At the end of the New Kingdom, Egypt faced one of the greatest crises in its history. In this episode of Antiquities Explorer, I travel to Medinet Habu, the mortuary complex of Ramesses III, to explore how Egypt responded when foreign invasion, internal strain, and economic pressure threatened to unravel the state itself. From there, we move to Dra Abu el-Naga, where elite tombs reveal how high officials responded to the same crisis in quieter ways.
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At the end of the Bronze Age, entire civilizations collapsed. Cities burned,
trade networks fell apart, kingdoms that had defined the eastern Mediterranean for centuries
descended into chaos. Egypt did not, but it came closer than its monuments like to admit.
In the early 12th century BCE, Egypt faced a convergence of threats. Invading armies,
population movement, economic strain, and a system that was coming apart at the seams.
Later, Egypt would carve scenes of victory onto walls. Order is restored, but these stones
preserve what a state once remembered, downplaying how fragile that time really was. To understand
how close Egypt came to breaking, we have to look at what it built to show its might,
My name is David Miano, a historian of the ancient world, and right now I'm taking a group
of intrepid explorers along the west bank of the Nile, in the ancient city of Waset,
today's Luxor, to look at what Egypt built when its world was under real strain.
We're going to Medinet Habu, the mortuary temple of Ramses III, built in the 20th dynasty,
shortly after an invasion of the Sea Peoples, a time when Egypt could no longer assume that
power spoke for itself. Strength needed to be asserted, publicly and repeatedly. After that,
we're going to draw Abu el-Naga, an elite cemetery from the opening centuries of the New Kingdom,
a time when order did not need to be defended so vigorously, because power was assumed and
continuity was expected. Seen together, these places let us measure what changed, and how close
Egypt came to losing the world it had built. The entrance to Medinet Habu is not a traditional
Egyptian pylon. Instead, Ramses III adopted a near-eastern migdol, a fortress-style gatehouse,
common in Syria and the Levant. Why? Ramses III may have encountered migdol fortifications
directly during military campaigns in the Levant. Migdol gates offered stronger defensive control
than standard Egyptian temple entrances. That might be a consideration in a time of heightened
insecurity. Foreign military personnel familiar with this kind of fortification system may have
been among Ramses III's workforce, influencing architectural design. So here we are at the
temple of Ramses III in Medinet Habu, something that's called the Habu Temple. Medinet Habu,
the city of Habu, that's the modern name. But originally this was a village called Jannet,
but it was considered a sacred site dedicated to Amun, and for that reason several temples were
built here. But this is the big one, the one that's the most important of course, that of
Ramses III. Not only was it a temple, it was used as a fortress. So we kind of have this interesting
migdol, it's called, an ancient fort tower attached to this temple. And yes,
the temple rituals were performed here, but this place was used as a place of refuge sometimes. So
for example, there was a worker strike at Deir el-Medina. You know, we were there the other day.
The workers came here for a refuge while the authorities were deliberating over what to do
with them. And then a little bit later in the 25th and 26th dynasties, oh actually even in the 20th
dynasty, people came here for refuge when the high priest of Amun was fighting the viceroy of
Kush. And then again in the 25th and 26th dynasties, people came here for refuge to get away
from the fighting. So it was kind of this fort besides being a temple. Inside the first court,
Ramses III appears in Osiride form. The imagery reflects the central function of a mortuary temple,
to maintain the king's posthumous existence through continual ritual activity. Attached
to this court is a royal palace equipped with a window of appearances. From this elevated position,
the king could appear before assembled officials and distribute rewards. In moments of danger,
people fled here for protection. And standing inside these walls, it's easy to imagine families
huddled together, lifting their eyes to these reliefs, to the king defeating chaos, and feeling
at least for a moment that the world was still being held together. What you see behind me is
the oldest temple here. This is before the one for Ramses III was built. This is the temple of
Hatshepsut and Thutmose III. So that's all that was here originally, just this small temple.
However, even that may have been built on the grounds of an older temple, which they have not
found as far as I know. But this is considered a sacred place. It was believed to be the place
where Amun first appeared in the city. And so for that reason, temples continue to be built here.
But then Ramses III, when he built the big temple, he just incorporated the older, smaller temple
into it. Along the exterior walls of Medinet Habu are some of Egypt's most famous narrative reliefs.
This is probably the most famous wall in the temple for the very fact that it has depictions
of the the sea peoples. Everyone today is interested in the Bronze Age collapse and all
that. And the movements of the peoples of the sea have fascinated many people and capture their
imagination. Now Ramses III isn't the only one who talked about the peoples of the sea.
