River Dart: A Hidden Haven for Wild Creatures(4K Documentary)

Rivers and Lakes on the Earth
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This time I'm travelling up one of the wildest rivers in Britain.
The River Dart, stretching for nearly 50 miles from the English Channel on the south coast of
Devon, all the way up to the craggy rocks and tors of Dartmoor. It may not be the longest river in
the country, but it is arguably one of the most untouched by the modern world. It's one of the
And I'm going to be exploring it from sea to source.
My journey up the River Dart will take us through some of the most beautiful landscapes in the
country. But it's also a journey of romance, history and tourism. As we venture up the Dart,
we'll arrive at Agatha Christie's beloved holiday home,
where Poirot discovered a murder in the boathouse.
I'll try my hand at crabbing. Enjoy a cream tea on a steam train that hugs the river's edge.
And finally, I'll reach one of the wildest places in Britain, Dartmoor.
Magic. But I'm starting here, at the mouth of the river where the Dart
meets the sea, in a very special town, Dartmouth. Sheltered by a steep valley,
the river flows and widens through this bustling coastal town, passing the naval college it's
famous for. You stand and stare, there's just so much going on and there's so much sound.
Whether it's little boats chugging across or the gulls screeching overhead,
you look over at those houses there and it looks like a Battenberg cake, an explosion of colour.
Most exciting of all, I've just seen the seal swimming along here.
Really buzzing, isn't it? Fantastic town. But to really appreciate this river,
I've come right to the harbour edge because I'm waiting for a lift.
That looks like him. By him, I mean local legend and acclaimed seafood restauranteur Mitch Tonks.
I'm going to head out on that boat with Mitch. Quite excited to get on the water.
Hey Mitch. Hey Claire, how are you? Welcome aboard. All right, thank you very much.
Here we go. Great. Before we head upstream, Mitch has offered to take me
right out to the mouth of the Dart, where the river surrenders to the sea.
This is so exciting. It's great, isn't it? Yeah. And just getting out on the water and
seeing Dartmouth from the water and it's... It's pretty special, isn't it? Oh yeah.
As a boy, we would always holiday here. I was always sort of taken in by Dartmouth. It's just
got that real kind of welcoming feel and the river itself is, you know, central to life here really.
And I think what's really wonderful is you've got two sides to it. So we have Dartmouth on one side
and then over here we have Kingsway. Lovely. And then over here you see the crab is landing,
so that boat there, the orange one, that's where all the shellfish has landed. But mainly crab and
lobster is what they'll be fishing for. Okay. Never be mad for lobster or crab.
Sorry. You've got to have the crab. They are just magnificent.
Hmm. Before we get to that, coming out here is bringing on an acute case of property envy.
There's some very grand houses. There's this house here that somebody, I think,
took over 25, 27 years to build. So that is a new build. That is a new build. It looks medieval.
Wow. And one stonemason built it all. I mean, it's beautifully crafted. It looks like a castle.
It does, doesn't it? It looks like it's really blended in. And did that recently go up for sale?
It was sold earlier this year, I think, yeah. And what did it sell for? I think it was advertised
at about five and a half million. But whoever bought it has got themselves something truly
unique. Yeah. And the view they get. And so they look across to Dartmouth Castle.
They look across Dartmouth Castle out to sea. Truly, truly wonderful.
Once you're past Dartmouth and Kingsweir Castle, the view opens out to something truly spectacular.
So this is it, Claire. We're right at the mouth of the river and this is where the river really
meets the sea. Look at that. I just can't think of anywhere, anywhere I'd rather be in the world.
It's wonderful. On a sunny day, you would be hard-pressed to think you were in England. It's
just absolutely beautiful. What is it about the Dart that makes it special? I love this part of
it where you've got, you know, communities on both sides and things happening. But the further up you
go, you could be in New Zealand. You know, it's pretty special. Oh, I'm going to explore all of
this. You're going to love it. Oh, yeah. It's really, really great. But Mitch isn't going to let me leave
town without tasting a Dartmouth institution. This is it. My favourite crab place. And there she is.
