optimize usability, so the knurling of the teeth, you know, the 30 essentially portions of the 120 click bezel, you know, so easy to use, right, no matter what setting, and then also you'll notice that the lugs are a little bit closer to the top surface, so the design aesthetic has changed a little bit compared to the previous generation of the Ushio. Let's talk about the bracelet as well, so you have on-the-fly adjustment. Is this a modified version of the on-the-fly adjustment system though? Okay, explain more. Yes, you'll notice it's quite different in its design, so ultimately what we have here is utilizing the same six millimeter micro adjustment that we have on SLDB003, right, that allows for that tool-less adjustment, so you can adjust your comfort level accordingly. We have that feature retained within this class, but we also have an expansion for a wetsuit, so we've added that, and then we have a locking mechanism, and it's really cool because you just slide the Grand Seiko logo up to lock it, hides that little red line, and when that little red line is exposed, that means it's unlocked. That's very cool, very cool. Awesome little feature, new design, and you know, great for overall everyday comfort, no matter how you're wearing it. So we've always talked about a dive watch from Grand Seiko at that 40-ish range would always be this success. Why was now the right time, and what did you learn from going throughout this process with like UFA? Was that really the tipping point where you recognized like that was the platform in making this all possible, and what was the holdup? If I could just be blunt about it, it's, you know, what took so long for you guys to feel comfortable that this was the right, and I can understand why, and now they're holding it, but yeah. So, you know, from a design perspective, yes, movement is a lot to do with why we haven't done 40 millimeter, you know, in a dive watch, right? It's like the smallest we've done is a little over 43. So, and that wasn't even in quartz. So, you know, the Spring Drive 5 Day at a little over 43 was very similar to the quartz model. So, you know, that was the smallest size we could do. Movement had a lot to do with it. So this caliber in particular is great for its size. Also case construction, quality build, and like I said, that serviceability aspect, those are all factors that go into Grand Seiko that many people may think are, you know, afterthoughts in other various situations. But for Grand Seiko, we have such specific rule sets, and we need to ensure that nothing is compromised. So we had the perfect platform. So yes, Spring Drive UFA caliber was the perfect platform. We also, as I mentioned, this is a new caliber. We wanted to optimize it for a dive watch. So what is new with this? I mean, obviously I see a power reserve indicator on the front. That's correct. Yes. So first thing you'll notice is power reserve, right? So you do have the power reserve on the dial side as the case back is closed and which we, you know, wanted to ensure the quality of the case back. You know, if you do sapphire crystal, you know, you could theoretically do it with 300 meter water resistance still, but that is one more possible risk. So we wanted to ensure that this was purely tool watch. And then with that sapphire exhibition case back also maybe jeopardizing the thickness of the case to maybe going beyond 13. Of course. Yeah. So there, there are various factors, but you know, ultimately we decided power reserve on the front and you also notice that there's no date. So that's, that's a nice feature. I mean, many people like no date just in general, but for a dive watch, we really wanted to retain the quality of the indices, make it highly legible, you know, underwater and retain that tool watch aspect. You'll, you'll also notice that we changed the design of the hands and markers compared to the previous Ushio models. So again, trying to create something, one that falls more in line with Evolution 9 design and two is optimizing the legibility. So it fits great. Yeah. I'm having a lot of fun right now. Awesome. This is fantastic. What is, so what else is new with the movement? So when you design 9RB2 for the watch that you're wearing on your wrist, there was obviously considerations for that. What was different trying to apply UFA to a dive watch? So, you know, one, we, again, you're, you're working with a functional bezel, so that adds a lot of height and we wanted to try reduce that as much as possible. So date was one of the factors that was helping us, you know, kind of keep it thin. The other thing too, especially for a dive watch, you know, is we want to make sure that it meets all the standards for a dive watch and shock resistance of course is, is a great factor. And so actually with this movement, we optimize the design of the oscillating, like the rotor. So it's a little bit different than what you would find in the 9RB2. So to help improve the impact resistance. So yeah, it's like little things, you know, they can go a very long way. So a lot of really great attributes to this watch. I think that, you know, one, aesthetically, they're both beautiful. Where you may be leaning more towards the green, I may be leaning more towards the blue. Well, now I'm holding the blue, so I'm, I'm struggling. I'm actually, this is, at least today, they both match your tie, right? You can, you can get away with either one. That's right. That's right. Came prepared. From a design standpoint, you looked at Ushio, but obviously if you look broader within the Seiko umbrella, I mean, dive watch history in Japan is very strong. What were some of the other considerations as you were like looking to like build this platform when it comes to that angle? Well, I think that, you know, I've kind of narrowed down all of the major elements, you know, practicality, usability, obviously legibility and accuracy are of the utmost importance. In terms of the design, right, Evolution 9 design, people often ask me, what does Evolution 9 mean? And it's evolving the nine rules