We also know that Maremta fought against the peoples of the sea, as they were called. But
there are a few original observations on Ramses's account. He has more written about it in the
inside. But this is the pictorial, you might say. And this temple was put up approximately in 1174
BCE. But he has here many years telescoped into one. Even in the written account, it makes it
seem like everything was happening at the same time. He's talking about the collapse of societies
and how the sea peoples and others were ravaging all the lands around the Mediterranean. But that
had happened over several decades before he had his encounter. Now you can see right above me,
you can see Ramses III over here with his bow. And then right here you see a battle scene. This
is the famous battle between him and the sea peoples who were invading Egypt at the time.
And apparently they were trying to settle in the land. And they came up the Nile and there was a
big battle on the river. And Ramses was able to defeat them through an ingenious method. As their
ships were coming up the river, he had men on the sides, on the shore, throwing grappling hooks
onto the ships of the invaders and pulling them towards shore. And when they got them close enough,
his archers let loose and they showered them with arrows. And this is the way they were able to
defeat the sea peoples. Ironically, he captured quite a few of them and then those captured
sea peoples ended up settling in Egypt anyway. But at least they were under Egyptian control.
Another thing that we get from these pictorial illustrations here is depictions of the various
sea peoples. One of the things that Ramses tells us that we don't get from other people is that he
mentions that they formed an alliance. It was a bunch of different groups of people from around
the Aegean who allied themselves together as a single force in order to be stronger, of course.
And the scribes here, even in the written story of the account, they talk about the various tribes
and they name the various sea peoples, some of whom we can identify. And we also have images
of these people which helps us to place the faces to the names and so forth. Well anyway,
the ones that you see here with the feathered headdresses, there actually was more than one
tribe that wore these feathered headdresses, but the most famous ones were the Peleshet, as they
were called here. And they are identifiable with the Philistines. Have you ever heard of the
Philistines? They are mentioned in the Bible as the arch enemies of ancient Israel. They settled
in Gaza and set up the country of Philistia. Well, when did this happen? It happened after they
failed to take land in Egypt. So sometime after 1174 is when they decided to go elsewhere and
they managed to successfully invade Canaan and set up a shop in what is now Gaza.
The inscriptions name several groups, including the Peleshet, Jekar, Shekelesh, Denen, and Weshesh,
presented not as a single people but as a confederation. These scenes depict not only
warriors but families, carts, and possessions, indicating large-scale population movement
rather than a limited military raid. By this point, other major eastern Mediterranean states,
including the Hittite Empire and Mycenaean palace centers, had already collapsed or were in the
process of collapse. The naval battle scenes emphasize coordination and control. Egyptian
ships are crowded with archers and marines while enemy vessels are shown tangled, overturned, and
overwhelmed. The reliefs present Egypt as possessing intact command structures at a time when many
surrounding systems had failed. Nevertheless, I don't feel the confidence of an empire at its
peak on these walls. I feel the resolve of a state determined not to fall apart. These scenes are
propagandistic but they remain one of the most important primary sources for understanding the
Passing through the second pylon marks a transition from public display to increasingly
restricted ritual space. Here, scenes of military victory are paired with scenes of offering.
Enemies are presented to the gods as proof that chaos has been subdued. This pairing reflects a
core principle of Egyptian kingship. The king maintains cosmic order by translating military
success into religious obligation. Here, you're surrounded by images of victory. Enemies subdued,
chaos defeated, order restored, and they repeat the same message again and again. That repetition
feels like reassurance. The state needed to project strength not just outward but inward to its own
people. The thickness of the walls, the scale of the reliefs, the insistence of the imagery, all of
it feels like a response to pressure. This is Egypt saying, we are still here. The gods still
stand with us. Order still holds. The hypostyle hall originally had a roof and light would have
entered primarily through higher clear story windows, forcing the eye forward and inward
toward the temple's axis. Offerings were presented here and the king's mortuary cult was sustained
through repeated priestly ceremonies. Side chapels dedicated to associated cults show that the temple
was a multifunctional ritual complex. Oh, hands. Oh, you're right. Yes. You know what that is?
When they kill the enemy, they cut off their hands and they make a big pile and give it to the king.
They don't mind being gruesome here. Yeah, it shows your superiority over your enemies,
you know. They like to make it seem like it wasn't even close, right? We like a battle that's like,
you know, you're the underdog and you come back and you somehow pull it out.
