登山 | 冒險 【最偉大的登山運動員——山峰先生】意大利 登山家 萊因霍爾德·梅斯納爾 MESSNER

我只喜歡盡我所能 盡我所有的能力 我認為你改變了爬山的方式 我不是完美 但如果我做一件事 我會盡我所能 很多人都不像我這樣 只有幾個人 但我喜歡這幾個人 他對爬山的觀念和想法 是人們從未想到的 人們以為無氧爬山 是無法做到的 他似乎是全球最偉大的爬山者 我認為爬山的整個發展 都涉及到 對不可能的心理措施 如果我們殺掉不可能 用技術裝備 用精緻的技術裝備 爬山就永遠不可能了 我知道無氧爬山是可行的 但沒有人知道 無氧爬山是可行的 1977年 Reinhold Messner 已經讓全世界驚訝 第一次爬上無氧爬山 8000米高的山頂 他登上無氧爬山 無氧面罩的低壓飛機 為了Messner 30,000米的生存測試 為了兩次爬山 他將會成為 現今最偉大的爬山者 最偉大的 最具革命性的爬山者 看爬山是個笑話 爬山無氧爬山 是很有趣的 我從來不會來爬山 爬山無氧爬山 對我來說並不重要 對我來說並不挑戰 我爬山爬山 爬高度爬山 是為了自我瞭解 爬山不重要 爬山可能是必須的 當希拉里和丹心 第一次爬上無氧爬山 但在這過程中 在馬來西亞 在卡拉科隆 在巴塔哥尼亞 整個山區都被探索了 人類的世界 不需要探索它們 但我自己需要探索 如果我把一些 關鍵的技術 放在我和山上 我永遠無法 自我瞭解 自我探索 Messner並不認為 爬山是一種獲勝 他認為爬山 是在尋找 他稱之為 冒險的心 在尋找不明的東西 在一個世界 在技術上 無法輕易地 消滅不明的東西 消滅冒險 但他幾乎 在伊維斯山上 釋放了一座 非常強大的 不明的 零下四十度的 溫度 而雷霆 敲打了山上 周圍的人 Messner回到 三十六小時後 在風暴中 兩晚 在死亡區域 沒有氧氣 他的爬山夥伴 Peter Habler 已經獨自 回到Camp 2 他幾乎 被迷失在冒險 他肯定 會死亡 Habler 開始思考 爬上伊維斯山 沒有氧氣 他的疑惑 越來越嚴重 他跟一個 剛從頂峯 當第一次 頂峯派對 回來的時候 Robert Schauer 告訴我 他有時 會把口罩 脫下來 他的氧氣口罩 他完全 他很焦躁 他不知道 Messner和Habler 離開後 知道嚴重的 高度疾病 腦腫瘤 腹瘤 和致命的血栓 是爬山者 在遠低的高度 經常遇到的困難 腦損壞 甚至瘋狂 都無法控制 航行攝影師 實際上 無法繼續 迫使Messner 親自拍攝這部電影 伊維斯山的歷史上升 Reinhold 我第一次到伊維斯山 拍攝 可能是地球上 最曝光的地方 到迪比特 然後左邊 到尼泊爾 我拍攝了那部分 Reinhold不相信我 他只是在拍攝 然後我到他那裡 他就繼續拍攝 在短時間內 他到達頂峯 他就坐在那裡 旁邊的中國航班 我只記得看到他 在最後一刻 我心想 我們會成功的 痛苦變得嚴重 我最初的恐懼 是我會走失 這件事很糟糕 但我非常幸運 因為在上坡 我做了整個拍攝 還有拍攝 我們有很高的陽光 照射在雲層上 所以陽光 是從雲層 還有從天空 還有從雪 我一直戴著眼鏡 拍攝 在頂峯上 我沒有任何問題 我沒有感覺到 任何東西 在下坡 我正常的走下來 我在想 也許我失去了眼睛 因為我身處 高度高處 過了一段時間 我們意識到 那裡應該是雪地 因為痛苦很嚴重 下個日子 我只能看到 Peter的陰影 所以我們不應該 走在雪地上 我只能說 Peter 停下來 因為如果我失去你 我也不知道要去哪裡 世界會對他們 和Edmund Hillary 和Tenzin Gorge相比 但Messner會 描述這個對比 他們的目標 是站在頂峯上 我的目標 是靠靈性 和道德的自我審查 我們都成功了 Hillary和她的頂峯 我和我的自我 兩年後 Messner會嘗試 登上Everest 單獨靠吸氧 1984年 德國電影導演 Werner Herzog 製作了一部電影 關於Messner 名為 《山谷的黑暗》 在電影中 Messner可能給予了 他帶來登山的 傳統的行程 試圖登上這座山 或兩者 會有載載 一噸或兩噸的裝備和備用 會由大量成員製造 設置高度營 有多個營 和攀爬者 從營到營 最後會形成一座大壁 最強的 到達頂峯 我們反過來 爬像阿爾邦人一樣 如果必須 爬到岩石面 或穿過沙漠 但大部分時間 我們都會自由地爬 沒有繩子 我帶來了一個發明 可能 只有 清潔爬山的哲學 才能實現 在同一段時間 來自約瑟米地谷 我認為 哲學家 湯姆·弗洛斯特 羅爾·羅賓斯 他們在同一段時間 明白 我們必須改變一些東西 他們在約瑟米地谷 我當時也不知道 約瑟米地谷 在歐洲並不知名 我也不知道 羅爾·羅賓斯 湯姆·弗洛斯特 或伊萬·史雷納特 他們是這段時期的英雄 我做到了 我明白了 這與不可能有關 很早的時候 我明白了 如果我們破壞了不可能 用技術的手段 爬山就會消失 因為爬山 是一種複雜性 在我們腦海裡的不可能 因為有無限的可能性 去改變不可能 在我們腦海裡 只在我們腦海裡 因為外面沒有改變 沒有改變 它就會消失 最好的爬山者 他們總是可以說 這是不可能的 之前所有人都說 這是不可能的 但當有人說 這是不可能的 這部電影 關於年輕爬山者 挑戰不可能的 在猶太地區 可能是關於 Messner和Dolomites 5000公里遠的 在北意大利 在60年代 我開始做大獨自爬山 在67年 但很少 68年 在69年 我最好的狀態 是在岩石和冰上爬 在阿爾卑斯 我做了阿爾卑斯最困難的 獨自爬山 獨自 獨自爬山 所有爬山者 都很不滿 他們說 你幾個星期就死了 你做的太瘋狂了 可能年輕人都在跟隨你 他們都會死 這個夏天 他們也做了 最困難的 融合岩石路 在Mont Blanc 獨自爬山 最快的 需要三天 傳言說 這條路很困難 所有人都會摔倒 我獨自爬山 我做了七個小時 我爬山 像魚在游泳 鳥在飛 至少我不會 做到今天 因為我的能力不存在 我做的是不同的事 高度是不同的事 需要力量 需要強大的心理準備 但爬山 並不困難 就像Dolomites 或Yosemite Valley 技術上的爬山 可能在民國 比較容易 但對Messner來說 心理上的挑戰 比他面對的 物理上的挑戰 當我做了 Himalaya Peak的獨自爬山 我有必要 向自己展示 我能夠 跟夥伴和朋友 獨自爬山 技術上 並不困難 尤其是高度 這只是心理上的問題 是心理上的問題 我需要長時間 學習 留在高處 獨自爬山 毫不害怕 尤其是我獨自爬山 獨自爬山成為了 我的必要 因為我有問題 獨自爬山 不容易 獨自爬山 四天 在山上 在60年代 當我是一個 獨自爬山的人 獨自爬山的粉絲 或者說 獨自爬山的獨自爬山人 我總是明白 獨自爬山 我知道自己可以 因為我有能力 但對我來說 獨自爬山 是很難的 整天都在爬山 睡在牆上 然後再爬山 因為當晚 我怕了 在那裡獨自爬山 在高處的洞穴上 我害怕了 因此 所有的活動 都需要獨自爬山 我獨自做了一件事 獨自爬山 只有在你身體狀態 精神狀態 才能做到 如果你害怕 就不應該去做 我需要很長時間 去學習 去做 因為我有一個小問題 就是獨自爬山 會有困難 但不是困難 而是因為 我沒有任何人 告訴我 我們今天做得很好 看著他的眼睛 他會明白 我們在做什麼 是非常危險的 所以危險只有一半 如果你分配 危險就是另一個字 如果你分配 爬山的快樂 是雙倍的快樂 如果你獨自爬山 你無法分配任何東西 你必須獨自處理 不知去哪 不知天氣 不知睡覺的位置 你必須帶著食物 你必須帶著帳篷 你必須帶著睡袋 你必須帶著 尤其是燃料 汽油或油 去融化雪 你必須帶著重重的睡袋 你需要一天 如果你需要兩天 你必須帶著重的睡袋 如果你去野餐 在你不知道 發生什麼事的地方 因為是第一次爬山 你可能要計算十天 你可以想像 睡袋有多重 雪也許很深 你必須帶著睡袋 所以是兩回事 我對爬山 就像克拉克威爾說的 我喜歡他 在他的書中 爬山有關於自創 你創造了山路 你創造了爬山的方式 加上獨自爬山的心理挑戰 和無汽水的身體挑戰 你會明白 他自我審查的深度 和他的成就的深度 有人說 他們曾經爬過一座獨自爬山 但其他人也爬過 這有很大的差別 心理上 你獨自爬山 這就是他想要看到的 那是怎樣的 Ed Veaster是唯一一個 爬過世界上六高峯 沒有使用無汽水 爬山沒有無汽水 是非常非常困難的 這完全改變了 爬高峯會發生的事情 當你爬山有無汽水 你會保持溫暖 你會更清楚地思考 你會更快地移動 沒有無汽水 你必須強迫自己 繼續在高峯上移動 我認為這證明瞭 Messner的身體狀態 是相當正常的 他並不是一個 神奇的生物 但他有一種精神 把他推得 遠遠超過 他應該能做到的事情 當你身處死亡範圍 超過24,000公尺 你的身體 會慢慢地消失 你正在爬上 