Hello, Mitch. Oh, the famous crab lady. Hello. Nice to meet you. And you. Morning, Judith. You all right? Morning, Mitch.
Now, Mitch has promised me that you're going to convert me to crab because I'm not. Definitely. Okay.
It's the best crab meat. Comes in here on the River Dart. Lovely. Yes. So, a crab sandwich.
White meat, a little bit of white pepper, white bread. Yep. God, there's a lot of crab on that. Yeah, it's a proper
sandwich. Oh, you're going to love it. Thank you, Judith. Thank you. That is good. Oh, to be fair,
that is pretty good. This is one of Dartmouth's hidden gems. It is. Thanks, Judith. Thank you very much.
Thank you. Cheers. So, what do you think? Have I converted you? Well, you've definitely helped
my experience of life. You're on the way. Can't believe it. I'm officially a crab convert.
But I need to claw myself away from this fascinating town and head upstream.
So, I'm leaving Dartmouth now. And the Dartmouth Naval College, such an impressive building. But
also the place where the Queen first laid eyes upon Prince Philip. They were both very young at
the time. But what an extraordinary partnership that was. Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip's
love story began here by the River Dart as teenagers when he was training to be a naval
officer. And she paid a visit with her father. They were said to have enjoyed raspberries and cream
and a spot of croquet on the captain's lawn.
I am now heading upstream to find out more about another queen, the Queen of Crime.
I'm following the journey of the River Dart as it heads upstream from Dartmouth towards its source
in Dartmoor. Here's an interesting fact I found out recently. The name of the river most likely
derives from the old Celtic Devonian language, possibly meaning River of Oaks. And indeed,
stretches of the Dart still twist through valleys of ancient oak woodland. On the kayak,
you get really close to the shoreline and appreciate the wildlife.
My next stop on this gem of a river is just a few miles north of Dartmouth.
This is really nice. The mood completely changes as you head up river and get to this pearl of a
village. It's spelt Dittisham, but the locals call it Ditsam. And this is just quintessentially
Devon. Bedded into the banks of the Dart, Ditsam is the kind of place where the rush of modern life
is washed away with the gentle tide. You can while away hours watching the boats sail past
or crabbing on the quay. It's meant to be so easy to catch crabs here that even an idiot like me can
do it. Famous last words. But really, how hard can crabbing actually be? Now, I never did this as
a child, so I might be really, really rubbish. But he's got 15 crabs up there. My sporting
background makes me naturally pretty competitive. So if a young boy can catch these cunning
crustaceans, then I'm damn sure I can too. Come on, crab. Oh, hello. No, nothing there. Right,
go again. Did you carry it out very far or just drop it? Just drop it. Oh, oh, oh, I definitely,
definitely, definitely got something. Oh, my word. This is so exciting. Then what did you do?
Oh, no. Oh, that was rubbish. Oh, hello. Okay, now I've got a massive one here.
Oh, come on. Yes. Oh, no. Oh, this is getting embarrassing. That was the biggest crab you've
ever seen. Right, one last try. Come on, crab. Okay, okay, I've got some on here. Now then,
I'm going to go for a quick one, all right? Look at that. Well done. Thank you, boys.
Thank you very much. With a bit of help, this idiot has managed to catch a crab or two.
And I'm smart enough to know to quit while I'm ahead and swap crabs for culture. Opposite here,
on the other side of the river, is one of the jewels of the Dart. So I need to hop on a ferry.
Here's something that hasn't changed for hundreds of years. To get the ferry,
you ring the bell. Oh, jeepers. Sorry. Sorry. Sorry, darling. Sorry.
That delightful and deafening sound summons the ferryman, would you believe?
Hi there. Pleased to meet you. And you. I'm Claire. Brilliant. I'm David.
