CFMoto Ibex 450 Uncle Wangs Titanium Exhaust and ECU Install

Two-Wheeler Technology
5 followers
14 Video Views·Mar 30, 2026
I ordered the titanium exhaust kit and ECU from Uncle Wangs. As is sometimes common with automotive parts, there are no included directions, so I figure it out on my own. However, it wasn't too difficult. The main reason I opted for this kit was to try to fix the snatchy throttle response. It seems to have made a big difference in decel, and a slight difference in accel. My initial reaction was this made a big improvement overall in reducing the snatchy throttle, but I do need some more seat time to know for sure.
AI Generated·May contain errors
Hey everyone, it's Mike with Whisper Yamaha.
Today I'm excited because my order from Uncle Wayne's showed up.
It took three weeks from the day I ordered it until it arrived here at my door.
What I ordered was this titanium exhaust set for the Ibex 450.
The reason I'm excited is because it came with an ECU as well.
This thing has been pre-programmed to work with this exhaust.
I've had issues, I've only got 150 miles on this bike, believe it or not, but almost all
of it is off-road riding.
I took this thing camping about a month ago and I did mostly forest roads, low speed,
and the snatchy throttle is very annoying.
I know there's different debates, there's different things you can do to try to remedy
it.
I tried most of those things, none of them worked.
The thing that I think is probably going to actually fix the problem is a reprogrammed
ECU, but I'm still in my warranty period, 150 miles, I didn't really want to ship off
my ECU to get it reflashed.
I thought, I'm going to buy another ECU and then send it off to get it reflashed instead,
but then I saw this was actually pre-programmed to this and the reviews are kind of mixed
on Uncle Wayne's site on whether or not this actually fixes the snatchy throttle.
I'm going to give it a shot.
If it doesn't work, I'll ship this one off to get it reprogrammed, but I got this cool
titanium exhaust set, so let's get it installed.
As with most things for this Ibex, it came with no directions, actually car parts in
general are kind of that way, so I'm going to be figuring this out as I go.
It looks like I got the header here to take off, I'm going to have to remove the skid
plate, bash plate, deflector plate, whatever you want to call it.
I'm going to have to pull, this is probably going to be the hardest part, the O2 sensors
off and interestingly enough, let me show you this, I didn't hit any big rocks and look
at that bash plate, it's already seen plenty of deflection, so I have a feeling that's
going to need to be swapped out here as soon as possible, especially if I can keep riding
this thing off road, but it looks through here, the only other piece is this little
hang down spot, I got a bolt here and then I'll have to unclamp it and probably remove
my, this should just be a slip on exhaust and then a bolt up here, so I'll pull that
thing off and let's see what happens.
I've given this thing a little bit of time to cool, I actually did just ride it because
I was wanting to get a fresh feel for how that snatchy throttle felt.
Following these O2 sensor wires, it's kind of bizarre, I don't know if all your bikes
are like this, but I got one wire that comes up here, this thing right there, and then
one that gets zip tied to this heater line, coolant line I guess, not a heater line, and
then they criss cross here and then one connector is there and then one is above it, you can't
hardly see that one above it, so I don't know why they're taking such different routes,
but I'm going to label, it looks like this one here on the bottom is for the left side,
so I'm going to put an L on that just in case it matters, so that way whenever I go to reinstall
it I'm not taking a 50-50 chance on doing it wrong.
I cut all the zip ties and I used two different trim removal tools to pull this out, you can
kind of see on this side I took this rounded one on the back and I pushed in on this, and
then the other one I put between the bar and this and I just pulled it right out, it was
real simple to pull out, move my light here, it's just got like, you know, those clips
so I can stick it back on, I painted a little line here, a little L, I don't know if that's
going to stay on there, hopefully it does, then I painted an L on there, so I cut all
the zip ties, that's the first one, the other one's up there a lot further in there, so
I'm going to try my same technique and see if I can get enough slack, yeah I can see
it okay way up in here, I'm going to try to see if I can get enough slack to just do this
so I don't have to take the whole side fender off, okay I got the other one, that was, what
I did was I looked at it so I knew what it looked like and then I just went up with my
finger and I could feel the clip, I pushed in the clip and then I just grabbed the wires
and gave it a tug and it popped right out, getting that back in may be kind of tough
but it is what it is, just for grins I'm going to write an R on this, should be this side,
and the bash plate came off real easy, they were just 13mm bolts, one thing that was interesting
was I have not ever taken this apart, this is the factory one and it looks like they
cross threaded it, so that's great, the other two on the back were 10's but I think the
factory ones were actually 13mm, that's because I have this bash, this engine guard aftermarket,
so I think, and these are 13's also up here, and they all weren't torqued too tight so
I think I should be ready, I need to get a couple bolts there on the back, on this guy
they're both 13's so I've got a ratcheting wrench 13 just because it would be hard to
get a socket on that, and then just a regular 13 on the back, let's pull that one off, this
one up here is actually an Allen 6, and a 13 on the back, and that should be the last
one for that slip on exhaust, the clamp down there at the bottom was a 13, and here comes
the exhaust, or the muffler I should say, it's not a bad idea to just kind of get the
hardware started that you don't want to lose, so that way it'll be there whenever you're
looking for it instead of it just being a pile of bolts sitting around somewhere, okay
now that the wiring is undone, and all the back is undone I can take the headers off,
we got the thing off, this is a 22, nice because I actually have a 22 wrench, it's like the
biggest size wrench that I have, I'm going to do it like this so I can get a little extra
torque on it, and let me see if this works, stand on it here and just pull it, wow that
was not bad at all, you got that much torque on it, nice, I was worried that these were
going to be a pain, I know some of you may wonder the weight savings on this new one,
the old one is significantly heavier, I used an old hanging weight scale that I have in my shop
and it came in, the old one came in at 8 pounds and the new one came in at 3 pounds, I'll take
any weight savings I can get on this bike, to get these springs on I'm going to attempt to use this
