Secrets of the River Thames (Wildlife & History Documentary)

This time I'm exploring the treasures and the tales to be found along a world-famous waterway. When you think rivers in Britain, top of the list has to come the River Thames. The Thames travels for 215 miles from a field in Gloucestershire all the way to the coast of Essex. Most people associate it with London and its legendary landmarks but I'm really interested in the rural stretch, the people who live on it and beside it, the wildlife that surrounds it and the tales the Thames can tell. The section of the river I'm going to be exploring is what some call the Freshwater Thames. It travels from its source near Kemble in the Cotswolds passing through southern Gloucestershire. From there it weaves its way through the historic spires of Oxford where the pastime is punting. Keep going, keep going, keep going. Let it float up. Along the landscapes that inspired Mole, Ratty and Mr Toad in Kenneth Graham's Wind in the Willows. That's got to be it. To the glamorous splendour of the Cliveden Estate. This is the most beautiful stretch of the River Thames. Amazing. And the royal seat of Windsor Castle. I am, if you like, the king's man on the river. On to the edge of London. What an adventure awaits. But first, to the very beginning. I'm starting my journey here around 20 miles or so from the river's source at St John's Lock because just up there is the really pretty Cotswold town of Lechlade and that is the highest navigable point on the river. This stretch of river about 100 years ago would have been really busy. They were taking wool and salt and cheese and taking it right across the country to Oxford down there and on to London. Nowadays it's more full of pleasure cruisers and people just enjoying life on the river. The Thames still sees plenty of people taking to the water and it's thanks to the age-old system of locks designed to move boats along its changing levels. There are 45 of them in total and they're managed by lock keepers like Lee. Hello. Hello Claire. Nice to meet you. As nine to fives go this has to be one of the more enjoyable. Lee, what a wonderful place to live and work. It definitely is. How did you come about it? Was there something you've done since you were young? No, so I was in the British army for 26 years and came to the end of my time. I'd walked the Thames with my wife. Stress was being relieved clearly while doing that walk and I was like how do I do this job because I was seeing all these lock keepers along the route as we went and it came to that end of the time and there was a job available and they don't come up very often. It was like the stars were aligning. From a lifetime in the army to the tranquility of the riverbank it's quite a career change. The sound of flowing water and just constantly watching the rippling surface, the way the light changes, you know immediately I can feel myself de-stressing. What difference has it made to your life? Are you a different person now you do this? I would say I'm a lot less grumpy. Being next to the river every day has clearly helped that greatly, yes. It sounds a perfect way to spend your day and ever willing to have a go. I've always fancied trying my hand at working the locks. That's it and it just clicks at the front there. Okay. Right on cue there's a boat incoming. Now you need to wind towards me. I'm going to do exactly the same on the other side. First we've got to open the lock to let the water flow in. What we're doing then is changing water level in the bath. If this is the bath. Exactly. We are changing it from the level it was at and bringing it up to the same level as on the other side. And then that boat can come through on the same level. Yes. Into the bath which I'm going to keep calling it. Yes. Not the technical term. That's fine. And then when it's in there. Yep. We shut these off again. And then we'll open the sluices up down that end. And then the water level will go down. Exactly. And away it goes. Spot on. Basically it's a lift system for boats. One that requires strength. Okay. So if you push on it now. There you go. Okay I've got it. God I can see why he doesn't go to the gym. Push it all the way open. Oh nice. And then we can just bring the boat in. That's very satisfying. Once the boat's in the gates are closed and the water level can come back down. Lee has to do this up to 30 times a day by himself. But the folks seem friendly. Hello. Thank you. You're welcome. I'm an official lock keeper now. Or we'll give you the nice name of Lockie. That's what they call us as well. I'm a Lockie. There you are. Yes. You see. So. How happy with that. Enjoy. Don't think Lee needs to worry. Your job's safe for now. But I tell you what. I am interested in that magnificent houseboat that we just let through. Can't wait to see this. It's one thing to work on the river. But I should imagine it's quite another to live on it. Down here. Skipper David has invited me on board for a chat about life afloat on the Thames. And a nose around. It's not too shabby is it? Please have a seat. Wow. That is very luxurious. Good isn't it? David runs a bespoke furniture company and he chooses to balance the