一段長時間的高峯 缺乏無汽水 意味著你思考得慢 不夠快去處理 你會慢慢地 失去意識 然後就會回頭 當你身處高峯 沒有無汽水 一段長時間 在高峯上 如果你看到 某個人 或許他就是這個人 你會看到自己 思考得非常非常慢 他需要很大的力量 去做一段短時間的遊戲 你的思考過程 會變得慢 你的動力會變得壓抑 我意思是 你只要穿上鞋子 就要花20分鐘去思考 然後再花半小時去做 然後你就會疲憊 在Cortina,意大利 Dolomites的爬行中心 導遊Mario De Bona 剛從無汽水的高峯 在7000米的高峯下 你會很難呼吸 因為有少量無汽水 你必須呼吸 所以你必須 集中精神 呼吸 所以 可能最大的問題 是睡眠 因為晚上 你無法入睡 因為你醒來 你必須呼吸 你必須睡眠 你必須呼吸 你必須睡眠 1980年夏天 Reinhold Mesner回到了Everest 試探無法想像的 爬山單獨自行 沒有無汽水 去到Everest 我需要三星期的氣候調整 足夠了 氣候調整得很好 我做了第一個攻擊 在7000米的高峯下 雪太濕了 太危險了 雪滾滾的滾到我膝蓋 我怕雪滾滾 所以我回來了 我決定 不要留在Everest 因為太危險了 我去了北部 蒙特利爾岸邊 無法到達 我爬了7000米高峯 去調整氣候 我回來了 在8月中間 天氣改變了 變得冷了 天氣也變好了 所以我決定 要離開 兩天的寒冷天氣 因為我知道 現在的雪開始變硬了 我開始在 Advanced Base Camp 下午一點 我第一天爬得很高 爬到7000米 很厲害 爬得很高 我也有非常好的 雪狀況 從那裡開始 雪狀況變得 非常困難 我需要一整天 爬400米 因為我需要找路 而不是每次 我都能找到 要往左一點 向右一點 速度通常是 爬高峯的關鍵 越快爬上去 越好 因為 爬高峯 是不可能的 但你必須 同一天 爬到半路 如果你爬得很快 爬到高峯 肯定是最後 爬到高峯 但我知道 我會找到高峯 因為你爬上去 爬上去 所以你爬上去 但爬到半路 我需要腳印 否則 我不會有 最小的機會 爬到高峯 那時候 有一點雪 有些雲 有些洞 我能看到 那些雪山 所以我回頭看 腳印還在那裡 否則爬到半路 很危險 但我能找到 所以我找到帳篷 三天爬上去 兩天爬下去 五天 我爬得很快 我爬得比想像中快 Tom Hornbein 是美國第一艘 航空母艦 前往Everest的成員 在外面的雜誌中說 就像Copernicus Messner 創造了全新的 看他的世界的方式 他把登山 變成了我們所知的 John Krakauer 稱Messner的 1980年的 Everest獨自爬山 是全球最大的 登山項目之一 爬山社群 當Messner 做了Everest獨自爬山時 他是全球最出名的 爬山者 他證明瞭 人們以為他 直到那一刻 但這件事 真的成為了一塊石頭 這是這個人 做出的一件事 這件事 很可能 再也不會再做 也不可能再做 他在那裡 把一切放在一起 我認為 Everest獨自爬山 是全球最大的 成就之一 Messner會繼續 成為全球八千公里 爬山 不需要吸塵 Messner長大 在Vilnius村 在南哲羅 他和他的兄弟Gunter 開始從小就一起爬山 我們是兄弟 爬山的朋友 我們在亞洲 一起做了最瘋狂的事 爬山的過程中 我們走遠了 從黑暗的 南哲羅山洞 跑出來 It was not a nice world in which we came up My father coming home from the war and being unhappy with most of the Germans understandably He was not a German He was an Italian The South Tyroleans German-speaking Italians 86% of the South Tyroleans voted for Hitler They were willing to leave this home place this beautiful country and to go northeast Incredible But anyway, they decided So they became all Germans And most of them They were thinking they'd do something good Positive And on the end They were desperate They lost their young years They knew that they did wrong They knew it was the most terrible Political system ever And I think also that My father brought us to climb He was a climber before the World War Not a good one But he was able to climb With a few other guys in the same valley They died in the war He was alone after the war So he had nobody to climb with And he, to forget the war To remember only the positive side Of the 30s Of the climbing period He went with us to climb But we had not his biography We had another biography You have to imagine We had no car We had bicycles later In the valley There was no football place No, not even a swimming pool I didn't learn to swim up to now No swimming pool in the whole valley So we had only the trees And the mountains And we had this possibility To climb the mountains And the father let us go When I did my first climbs I was especially amazed And fascinated by the fact That I could see a much bigger world Living in a narrow valley And seeing the trees and the rocks above And seeing a little bit of the sky Where the clouds came And disappeared a few minutes later This was my world And standing the first time As a five-year-old child On a 3,000-meter peak And seeing a huge world A new cosm I understood this is great The world is great But there was a horizon against somewhere And I was beginning to seek To know what's behind the next horizon Messner will tell you He survived a lifetime On the cutting edge of climbing Because of instincts learned in the Dolomites From the age of five I am not better and not weaker And not more intelligent than the others There are much better climbers than me But I had 15 years Between five and 20 Where I could approach Easily, naively the