經典手工皮具-植鞣革 【經典手工皮具】3-基礎皮革鼠標墊製作教程

Hi, I'm Chuck Dorsett from Weaver Leathercraft Supply. Let's make a simple mouse pad. Now, I say simple, that by no means looks simple. It's gorgeous, it's got some good weight to it. You'll be surprised how easy this is to do. Now, let's start simple though. We're going to use a 4 to 5 ounce natural veg tan leather. We're going to dye that. We're going to put a border stamp on it. We'll do a little antiquing, which will make that border stamp pop out. Then we'll put a top coat on it, give it a nice rich gloss. Then we're going to add some suede to that. That's the one thing that makes this feel like such a quality piece of leather work. Because we're going to use suede here for the same reason we use them on a saddle seat. Gives you a little grip that's going to sit on your desk and it's not going anywhere. Great project. So, first thing we need to do though, make a pattern. I've got it set up over here ready to go. So, cutting this pattern is going to be relatively simple. It's just an 8 by 8. Now, it's your mouse pad, you can go with any dimensions you want. But let's go with an 8 by 8 because that roughly seems to be an average. Now, I'm going to use just a basic piece of copy paper. Number of great materials out there for patterns. But let's keep this easy for now. So, I'm going to come out from my left side 8. Go to the other end of my paper. Mark at 8. Then I'm going to connect those two. So, that gives me 8 long, but I'm still 8 and a half wide. So, from this left side, I'm going to square, come out 8. And on the other end, square, come out 8. And let's connect the two. Now, our first trick with both cutting patterns and projects is this. I don't want to cut into my work. And I'll show you what I mean by that. So, here's my pattern. This is the line I want to cut. I want to put my straight edge on my work so I'm cutting away. If I put my straight edge outside of my work and I make a mistake, I'm going to cut right into my project. So, let's drop this in here. Make two quick cuts. Clean and easy. Very nice. And our second cut. Now, new blade each and every time. That will always make your work look better. But here's the trick there. The less pressure I have to add to it, the more control I have over the blade. All right. So, we're going to put round corners on this. Very nice detail. Very easy to do. But if I don't have a wing divider or a very nice set of templates, I can simply use a can of glue. And I can use anything from a penny up to a paint bucket lid and get beautiful round corners every time. So, let's get all four corners there. Very nice. Now, let's trim those. There we go. Nice. Well, good. Clean round corners. Very clean and consistent. Now, last thing. And this is a trick, too. I want to mark every piece of every pattern. This is a one piece, 8 by 8. Not very complicated. I want to have projects have 10 or 12 pieces to the pattern. I want to make sure everything's marked. So, I'm going to mark 8 inch by 8 inch. Now, it's pad. Nice. Let's cut some leather. So, easy pattern to cut. Looks good. Everything hinges on the pattern and we've got a good pattern. So, let's mark the leather with this. Now, I'm going to take my straightedge. I'm going to drop my pattern on my leather. Put my straightedge right across the middle. That's going to keep my pattern seated on my leather nicely. So, let's mark this out. And coming around that last corner. Let's remove our straightedge. Complete our lines. And our leather is marked. Now, I'm going to use my straightedge, my square, non-slip tape, right up to the edge. And I'm going to drop that on my line. Now, again, I'm working away from my work. So, if I make a mistake, I'm fine. Now, secondly, with my knife. This is a great knife for beginners, first and foremost. Because I'm going to keep my blade angle very low. It makes it a very safe knife. Because rarely will it ever jump my square. But secondly, if I need to make multiple passes. And I keep that blade angle low. Then the blade's going to automatically follow the previous path. And I'm going to get an absolutely perfect edge. So, let's cut the rest of this out. Including my round corners. Nice. Now, nice clean piece. All right, we're going to add a bevel and a groover to this. Neither absolutely necessary. But this is your edge work. And it's really going to dress up the edge of your leather. But secondly, we're going to use our groover as a guideline when we set a stamp. So, groover. I'm going to butt the shank right up against my leather. Take a little extra time in my round corners. Very nice. Now, let's go to our bevel. And our last edge and corner. Well, that's a nice looking piece. Okay, so, ready for a stamp. Let's go over here. We're going to put in a border stamp. That's very crisp, very consistent. And it will look gorgeous. So, what I mean when I say crisp and consistent. Is