Retired teacher Dave is the current ferryman on the short two-minute crossing.
Though he still finds time to tell some colourful tales of the river.
We're coming up to the anchor stone up here, which is visible at low tide. And that's got
a lovely legend. Legend has it that nagging or unfaithful wives were tied to the rock,
and then the tide came in. Yeah, Dave, I've got a bit of an issue with that as a legend.
It was obviously dreamt up by a man. That is a legend told by a man who didn't like his wife.
There's been a ferry here since the Bronze Age, since 4,000 years ago. So what you're doing is
probably one of the most ancient jobs of the lot. Absolutely. They say don't pay the ferryman.
I noticed the charges and it's card only. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
Tell me about your passion for the Dart. Why do you love this river?
It's because you've got little creeks, you've got little harbours,
you've just got countryside, nature and wildlife. And it's perfect.
Once you fall in love with the Dart, you can't find anywhere better.
Dave's love for his river is tangible, and he's in good company. I really appreciate it. Thank
you so much. Because one of the most famous women in the world had her heart captured by it too.
This is the magnificent Greenway Estate, once the holiday home of the bestselling novelist of
all time. A woman outsold by only Shakespeare and the Bible. She sold a staggering two billion books
globally. Yep, I'm talking about the queen of crime, Agatha Christie.
How are you? Lovely to see you. Good to see you.
I'm meeting Laura Thompson, writer, freelance journalist and Agatha Christie expert.
What a place this is. I know, isn't it gorgeous?
And as a holiday home too. Yes, it was where she came in the summers
with the family. They played croquet here. Don't think on this lawn, that would have been
interesting. And of course, boating trips on the Dart, which was where she first saw this house,
was from the Dart. As a child, she was sailing up the Dart with her beloved mother,
and she says in her autobiography, my mother thought this was the most perfect of all the
properties on the River Dart. And that would have gone in and that would have meant a lot to her.
Years later, when Agatha Christie bought Greenway House and all its grounds in 1936,
she paid only £6,000, the equivalent of just over £500,000 today.
Gosh, it's amazing, isn't it, that we can just walk into her house, her holiday home,
exactly as it was. Yep, family portraits and all her collecting things and...
Weird skull with a frog on it. Yes, that I can't, I can't...
Whatever that is. And this is the library.
And there's, among other books, there's all Agatha's 66 novels,
collections of short stories. She was endlessly creative, ceaselessly creative.
After Dame Agatha died in 1976, Greenway House was passed down to her daughter,
Rosalind, who lived here until her death in 2004, by which point it had been in the Christie family
for more than 60 years. You get the feeling that this is still, and the way it's being
kept by the National Trust, very much a family home. You know, I'm desperate to sit on the sofa
rather than just lean against it. I want to play the games. I want to eat the chocolates.
Yes, this is how it was. There's a marvellous thing in the dining room. The doorstop is like
a snake with a pointy forked tongue, and Agatha nicked her stockings on it,
and she was so vexed by that she put a cork on the tongue and it's still there.
However lovely and splendid it is, it's homely, I think, relaxing.
To Agatha, Greenway wasn't just about the Georgian house. She was also passionate about plants.
Such a wild feeling garden, isn't it? Yes, it's magical. It's absolutely magical,
and then always the beautiful gleam of the river through there.
At the bottom of the garden is a very special place, the Boathouse, a place where Agatha
Christie and her family spent a lot of time, and also the setting for a murder in one of her books.
Gosh, this is a bit dark and creepy. It's very spooky.
It's odd because she did set a murder in this boathouse, and you would actually think
in there, wouldn't you, really? Yes.
But she didn't really use water that much for murderous purposes.
Right, let's go see where she did have the murder committed.
So this is the upper floor of the boathouse, and this famously is where the body of Marlene Tucker,
the first victim in Dead Man's Folly, was in here.
Laid across here? Yes, probably.
