10 Most Iconic Royal Jewels of Queen Mary & British Royals | Tiara, Parures & Brooches

Antique Royal
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10 Most Iconic Royal Jewels of Queen Mary & British Royals | Tiara, Parures & Brooches
Discover the most iconic royal jewels of Queen Mary of Teck and the British royal family. From the dazzling Girls of Great Britain and Ireland Tiara to the legendary Granny’s Chips Brooch, we explore the history, transformations, and secrets of these breathtaking pieces.
Learn how jewels like the Delhi Durbar Tiara, Lover’s Knot Tiara, Fringe Tiara, Cambridge Sapphire Parure, and Greville Necklace passed through generations of queens and princesses. Perfect for fans of royalty, history, and luxury jewelry.
Many of the famous ornaments of the British crown were collected by Queen Mary of Teck.
She bought them from the descendants of the Russian monarchy, created them to order from
famous jewellery houses and also received sparkling tiaras as a gift.
The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland tiara is one of the most iconic royal jewels in
British history and its story begins with a wedding. This magnificent tiara was created
by the legendary jewellery house Garrard as a wedding gift for Princess Mary of Teck,
who would later become Queen Mary. It was presented to her by the Girls of Great Britain
and Ireland, a nationwide group of women who contributed small donations as a symbol of
admiration, unity and respect for the future Queen. What made this tiara truly special
was its clever and versatile design. The frame could be detached and worn as a necklace,
allowing the piece to transform depending on the occasion.
Originally, the tiara was decorated with large, elegant pearls, giving it a soft and classic
appearance. However, Queen Mary was known for her bold taste and strong personality.
Over time, she requested a redesign. The pearls were removed and replaced with dazzling diamonds,
creating the brilliant and striking look we recognise today. The pearls did not disappear
from royal history. Instead, they were reused in another famous jewel, the Lover's Knot Tiara,
which would later become equally legendary. The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland tiara
quickly became a favourite within the royal collection. It was passed down through generations
and eventually became one of the most beloved pieces of Queen Elizabeth II.
She wore it frequently throughout her reign, often choosing it for formal portraits,
state banquets and important diplomatic events. Today, the tiara is more than just a beautiful
piece of jewellery. It represents tradition, continuity and the quiet power of history,
a crown not only of diamonds, but of legacy. The Delhi Durbar Tiara is one of the largest
and most impressive tiaras ever created for the British royal family. A jewel rich in history,
symbolism and mystery. Despite its grandeur, it was never worn in public by Queen Elizabeth II,
yet it briefly appeared on Camilla long before she became Queen. The tiara was crafted by
Garrard in 1911 for the Delhi Durbar, a spectacular ceremonial gathering held in
India to mark the coronation of King George V and Queen Mary as Emperor and Empress of India.
Because the crown jewels were not permitted to leave Britain, it was decided that entirely new
regalia had to be made for the event. A new crown was created for the King, while Queen Mary
commissioned a special closed-head tiara, a lighter alternative to a crown. Importantly,
she paid for it herself, which meant the jewel belonged to her personally, not to the crown.
Originally, the tiara was topped with large, pear-shaped emeralds from the Cambridge
Collection. These emeralds were later removed in 1922 and reused in the famous Vladimir Tiara.
The remaining structure, set in platinum and gold, features sweeping S-shaped diamond scrolls
intertwined with glittering diamond garlands. Queen Mary sometimes elevated the tiara even
further by adding the legendary Cullinan 3 and 4 diamonds, affectionately known as
Granny's Chips. These stones, famously worn together as a brooch, were among the most
precious diamonds in her collection. After Queen Mary's death, the Delhi Durbar Tiara was passed
to Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother, who wore it during the Royal Tour of South Africa in 1947.
It later became part of Queen Elizabeth II's collection, where it remained unworn for decades.
In 2005, the Queen lent the tiara to Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall, following her marriage
to Prince Charles. Camilla wore it only once, at a state banquet for the Norwegian royal family.
That single appearance caused a sensation and was widely seen as a powerful sign of royal approval.
Since then, the Delhi Durbar Tiara has not been seen again, a magnificent jewel waiting silently
in history. The Baucheron Loop. Tiara may no longer exist in its original form, but its story lives on
through one of the most famous royal jewels in history. The tiara was created in 1901, at the end
of an extraordinary eight-month world tour undertaken by the future King George V and
Queen Mary. The journey took the royal couple across the British Empire and beyond, marking
their growing status on the global stage. During their visit to South Africa, Queen Mary received
an exceptional gift, 675 diamonds, presented to her as a symbol of loyalty and admiration.
