Weekend TV Worth Watching! A full episode of Today's Wild West!

Up next on today's Wild West, Montana's Hell's Aurora and Horse Drive, a great ride for a good cause. Call me that, smile. We'll take you to the California Kettle Ranch of one of Hollywood's biggest stars. And I woke up one day and I thought, wow, we're covering California with asphalt. And the California Rangeland Trust, working to save the ranches of the Golden State. Plus, we'll follow Custer's Trail to Little Bighorn. Today's Wild West, up next. The Wild West. It's still out there. We'll show you how to find it. This is today's Wild West. It's Memorial Day weekend in Garter, Montana. Gateway to Yellowstone. But there's one spectacular sight here you won't see in the famous park. The Hell's Aurora and Horse Drive. Every year on this holiday weekend, outfitter Warren Johnson and a few of his friends drive hundreds of his horses right through the middle of town and up a winding mountain road to the summer headquarters of Hell's Aurora Outfitters, named after a Yellowstone area creek. Johnson's been doing the drive since he started the business back in 1982. Our first year in business, they delivered them to Gardner and I had no way, I didn't own a horse trailer, barely owned a pickup. So me and a nine-year-old boy went down there and we chased them home. The horses had no idea where to go. They were new horses. So we went up and down the alleys and we finally got them headed in the right direction and brought them on home. Took us about three and a half, four hours, but we got them here and since then it's just been traditional. It's a tradition that packs the Gardner roadside that people young and old love to watch. But the best seat is on the back of a horse. I've done it on and off since I was about 12 years old. Does it get a little western out there once in a while? Yeah it does, especially when they run through the car wash or into somebody's yard. Good times. Before it all begins, there's excitement in the air that Saturday morning at a big corral just outside Gardner where the horses have been trucked in from the Wyoming pasture where they've spent the winter. Oh yeah, definitely the anticipation. You feel it building. Yeah, all horses are getting jacked up. The cowboys and cowgirls who drive the herd include the wranglers who work for Warren this summer, plus family, friends, and ranch guests who come here from all over the world like Enzo Pellizzaro here from Italy and his cool woolly chaps for his fifth drive. Yeah, they're still alive. They're laughing. How many people are not still alive? I love the west. Ma Trucci is here from France for her first drive. You pretty excited? Yeah I am and I have a good horse so he's gonna help me. And Warren loves sharing the western way of life. And you know when I'm bringing that tradition to Italy, France, Brazil, people are coming over here to do that and see that and they love our lifestyle. They think it's the greatest thing going. Got nine minutes Brad. Finally the time has come and the drive is off and it's quite an experience for both man, beast, and spectators as the animals navigate parked cars and parking lots on their way through town, then up a hill stopping for a break and a snack along the way. First time for both of you? Oh yeah. How's it going? It's awesome. Break time ends. We're back on the road again and up the mountain. The drive trots through the tiny community of Jardine before finally reaching the ranch where the animals will spend the summer making horseback memories in the spectacular Yellowstone region that will last a lifetime. But while the drive is over, the fun is just beginning. For years, Warren has used the annual horse drive to throw a big western party with dinner, music, dancing, and an auction to raise money for a good cause. Buying high-tech track wheelchairs for disabled veterans sure changed his life and others who need them. Warren Johnson donated this to my father last year. Very, very, very kind of him. Each custom-made chair, which costs about $20,000, allows its owner to stand up and thanks to its treads go most anywhere. It's a cause the community turns out in a big way to support. They're raising money for a very good cause. Photographer Ron Hayworth was among the many donating items for the auction. Warren Johnson and family, they donate their time and money. 100% of the money is going for the track chairs. It's a neat charity to support. There was more action in the nearby horse arena while Warren saddled up a bronc to buck off the ashes of an old friend. I used to trade horses with him when I was a kid. He sold me three mules. I was 14 years old. It's the western way of life, working hard, doing what you love, loving what you do, lending a hand along the trail. I'm not giving a handout. I'm giving a hand up and I've had a few handups in life and I'd like to return the favor. And they'll do it again next Memorial Day weekend. Up next, what happened before the most famous battle of the Old West. We'll take you on the trail to the Little Bighorn just ahead. There's an endless fascination with the Old West battle known as Custer's Last Stand. Hundreds of thousands of people visit the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument every year. General George Custer and much of his 7th Cavalry were wiped out by Sioux and Cheyenne warriors. But there's a much bigger story beyond the battlefield you can now see along the back roads of southeast Montana. This is Custer's campsite, June 22nd. It's like a fascinating roadside history book on an often overlooked but crucial part of Custer's Last Stand. The 7th Cavalry arrived here about four o'clock in the afternoon. Free for anyone to see who's willing to pull off the busy interstate. There was a lot of Indian activity that they were seeing on the north side of the Yellowstone. Lieutenant James Bradley, chief of scouts, preceded up this drainage right here. This is Butte Creek drainage. Eventually you're going to get to the high ground there. Those are called the Rosebud Buttes. Along the region's county highways and back roads, you'll discover 19 new roadside markers telling the story of the Trail to the Little Bighorn. The significant events leading up to and immediately following the most famous Battle of the Old West. Essentially it's an invitation to get off the interstate and follow these little two-lane roads and read