The other thing, you know, murder aside, the other thing that you just see when you come in here is
that view. And it is so beautiful.
It's just too magical. She said, I get a kind of pang over its beauty,
almost like it was too much to believe that you lived in this dreamlike place.
Yeah. And it is the river that makes it.
What a view that is. Just perfect.
Agatha Christie wrote to her husband, Max, she said,
I thought sitting there tonight, this really is the loveliest place in the world.
It was a place where her brain could regenerate, where she could cogitate,
where she could come up with the next big idea.
And it works. It makes me want to write a novel.
But in the meantime, it makes me want a glass of wine.
Luckily for me, my dreams may be answered.
As you travel upstream, ancient woods hug the riverbank.
It's so green and verdant and those trees sort of tumbling down to kiss the water's edge.
And these days, vineyards are a part of this landscape.
A couple of miles from Greenway and up the banks above the River Dart,
I've come to explore one of the most celebrated vineyards in the country.
Sharp and Wines have been growing grapes and making wine on the banks of the Dart
since the early 1980s. They're now based here in Sandridge Barton.
Hi there.
Hi Claire, how do you do?
I don't want to interrupt your pruning.
My grape guide is head winemaker, Duncan.
How many vines do you have here?
The vineyards are about 40 acres.
We can see the river in the distance.
I mean, does it change the light and the way the sun hits the vineyard?
Massively. So you get this amazing, not only direct light onto the canopy itself,
but you get this reflected light that comes up off the river.
It also acts as a thermal blanket. So like vineyard regions around the world,
you've got sort of the Loire Valley and the Moselle and those vineyard regions
are planted on the banks of the river for a very good reason and ours is no different.
So should we go on a wine safari and I'll show you a little bit more about what we have here?
Yeah, sounds great.
Sandwich Barton is unique because this is a grower-producer winery.
That means they carry out the full process on site,
from handpicking the grapes all the way to bottling and labelling,
a process honed over more than 40 years.
When we trialled the sites back in 1982,
we didn't actually know what varieties were growing at this time.
So we literally had to dig a hole, plant an acre of vines and just see what could happen.
Looking around today, it's clear the experiment was a success.
But a wine safari isn't a wine safari without the wine.
So Duncan is taking me to a very special location to really drink it all in.
What a spot this is. I mean, right over the river.
Perfect place for cheese and wine. I've been looking forward to this all day.
So the first one we're going to try is our Blanc de Noir, which means white of black,
which means it's white sparkling wine made in the traditional method from the black grape.
Cheers. Thank you.
So very refreshing, nice and clean.
Yes.
Really good fruits in it. All made on the banks of the River Dart.
That tastes like an award-winning sparkling to me.
It's passed the balding taste test.
So alongside with that sparkling wine, this Ticamore goat's cheese,
and it's got a really soft, creamy texture to it.
And it goes really well with sparkling wine.
Goats graze the banks on the River Dart here.
So I am eating and drinking the River Dart.
You are.
The only thing we don't use the river for at the moment
is actually transporting the grapes up and down the river.
But maybe that's to come.
I think I've got time for one more glass.
We've just entered this into the Wine GB Awards,
and it's picked up the best red wine in England,
and the best still wine in England.
Yeah, be rude not to try.
That's really rich.
You know what? I could get used to this.
This is so lovely. The perfect view.
A bit of wine in my hand, which has gone straight to my head.
Lovely cheese, which I adore.
I could stay here, well, for a week.
But I can't because I've got places to go and people to see.
So it's full steam ahead to Totnes.
Where I'll be taking a special riverside journey.
It feels like the train is actually travelling on top of the river.
Going in search of the Dart's cutest residents.
Good bit of fish coming.
My journey up the River Dart continues.
And once I'm past Stoke Gabriel,
the river begins to narrow as it snakes and slithers through the sharper mistates.
From its majestic 18th century Palladian villa,
there are magnificent views of the Dart below.
