Ink Wash - How to Paint with Ink

Classical Kids Arts
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Did you know there's more to applying ink than just using an ink pen to apply it to the surface?
In fact, we can use ink in its pure form right from the bottle, thinned with water, to use
ink more like watercolor. This process is called ink wash, and in this lesson we're going to go
through the process of creating an ink wash that I eventually used for an underpainting for colored
pencil applications. Here's a look at an ink wash that I created of two cherries for the course
Subjects with Pen and Ink. You can see how you can create a full range of value by layering
light applications of ink first, followed by progressively darker applications of ink. Now,
of course, you can use the process of ink wash in conjunction of adding lines with pen to create
an interesting image. This is simply a process of thinning the ink to create different values.
Now, for this demonstration, I'll be working on Arches 140 pound hot press watercolor paper.
I'll also be using Liquitex carbon black acrylic based ink. The blacker the ink that you use,
the better. And I'll also be using a Grumbacher golden edge watercolor brush that gives me nice
stability with my applications. Now, an ink wash image may start like any other image that you may
create, like a traditional drawing. In this case, I'm starting with a graphite drawing using just
HB graphite. I'm concentrating only on the contour lines, which is just another name for outlines.
I'm not going to add any shading with the pencil since all of our shading and value range will be
developed by adding the ink wash. My contour line drawing starts very light with light pressure,
but as I get more confident with the locations of the features of the subject, I progressively add
a little bit more pressure on the pencil, making more defined lines. If you wish, you can also
define areas of shadow or contrast that you see before lightly erasing the pencil sketch using a
Now we're ready for ink wash applications. We'll start here on a paper palette, just putting a drop
of ink. And you can see my palette is dripping down towards me because I'm working on a tilted
drafting surface. So I'll put a couple of erasers underneath my paper palette here to keep the ink
a little bit more stable. Then all we need to do is add a little bit of water to the ink, thinning
it out. I'm using a lot of water here in the early stages since I'm going to start with light
applications. Now I'll start on the first blueberry, adding our light application of ink. And
then progressively we can add darker applications by simply using less water. Now it might be helpful
to have a test strip of paper before you go to your final surface. Sometimes you need to know
exactly what value you're creating before you go to the final surface. So having a test strip of
paper is pretty handy. Now what you'll notice is when I apply the ink, it's very dark initially,
but it slowly dries to a lighter value. This means that you'll progressively need to go back over the
top of your applications, gradually making the values darker. This is an advantage, of course,
because you don't want to go too dark too quickly with any image that you create.
So it gives you some freedom to gradually build up the range of value that you need.
Now value is the darkness or lightness of color. It's one of the seven elements of art,
and in my opinion it's the most important element of art. We want to create a full range of value
in every piece of art we create, no matter what the medium is. This means that we need to have
darkest darks, the lightest lights, and all the different values of gray in between in order to
create a realistic image. When we create an ink wash image, we should think in terms of watercolor.
And just like with watercolor, we start with light applications and progressively
add darker applications or more intense applications over the top. Now with ink wash,
it's important to allow the ink to dry between each layer. This ink will dry very quickly in a
matter of minutes, so you don't have to wait very long. By applying wet applications over the top of
dry ones, we have more control over the medium. But of course, in the time where the ink is still
wet on the surface, you can add additional water and move it around and control it, just like you
Here you can see how much the ink wash is similar to watercolor painting. You can see that I have
control over moving the medium around while it's still wet. And just like with watercolor painting,
it's important to tape down your surface. While we use less water with ink wash, you might still
see some buckling of the paper, even when working on a watercolor paper that's water absorbent.
Taping your surface down will help alleviate that to a certain degree. And while ink wash will dry
very quickly compared to traditional watercolor, you can still use a hairdryer to speed up the
drying time in between layers if you prefer. You'll notice that I'm bouncing around in this
image, allowing some of my applications to dry before revisiting them, making some of the shadows
darker. Here you can see I applied a very strong application, but I'm going back with a little bit
of water to move that application around, creating a lighter value and also changing the shape.
I typically prefer to use round brushes to apply ink wash. However, you can use any shape of brush
that you prefer. It is important, however, to use a brush that's compatible with watercolor,
since the behavior of this medium is so similar to watercolor. Now I'm using the same size of brush
for this entire ink wash image, a number six round brush by Grumbacher. But you can use smaller
brushes if you prefer, or larger ones. The smaller brushes, of course, will allow you to get more
precise details, while the larger brushes will cover more of the surface area. At this point,
I'm going back and broadening the range of value even further. I'm concentrating now on the darkest
values that I see within the image. But even still, when I add these darker values, you'll see that
they progressively fade and get lighter. So I have to keep going over these areas in order to create
the range of value that's necessary to make this image look complete. Here again, I'm using a bit
of water to thin what I have on the surface and move it around. You have to do this fairly quickly
because the ink dries so quickly. I'll continue to work on creating that cast shadow, not only
creating the illusion of form, but also the illusion of the light source within the scene.
Perhaps you figured this one out already, but ink wash is very permanent. After all, it is ink.
So once it is dry, it is in its place forever. Unlike watercolor, we can't go back with alcohol
or water and lift the ink. That's why it's important to work slowly and cautiously as you
gradually build that range of value. Here I'm going over with a light glaze of the ink wash.
You can see that I can just barely adjust the values that are there, making them slightly darker.
I like to reserve this part of the process to the very end. So I concentrate on higher contrast areas
initially and then broaden the range of value, making the values dark where they need to be.
And then lastly, go over these applications with light washes, making some of the middle values a
little stronger. After the ink has dried completely, we can use a kneaded eraser to erase all of the
visible graphite lines that may remain, leaving just the ink on the surface. And here's the
finished ink wash image, which can stand on its own as a finished piece of art. However, for this
piece, I decided to go back over the top of the ink wash, using it as an underpainting to apply
colored pencils. Now, this is part of the course Colored Pencils Plus, where we cover combining
colored pencils with a variety of different media, including ink, as you can see here. The ink wash
works as an underpainting, developing the values while adding the colored pencil adds the color.
And here's a look at the final image, ink wash and colored pencil applications combined.
So there you have it, a quick look at creating an ink wash image. I hope you enjoyed it. I hope you
were able to pick up a couple of things here and there. Now, in this video, I shared a couple of
clips from some of the courses that we offer over at the virtualinstructor.com. I'll leave
links in the description below if you want to check out those specific courses. But all of our
courses, all of our live classes, absolutely everything we offer is included in the membership
program. So as a member, you have access to everything. There's nothing more to buy. Our
membership program includes courses on drawing and painting, covering pretty much every medium
and subject matter you can imagine. We do weekly live classes for members, which are all recorded
and stored. You can go watch any of the live classes that we've ever created. There's also
weekly critiques that are part of the members' minute, where I critique viewer submitted artwork.
There's also a year-long curriculum for visual arts teachers that includes everything you need
to teach. Now, all of that is included in the membership program, and everyone starts out with
a week-long trial for free. And then beyond that, there's a 30-day money-back guarantee, and the
program is dirt cheap. So if you want to learn more about our program, I'll leave a link in the
description below for that as well. If you like this video, make sure you give it a like. If you
have something to say, please let me know in the comments below. And as always, I wish you all the
best in your artistic success.