mountains And then I learned everything I had this instinct Which I got as a small boy And I think this is the only thing I have more than the others That I was lucky, lucky They brought me in the mountains And I became a mountain climber And not only that I was Liking to go to climb I was so fascinated by climbing I was dreaming about climbing With eight years old, with nine years old I was seeking the whole winter For the summer times To go again up to these rocks And when we were 15, 16 We did the first ascents Really first ascents New lines, new routes He and his brother Gunter Climbed together from their earliest childhood But Gunter's death On their first Himalayan climb Has haunted Mesner all his life The Nanga Parbat situation of 70 The worst I had in my life I think that if 1,000 climbers Would be in the same trap Maybe one would escape If you take the 1,000 best climbers Of all times If I would be in again in the same trap I would not survive Because I had my chance and I survived On July 27, 1970 Reinhold and Gunter achieved The seemingly impossible summit Of the Rupal face Of 26,600-foot Nanga Parbat in Pakistan The highest rock and ice wall in the world But Gunter suffered severe altitude sickness And during their descent He was swept away by an avalanche After Reinhold had left him To search for a viable route down Do you suppose that because you two brothers Were so close Your brother might have died in your place And might that have given you A different attitude towards death I have a different attitude Towards death in general Because of mountain climbing And also perhaps Because of my brother's death Even though I still have the feeling That he's still alive And not just in dreams But say when I look at the mountains We climb together And that welded us together so intensely That we can never be separated again I don't have the feeling That he died in my place I have the feeling that I myself Died on that expedition How did you break the news to your mother I needed long years to Not to digest To live with the fact That my brother died on Nanga Parbat It was my responsibility Or my co-responsibility Surely Parbat was also his And still now I'm living with it But I'm living in harmony with it I understand it and it's a fact And my brother is still living with me I speak sometimes In half sleeping with him And I imagine what he would do now What we would do together Maybe not, yes Know anything about Mesner And you're not surprised to learn That he returned to Nanga Parbat Eight years later To make his first solo attempt On an 8,000-meter peak He did it alone On a very difficult route And also it was an idea he had And had tried to do several times And he went And he at some points and felt Well I don't have the mental strength To do this and he'd go home And then he went again And he failed and he went home I don't know that everybody realizes I mean I don't even know How many times he tried each peak Before he got up The thing that makes him good is his judgment He's got so much experience He's been in the mountains so much And he's tried these peaks so many times That he's got good judgment And that allowed him to eventually Get up them and also to get up them And still be alive He finally I think on the third trip To Nanga Parbat He had his act together mentally And he did this climb So that's probably why It's something he had thought about for years And he finally did it If I speak about history There is no doubt this is Sir Ernest Shackleton He is my hero He was the greatest of the adventurer Of the modern times Not speaking about the Greece times And the Roman times But I don't like the