And then it flows into the pretty town of Totnes.
It's here that the river begins to change its character.
This is where it stops being tidal and becomes a freshwater river.
Totnes is a really charming market town.
It won't allow any chains, so all the shops are independent.
Until recently, it had its own currency.
And the locals used to joke that it should be twinned with Narnia.
It's also been referred to as Britain's alternative capital for new age chic.
It may be a town that prides itself on being forward-thinking.
But today, to navigate a pretty isolated stretch of river,
I'm turning to a mode of transport from the past.
Hello, Claire.
Welcome to the South Devon Railway.
Thank you.
I understand this next bit of river would be pretty difficult to do
either on the water or on foot.
So best way by train?
Best way by train. And what's better than a steam train?
Very special. Thank you very much.
Do join us.
Thank you.
The South Devon Railway has been operating as a heritage railway since 1969.
And in the summer months, up to seven trains a day depart Totnes.
We're off and running. It's very smooth.
It's largely run by unpaid volunteers,
with some 600 of those pitching in to help with the day-to-day running of the railway.
That's so many people doing their work for the love of it,
because they're passionate about steam trains.
And the other benefit, obviously, of coming by train, it's not just the view.
It's also the fact that they promised me a cream tea.
But because we're in Devon and not Cornwall,
I need to do this the Devon way.
So cream first, lots of it.
And I think that makes sense, because otherwise,
if you don't go cream first, you need to do butter as well.
You don't do butter as well as cream.
Strawberry jam.
So Devon-style tea.
And this should help soak up that wine.
There's a rule in television that you shouldn't eat on camera.
I don't think that's a problem, as long as you don't try and speak.
So I'm not going to speak for the next 20 minutes.
I'm just going to eat.
The rail line runs from Totnes all the way up to Buckfastley,
and is actually the longest established steam railway in the south-west.
The seven miles of track virtually touches and hugs the course of the river.
Gosh, we're so close to the river.
There's some people kayaking.
Hi!
We're so close to it.
It feels like the train is actually travelling on top of the river, floating above it.
And you get a real sense there's a curve here.
The curve in the railway line and how it is constructed to absolutely follow the river.
The steam exhaust at the top is where the big sound comes from.
That happens as steam escapes under a great deal of pressure.
And it's how we get the expression, blowing off steam.
I love the way we get clouds of steam coming by.
And the noise of it as well, the real...
Through the trees, just the other side, our constant companion.
The river dart.
It's getting more and more rural as we head inland.
You can feel and see it changing.
It becomes more overgrown, the river starts to get wilder.
It's so lush and green and thick and dense.
Half an hour or so later, we're pulling into the station at Buckfastley.
One of the gateway towns to the wilderness of Dartmoor.
As tempting as that is, before I venture straight into the wild,
I've got an appointment with some curious, hard to spot creatures that I adore.
Otters.
I didn't manage to see any otters on the river dart.
But I know that they've been here for over 10,000 years.
So there is one way of guaranteeing a sighting of at least one.
This otter sanctuary on the banks of the river at the edge of Dartmoor
has been looking after and rehabilitating otters for 38 years.
And it was founded by otter enthusiast, David.
David, tell me about the setup here.
How and why you established it?
Well, a long time ago, this was back in the 80s,
we suddenly became aware of the drastic loss of our otters in the wild.
And I grew up on the banks of the river dart.
Got involved here, set all this up.
We do rescue and rehab work and we provide a lovely visitor center
for people to come along to learn about the otters
and let them be aware of what they can maybe do.
How would you describe them as creatures?
What's their daily routine and what are they like?
Otters have a period of activity,
which the wild otter would be traveling up and down its territory,
foraging, hunting, playing around.
Because otters love to play.
But involved in that, you know, they've got to feed.
So once their tummies are full,
they think, oh, OK, what are we going to do?
Have a little rest.
And then they get up and do it all again.