They don't want to be considered an underdog at all. There's like the other side had absolutely
no chance whatsoever and we completely stomped on them. You know what I mean? It wasn't even a fight,
you know. And look at what we did to them, you know. Access narrows further as you enter the
sanctuary complex. These spaces were restricted in antiquity, reserved for priestly specialists.
Scenes within this zone emphasize permanence and stability. Depictions of Jehuti Thoth recording
the king's name reflect the belief that writing itself preserves the king's existence. Architectural
features such as false doors functioned as thresholds to the next life, allowing the king's
spirit to receive offerings. Look how deeply these are carved. But boy, they really dug these hieroglyphs
in his day real deep, right? In earlier times, you know, you go in a little bit, but in his time,
boy, you just carve them, right? Maybe it was because they were already practicing erasing
other people's hieroglyphs and going over it. So they're like, no one's going to erase these.
But now we go back in time. Draa Abu el-Naga occupies the northern edge of the Theban necropolis,
positioned at the mouth of a wadi, leading towards Deir el-Bahari and directly opposite
Karnak on the east bank. The site initially gained prominence during the Second Intermediate Period,
when Thebes became the power base of the 17th dynasty, and it continued to serve as the primary
burial ground for elite officials, even after royal burials shifted to the Valley of the Kings.
That means it was a burial ground for roughly 2,500 years. From the end of the 11th dynasty,
around 2000 BCE, through the Coptic period. This longevity makes Draa Abu el-Naga one of the most
continuously used cemeteries in Egyptian history. Draa Abu el-Naga has many types of burials.
It contains royal pyramid tombs of 17th dynasty rulers, monumental rock-cut tomb chapels of 18th
dynasty and Ramzide officials, simpler shaft tombs of lower status individuals, and later reuse
across multiple periods. This diversity of burial types allows scholars to reconstruct
funerary practices across social strata and across time. But it can be a little confusing because
rather than replacing earlier burials, later generations repeatedly return to the same ground,
reusing and reinterpreting it. We're here at the tomb of Harry. And if you look down here,
this is where, of course, the body would have been. This is the tomb chapel. This is the chapel
where the offerings were put. But the body, of course, is down here. And they found all kinds
of artifacts down here, including scarabs and many other things. But we're going to go inside.
What makes this tomb chapel so interesting is that it comes from a time that we don't have
many preserved tomb chapels. This is from the very beginning of the 18th dynasty.
Harry was a contemporary of Amos I, the founder of the new kingdom. He probably died in the reign
of the next king, Amenhotep I. But he is said inside to have been the overseer of the double
granary of the king's wife and the royal mother, Ahotep. So we're going to go in and see a little
bit of this tomb. So come on. The Spanish mission had to piece together all of these pieces and put
them back together the way they were. Architecturally, the tomb is simple, a narrow corridor
leading directly into a broad inner chamber with a central pillar. There is no transverse hall,
and the decoration is confined to the corridor walls. This simplicity reflects an early new
kingdom phase before later tomb plans became standardized and more elaborate. The surviving
reliefs show offering scenes and family members, including Harry's son, Amos, presenting offerings.
Oh wow, look how deep that goes. And the coffin down there? Yes, it's down here. Yeah,
so way down here. You can look down this shaft when you come up. The coffin was way down in there.
Oh, so this is how the archaeologists get down there. There's a ladder going down,
and that is going way down there. How many meters would you say that was?
Wow. Oh, you can see all of the cases that the archaeologists have of artifacts cataloged and
recorded, and their tools are over here.
Immediately adjacent is the tomb of Jehuti, who served as overseer of the treasury
around 1470 BCE. His position placed him at the center of Egypt's imperial administration
at the height of New Kingdom expansion. Okay, so this is the tomb of Jehuti. He lived about 50
years after Harry during the reign of Hatshepsut, and he's said to have held three different
positions in his life, overseer of the treasury, overseer of the works, whatever that is,
and overseer of the cattle of Amun. But what's the most interesting thing about this tomb is
in the back, he's got in hieroglyphs, cursive hieroglyphs, some chapters from the Book of the
Dead, and he wanted to impress people with his own writing, so he has that in the tomb. So we're
going to look at that. Look at this. This is a stela over here. Coffin would have been down below.
