The Hidden 15M Jewelry Collection of Jayne Wrightsman.

Relics & Retro Gems
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Jane Reitzman's mystical treasure trove. A woman of mystery, elegance and unparalleled taste,
Jane Reitzman's jewellery collection was the stuff of legend. But what secrets lay within
her private trove of dazzling treasures? Let's unravel the mystery behind one of the most
exquisite jewellery collections ever assembled. For decades, rumours of her extraordinary jewels
swirled through the highest circles of society. Only a select few had ever glimpsed her legendary
trove. But in 2012, the world finally got its first, and last, look. That year, Sotheby's New
York unveiled a rare selection of her jewels, which soared to an astonishing $15.54 million at auction.
Among the most sentimental treasures was a gold and blue guilloche enamel egg form locket from
the 20th century, a cherished Easter gift from former First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis
in 1963. Another standout was a breathtaking J.A.R. ring, its delicate diamond briolette
gracing her finger with effortless elegance. Renowned for her impeccable taste and enigmatic
presence in haute jewellery, Jane curated a legendary collection of extraordinary jewels.
From the deep green glow of emeralds to the fiery brilliance of rubies,
her trove featured masterworks from Cartier, J.A.R. and Verdura. Cloaked in mystery and
subject of endless speculation, her collection captivated the imaginations of connoisseurs and
collectors alike. Intensely private, Jane rarely spoke publicly, a silence that only amplified the
intrigue surrounding her extraordinary treasures. For years, the full extent of her collection
remained unknown, though whispers in elite circles suggested it held only the finest,
most exceptional pieces. But who was the woman behind this elusive collection?
Jane Reitzman was an American philanthropist and a devoted patron of the fine and decorative arts.
Alongside her husband, Charles Reitzman, a wealthy oil executive, she played a pivotal role in
shaping the Metropolitan Museum of Art, funding its renowned period rooms and commissioning
masterful interiors by Janssen. Beyond her lasting impact on the art world, Jane was a
discreet yet discerning collector, amassing a breathtaking trove of extraordinary jewellery.
Jane was, without question, one of the most stylish and refined American women of her era.
Today, let's delve into the mystique of her extraordinary jewel collection.
Multi-Strand Natural Pearl, Emerald and Diamond Necklace
The most striking statement piece in Mrs Reitzman's renowned jewellery collection
was a magnificent multi-strand natural pearl, emerald and diamond necklace. Though its creator
remains unknown, the design reflects the opulence of traditional Indian jewellery.
This extraordinary seven-strand necklace featured 311 natural pearls with delicate
rose and green overtones, interspersed with fluted and round, slightly bluish green emerald beads,
intricate openwork gold rondelles inspired by Indian craftsmanship,
and numerous round and rose-cut diamonds. The piece was further adorned with emerald
tavis and briolettes, culminating in a pear-shaped cabochon emerald drop,
weighing approximately 97 carats. At auction, this breathtaking necklace fetched $518,500.
One of the rare photographs capturing Mrs Reitzman in this regal masterpiece
shows her elegantly draped in a white silk tunic while attending Carolyn Rome's fashion show,
immortalised by the legendary paparazzo Ron Gallella, who chronicled the era's
most prominent socialites. Another exquisite emerald treasure from her collection was an 18
carat gold, emerald, ruby, spinel, cultured pearl and diamond necklace. This multi-coloured
masterpiece was composed of eight strands of alternating ruby, emerald and diamond beads,
interspersed with cultured pearls. It featured a heart-shaped red spinel, weighing approximately
36 carats, framed by a cabochon emerald and 18 cultured pearls. The pendant, further adorned
with an emerald bead and an old mine-cut diamond of approximately 13.75 carats, extended into a
baroque-shaped emerald bead capped with cabochon rubies, terminating in a cultured pearl drop.
Although the original maker remains unknown, the class bore the signature J.A.R.
Paris, along with French assay and workshop marks. While J.A.R. enhanced the piece by adding
diamonds to the clasp and pendant loop, he was not the original creator. Fortunately,
a rare photograph captures Mrs. Reitzman wearing this exquisite jewel, which achieved a hammer
price of $212,500.
Commanding the highest auction estimate of $800,000 to $1,200,000,
a stunning pair of Diamond Revere stood out as one of the most exceptional pieces in the
collection. These elegant jewels, consisting of a necklace, were designed with the diamonds mounted
from the back, ensuring maximum visibility of their brilliance. While not believed to originate
from Princess Marina's collection, they closely resembled a similar pair worn by her in a 1949
portrait by Cecil Beaton. She was seen glittering while wearing it to attend Canaletto Art Exhibition
opening in 1989 wearing an elegant black attire. The first Revere featured 31 old mine and old
European-cut diamonds, with a total weight of approximately 68.30 carats, each encircled by
delicate rose-cut diamonds, though two were missing. The second Revere boasted 32 old mine
and old European-cut diamonds, collectively weighing around 92.50 carats, similarly framed
by rose-cut diamonds, with six missing. Although the two necklaces cannot currently be joined to
form a single longer piece, they are designed to nest beautifully inside each other when worn.