As well as rehoming,
David and his team also rehabilitate injured and orphaned otters
for re-release back into the dart.
It's a beautiful river and we've seen the otter population come back.
So we have sightings of otters on the river.
Have you seen them in the wild?
I've seen them in the wild.
I've seen them on the dart here.
We've had visitors come in from the river dart
to play with our otters who are here.
So I've come in every morning.
You mean otter visitors?
A wild otter has come in.
Really?
Yeah, yeah.
So I've come in in the morning and I'm counting them.
Oh, where did you come from?
And there's been an extra one.
So we have to try and catch the visitor very quickly.
Just pop him back from whence he came.
So on you go, back into your river.
You've got all that.
Absolutely, yeah, yeah, yeah.
They are otterly adorable.
Sorry, couldn't resist.
But anyway, it's dinner time.
Although for the first time today, I won't be doing the eating, thankfully.
God.
The otters feed on a pungent variety of fish and poultry.
All right, sweetheart.
There we go.
Personally, I preferred that cream tea.
Brooke!
Brooke doesn't know how rubbish I am at throwing.
Oh, that was quite good, actually.
How much do they eat?
Between half and three quarters of their body weight every day.
Half and three quarters of their body weight?
Yeah.
But they stay so sleek.
They're pretty active animals.
Here you go.
It's quite lovely to have their habitat,
their natural habitat, so close to the sanctuary.
Yeah, so all of the water we get for all of the pools
comes straight from the river next to us.
So it's all natural for them.
There's something really comforting about knowing that these otters
are able to keep their connection to the River Dart.
From here, my journey upstream is taking me towards Dartmoor.
But as I enter the National Park,
I'm stopping at a section owned by an historic order of Benedictine monks.
Every river needs responsible care,
and there's no doubt who the custodian of the river is at this point
because it belongs to Buckfast Abbey,
which itself as a structure is pretty modern,
but as a monastery can trace its presence here
a thousand years back to the reign of King Cnut in 1018.
So only recently they celebrated their millennium.
Over those 1,000 years,
the monks living here have developed a deep connection with the River Dart.
They see themselves as stewards of the water,
and looking after their two-mile stretch is Aaron.
What a place to meet.
Hello, Claire.
Hey.
Welcome.
Thank you.
How are you? Welcome to Buckfast Abbey and the River Dart.
Oh my God, and the power of it here as well.
It's amazing. It's 10% of Devon's rainfall coming down here.
The monastery harnesses the power of the water here to create their own energy,
something they have done for centuries.
God, that's a really picturesque spot, isn't it?
Oh, it's beautiful. Absolutely beautiful.
Look at the sun coming out and suddenly the light really catching that froth.
It's completely magic, really magic.
You can start to see part of the fish pass forming here.
The fish pass was installed in 2021 to replace the old Victorian pool pass.
Originally when the whole project started,
we had a breach effectively happening sort of on this apron here.
So there was a hole in the weir?
Quite a big hole in the weir,
and obviously we had to get permission from the Environment Agency to go in,
so they recommended a new fish pass.
So this is what we created.
So the fish pass, it's like a bypass?
Yeah, it's like a bypass and a ladder effectively.
So there's troughs in it and the fish jump up it as they go,
and then they start jumping up and eventually they come back up here,
and then they can get up to the spawning grounds if you like.
So all this will now last for generations?
I hope so. My children love coming up here.
They always dream they're going to see a salmon.
For that slight extra cost of the civil engineering we had to do,
I think it will pay dividends in the long run for us.
I'm sure it will, and for the fish too, as they head upriver to spawn.
What I find very striking about Buckfast Abbey is
how they are now custodians of the river,
and that's how they see their role, creating and investing in it
to make sure the wildlife can continue to thrive.
But there are stretches of the Dart that have been left to do as nature intended,
and that's what I really want to experience next.
I need to go in search of the real wilds of Dartmoor.