These stones were not only valuable, but deeply symbolic, each one representing the far-reaching
connections of the empire. Upon returning to Britain, Queen Mary commissioned the renowned
Parisian jewellery house Baucheron to transform these diamonds into a tiara. The result was the
elegant and distinctive Baucheron Loop Tiara, named for its graceful looping design. It was a
striking piece, modern for its time, and a reflection of Mary's strong taste and love of
grand jewellery. However, Queen Mary was known not just as a collector, but as a creative curator
of her jewels. A decade later, in 1911, she made a bold decision. The Baucheron Loop Tiara was
dismantled so that its diamonds could be reused to create an entirely new and even more magnificent
piece, the legendary Delhi Durbar Tiara. In this way, the Baucheron Loop Tiara became a foundation
rather than a final masterpiece. Though it disappeared physically, its diamonds continue
to sparkle in a jewel that would play a central role in royal history. Sometimes even royal jewels
are not meant to last forever, but to be reborn. The Teck Circlet is one of the most intriguing and
versatile jewels in the British royal collection. A piece that can be worn both as a diamond necklace
and as a tiara, either on its own or paired with the Teck Tiara. Yet, despite being officially
considered a matching set, its true place among royal jewels remains something of a mystery.
The Teck Circlet traditionally accompanies the Teck Tiara, although the two pieces do not share
an identical design. In fact, their patterns differ noticeably and their harmony feels almost accidental
rather than intentional. This raises a fascinating question. Why were they ever considered a set at
all? The diamond circlet was inherited by Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother, from her mother-in-law,
the Duchess of Teck. Elegant and refined, the piece reflects an earlier era of royal jewellery,
one that valued adaptability as much as beauty. Later, the Teck Circlet appeared once again,
this time worn by Princess Margaret, who chose to style it as a necklace. Whether she inherited
the jewel from her mother or simply wore it unknown remains unknown. What we do know
is that when Princess Margaret's jewels were auctioned at Christie's in 2006, following her
death, the Teck Circlet was notably absent. Its absence strongly suggests that the jewel did not
belong to Margaret personally. Instead, it most likely returned to the Queen as part of the Queen
Mother's collection, quietly continuing its journey through royal hands. Over the years,
the Teck Circlet has been worn by several generations of royal women, including the Duchess
of Teck, Marchioness Margaret of Cambridge, the Queen Mother, and Princess Margaret. Each woman
gave the piece a slightly different identity, proving that its true value lies not only in
diamonds, but in its remarkable ability to adapt and endure. The Lover's Knot Tiara is one of the
recognisable and emotionally charged jewels in the British royal collection,
a piece where history, sentiment, and symbolism are tightly intertwined. In 1913, Queen Mary of
Teck commissioned the jewellery house Garrard to create a new tiara inspired by a much older design
known as Lover's Knots, a style that had been especially popular in the 19th and early 20th
centuries. These delicate knot motifs, often associated with love and loyalty, appeared in
many royal tiaras across Europe. Queen Mary's design was based on the Cambridge Lover's Knot
Tiara, created in 1818 and owned by her maternal grandmother, Princess Augusta of Hesse Castle,
Duchess of Cambridge. This is why the tiara is called Cambridge, not because of its modern wearer,
but because of its original royal lineage. The tiara was completed in 1914 and remained
Queen Mary's personal jewel until her death in 1953, when it passed to her eldest granddaughter,
Queen Elizabeth II. In 1981, the Queen gifted the tiara to Princess Diana as a wedding present.
Diana wore it frequently and famously called it her favourite tiara,
despite admitting that its considerable weight often gave her headaches.
After her divorce, the tiara was returned to the Queen. Although it might logically have passed
to Camilla, the associations with Diana were simply too strong, and perhaps the style was
better suited to another generation. Structurally, the tiara is quite heavy. It features 19 diamond
arches, each set with a large pearl drop topped by 19 diamond lover's knots shaped like spiked
hearts. Interestingly, Queen Mary originally intended to place pearls at the very top of the
tiara, but later chose to replace them with large diamonds, giving the piece a sharper,
more dramatic silhouette than the original Cambridge version. In 2015, the Lover's Knot
Tiara found a new chapter with Catherine, Princess of Wales, who has worn it many times at
diplomatic receptions and formal events. Today, it is considered one of her signature tiaras,
a jewel reborn once again, carrying over a century of royal history.
Among the royal jewels of the British monarchy, there is one tiara that stands apart for its
quiet drama and refined mystery, the Fringe Tiara of Queen Mary of Teck. This is not merely
an ornament, but a jewel shaped by history, cultural influence, and remarkable transformation.