busyness of work with the peace of the Thames. I'm beginning to understand the appeal. For you what does it mean to live on the river and why is it attractive? For me the river is magic. I've been around and on the Thames since I was a child. And it's just really special. It's calming and every day when you wake up and you look out of the hatches it's different. And you can't move any faster than the river moves. No. So there is that as well. Yeah it's a nice thing to do. How much time do you spend on board? Most of the time I'm on here. I love it. Are you one end of the boat for the morning and a different place for the evening? Yes because most of the light is obviously in the bow. Sit and drink coffee there? Yeah. And sit and drink something stronger here? Well anywhere really. David took my hint. Before I set off again he's treating me to something that is typically Thames. Now the really exciting bit. Yes. Is we've got the glasses in the champagne chiller. Oh wow. So you get chilled glass. So the glasses are cold. Nice touch. I'm not sure I've earned this drink but I'll have it anyway. Cheers. Thank you. I could get used to this sort of river life. Can't stop here though. I'm heading east. The Thames winds its way through beautiful Oxford. One of the most iconic cities in the world. The city of dreaming spires. As I search for the real Toad Hall. Oh yes. Oh yes that's Toad Hall. I've left St John's Lock following the Thames east towards Port Meadow just outside Oxford. This designated special area of conservation is where you might spot herons and kingfishers basking in the peace. Hi there. Morning. How you going? Yeah good thank you. Great place. I could stand and stare at this river for hours. It's the way the light actually plays on the water that I love and looking across at Port Meadow. It's just one of those places that's so special and completely untouched. Unchanged. For centuries it's never been farmed. It's never been developed and therefore it is an absolute haven for wildlife. Do you feel as if you've stepped into a Monet painting? From here it's just a half mile or so along the path to my next destination. The first city the Thames flows through. Well Oxford. Gosh what can you say. One of the most iconic cities in the world. The city of dreaming spires. Obviously at the heart of it is the university with over 26,000 students. But here's what I know about Oxford. If you're going to get in there you want to go by train, bicycle or walking. You do not want to drive. And to my mind walking in along the Thames is just about the best way to get there. The river is at the very heart of this city and arriving on foot allows you to look up and fully appreciate the architecture. Folly Bridge is thought to be where Oxford got its name. It's believed to be the site of a ford that once allowed oxen to cross the river. Ox ford. See? The other thing that Oxford is famous for is the quality of its rowing. Now I present the boat race every year so I see the blue boat the very best of the best out there on the Thames racing Cambridge. I did a little bit of rowing at university. I was all right but I wasn't that class. So I thought today I'd try something a little more genteel and see if I'm any good at it. Punting and the Thames go hand in hand. They're like strawberries and cream. It's been a leisurely way of gliding up and down the river since Victorian times. Cherwell Boathouse has been here since 1904 and they've got a fleet of grand mahogany punts all traditionally crafted on site in the workshop by carpenter Bob. Hello Bob. Hello there. This is fabulous. I do me best. And made by hand by you. By hand by me. I'm gonna go out and give it a go. I'm gonna be very respectful though because obviously I know that the punt I'm in will have been handmade by you. I do expect them to get a bit dented here and there. I'm still gonna try not to you know do my best not to ram it into the bank. Before I head out Bob has some local knowledge to share. There's all sorts of interesting stuff out there. Sometimes I see grass snakes swimming across the river and that. Oh really? Yeah. Snakes In the punt? Yeah. Okay. And presumably each punt is checked over before anyone goes in it. There's a snake checker. Why? Oh we don't actually. Snakes on a punt. Snakes on a punt. Yeah. Great. Well that's me terrified. Cheers Bob. Luckily I'll have Roger keeping an eye on me. He's in his fifth decade dealing with punters like me. So if you stand the pole up in the river. Yeah. And then you've got a nice hand hold for getting in the boat. Now it will move. Yeah. But it's not going to turn over. No. Whoa. Two hands on the pole. You're going to push straight behind. Hand over hand. Right to the top of the pole. Am I going out here on my own? Yeah. Right to the top. Right to the top. Relax. Let the pole just float. Two hands on the pole. Now the end in the water sweep it round behind you. Keep going. Keep going. Keep going. Whoa. Let it float up. Sweep the pole round to me. It's got stuck. I can confirm this isn't as easy as it looks. Whoa. Hand over hand. Strong. Strong. Strong. Oh sorry. I'm just turning around. Apologies. Hello. Sorry. I thought I'd better