this. When I stamp this tool into my leather. I want to be able to see every detail. This is a veiner. We're going to use this in combination. With what's called a continuous mule's foot. But we're going to use it as a geometric tool. But it makes a very crisp, very clean border. So, first thing we're going to do. Let's case our leather. Now, I'm going to wet my leather. I'm going to wet the entire piece I'm working on. Even if I'm just working in a small corner. I'm going to wet the entire piece of leather. Because that will alleviate water marks and water lines. If I'm going to leave my leather natural. Or I'm going to go with a light colored dye. Now, we can start just about anywhere. But we put in a groove line. So, I'm going to use that groove line. As my border. Stamped by veiner right next to the edge of that. Now, too. Very nice. That's what I mean. I can see every detail in that tool. Now, I need to take my time here. I need to make these very consistent. But if I do take my time. I will be thrilled with the outcome. Now, let's get a few in here. Then, we're going to time lapse forward. Very nice. Notice I can see every detail. That looks great. It's going to look really good. As we continue around our border. And as we come in with our last few stamps. That is going to sit just beautifully. Very nice. That is a great border stamp, isn't it? All right. So, we're going to give this a couple hours to dry. Then, we're going to add some dye. So, we're dry. Ready to add some dye. Now, we're going to use an oil dye. It's a great dye. First and foremost. Notice how consistent the dye is. That was dyed. It's the same leather that I'm using here. It was dyed with the same color we're going to use here. The trick with oil dye though. Is to get as much coverage in your first pass as possible. Then, you can fill in the holes as you go. Now, it's going to leave it very light. But we're going to add an antiquing to this. And then, we're going to add an atom wax. And all of that is going to bring it down to a very rich medium brown. Now, another thing with the oil dye. I can go pretty heavy. Because I don't worry about the dye getting darker and darker. Now. Perfect. Nice and consistent. So, what I'm going to do. Is I'm going to leave that right where it is. I'm going to walk away. And I'm going to give it about an hour and a half. Maybe two hours to dry. Well, that is just coming out nicely. Look how very consistent my dye is. And we really didn't do anything special with it. Well, it's beautiful. But it's a little bit flat. We're going to take care of that. First off. I can see my stamped edge. But it doesn't pop out. So, let's use an antique. Now. This is thick. It's like a gel. So, what I want to do. Is I'm going to apply this two different ways. First off. I'm going to get a cotton rag. And I'm simply going to rub this onto my project. Because I don't want the antiquing. To override the dye color. But then I want to be able to sink it. Into my. My stamp area as well. Now. I've got the antiquing. On the main part of the body. I'm going to flip this around. I'm going to wipe off that excess. Now. I'm relatively consistent. Across the main body here. But notice I've got a lot of misses. In my stamp. So, I'm going to take a dauber. And I'll work that. Antique. Down into. My stamps. And let's get that last miss. Right there. Good. Now. I'm going to take our rag. And we're going to wipe off that excess. There we go. Now, again. It's darkened it just a little bit. Like I said. I went with a medium brown. Instead of anything darker. But now I can see. Every detail in those stamps. I still have a little miss. Here and there. I can certainly go back. Clean those up. And then my edge. Because I tend to get a little. Of the edge coat. Or the antiquing. On my edges. I'm going to clean those off. Maybe even add a little bit. Try to make that. A little more consistent. And let's buff that. Just a little bit more. That's nice. It's taking in. A nice rich color. So, again. We're going to need to let. The antiquing dry. Once we do that. Maybe an hour. Hour and a half. We're going to hit it. With a top coat. It's going to give it. Some good pop. And some nice depth. In our color. Nice. So, during my drying time. I clean this up. Now, as always. Plastic bag. To protect my tabletop. And an inexpensive. Piece of paper. In this case. Just packing paper. So, if I make a mess. Why? The whole thing up. Toss it. If I don't make a mess. Fold it. Save it for next time. Now. Isn't that gorgeous? Isn't that beautiful? We haven't even added. A top coat yet. That border. Well. It looks antique. That's exactly. What we're looking for. Now. Using this. As an example. This is just. This is the same color. Antique. In a medium brown. But over natural. Veg tan. Without a dye. Now. It's a pretty color. And I can see. A lot of detail here. But it just. Doesn't carry