The tiara was created in 1919 for Queen Mary, the wife of King George V, and one of the greatest
royal jewel collectors of all time. It was crafted by Garrard, the Crown's official jeweler,
whose name is inseparable from Britain's most iconic treasures. The design was inspired by
Russian fashion, particularly the traditional kokoshnik headdresses that became known in Britain
after the Russian Revolution, when emigres brought elements of Slavic elegance to Western Europe.
Queen Mary embraced this aesthetic, reimagining it through the lens of fine British jewellery.
The Fringe Tiara takes the form of a flexible platinum band set with diamonds, from which rise
47 vertical diamond spikes of varying heights. Together, they create a shimmering fringe,
a name that perfectly describes its appearance. Each spike is topped with a pear-shaped or
drop-cut diamond, producing the illusion of cascading light or radiant sunbeams.
The total diamond weight is estimated at around 500 carats.
One of the tiara's most extraordinary qualities is its versatility. It can be dismantled into two
separate diamond festoons, worn on the shoulders of a gown. Other elements may be transformed
into a necklace or bracelets, a brilliant example of multifunctional design at its finest.
After Queen Mary's death in 1953, the tiara passed to her granddaughter,
Queen Elizabeth II, who chose it for the state opening of Parliament that same year.
Rather than wearing a heavy crown, the young monarch made the Fringe Tiara her first great
jewel of reign. Elizabeth II wore it on many formal occasions, and later Princess Anne also
appeared in it, proving that the tiara transcends age and era with effortless grace. Rarely seen
since the 1980s, the Fringe Tiara has long fuelled rumours and speculation, yet it remains exactly
where it belongs. A quiet masterpiece, carrying the legacy of three generations of royal women,
and shimmering with timeless elegance. The Cambridge Sapphire Parure, a legacy of royal
elegance. The Cambridge Sapphire Parure is one of the most exquisite and historically rich jewel
sets associated with Queen Mary of Teck, a collection that reflects generations of inheritance,
transformation, and royal taste. The origins of this magnificent parure date back to the second
half of the 19th century. Created by unknown master jewelers, it originally belonged to
Princess Augusta, Duchess of Cambridge. She later passed the jewels to her daughter,
also named Augusta, who became Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg-Strelitz.
Queen Mary inherited the parure from this Augusta, her aunt and godmother, continuing a powerful
female line of ownership. At the time it came into Mary's possession, the parure consisted of a tiara,
a necklace, and a corsage ornament, all centered around deep blue sapphires framed by diamonds.
Queen Mary, however, was never content to simply preserve jewels as they were.
Known for her deep love of gemstones and her remarkable eye for design,
she often redesigned pieces herself or closely directed their transformation. Under her guidance,
the necklace was dismantled and recreated as earrings, a brooch, and a corsage jewel.
The tiara was also modified so it could be worn not only on the head, but as a necklace,
adding versatility to the set. To complete the ensemble, Queen Mary later introduced a matching
sapphire bracelet, expanding the parure even further. In 1934, Queen Mary presented the
Cambridge Sapphire Parure to her goddaughter, Princess Marina of Greece and Denmark, upon her
marriage to Queen Mary's son, Prince George, Duke of Kent. Marina wore the sapphires with great
elegance, making them a recognizable part of her royal image. After Princess Marina's death in 1968,
the parure passed to her son, Prince Edward, Duke of Kent. His wife Catherine, Duchess of Kent,
was later seen wearing pieces from the collection. Over time, and for financial reasons, some
elements of the parure were sold, meaning the original set no longer exists in its entirety.
Today, the Cambridge Sapphire Parure stands as a reminder that royal jewels are not static
treasures. They evolve, adapt, and sometimes disappear. But their stories continue to shine,
just like the sapphires at their heart.
The Pearl Choker of Empress Maria Feodorovna. Among the great royal jewels of Europe,
few pieces carry the history and elegance of the pearl choker once owned by Empress Maria
Feodorovna. Born Princess Dagmar of Denmark, she became the wife of Alexander III of Russia,
and amassed one of the most dazzling jewelry collections in the world. Her treasures were
admired and envied by courts across Europe, including the British monarchy. Even after the
upheaval of the 1917 Russian Revolution, the widowed empress managed to preserve much of
her collection. Despite limited resources and the uncertainty of exile, she refused to sell her
precious jewels. Instead, she safeguarded them as symbols of family and imperial legacy.