Despite their age and history, they remained a mesmerising sight at auction in New York,
where they ultimately sold for $842,500.
Late 17th Century Royal Emerald Rosary
More than just an extraordinary piece of jewellery, this emerald and diamond rosary
holds deep historical significance. Its origins trace back to the marriage of Frederick Augustus
II, Crown Prince of Saxony, and Princess Maria Anna of Bavaria, as it was believed to have been
a wedding gift to Maria. In its original form, the rosary featured an emerald pendant intricately
carved with the Annunciation and was said to contain a particle of the True Cross.
Designed in accordance with traditional Catholic prayer rituals, the rosary consists of 70 emerald
beads, arranged in decades for the Hail Mary prayers, with each decade preceded by a larger
bead representing the Lord's Prayer. The exquisite craftsmanship includes gold rondelles set with
table-cut diamonds, suspending a pendant adorned with five double cabochon emeralds
and numerous table-cut diamonds, all framed within gold surrounds decorated with black and
white enamel. Apprised part of Jane Wrightsman's esteemed collection, this magnificent rosary
achieved a staggering $842,500 at auction, far surpassing its original estimate.
Bulgari Emerald Gold Necklace
The Bulgari necklaces remain an iconic masterpiece in the jewellery world,
admired regardless of who wears it or in which era. The exquisite craftsmanship of this Emerald
Gold Necklace, which later sold for $210,199, was beautifully highlighted when Jane Wrightsman wore
it to the Carolyn Rome Fashion Show in 1989 at the Plaza Hotel in New York City. She radiated
elegance, debuting the rich bluish-green emerald and diamond necklace, perfectly complementing
her navy blue attire. This remarkable piece was crafted between 1982 and 1983, and made its debut
at the Paris Biennial in 1984. The emerald beads incorporated into the design originally belonged
to an older Indian necklace. The front of the necklace features five emerald beads, spaced by
rondelles, set with numerous square-cut brilliant diamonds, totalling approximately 11.75 carats set
in 18-carat yellow gold with a link chain. Verdura Necklaces
In 1994, Jane Wrightsman attended an event at Lincoln Centre in New York City, elegantly adorned
in one of the highest-selling ruby and diamond necklaces from her collection, which later fetched
$206,500 at auction. This exquisite piece featured six strands of ruby beads, gathered by four
X-shaped motifs, and secured with a clasp designed with articulated tassels, all set with round
diamonds totalling approximately 7 carats. Another remarkable treasure from her collection was a
verdura platinum-topped gold, black seed pearl and diamond necklace. This stunning creation boasted
51 strands of black seed pearls, gracefully gathered at the sides by two X-shaped diamond motifs,
with round diamonds totalling approximately 20 carats. A true testament to Wrightsman's refined
taste, this necklace achieved a hammer price of $128,500 at auction. Though Jane Wrightsman
wasn't a prolific collector of brooches, the few she owned were exquisite, rich in history,
and crafted by renowned jewellery houses. Her taste in earrings, however, was unparalleled,
featuring stunning emeralds, diamonds and custom pieces from her favourite verdura.
Before we dive into more of her remarkable collection, don't forget to show us some
love by liking and subscribing to our channel. A Belle Époque natural pearl and diamond corsage
ornament. One of the most historic brooches in Wrightsman's collection was a platinum natural
pearl and diamond corsage ornament, a true masterpiece of the Belle Époque era, crafted
circa 1910. Inspired by Eastern design motifs, this exceptional jewel featured three Golconda-type
diamonds, the largest weighing 8.67 carats, flanked by two exquisite pear-shaped diamond
drops of 9.59 carats and 8.78 carats respectively. A luminous natural pearl drop completed the design,
while old European, old mine and rose-cut diamonds, totalling approximately 19.50 carats,
accentuated its intricate beauty. Adding to its remarkable provenance, this antique diamond bow
originally belonged to Grand Duchess Eleanor Vladimirovna of Russia's Romanov dynasty,
a woman of regal elegance and sophistication. So coveted was this piece during the Sotheby's
auction that it sparked intense competition between seven bidders before selling for a
staggering $2.04 million, well above its estimated price of between $800,000 and $1.2 million.
Another headline-making piece from her collection was the natural grey pearl and diamond brooch,
which sold for an astonishing $1,874,500, far surpassing its estimated value of $600,000.
This exceptional jewel was lauded for its centrepiece, a rare button-shaped grey pearl
of unparalleled quality. The SSEF laboratory in Switzerland, renowned for its expertise,
declared the pearl exceptional. Encircling the pearl was a meticulously arranged frame of eight
old European and old mine-cut diamonds, totalling 7.45 carats, interspersed with eight marquee-shaped
diamonds, weighing 3.60 carats. The composition was further elevated by 16 small round diamonds,
adding another 3.20 carats of brilliance.