This is the tomb chapel. Oh my, look at this. Another stela here. This one follows a more
developed inverted T-shaped plan with a broad courtyard and a long axis extending deep into
the hillside. The decoration combines raised and sunk reliefs, and the tomb's program emphasizes
writing and record keeping. Chapters from the Book of the Dead appear in cursive hieroglyphs
painted over lime plaster, but I realized later it was down in the burial chamber,
which we could not access. See some reliefs here on the walls. This is an impressive tomb.
Look at that. And here we go. Wow. Offerings listed over here. This is the tomb down here.
Way down there. That's where the archaeologists climbed down.
This is a woman doing an animal sacrifice ritual where they say specific words,
and it kind of lulls the animal to sleep, and then they put the ears around its eyes.
Oh, and oh, it's a different somebody else's tomb.
Oh, I see. Oh, so that's interesting. So maybe that one was done afterward, and then they just,
yeah, there's one tomb on top of another one. Hey everybody, take a look at this. There's a
depiction of a bull being slaughtered, and there's the head. Oh, actually, this is the body,
and the head cut off here. Yes, with the knife. One of the things I love about these types of
tombs is like, you know, if you want to study Hatshepsut, yes, you can go to her temple,
you can go to all of her inscriptions, and there's a ton of that stuff that you can do,
but you can also go to the people that worked for her. There were others that lived during the reign
of Hatshepsut, and you can find more about her time by looking at the tombs of the nobles and
others that were active at the time. So this is somebody who was contemporary with her,
and we can find out more about her reign by looking at the people that served her.
The discovery of funerary gardens and mud brick offering chapels near this tomb
shows how tombs here functioned as active ritual spaces even after the funeral.
Here we entered the tomb of Roy, built during the reign of Horemheb. Roy was a scribe.
This tomb has some excellent paintings here on the south wall. You can see on the bottom,
this is dedicated to Roy and his wife Nebtawi. Here we have the funeral itself, so the people
here on the bottom register are engaging in the actual earthly funeral dedicated to Roy and his
wife. Then on the second register, we have another couple that's not them, but they're an
important couple of an official and his wife that are doing obeisance and honor to Roy and Nebtawi.
And then we get into the heavens. Here's the couple again, the main couple, and they're being
brought here to the judgment of the dead. You can see a part of the scale here. It's not fully
preserved, but you can see two sides. But notice what you got here, two hearts and two feathers.
Normally you see one heart and one feather. Why are there two? This is open to
interpretation, but the usual interpretation is it's the couple, so one is Roy's heart
and one is Nebtawi's heart. Then you can see here they're being brought before Osiris.
You can see Osiris seated here on the throne. His face is missing, but he's got the telltale
signs of his mummified lower body and his accoutrements. And here we have the professional
mourners that are at the funeral. Here you have Anubis with the mummified body. Of course,
he's only appearing in spirit. And then you have, look at this, what appears to be a pyramid.
We've seen a pyramid tomb like this one, but this one did not look like that. So I have to
wonder why it's being depicted here. But you have the eyes of Horus on either side of it.
His tomb reflects the post-Amarna restoration, emphasizing traditional gods, moral order,
and correct ritual practice. We also entered the tomb of Amenemope, sometimes called Amenemopet.
It belongs to the early 20th dynasty, during the reign of Ramses III, whose temple I just showed
you, a period when Egypt was under strain. Amenemope served as third prophet of Amun,
placing him high within the Waset religious administration. At a time when the state was
beginning to falter, Amenemope presents himself as a guardian of orthodoxy. The tomb doubles down
on tradition, visually, theologically, and ideologically. The decor echoes earlier New
Kingdom conventions, using archaism as reassurance. It's amazing how many non-Old Kingdom granite
sarcophagi I've seen on this trip. These were turned into catacombs later, and I think they
connected them with tunnels. Draa Abu al-Naga is a quieter place than Medinet Habu, not only because
the people here were less important than a king, but because it comes from a different state of
mind. Most of the tombs here were constructed during periods when Egypt's political system
was expanding or stable, and their architecture assumes continuity rather than insecurity.
The emphasis is on family, office, ritual duty, and long-term remembrance. There's no sense of
urgency. Draa Abu al-Naga doesn't explain itself, it doesn't argue, it simply exists. The Sea
People didn't defeat Egypt, but they arrived at a moment when the system was already strained,
and what Egypt built in response tells us how close they came, perhaps, to being broken. At least
the fear was real. The walls of the fortified temple are very thick. In the final episode of
this series, we move north along the Nile to Abydos to explore the Temple of Seti I and descend
into the Osirion, places built to reach backward in time, into origins, into myth, and into the
deepest ideas Egypt had about life and death. Stay tuned.