Among these treasures was the remarkable Pearl Choker set with diamonds and a central sapphire,
a piece of elegance that seemed to radiate the refinement of the Romanov court. When Maria
Feodorovna's daughters inherited her jewels, the collection passed to Grand Duchesses Xenia and
Olga. Yet the next generation did not always share the same devotion. Some items, including this
choker, were sold or dispersed. It was Queen Mary of Teck, wife of King George V, who acquired the
choker. A true lover of jewelry, Mary adored gemstones and wore her collection with both style
and confidence. She eventually passed the choker to her granddaughter, Queen Elizabeth II, who
favored it primarily in her youth, sometimes even wearing it as a bracelet, a testament to the
piece's versatility. The choker did not remain with Elizabeth indefinitely. She later gifted it to her
daughter, Princess Anne, who wears it today, continuing a lineage of ownership that stretches
from the Romanovs to the modern British royal family. This simple yet regal Pearl Choker is
more than a necklace. It is a thread connecting generations of women, each of whom cherished,
adapted and carried forward the elegance and history of those who came before. From the
courts of Imperial Russia to Buckingham Palace, the Pearl Choker of Empress Maria Feodorovna
remains a sparkling reminder of royal heritage, timeless beauty and the stories woven into every
gem. The Greville Festoon Necklace, a gift of friendship and elegance. Among the most striking
jewels in the British royal collection is the Greville Festoon Necklace, a grand five-strand
diamond necklace originally belonging to Margaret Greville, a close friend of Queen Mary of Teck.
Childless and devoted to the crown, Mrs. Greville bequeathed her entire jewelry collection to the
British monarchy, leaving behind treasures that would be worn by generations of queens.
The necklace itself is a masterpiece, weighing between 250 and 300 carats,
composed of five strands of large, dazzling diamonds. Its design is uniquely versatile.
The five strands can be separated into two separate necklaces, one of two strands,
the other of three, allowing for a variety of styles depending on the occasion.
The original two-strand necklace was crafted by Cartier in 1929, using diamonds from Mrs.
Greville's own collection, which at the time were valued at £535, a considerable sum for the era.
In 1938, she commissioned Cartier to expand and modify the piece. Four additional diamond
plaques were added, the back chain was redesigned, and a complementary three-strand necklace was
created. Worn together, these pieces form the spectacular five-strand Greville Necklace,
but each could also be worn separately, giving the owner unparalleled flexibility.
After Mrs. Greville's death in 1942, the necklace passed to Queen Elizabeth,
the Queen Mother. She often wore it in its full five-strand glory at state banquets,
including a famous event in 1960 for French President Charles de Gaulle.
In later years, however, the Queen Mother preferred the shorter three-strand version,
highlighting its timeless elegance without overwhelming her ensemble.
Upon the Queen Mother's passing in 2002, the necklace became part of Queen Elizabeth II's
collection. She later lent it to Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall, who famously wore it during the
Commonwealth Heads of Government meeting in Campola in 2007. Today, the Greville Necklace,
alongside pieces like the Honeycomb Tiara, continues to shine, a testament to friendship,
legacy, and the enduring allure of exquisite diamonds. Versatile, historic, and brilliantly
sparkling, the Greville Festoon Necklace is more than a jewel. It is a story of generosity,
elegance, and royal tradition.
The Little Stars of Africa Brooch, Granny's Chips
Among the vast collection of Queen Elizabeth II, one piece stands out for both its rarity
and its legend. The brooch known as Granny's Chips, or officially the Cullinan III and IV
brooch, sometimes called the Little Stars of Africa. This jewel owes its fame to two extraordinary
diamonds, both originating from the Cullinan diamond, the largest rough diamond ever discovered.
Weighing an astonishing 3,106.75 carats, 621.35 grams, the Cullinan diamond was so enormous
that it could not be cut as a single stone. When Joseph Asher, the master diamond cutter of his
time, struck it with a hammer, legend has it he fainted from the sheer tension of the moment.
Yet his calculations were perfect. The stone yielded nine major diamonds of exceptional clarity,
including the two at the heart of this brooch. The top of the brooch is set with the square-cut
Cullinan IV, weighing 63.60 carats, while the bottom features the pear-shaped Cullinan III,
an impressive 94.4 carats. Together they form a spectacular contrast of shape,
weight and brilliance, shimmering in icy blue-white perfection. Before becoming a brooch,
these diamonds were part of a crown made for Queen Mary by Garrard and Company for the
coronation of King George V in 1911. After Queen Mary's death in 1953, the stones passed to her
granddaughter, Queen Elizabeth II. Their affectionate nickname, Granny's Chips, comes from this
connection, a playful reference to the fact that the diamonds were fragments, or chips, of the
legendary Cullinan diamond. Today, the brooch is considered one of the most valuable pieces of
not only for its remarkable diamonds, but for the rich history it carries. It is a symbol of legacy,
of skilful craftsmanship, and of the intimate stories that weave together generations of
royal women. From a legendary rough diamond to a coronation crown, and finally to a brooch worn by
one of the longest-reigning monarchs in history, Granny's Chips continues to shine, capturing both
the awe of the diamond's size and the elegance of centuries of royal tradition.