turn around and they haven't picked a particularly sensible spot. It's not the most relaxing thing in the world to be honest. Because it's not easy. Still Roger's confidence in me is comforting. Push. Hand over hand. By George I think she's got it. That's better. I don't know when we're going to see her again. Don't worry Roger. I am coming back. I hope. Well that was interesting. Quite glad I didn't fall in and I didn't damage Bob's boat. No it's lovely and I can see why it's something people come back and do. With practice it takes little effort. Yeah. And especially when you're not trying to get anywhere by a particular time. Do you know that's the thing and I think that's what I'm getting more and more in tune with. The pace of river life. That's why water's therapeutic because you've got no option but to take it at its speed. Yeah. No that's very nice. So I owe you 22 quid now. That's it. I'm not going to lie I'm quite glad to be back on dry land for a bit. Well that was an adventure. I'm not sure I'm necessarily going to take up a career as a professional punter. But do you know that Lewis Carroll apparently dreamt up the idea for Alice in Wonderland while on the river in Oxford. But this area and river life in general that calls to mind a different work of children's literature. I'm thinking Ratty, Mole, Toad. I'm thinking Toad Hall. I'm thinking Wind in the Willows. One of the most famous books ever to have taken inspiration from the River Thames. Its author Kenneth Graham lived beside it allowing him to dream up the endearing characters and their houses. Now according to the experts the actual inspiration for Toad Hall is the rather magnificent Hardwick House. I'm about to get my first glimpse of it. Oh yes. Oh yes that's Toad Hall. And not only was the house the inspiration it could also have contained the human version of Mr Toad. So could this 16th century house and its past occupants really be behind this well-loved tale? That's got to be it. I mean this is the description. Rounding a bend in the river they came in sight of a handsome dignified old house of mellowed red brick with well-kept lawns reaching down to the water's edge. Okay so the lawn isn't like that anymore but the house got to be hasn't it? There's one person who will know better than anyone. Miriam Rose. Hi. Hi Claire. Whose family have lived here for generations. So I was just reading this section in here and the description of Toad Hall. Yeah. And what do you think? I mean you know. I think it speaks for itself to be honest and I mean I grew up calling my ancestors Mr Toad. You know so in our family history it's kind of in concrete that this is that this is where it's based. Of course the reality probably is that Kenneth Graham based it on lots of houses but this has got to be a really strong contender and certainly my ancestor Sir Charles Rose my great-great-grandfather has got to be a strong likeness of Mr Toad. So what was he like? I mean because it's it's very complimentary about his generosity. Yeah. Possibly not. Yeah. It's a mixed report. Well you know you can only deduce from history. I think he was a big character. He was new money at the time. He was kind of very flamboyant. Having big parties. Buying cars. He got into planes. He got into training horses. He had two or three derby winners. You know he was everywhere doing everything. Very Mr Toad like. I'm intrigued. Everything Miriam says chimes with the character that Mr Toad was and it's certainly possible that the two men could have met. Both originally coming from the banking world. So this is him. This is Mr Toad. This is the man. Mr Toad. Sir Charles Day Rose. Yeah. I mean he was really into photographs. Took photos of everything and you can just see the life they were living. Henny Regatta. The gondola that they brought back from Venice with a gondolier. No way. Yeah. So you know the wealth was immense and then he lost it all again because the stock market crashed and he put hard work on the market. He said okay you know that's it. But his children said we must never sell and we must keep this in the family. And for Miriam and her family the plan now is to share it with the local community so that even more people can grow up along this enchanting part of the Thames. How tethered do you feel to the river? How important has it been in your life? You know summers were very wind in the willows. We had some shonky old boat like that one we've got there which is my current one and we'd be off rowing and drifting down to the lock and getting an ice cream and drifting back and swimming. The river is very important to all of us. Miriam thank you so much. There's no doubt in my mind that this part of the Thames inspired Kenneth Graham and you can see why. I've definitely found Mr Toad and possibly one of the but next I'm heading downriver to another fantastic location that may well have influenced Kenneth Graham. It is now a luxury hotel Mr Toad would have approved. I'm off to Clifton. I've left behind the wooded landscapes that inspired the wind in the willows. Hello Mike. Hi. Thank you so much. Welcome aboard. Now I'm getting back on the water, this time traveling in style on a traditional