pick, basically just slide it through the bottom of the spring, put the pick in, slot, bring it up
and then work it in, there we go, that one's in, let me see if I can get this other one in, it's a little tighter
come on, there we go, got in, so there's one clip here on the bottom and two on the front for each
spring, it's important to use springs on exhaust because exhaust can kind of expand and contract
at different rates based on the heat and so springs kind of just help hold it all together
if you fuse it together you could have cracks and stuff that form over time, there are numbers on
these header pipes that match up with the collector down here at the bottom just to make sure you get
the left and right on right, I'm going to go ahead and peel them off though, there'll still be some
burn from the you know sticky residue that's on there but it'll keep me from having a little
this thing just kind of smoldered melted to the bottom there, there's the finished product, I got
these tightened up pretty good, those O2 sensors are there, the wires, it really wasn't that hard
to run them up, I need to put a zip tie around these just to keep them off the motor and got
the springs put on, goes back, I went ahead and tightened this bolt and I put the exhaust back on
with this last bolt so feels pretty good now, the last step is to install that ECU, I didn't
reinstall the skid plate and that's because after seeing what happened to mine after just driving
down a gravel road, I'm going to buy a better aftermarket skid plate so I could throw it back
on if I'm going to take this out between now and when it comes back but access to the ECU is here
on the left side I guess of the bike, you got to remove this fender and I know it's easier if the
crash bars aren't there but I'm going to see if I can do it with the crash bars on, you got these
three allen heads okay and then there's two phillips screws, here's one right there and here's one
looking up right there, I missed one screw right there, make sure you grab that one too, there we
go, there is a wiring clip up there, just grab it with your fingernail pull it out and it slides
right out real easy, there is the ECU, there's two 10 millimeter bolts that you can take out
and then once you do that you get some free play where you can move this thing around
and now we can access the wiring harness, pop it and then that should come right out, yep there it
now I got to take these two allens out of that ECU, whoa, well hopefully that didn't break it
apparently once you get those bolts out and the wiring harness it comes out pretty easy, I put an
A on this to indicate, I also put an A right there to indicate aftermarket so if I'm swapping between
these I won't forget which one's which, go ahead and wire it back up here so stick that in until it
meets and then it should just clip down, got it back in there, cover back up with this rubber
getting all this line back up is kind of tough, it's a lot easier if you look at it from the front
to the back when you're trying to get that last one lined up because you can actually see
everything, here we go the new ECU is on, I'm going to get this side panel installed and take
it out for a test drive see what I think, well everybody Uncle Wayne has come through, this thing
is completely fixed, the snatchy throttle, the one biggest complaint that I had on this bike so far
after the, well one time I took it out off-road was that snatchy throttle, you don't notice it
a whole lot at high speeds but when you're trying to do low speed and you're standing
that's when you really feel it, I could feel it in my shoulders when I was doing just gravel roads
you're coming down a forest road and it's gravel and you just barely let off on the throttle and
it just throws you forward, it was really fatiguing and stressful on my shoulders and then you give it
a tiny bit of gas and it just takes off, it was both directions and it would just wear me out,
I didn't even ride this thing that far the very first day and I remember thinking I'm exhausted
from riding this just from hanging on, I'm the kind of person that I stand a whole lot probably
more than I should on motorcycles and I feel like standing you notice it even more because it would
just throw you, you're just you know you got that lever effect you're throwing forward and getting
pulled back, sitting down it was a little bit better but I stand on bikes you're supposed to
stand when you're off-road you got a lot more control when you're standing so that was my
biggest complaint, I ordered that exhaust kit I just installed from Uncle Wang and I put the new
ECU in and I took it out and I'll tell you it's a completely different bike now it still has a tiny
bit on pickup so I would say it's probably half as bad as it was so you know if you're at 100%
we're now at 50% as far as how much it pulls you forward but I can live with that because I'm used
to bikes pulling me forward whenever I give it throttle so it's just it's almost like it goes
from zero to five percent and then starts working its way up the old way it was zero to ten percent
and started working this way up so it was jerky or forward but it's fixed it's completely fixed
the d-cell so now I can go from anything to nothing and it's it's just smooth it's almost
like you're on a bicycle and you're coasting or you're on something and you just pulled in the
clutch and it's just coasting or on a two-stroke and you just took your hand off the gas that's how
it feels now it's it it will continue going whenever you let it off so having just the snatch
when you when you give it throttle is acceptable and it's what I'm used to but it was that both
it would amplify because you you go forward pull back with the old snatchy throttle completely
fixed completely different bike I'm so excited about this this was the last thing I'm worried
about I need to do a skid plate now as you saw I also have a kickstand I need to throw on this
thing but uh anyway yeah I would say raging success if you're having a problem with the
snatch throttle and you want to try to come up with a solution I know you can send off your ecu
to get it reprogrammed I don't have personal experience doing that I suspect that would also
fix it but uh you know the issue you run into there is voiding your warranty which is why I
went the route I did I bought a whole different ecu unit so that if I have a warranty claim I can
just swap them back out um and then and then take it in and I haven't modified my my stock ecu at
least that's what I'm hoping for your mileage may vary but I didn't want to take a risk with my stock
unit and then be in a pickle whereas this way I could buy an entirely new ecu and I can bring it
back to factory if I need to all that to say raging success I'm going to post some more videos on this
ibex here coming up so if you want to see those make sure you subscribe and give this video a
thumbs up if you liked it thanks for watching
