Glashutte Original PanoMaticCalendar 1 92 09 02 05 62 Glashutte Watch Review

Hi, this is Tim of The 1916 Company. Welcome and thanks for logging on. If you love this watch, email me, Tim Ossow at the1916company.com for purchase pricing and availability questions concerning this watch. Today, a 2022 model launch from Glashütte Original. This is the Panamatic calendar, the ancient brand's first ever annual calendar. And since 1845, Glashütte Original is the oldest large scale continuously operating German watch brand. So they're Germany's version of Vacheron, so to speak. Taking a quick look at this watch, it's anything but bashful. It's not a small time piece in pink gold, 42 millimeters in diameter, but thin at 12.7 millimeters thick, broad at 49.2 from lug tip to lug tip with a 21 millimeter spacing in between the lugs. We'll zoom out a little bit, throw this on my wrist, which is 16 centimeters in circumference. It wears well, but I will say the watch probably wouldn't wear on a wrist any smaller than mine. So zoom out to get a bit more perspective. 16 centimeters circumference is fine. If your wrist is smaller, you're going to want to get a smaller GO. The watch, however, will fit underneath the dress cuff. Looking at the strap and the buckle, you can see the buckle is a large and medium scale alligator leather cut that is substantially bolstered or stuffed to add to its volume. It's a nubuck-like sanded texture, so it has a velvety sheen to it and it feels the same. You could see a folded edge right here with a monotone stitch and on the bottom, a more conventional calfskin leather, brand new factory strap, no crimping, no gouging. Taking a look at the buckle itself, it's a twin trigger double fold that is quite substantial in the hands. You have to press both triggers to pop it open. You can see Brogieli makes this part for Glashutte Oregano. They're the supplier of that clasp. You can see the company logo with polish, satin, and media blast. The chassis of the buckle is also curved to match the underside of your wrist. Taking a look at the case itself, we do have step lugs, though not as dramatically as on Olanga. You can also see that the step itself is inclined rather than vertical. The lugs run up the side of the bezel substantially, which is a watch designer trick deployed many times by many brands to give a fuller, more voluminous lug form without adding any thickness. So, instead of having a full lug and putting the bezel on top or cropping the lug with the bezel, forcing the lug to end right about there, you run the bezel between the lug and then draw the lug up alongside the bezel. So, you can have a thinner watch and a nice full arcing lug. There's a diminishing bevel that actually thins out towards the end of the lug. We have satin finish all the way across. We have a vertical lip and then a concave lip to the polished bezel and a geo-branded crown with polish and media blast, a trigger adjuster for the moon phase, and then the dial itself actually has a little bit of luminescence, which you're going to see now, and a sort of a silver opaline primary dial with a concentric pattern or azurage for the hours, minutes, and seconds. Now, there is a hacking function, so you can stop the watch and set it to the second against a reference time. And then there is a double quick set. Notice the indication of the month right here with a month and a date. We have an annual calendar, a watch calendar system that only needs to be corrected once annually during the jump from February to March. And so, we have a quick set for the month just like that. It's actually quite fun to play with. And we have a flush disc double digit date that also features a quick set mechanism. Rolling it all over, we have a fascinating movement. Now, this is the caliber 92. So, what you're looking at is caliber 92-09 automatic winding with a 100-hour power reserve, a 4-hertz beat rate, hacking seconds, double quick set, annual calendar, 53 joules, anti-magnetic silicon hairspring, and then it features a six-position adjustment that is one more than a standard chronometer. And as you can see, a duplex swan's neck fine adjustment mechanism, a fully hand-engraved balance bridge. And for the most part, we'll stop the balance here. You could see that it's a free-sprung balance. The adjustments are only made using screw adjustments. So, we don't really have a mobile stud index here. It's fixed by these screws and springs. It can't move due to concussion. And the timing of the balance also can't be moved due to concussion due to the timing screws that are moved apart or together in pairs to change the timing. So, we effectively have a free-sprung watch with a full balance bridge to make it a little bit tougher than a standard dress watch automatic. You could see the solarization of this reduction wheel, the winding system, gorgeous stripes across the bridges, three-quarter style. The general look of the barrel bridge and the train bridge is that of a three-quarter bridge to reference 19th century and early 20th century East German pocket watches. This is all 50 meters water resistant, though it doesn't say it's actually considerably more than the dress watch standard of 30. Taking a look, you could see that we've got bevels, primarily mechanically applied, but handsomely so. Fired blued screws, but we also have polished screws. And the engraving of the balance bridge truly is hand engraving. You can also see engine turning below it with Inca block shock protection because, after all, a member of the Swatch Group. Lots to love here. Long power reserve, a cool calendar, a unique display of the calendar, a size that's large but not outlandishly large, and even a little bit of loom. Plus, first is a flag that flies forever. And this was the first annual calendar from Germany's oldest watch manufacturer. So reach out to Timoso at the1916company.com for purchase and pricing details.