the richness. That this now does. All right. So. Cotton rag. This is a wax-based. Top coat. All I'm going to do. Is take a little bit. Roughly. Sparingly. And I'm going to cover my. Project. Evenly. Very nice. Now. Typically. I'll give that just a. Maybe a minute. A minute and a half to dry. So let's let that dry. For just a bit. All right. Just a little time to dry. Now. Let's start to buff this out. Now. It can go a little bit matte. To begin with. But as long as I buff. That is going to be beautiful. Well. That is just beautiful. That is coming out. So. Nicely. Look at that. That is a gorgeous. Piece of leather. And how easy. Thus far. Now. One more step. We're going to add. A suede backing. To give it some body. And some grip. And our project. Will be complete. Looks great. We're getting there. We're very close. To the end. Now. We're going to glue this. We're going to use. A contact cement. To glue this. To the backing. I've got a beautiful. Piece of burgundy suede backing. Now. With the contact cement. We're going to need glue. On both sides. So. We'll need it on my backing. And my face leather. I'm going to use an S18. It's a great glue. For leather. Now. First off. Leather is great for glue. Because it's very porous. But a contact cement. This is great. We carry it in the. In the eight ounce too. So. You don't have to get a quart. Or a gallon. Now. Here's one of the big tricks. About. About gluing a backing on. And cutting the backing. I've over cut. My backing piece. So. When I get my glue on that. And I lay this down. I don't worry about. Missing an edge. I have plenty of room. And I can see. All the way around. But here's the big thing. When I go to trim this. After it's. After it's glued. When I go to trim this. I'm actually going to use. The project. As my straight edge. To trim my suede. And it's going to look. So clean. It'll look like it's die cut. All right. So let's glue. Now. I'm going to cover the whole. Thing with glue. Because in. Over the years. I've seen. I don't want the middle. To ripple on me. I want this. To last decades. But here's the thing. With this glue. You need some. Good ventilation. So. Garage. Back deck. Or. Next to a window. With a good fan in it. And I've got some. Pretty good ventilation. In the shop here. Now. Here. On this piece. I'm going to run. Right to the edge. But I need to hold this down. Glue can be your biggest enemy. Or your best friend. I'm going to hold this down. Tightly. So I can go. Right to my edge. But I'm going to do my best. To keep my. Glue from getting on. To my paper. And thus. Moving my project. Now. I have glue. On the face of my project. Now. We've. We've dropped in. A top coat. So that's not. A huge issue. It'll simply roll off. But. Particularly. Over here. I don't want glue. Wrapping around on that. And the last. Couple of passes. Of glue. On my. Main body piece. Now. I'm going to jump over. To my suede. Now. On this. I just need to get. To within a half of an inch. Of the edge. So I really don't run the risk. Of getting glue. Over on my paper. But I do need to be careful. And there we go. We're filling in the last. Couple of spots there. Now. If you're working. On a larger project. This takes a little time. It's a little tedious. And it's not too bad. But if you're working. On a larger project. You can use a paint roller. And a paint tray. And your glue will go on. Just like paint. Very clean. And consistent. Little bit of time. In clean up. But overall. It will take no time. At all. To cover a larger piece. Alright. So let's give that. Well. I'd say about. Five to eight minutes. To dry. Then we're going to adhere. These together. So. Just about a little drying time. And this is ready to go. Now. I'm going to take this piece. Now. Again. I don't worry about missing. Because I got plenty of room. Let's just lay that in. Right there. And I'm going to press it down. And I'm going to grab the old. Trusty rolling pin. Which. Well. I took some heat for that. Well. You might too. But it's a great tool. Alright. So. Now. I'm going to roll this down. I'm going to pay special attention. To my edges. Because I'm going to be. Trimming those. And I want those. To have a good. Tight glue to them. Very nice. Looking good. Feeling good. One last step. Let's trim our edges. Now. Like I said. I'm going to use. My. Project. As my straight edge. But again. As long as I keep. My blade angle low. It won't be an issue. Then. Let's cut off. This last round corner. And there we are. Well. That is a gorgeous piece. Very clean. Very crisp. Rich color. In my dye. In my top coat. My antiquing. Just really sets off. The edge of that. Well. That's a fun project. I hope you use that. To go a hundred. Different directions. I hope you have a great time. With your mouse pads. And I hope every person. You give one to. Loves it. Good luck. With your projects. MING PAO CANADA // MING PAO TORONTO