classical heroes I like much more Broken down people like Shackleton He never succeeded But how he failed is great From the modern people I think the most important Mountaineer of the last 50 years Is Chris Wannington no doubt He did so many things In a long period Between the 50s up to the last years He is still climbing very well I'm of an older generation And I mean quite honestly I don't put myself Remotely in the same class as Messner I mean I think he is arguably The greatest climber of all time I look for beautiful places And this I bought many years ago 20 years ago I bought it for 30,000 dollars The whole place Nobody was willing to buy it Everybody was thinking This is breaking down This castle had no value And I got it And I needed a few years And I put in all my money In this period to restore it And afterwards it became my home place Messner's castle Is located in northern Italy On the eastern edge of the Dolomites Outside of the lovely town of Merano Known for its healing mineral springs When my children had to go to school We decided, my wife and myself We will move to Merano In the winter time In the school months For 10 months That they can go to school nearby And in this moment I decided by myself To handle this castle I will open it to the public And it should be self-sufficient And it was self-sufficient the first year It's not costing me anything One focus of Messner's life now Lies across the Dolomites Near the famous ski and rock Climbing capital of Italy Cortina On a mountain pass Called Monte Rit In this period of my life I would like to bring home The heritage of mountaineering Of climbing This was a fortification In the first world war Built by the Italians And afterwards Nobody came anymore here Up to 89 when I came And I found this And said this is a good place For a Dolomite museum Now I think the people They need more background information But not only scientific information They need especially emotions To understand why the mountains are important What are the values of the mountains Like I will speak about the silence About the emptiness And these values are lost Inside in the museum You see a different face of the mountains And with this I hope that the people are going out of the museum And their eye changed And they will go And see the mountains in a different way And their respect for them will grow These glass houses are crystals And the architect Faccio Who is the architect of this museum Had the idea to change these crystals And they should remember Also that we are in the mountains And around this museum We have 360 degrees Of the most beautiful mountains Of the Dolomites Which are the most beautiful mountains of the world To the others What is our heritage But also the heritage of everyone I can only thank With this new approach This is more than a book It's a different approach than a book In a book I can tell stories People can read it or not read it But here they are forced to have emotions And I will combine this Every year new combination I'm only the combiner I'm not an artist I'm not able to do a painting I'm not able to do music With the combination I found out that the people are going in And they go out and they say I understand now I know now But they know with the heart And not with the head There is a film A film done in the 30s With the title The Call of the Mountains But I'm not believing that mountains are calling Mountains are silent and quiet And this is the arena of the loneliness What is up there I don't hear you sit naked before us Vulnerable I'd like to ask you a very simple question And just as naked What is the point of all this I don't know