of Grand Seiko design, which were established back in 1967. So, ultimately, we're improving the aesthetic, right? So, totally new aesthetic, a little bit sportier, a nice contrast, I should say, between the brushed and high-polished surfaces and Zaratsu polishing. Again, retaining those flat surfaces, sharp edges, and many faceted angles to create these very complex geometric case shapes. But the aesthetic is more modern, let's say. Then, Evolution legibility. So, again, we changed the hands, the indices to improve overall visibility, not just in this model, but in every Evolution 9 model. And so, you'll notice that the application of the loom is very smooth on the top surface, but the frame surrounding is all perfectly diamond-cut surface, beautifully polished, and just incredibly well made. Now, one other thing to just point out, the hands are massive on this, right? To help improve the legibility, the weight would change if we used the same typical materials. So, these hands and pretty much every other Grand Seiko diver that we've ever introduced use titanium hands. So, that way, we can increase the size and keep the weight down. So, a lot of variation in terms of improving the legibility. And then, from a wearing comfort standpoint, high-intensity titanium, right? That's one of our proprietary alloys that we're using. You know, it's only really found in Grand Seiko and Krador. And so, it's most prevalent in Grand Seiko. And it's a great material because it's ultra-high corrosion resistance. It's got a very lightweight, comfortable feel. It has a great polishability because of this special alloy and also great hardness. So, the wearability is similar to that of steel, where titanium is typically very easy to scratch. This is above stainless steel slightly. So, you have all of those great factors. And then, obviously, we come back with the micro-adjust clasp, now with more features, both the locking mechanism as well as the extension. So, this is our locking extension clasp, micro-adjustable clasp. In terms of what else, Joe? I mean, you were obviously working on this project for a long time at Grand Seiko. When you're talking with the designers, were there other aspects that they were working on that they felt very proud of, that were other considerations that they were bringing this out? Because this is a long time coming for a dive watch from the brand. Yeah, yeah. I think, you know, one of the things I think that's really cool about our design team, especially going back through the history of Grand Seiko divers, is that everyone has always wanted to do the best possible job to make the best practical tool watch. That's the aim for every Grand Seiko that we make. And like I said before, not everyone's taking this diving. But our team wants to ensure that it is made for that sport, right? So, actually, some of the designers have actually taken up diving as a hobby because of the design aspect. They want to make sure that it's meeting all these criteria. And I think that UFA just gave us a broader category to expand in terms of the aesthetic, right? To get this Evolution 9 design in the most compact size possible. So, there's so many great tools and resources that we have to bring this to life. But all of these things take time. And we're always pursuing a higher level of watchmaking. There's a great philosophy in Japan known as Kaizen, right? This endless pursuit of perfection. And I think that that is really the embodiment of Grand Seiko, in one word, is always striving to do better than what you did last. And this is another example of that. Now for availability, price. Could you talk a little bit more about that too? So, ultimately, you know, this is debuting at Watches and Wonders. We're going to launch this in June. So, starting sales in June, which will be great. And price will be just above the UFA. Obviously, with the divers, you know, functionality, the new class will be instead of $11,400 as we have for the current UFA, will be $12,400 for the diver. So, for June, this is when people can actually start to purchase this? Is that when you're looking to actually take orders? Yeah. And always keep in mind, you know, the production capabilities are still not at full, let's say. So, there is some, you know, limitation. But, you know, our goal, again, is like to keep expanding with UFA. And this is the start of that. I hope, you know, we continue to grow our production capabilities. So, for those that are interested, probably express the interest now. And the other reason I'm asking is because we don't want to pressure, but yeah, it's like, it's always like that when we introduce a new product, you know, it takes us time to be able to get it, let's say, scaled appropriately. So, you know, but yes, we'll face some issues. I was partly asking selfishly too, because I know we have an event in June and I wasn't sure if these would potentially have the opportunity to be there. And I'm sure people that do attend, I mean, last year, like 700 people show up and, you know, UFA was a big star of the show. So, of course. Yeah. So, I promise you it will be there, but how many of them is going to be the difficult question? Okay. I can live with that. So, news for all of you guys too that want to attend that. Joe, this is a massive day. I feel very honored that you'd be able to share this with me and right at the launch here. And this is something that was long awaited for Grand Seiko last year. I mean, nobody was really asking for a more accurate spring drive movement. We got it. We got micro-adjustment though, and much that was brought forward there. Now we see the culmination of all these improvements brought forth in a watch that so many people were asking for. 40 millimeter dive watch from Grand Seiko. I think you guys stuck the landing. And you were asking for it too. And that's, I was so excited to show you this. Yeah, I was. Definitely, definitely was. I tried to fight, I tried to fight on the behalf. No, we were listening, of course. So. Pleasure, sir. Thank you so much. Always a pleasure.