3-8 Braided-waist Coat and Robe in the History of Yuan Dynasty

Hello everyone, last section we have talked about the base of Song dynasty. Now let's continue to learn braided waist robes in the history of Yuan dynasty. Zhi Sun Silt. Throughout the Chinese history, the Yuan dynasty is an era of ethnic integration and its clothing has also fully embodied such features. Chengji Sihan, the first emperor of the Yuan dynasty, has founded Khanate in 1206 and whose nationality is mostly the Mongolian. In 1321, referring to the ancient system, the emperor Yuan Yingzong has formulated the system of Zhi Sun Silt. The upper garments of the coats of the emperors and officials are all connected with the lower ranks. The silt has been tightened at the top and shortened at the bottom with folds on the waist and large beads on the shoulders. The Han people call them the one-color silt or Zhi Sun Silt. It is a clothing system that inherits the characteristics of Han nationality and Mongolian nationality. The Zhi Sun Silt is a robe called braided waistcoat. This kind of robe worn by the rulers of the Yuan dynasty has a narrow collar and sleeves, a thin pleat at the waist, and is sewn and fixed horizontally with red and purple threads. The shorter robe is tight and narrow. There are many pleats at the waist. This kind of dress is very convenient to mount and dismount, easy to ride and shoot. This style is called Yi San in Ming dynasty for riding. It is a kind of clothing that relaxes and lengthens the body of the Zhi Sun Fu. The Zhi Sun Silt is defined as official uniforms. Based on the history of the Yuan dynasty, the official uniforms of the Yuan dynasty are first of all-color specific, so they are called one-color silt. In the Yuan dynasty, the Zhi Sun Silt is first used exclusively by the emperor and later became the formal dress of officials and guards. The Yuan dynasty emperors often wore yellow royal clothing, but they did not wear yellow every day. The so-called one-color silt refers to a uniform or one color for a dinner party. Based on the ancient records, the emperor's Zhi Sun Silt contains many styles, among which there are 11 kinds of winter clothes and 15 kinds of summer clothes, and they are graded by fabrics. The fabrics and colors used in each grade are completely unified. The clothes and hats are matched with each other, which makes the overall effect extremely excellent. For example, the winter Zhi Sun Silt contains the golden bracket warm hat, cemeterial multiple top hat, red gold dazi warm hat, white gold dazi warm hat, silver red warm hat, etc. The Na Shi Shi, that is, gold bracket, Qie Mian Li, that is, cutting fuzz, should match with the golden bracket warm hat. The bright red, pink, purple, blue, and green, the silt with top and bottom connected, should match with cemeterial multiple top hat, and the red, yellow, and pink leather silt should match with red gold dazi warm hat. The summer clothes should also be well matched. For example, the summer silt includes the treasure top gold phoenix symbols-like hat, beaded series hat, beaded rim symbols-like hat, white rattan treasure hat, golden phoenix hat, gold phoenix liquor yarn crown, yellow yakute hat with a back brim, cemeterial liquor yarn hat, etc. From the colors used in winter and summer silts, the winter is thicker and the summer is lighter, stressing overall coordination and demanding hollowness and uncommon. The Zhi Sun Silt of the officials contains 9 grains in winter and 14 grains in summer, which are also distinguished by the texture and color. The hats of the royal family in Yuan dynasty are all precious, crown hats inlaid with beads and inlaid with treasures. The materials used for winter clothing include sable, silver rat, white fox, black fox, lyx fur, and gold brocade, etc. They are also extremely precious. The rulers of the Yuan dynasty have held 13 big court meetings every year. Every time a meeting based on their ranks, kinship, and seniority, all the people wear the same color of Zhi Sun Silt in front of the hall and hold gold cups in hand to toast each other frequently. It is quite enthusiastic and spectacular. Okay, that's all the content of this course. The content of next course will be the coat dress in the history of Ming dynasty. See you next course.