I've never asked myself why I do it That goes for the other crazy things I've done in my life I wouldn't know the answer I have the feeling every now and then That I can write on those large rock faces That are three or four thousand meters high Like a teacher writes on a blackboard With chalk But I don't just write lines Imaginary lines I live those lines I also have the feeling that afterwards Those lines are still there Even if I'm the only one who can feel them See them Because I lived them And nobody else will ever be able to see them But they're there And they'll be there for all time Messner gave a similar description of climbing Nineteen years later A climb is only there for me If I climb up a wall There is a line Before, during and afterwards And this line is really done But afterwards you see nothing on the wall I see in my inner eye my line This is a huge design Maybe the biggest paintings We do on the high faces On Aconcagua South Face On Everest South West Face But we leave nothing We leave really nothing Because the next generation can come And they don't see a line on Everest And on Nanga Parbat and so on And I think that The biggest possibility on this world We have is to create the nothing But to create something, the nothing So the next generations They have the world still empty And they can fill it up But if they again leave nothing Forever The human beings are forced To be creative and to do something To bring them in With all their abilities And so they have a strong sense in living If you are there And the whole world is prepared It's much more important To have nothing And to create something But if we create something real On the end The next generations can do nothing Because everything is done And I think we invent the world In each generation again And we live it step by step The life is lived step by step Only this moment during the step The way is there Afterwards there is nothing The wind is bringing away my footprints And we don't never know exactly Where this way is bringing The intersection of life and adventure Is never far away In a conversation with Reinhold Messner A profession you learn You learn in school You learn in university And afterwards you handle it And you get maybe also diploma And you can work with it Adventuring is totally different You can only learn it doing it And you are not never a professional Because you never know everything Because you need in adventure The unknown And if there is unknown You cannot know to handle it So you are faced in each adventure Again with new problems And on the spot you have to decide And do it To survive, to die, to handle it And for this is only a condition You are in an adventure condition You have the heart of an adventurer During doing it I am having a huge problem From all these climbers of this generation I came out as a known person In a large public In a larger public And not all of them But many of them After a while understood They have only one chance To compete To use me And it's very easy to use me In a bad and in a good way And most of them They became very weak When a ghostwriter came Or a manager came and said Let me handle it I handle your person I make you famous I make you rich We do it selling your figure Peter's figure, Fuxen's figure, whoever On the shoulders of Messner When Peter Habler published his account Of their 1978 Everest climb He described Messner As having completely broken down After his snow blindness set in He was completely confused, Habler wrote And was suffering hallucinations Completely helpless And reliant on my guidance I can carry many people But it's not possible if I carry them And