about Montana history. Custer was also ordered. The new markers are the work of retired educators Ellis Perry and Dennis Kapitsky. We are sitting on a goldmine as far as the Custer junkies are concerned. This area's peaceful country roads belie the dramatic history that took place here nearly 150 years ago. The events leading up to and in the aftermath of the Custer battle were as interesting as the battle itself. There are also markers from 1873, three years before the Little Bighorn. When Custer and the Seventh were sent here to protect the survey crew for a new railroad and fought three skirmishes with the Lakota. The Indians, their tactics were strike and then run away, you know, strike and run away. Custer felt and the officer accord to a man felt that that the Indians would have run away the first time somebody in a blue uniform showed up. That didn't happen at the Little Bighorn. Southeast Montana also has a wealth of small town museums, but their own historic treasures. They're small museums in virtually every small community that you visit. Foresight has a very nice museum. There's a small museum there. It's all fascinating stuff. Interesting story. These three guys are out hunting. They were up there out of the sight of the troops and they got trapped by the Indians. And they look up on the bluff and there's the Lakota watching the funeral. And while it was a long time ago, it's American history that has much in common with the battles of today. If you read the backstory, Custer got crosswired with President Grant because he criticized the president's brother. If kids want to study history and understand the nature of politics in America today, all I have to do is look at Custer and what was going on 130 years ago. He was a silver screen cowboy and the real deal as well. We'll tour his California ranch just ahead. January 21st, 1938. Yep. A cattleman's notebook. This dates back to probably the early 30s. A braided rawhide riata. It was comfortable to ride. A well-worn saddle made by a master craftsman. Had a lot of braided rawhide reins. The tools of the trade in the tack room of a California cattle rancher. I believe this is the one that he got from Will Rogers. And I've even seen it in a few movies that he did. Who was also one of Hollywood's biggest stars. Joel McRae as the Virginian. Actor Joel McRae. Call me that. Smile. My grandfather always said he only acted so that he could afford to ranch. And that was half a joke because I know he loved acting. Joel McRae and his actress wife Frances D. They met in 1933 while co-starring in The Silver Cord. By year's end, they were married. Living in the new home Joel had built on the ranch he'd bought. About 45 miles north of Hollywood. In what is now Thousand Oaks, California. Where they would share life together for the next 57 years. Yeah, my grandfather always said that it was close enough for him to get to them. But far enough away they couldn't get to him. The couple both had great success in Hollywood. Frances D. starred in more than 50 films. Including such classics as Little Women, Playboy of Paris and An American Tragedy. Joel McRae did more than 90 movies over five decades. Comedies, romance and dramas. You know how much I loved you. You think. Sorry if I'm late folks. But he felt most at home in westerns. Thanks. And after 1946, with one exception, there were the only movies he made. Including 1948's Four Faces West. The last of four films he co-starred in with Frances D. Early in his career, Joel made two pictures with Hollywood's biggest star of the 1930s. Will Rogers. Who became a close friend and mentor. Will asked him, what are you going to do with the money you're making for motion pictures? And my grandfather said, well I hope to buy a ranch someday. And Will said, don't wait for someday. He said, you'll end up like all these other actors. You'll buy a big car and you'll cruise up and down Hollywood Boulevard. You'll have nothing left to show for it. So he's the one that kind of gave him the advice. That if you're going to buy land, buy it now. He said, they're not making any more of it. It didn't take much persuasion. Joel McRae had long dreamed of owning a ranch. Born in 1905, he learned to ride horses growing up in Hollywood. At a time when road crews still used horses to create a new road called Hollywood Boulevard. Later, he would study acting at Pomona College. Under a very encouraging professor. His drama instructor was the one that said, you've got some talent and you've got good looks. And you might be able to afford that ranch a little sooner in life if you try acting. And so that's really kind of what pushed him into acting. And it worked out pretty well. Joel and Francis enjoyed the best of both worlds. The perks, pay and prestige of the movie business. And the ranching life in the country. The ranch would grow to 2,400 acres. The McRae's gave some of that land to two colleges. A wildlife refuge, a YMCA and a boys and girls club. Donations totaling well over 100 acres. Most of the rest became what is today the city of Thousand Oaks. But a remnant remains of nearly 300 acres. Including ranch buildings and the McRae home. Where Francis and Joel lived their western dream. While welcoming such friends as Gary Cooper and Katherine Hepburn. And today the ranch is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It's great to be able to keep the tradition alive, you know. I mean there's been horses and McRae's on this property for 82 years. And horses for longer than that. Joel passed away in 1990. Francis D. in 2004. And the McRae family wanted to preserve not only the Hollywood history of these two famous stars. But also a ranching way of life that has vanished in much of southern California. So much of it has been torn down. There's very very little left that actually kind of shows that particular time period in history. And this ranch has pretty much been unchanged. Today the property has been donated to the local park district. And is open to the public for tours on a limited basis. But to be able to share that history with the general public. And especially today's young people. Because they really don't understand the history of farming and ranching. Or where food comes from. So those kind of things are the main driving force for what we're trying to do here today. And that's why in 2011 we built the little visitor center here. The visitor center