Among the most coveted pieces in Jane Reitzman's extraordinary jewellery collection
was a striking pair of ruby and diamond cobweb earclips, crafted in 18-carat gold in 1992.
Designed with Verdura's signature aesthetic, which had 24 cushion-cut and oval-shaped rubies,
weighing a total of 47.89 carats, elegantly accented by delicate round diamonds,
totalling 3.04 carats. Their radiant scarlet hue and cascading white diamond effect made
them a showstopper at auction. Originally estimated at $100,000, these magnificent
ruby earclips shattered expectations, ultimately selling for $266,500.
Another striking highlight of the sale was a pair of platinum, sapphire and diamond earclips,
which fetched $34,375. Crafted in a Bombay form, these rich blue beauties were centred by six
oval-shaped sapphires, surrounded by a dazzling array of numerous round sapphires,
weighing 9.45 carats and numerous round diamonds, totalling 4.53 carats.
These elegant earclips carried a touch of history, as Reitzman was photographed wearing them at the
and her husband purchased Goya's portrait of the first Duke of Wellington for $392,000.
Diamond Bow Brooch
Among the most historically significant pieces in Jane Reitzman's collection
was a rare mid-19th century diamond bow brooch, once owned by Grand Duchess Elena
Vladimirovna of Russia. Crafted around 1850, this opulent jewel, originally belonging to Russian
royalty, was set with over 100 carats of diamonds. The double-ribbon bow design featured a central
oval-shaped diamond of approximately 3.50 carats, accented by numerous pear-shaped and old mine-cut
diamonds totalling 38 carats, and further enhanced by smaller old mine and rose-cut diamonds,
weighing approximately 64.25 carats. The piece was frequently worn by Princess Marina,
appearing in multiple portraits and photographs. At Sotheby's 2012 auction,
this magnificent royal heirloom achieved a remarkable $842,500.
Another extraordinary piece in Reitzman's collection was her unique Peacock Feather
Brooch, crafted around 1860, reflecting her lifelong admiration for the splendour and pride
of peacocks. This striking brooch originated from the collection of Helena Rubinstein,
the legendary beauty mogul and fierce rival of Elizabeth Arden. Designed in silver-topped gold,
the brooch's intricately inlaid diamond feathers, weighing approximately 17.5 carats, beautifully
framed a radiant sapphire and 15 lush emeralds, forming the iconic eye motif of a peacock feather.
This exquisite fusion of gemstones and artistry
captivated collectors at auction, ultimately selling for $146,500.
Emerald Earrings Cartier and Verdura
Let us bask in the art deco perfection of these exquisite emerald and diamond earrings by Cartier,
crafted in 1934. These earrings are crowned by two exceptional diamonds,
one emerald-cut diamond weighing 4.78 carats and one cut-cornered rectangular step-cut diamond
weighing 4.77 carats. The diamond surmounts elegantly suspend an articulated chevron motif,
meticulously set with baguette and marquise-shaped diamonds totalling 11.25 carats.
Completing this geometric brilliance, the earrings feature two magnificent
Colombian emerald drops, collectively weighing an astonishing 50.30 carats,
a true testament to serious gemstone power. Reitzman was photographed wearing
these breathtaking earrings at a children's dinner at Chelsea Piers in New York.
Another emerald beauty that ignited a bidding war at auction
was the stunning pair of Emerald Button Earrings by Verdura.
These ear clips soared past expectations, ultimately selling for $446,500.
At their heart lie two lush cabochon emeralds, together weighing 64 carats,
framed by gold and diamond arches adorned with numerous round diamonds totalling 4.62 carats,
all set in 18-carat gold. A perfect example of Reitzman's refined taste,
these earrings encapsulate the simplicity, elegance and masterful craftsmanship
she so admired in fine jewellery.
To conclude this remarkable collection, we turn to an extraordinary Cartier Emerald Brooch.
A platinum, carved ruby and diamond brooch by Cartier London is an exquisite piece set with
seven intricately carved rubies and foliate motifs, accented by ten round ruby beads and
adorned with numerous old mine and single-cut diamonds, weighing approximately 2.25 carats.
Dating to circa 1935, the brooch was later enhanced with a round emerald bead
and an emerald drop pendant. Estimated between $75,000 and $100,000, this rare jewel far
exceeded expectations, achieving a staggering hammer price of $674,500 at auction.
Although Reitzman's jewellery collection was celebrated for its exceptional rarity and
refined elegance, she was an intensely private person, rarely spotted wearing these stunning
brooches. With limited public appearances and even fewer photographs, her treasures
remained shrouded in secrecy, only gaining widespread attention when they were auctioned
in 2012. We'd love to hear your thoughts. Which of Jane Reitzman's legendary jewels
would you love to own? Let us know in the comments below. Don't forget to like and
subscribe to our channel for more stories about the hidden jewellery collections of history.
See you next time!