Thames cruiser, a 1930s slipper boat. Oh I'm liking this. Perfect. I shall sit like a queen. This magical part of the river is where you really feel like you're escaping the hustle and bustle of the real world. It's really wild here. You know there are no buildings, only greenery, woodland on this side. Lots of people kayaking and paddleboarding on the river and that feeling of it just being a space where you can be free and yet you are half an hour from London. Everyone's so friendly on the river. They'll wave at each other. It's like a shared you know space. So you're part of the river community. I like that. I'm on my way to Clifton House. I've visited before but I've never come by boat. The beauty of arriving by river is you get the full grandeur of the view. That is a view and a half. Set majestically overlooking the Thames, Clifton House today is one of the most exclusive hotels in Britain. Its extraordinary Italianate style was the work of architect Charles Barry, the man behind other great British landmarks. Think Big Ben and Highclere Castle, the setting for Downton Abbey. And as for the people, William Waldorf Astor was once the richest man in America and he bought Clifton. This place has entertained guests from the royal family to musical royalty, acting stars. And now, best foot forward, it's my turn. Escorted by front of house manager George. Welcome to the house. Oh thank you. It's beautiful isn't it? It really is. I see you looking at this lovely step. All these important people, all this who is who of the time would walk through this door. So every little bit was worn off by them. Is it okay if I add my foot to the step? Please, definitely. Got to admit I feel a little underdressed. Here we are, beautiful great hall. That is a lot of wood panelling, George. Indeed, exactly what Lady Astor thought at the time. I feel like locked inside of a cigar box, she said. I tell you what, she's not far wrong, that is what it feels like. Yeah, I sort of see where Lady Astor was coming from. These figures are extraordinary. Yes, beautiful carving. It's no wonder that she demanded the best room in the whole house. What a difference this room makes to the great hall we've just been in. Well it's so light and bright isn't it? This is exactly where she wanted to be. This is what she meant by beautiful house and you know this is where she liked to stay. It's a very nice suite, George. Would you like to stay? How much does it cost? Around 1500 pounds. A night? A night, yes. Okay. We can negotiate. Yes we can. I'll include full English. Thanks, I should hope so for 1500 quid. But what you do get with this suite is a space to take in the magnificent gardens. This is it. Look at the view. And of course the spectacular river Thames. And it seems to me this garden, it's almost designed to be viewed from up here. I think that's the only way to admire it properly. And obviously you can see the river there. Yes, and this is the most beautiful stretch of the river Thames. Amazing. One visitor who would have agreed is Cliveden's most famous. When the Duchess of Sutherland lived here, she would entertain a VIP down on the riverbank in the more humble spring cottage. Very different in design isn't it to the main house? It is very different but also served very different purpose to the house. On occasion we had a royal barge stopping off at the mooring and then Queen Victoria would get off and then Duchess would take tea with her here. And obviously you're right on the river and it's really peaceful here. It's like time has slowed down here. Such a perfect place to reset and this is what Queen Victoria thought as well. It's just really private and peaceful. It's all too tempting to stay a little longer and be privy to more crown secrets. But since we're talking royalty and the Thames is one of four royal rivers, I've got wind of a historic event nearby that I'd be mad to miss. The swan, which I've spotted plenty of times around here, is a bird that has been owned by the monarch for centuries. At one time even feasted upon at celebrations. While they're no longer a part of royal banquets, one unique tradition has remained and it happens to be taking place today. Sometimes in life you just get your timing right so I am so lucky to be on the banks of the Thames during an annual event that only happens in July. It happens between Sunbury and Abington. It has very regal connections and it is the wonderfully named process of swan appen. From what I know this is like taking a census of all the swans on the river, only it looks a little more regal. To tell me more is the dashingly dressed David who boasts the intriguing title of the swan marker. David, this is a very fine uniform. Yes. What does it mean? What does it represent? Well as I'm the king's swan marker we have the uniform with all the braiding, the buttons on there with the actual cipher of the king on them. And the feather? The feather, no that's traditional. So tell me a bit about the history of the role. Swan appen itself dates back to the 12th century but swan ownership goes right back to King Ada's day. That's over a thousand years ago so it goes back a long way. Most people will know