they shit on me And this is happening normally They never climbed together again And Messner still has not forgiven him I try to be very, very truthful Also to myself So I'm telling things Which many people do not They don't like to read I'm not here for telling What the people like to hear Or to listen to or to read I'm telling what's my experience What is my view I'm very critical with the climbing scene Because I see that many things I don't like So I say it There is no heroic man on this world We are all normal people And our possibilities are very, very small And because our possibilities are very small We are running 100 meters In the best of the world In 9 seconds and something There are horses that are going double as quick The polar bears, they can cross the Arctic Ocean Without a tent, without sleeping bags Without a cooker, without GPS Without anything They are much better than we are The certain animals can climb up Vertical overhanging walls Without anything They go up We are really not able to do any great thing And for this fact Because we are not big Our skin is not thick We have no long hairs against the cold Our lungs are nothing There are birds that can fly at 11,000 meters In a huge velocity Because their lungs are able to handle it We are not able to handle 8,000 meters For a few hours, but maximum We are really not great built But because we are so big in many sides We invented our intelligence Especially because we were afraid 100,000 years ago, 200,000 years ago When the lions and the tigers And the polar bears came And human beings had to learn to handle it And the fires all over So they learned to become intelligent slowly Through fear and the fact That they were not intelligent Not able in an animalistic way And with the intelligence We are able to handle everything And we became the strongest group of animals On this world There is no stronger reality Than mountains or wilderness generally This is reality The storm, the rockfall, the difficult ground But going to Everest Or going also on a hill like this You see and you feel You smell the danger And this is there The danger is always there You can hear it when the lightning is coming And you learn quite quickly In your life as a small boy Or as a small girl If you go in the wilderness A few steps, again a few steps back How to handle it And this is great I think that up to my last days I will go if the time is there Out of the mountains, out of the wilderness To be in reality, in the real reality It's very strange that I'm seeking For getting older I know that it's not so easy to be old Still now I have only a few problems With one leg And my memory is not anymore Like it was before So I feel the fact that I'm getting older and older But getting older Means also to get freer It's not more necessary To go into an expedition To have a success I did everything what I had to do There is no famous climbers on the world Because climbing is an activity Which nobody is following It's not football or rugby Or golf or tennis We are quite unknown But it was my way to order The world for myself And it was my way to express myself I needed the possibility To express myself Not with words I was always going up a rock wall And we are on the world More or less to express ourselves And to order our own world And more we cannot do in this life It's not important What we have at the end It's only important What we have done But not what we have And I'm still functioning this way I'm willing to spend everything For a project All my money All my time All my energy All my enthusiasm To do it And afterwards I can say It was not necessary But it was great