tells the story of this famous Hollywood couple. Who found fame and glory in the movies. And lived the cowboy and ranching life far away from the spotlight. Bill you want to do it for 900? The McRae Ranch Foundation is working to restore the property. And hosts periodic fundraisers at the ranch. Which is also available for weddings and other special events. There are still those in Hollywood who love westerns. And you'll often see those actors, stuntmen and others connected to the business. At McRae Ranch events. Like John Wayne's granddaughter. They definitely knew each other. I think my grandfather had a huge crush on Francis D. The Duke and Francis D co-starred in the 1941 film A Man Betrayed. To save this for the children of this area. It's one of the things that touches my heart. So I'm happy to help Wyatt raise money to preserve this ranch out here. John Wayne memorabilia was among the items auctioned off at the annual Cowboy Cookout. Thank you for joining us today. Cowboy Cookout is the one and only time that the home of Joel McRae and Francis D is open to public tourists. It's fascinating to get a look at the home life of these Hollywood stars. I grew up in Thousand Oaks. It's my 56th year here. I didn't even know this was here. You've got all the little memorabilia in there. And the personalized little plates in the kitchen. And it's just really sweet. For those who love the movies, the cowboy life, or both. McRae Ranch is a beautiful place to see with a fascinating story. That's now a part of California and Western history. You certainly feel their presence. There's no question about that. But for Wyatt, it's all very personal. He was very close to his grandparents. And lived on the property to help them out during their later years. And still lives here today with his wife Lisa. It's an absolute privilege to live here and enjoy what has been such a family history. I just love it. For me, it's kind of like hallowed ground. My grandfather was a larger than life figure. And to be around him and to have had the opportunity to spend many years here at this ranch with him was just both a treat and a blessing for me. And to hear his stories and to hear all the time and work that he put into this place, building it up, I mean, those were special moments. There's no question about it. So for me to be able to try and carry on that legacy in even a small way is very important to me and has become part of my life's work at this point. While much of the McRae Ranch has been preserved, many California ranches have been lost forever to development. If we don't conserve them now, we'll lose them. But there's a group working to save the Golden State's remaining ranches and having success doing it. We'll show you what's happening when today's Wild West continues. The beautiful images of the romantic Western lifestyle can disguise its harsh realities and tough choices. Kettle ranchers are often land rich, but cash poor, and tempted to sell out to developers. It's happened a lot in California, now home to 40 million people. And I woke up one day and I thought, wow, we're covering California with asphalt. What's going to be left to sustain? The California Ranchland Trust was created to solve that problem, and it's making big progress. As the CRT and its supporters gathered in Livermore for their annual Western Affair fundraiser, there was much to celebrate. Since its founding in 1998, the CRT has saved more than 340,000 acres of California ranch land. Well, I like to put it in terms of square miles because it's a more impressive number. We've preserved over 500 square miles of land, and that's twice as big as the city of San Francisco. The CRT has produced a number of short films telling their story and explaining their work. For the last 30 years, like most ranchers in California that are trying to survive, I have seen some absolutely gorgeous, high-functioning farms and ranches in Northern California that have been split apart and sold and developed and are no longer working landscapes. Because California has been growing so fast, we're losing ranch lands very rapidly to development. And once the land is converted to other uses, it doesn't go back. The Trust rescues ranches from development by offering conservation easements. It allows the people who have been taking care of the land to stay on the land. The land is appraised as a cattle ranch, and then it's appraised as what it could be other than a cattle ranch. And then that difference is what we try to achieve in a payment to the rancher to get the easement. In exchange, the rancher agrees to never develop the property. The money enables a working cattle ranch to remain economically viable, allowing the ranch family to remain on the land and continue ranching for generations to come. The reason that it's important to keep private landowners on the land is because they care so deeply about the land. They've been there for generations. They understand it. Public land managers have a different vision sometimes. For us, it's 1,000 acres. When you get down to the granularity of knowing how to manage your 1,000 acres, it's hard for somebody that runs a very large organization to understand. Private ranch lands are also home to wildlife and watersheds, the source of drinking water for urban populations. You drive along the freeway, and you see open space, and you see all this clean air and clean water. That's provided by ranch owners and farmers. We need to save these kinds of beautiful environmental places for our children. Otherwise, everything's going to get developed. There's going to be houses on every square mile of land up and down the whole state of California. Plus, by preserving ranches, you're preserving ranching communities. Well, I love the land, and I love the legacy, but I especially love the people, because people that are connected with the land are just the salt of the earth. They care deeply, often have been there for generations, and we're helping them, and they really want to help the state of California. That's it for now. We're back next time with more cool stuff from today's Wild West. I'm Mark Fedor. We'll see you down the trail. For more information on the people and places featured in today's Wild West, or to order show DVDs and books, visit todayswildwest.com. Funding for today's Wild West provided by the Leggett Foundation and the Chuck Wagon Trail Riders Foundation.