that swans are the property of the monarch but that's not wholly true is it? It's not only the monarch. That is correct. Today we have three owners of swans excluding the monarch and that is the Vintner's Livery Company, the Dyer's Livery Company, the other one is Abbotsbury. The monarch has the right to own any swan swimming in open waters unmarked throughout the United Kingdom. If they're marked like the Vintners in Dyers then the crown can't have them. I had no idea that ownership of these birds was such a complex process but while traditionally swan upping was all about keeping an eye on the numbers and making sure every one is claimed, today it serves a second crucial role. These days it's all about conservation and education. We weigh them, we measure them and most importantly we check them for any injuries. Since there are thought to be over 400 swans on this stretch of the Thames it's time I let David get on with the job of rounding them all up. You know when they say things are quintessentially British? I offer you this sight. Loving David sat there on his throne, swung feather across the front dashingly on the angle. This is no good, I need to get closer to the action. Wendy works for a charity alongside David and his crew as they collect the vital data on the birds. There they are. Oh something's happening. It's a chance for me to see how this fascinating process works. What's happened they've just seen the family of swans and what they'll actually do now is all the boats will try to steadily edge the swans into the bank. Come on pull in, pull in, pull in. Once they've closed the gaps up that's when they'll catch and put them on the boats and then David will decide who has what you know whether it's the vintners, the dyers or the crowns. I see, I see and that's all quite choreographed the way they see how they've gone in there perfect. Yes yeah. Gently, gently, gently. Oh my god. The really important purpose of this is to check the health of the cygnets to weigh them. If there is anything wrong we just get one of our rescuers to come along and take them if if it's required. I've never seen anything like this before. It's amazing isn't it? It really is. I do it every year we do it and it's just amazing. Oh and he's just yeah okay David watch your trousers. They are huge. If I'm honest I'd probably prefer to keep my distance but David has other ideas. Claire's going to weigh them. Am I? You certainly are. All right hello okay all right sweetheart I know I know there you go all right okay. Can you read that off Claire now? 2.7, 2.8. Oh yeah yeah. Is that right? Thanks David. And what was the answer on the rings? So they are royal swans and therefore the cygnets. They'll be left as royal birds. Okay. They're all weighed all measured now. Well they can go in. There we go all right. We'll just walk around there. The little heart is racing I can feel it. You have to put an adult bird in first. Right. So the cygnets don't get lost. Yeah you can put that one in. All right. The heart rate was really high when I first picked it up and then actually started to calm down and now I'm seeing them swim happily away and within about a minute they'll be completely back to normal. Thank you David. That was unlike any other experience I've had before. Well I'm glad you see what the Swan Uppers do now and how we protect the swan population on the River Thames. I do. Thank you very much. Okay. Thank you. I'm leaving this part of the riverbank feeling as if I've earned my swan marker stripes. But all this talk of king and crown means that next the Thames will be bringing me down the famous royal processional route to Windsor. My journey along the Thames has so far been magical. It's so beautiful and there is a sort of combination of the peacefulness of it and the music of the wind and the leaves of the trees and just the old part of an engine as a boat comes up the river. Now I've arrived at a small town with a vast history. Windsor is famous for its imposing castle, the largest and oldest occupied castle in the world, where the Thames has always played an integral role. Since medieval times it has been a key part of any celebratory or ceremonial route. Henry VIII was particularly keen on traveling by water. In fact he had two barges called the Greyhound and the Lion and only the very best oarsmen were allowed to be employed on them. So in 1514 he set up the company of watermen and their sole job was to row the monarch. It's a company that still exists today employing 24 royal watermen and leading them is the king's barge master, also known as Chris. Well this is very nice. Beautiful day isn't it? It is. He is the seventh generation of his family to work on the Thames but the first to take on such a prestigious role. Sadly he couldn't pull enough strings to smuggle me onto the royal barge but this will do. Chris what do you do? As the king's barge master I am, if you like, the king's man on the river. If his majesty or other members of the royal family want to come out onto the river, if there's a ceremonial occasion, it's the royal watermen and indeed the barge master that's right on the back of the carriages for those occasions. So were