My journey along the River Dart has brought me to a place
that couldn't be more different to the bustling scenes that greeted me at the start.
It is one of the great wildernesses in the UK, Dartmoor.
I've left Buckfast Lee and the Abbey behind
as I follow the course climbing up into the beauty of the National Park.
Weaving its way through dense forests and wild woodlands,
the riverbanks are a haven rich with wildlife.
It's little wonder that families like to escape here to bask in nature.
And there's no better place to meet author and wildlife expert
Chris Salisbury for a walk on the wild side.
This is a good boy.
Good morning.
Hello, morning.
Hello Claire, nice to meet you.
I'm very excited to be here where I feel the Dart is so wild.
This is the wild zone.
We're going to do some time travel, Claire, to how Dartmoor would have looked.
This has been preserved.
We can go for a walk in the wildest place, perhaps in England.
It really is like stepping over a threshold and being in prehistoric Britain.
I've got my binoculars, I've got my coffee, I am set.
Come on.
Let's do it.
Let's go.
Chris hosts workshops here in this private nature reserve that runs along the river,
an area which is in fact an incredibly rare temperate rainforest.
Love how the trees have just got that coat of moss.
Nettled in isolated pockets like this, temperate rainforests are lush woodlands
with mild, damp conditions, perfect for rare plants,
as well as remarkable birds, mammals and insects.
Oh look, here's one of our classic woodland species.
Ground is moving before our very eyes.
Can you see it?
Yeah, everyone's very busy.
Lots of little critters.
This is the wood ant, moving parts around.
Okay, moving what parts around?
What are they doing?
Yeah, they're sort of foraging for insects, decaying matter, you know, processing it.
I mean, they're incredibly industrious.
They're so strong.
They'll carry all sorts of things.
I think they're fascinating just to sit by and watch.
Sort of reminds me of the Tube in London and everyone getting on
and everyone going off to their different jobs
and then swarming back on again in rush hour.
And you think we're so far away from that here.
I feel so lucky to be here.
And this is as healthy as our rivers get.
In a nationwide pollution test,
the Dart was the only river in the country to come up to standard,
which is, of course, vital for the future of our wildlife.
And it's certainly working its magic on me.
There is something about walking alongside a river
and it's the hum, the sound of it,
but also the smell of this woodland.
It lifts me and I love the way that all of the trees just have this coating of moss.
It makes them feel as if they're animals rather than trees,
that they've got fur, that they're alive.
But Chris isn't done yet
because he's taking me to a curve in the river that is very special to him.
One of my favourite spots.
Spots like these where the river bends and then these great pools
are what I mean by time travel.
You could lose yourself in everyday time
and imagine our ancestors would have sat here with the same view
because this effectively just hasn't changed.
This section feels to me as if the river is passionate.
It comes around the corner and you've got that froth
and that feeling of energy and the dark coffee colour of the water.
You can feel the purity of the air.
You can actually feel that start to cleanse your lungs
and it does something to your soul.
Magic.
If I asked you to sum up the Dart in personality
and its effect on you, what it makes you think and feel,
what would that be?
I mean I've been in love with this river since I moved here nearly 30 years ago
and the courtship is just ongoing because it's changeable.
It's beautiful.
I actually feel most alive when I'm on this river
so I owe a death of gratitude to this river for all of its stories
and its remarkable history and my endless, I suppose, love affair with it.
I could sit and stare at the peaty brown richness of the Dart for days and weeks
and I understand what's attracted so many people to this area.
So much to do.
I've done a lot of it.
I've eaten crab sandwiches in Dartmouth.
I've eaten a cream tea on a steam train and drunk wine by the banks of the river
but it's not all been about the food and the drink.
I've fed otters.
We've seen wildlife and gone on that amazing walk with Chris.
This river may not be the longest that we cover in the series
but it has the greatest rise and fall and in many ways
it is the most dynamic.
The dynamic Dart.
I like that.