you there for the coronation? I was there for the coronation. I had myself and there were 12 watermen formed up as part of the king's bodyguard so we were the only civilians in amongst those thousands and thousands of troops. But of course the king's coronation followed a deeply sad event and one that was hugely significant for Chris. What involvement did you have both during the queen's lifetime and reign and also at her funeral? Well during her majesty's reign I enjoyed many moments escorting her onto the river. With regards to funeral I had a very special role to play where I was passed the crown and I had to present it to the dean of Windsor and that was a very emotionally charged occasion but what a privilege to do that and what an experience. Gosh that is a really significant role. The Thames in particular, why do you think this river has a magic? It gets under your skin it becomes you know I think if you severed my arm you'd see old father's Thames come pouring out of it. This is part of my life I'm just fortunate enough to have earned some money from enjoying my time out here. It's fascinating to hear how Chris has played his part in some of the biggest historical moments in recent memory in his journeys down the river to Windsor but the castle isn't the only landmark to be found on these banks. There are plenty of historical highlights along the Thames and one of them over there is probably the most famous school in the world because Eton College has educated faith leaders, prime ministers, world leaders and future monarchs. The Prince of Wales was a pupil there. Quite difficult to get into but I've got a special pass. I've always been intrigued by this prestigious school with a seriously impressive alumni. Claire. Hey so nice to meet you. Really good welcome to Eton. So I'm very glad that history teacher Justin has made room in his timetable to give me a tour. So we're meeting here by the statue of the founder in his college in the historic centre. Eton was created in 1440 by King Henry VI. The school was built nice and close to Windsor Castle and on the banks of what would have been a very busy river. It started with just 70 scholars. Today it educates over 1300 boys. So we're coming now into the cloisters which is extraordinary. Many of whom have literally left their mark. Interesting graffiti. There's a lot of graffiti and essentially I think right from the word go we have got some dating back to the 17th century. Boys liked to let you know they'd been here and what's interesting is that some of them are dated so you've got Coltridge 1817, 1818, 1845. There are also some very famous names that have been to Eton. Well I mean Shelley and Orwell as writers. And how many prime ministers? I think it's 20. Oh my word. It's a lot. And two of them this century in David Cameron and Boris Johnson. I could stay for hours trying to make out all the names that have gone to school here over the centuries but there are more pressing historical matters that I need to discuss with Justin. I'm quite hungry and I know that there's a pudding that's particularly associated with Eton. There is Eton mess. You didn't think I'd come to Eton without scoffing, sorry learning about my favourite pudding. So here we are in Coltridge Hall and here's my colleague Mark making Eton mess. Oh hello. Which I'm assuming did originate here at Eton. It did but not in the way that people think. So there's a romantic vision that it was a pavlova in the 1920s that somebody's dog sat on which became a mess. The truth is mess is an old English word for a portion and the boys in the 18th century they would go out and buy a portion of fruit. So mess, a strawberry mess was just fruit and cream and a food writer called Michael Smith added in the crucial element of the meringue. I'm really liking the presentation of this. Enjoy. So you have to get everything on spoon together, that's part of the challenge. This is so good. It hits all the right sugar spots. What a treat and this delicious dessert is still dished up to the Etonians in the summer months. I'm very glad that Mark made extra today. Do you know the only problem with Eton mess? You can't just have one and I don't think they noticed that I stole another one. So I'm going to enjoy this because I need the sustenance. I've got one more stop to go on the River Thames. Sweet. Leaving Eton and its regal neighbour Windsor, my journey along this fascinating stretch of the river has brought me to the very last lock at Teddington where the river turns tidal and my time on it ends. There has been so much to enjoy and savour on the River Thames, whether it's exploring the land of wind in the willows, oh yes that's total, going swan upping and putting a signet back into the water. I have eaten Eton mess at Eton College and that is not an easy thing to say. It's so beautiful and wild in places and there's that feeling of it's just you on the water and you and your boat, that's better. By George I think she's got it. But most of all I think what I've realised about river people, okay I've got it, is they go with the flow because they have it. That's very satisfying and that's made it really really memorable, I've loved it.