Daiba- From Defensive Forts to Innovation Hub - Dive in Tokyo

This time on Dive in Tokyo, we visit the waterfront district of Daiba. This area used to be underwater. Today, it's a tourist destination, combining leisure with entertainment. But its original purpose was to protect the capital from attack by sea. Its modern makeover is the result of a push to develop a high-tech telecommunications hub in the 1980s. The transit system that was installed as part of that vision is still in use today. There are also local hangouts filled with the warmth of everyday life. Daiba's accessibility as a gathering place is now driving its transformation into the city of the future, where technological innovation leads the way. Join us as we explore the ever-evolving Daiba area. Daiba is a district on an island of reclaimed land in Tokyo Bay. Two train lines connect it to the city center in less than 30 minutes. And there's also an international cruise terminal nearby, making it a convenient tourist hub. Hello, I'm Alice Gordanker. I've just arrived at Daiba Station. I've been here many times before with my family, for leisure and shopping. But I don't know much about Daiba's history or how it developed into what we see today. So this time, I'm here to learn. Alice is originally from Michigan and has lived in Japan for over 25 years. She's a journalist who writes about Japan. Alice once worked at the Port Authority of New York and New Jersey. So she's very interested in how port areas around the world have developed. Daiba boasts pleasant seaside views featuring unique architecture, statues, sculptures and more. The laid-back coastal vibe has made it a popular spot for visitors from around Japan and abroad. It's huge! Since 2012, this square has been home to a giant statue of a sci-fi robot from a hit anime series. It's a must-see for fans of Japanese pop culture. What's your impression of Daiba? Honestly, this place is just amazing so far, you know? Seeing something like this, it's my first time obviously. It's just amazing how there's something like this, just like here. It's just, I don't know, it's just really great. How do you take a selfie with something so big? Believe it or not, the Daiba area used to look quite different. Tomikawa Takeshi has been studying the history of this area for over 20 years. He takes us to a former island at the end of the beach. What kind of place is this? About 170 years ago, the Edo Shogunate built a dam to protect the Edo Castle. They built a dam in the middle of the sea to prevent foreign ships from entering. In 1853, U.S. Commodore Matthew Perry arrived at Tokyo Bay with a fleet of ships and demanded that the Shogunate end Japan's self-imposed isolation and open up their borders. Gripped by a sense of crisis, the Shogunate prepared for Perry's promised return by building six artillery batteries in the bay in a little over a year. The fortified islands, known as Daiba, are what later gave the area its name. Is this real? Yes, it's an object. These are all 360-degree cannons. The battery's perimeter mound was fortified with over 30 cannons so that they could fire in every direction. We're here now. The area painted in rat color is where the sand has settled, and the water depth is shallow. That means it's easy to fill up. We calculated the distance from the Edo Castle and the distance from where foreign ships could enter, such as 3 kilometers, and built Daiba here. The battery's interior was also designed for defense. The area around here is high. When the enemy fires from the other side, it's easy to be targeted from the same height. It's easy to be spotted. That's why we've made a dent here. The center is about 10 meters lower than the perimeter mound. This is where they set up warehouses for ammunition and a rest area for soldiers. To enhance defensive capabilities, they incorporated Western fortification techniques to design the configuration of artillery batteries. That's right. Before the six batteries were constructed, Tokyo Bay had been protected by forts that lined the coast. But Commodore Perry had easily broken through, so the government incorporated Western military science. Because the waters near Edo Castle were shallow, there were limited navigable routes available for ships. The placement of the batteries was based on these routes to effectively block approaching ships. So the Edo Shogunate ensured that the batteries were not used. I think that was the role of Daiba. Today, only two of the batteries remain in recognizable form. One of them has been turned into a public park that commemorates the history of this area. So looking from here, I can see that next to the island we just toured, there are two other islands. These two long, narrow islands are closely connected to the development of Tokyo's port. Kawashima Yukihisa and Shinohara Hirosuke are well-versed in how the port of Tokyo came to be. I used to work at the New York New Jersey Port Authority. Oh, I see. The Tokyo Port and the Shimaikou. That's right. So we're a family. Can you tell us a little bit about these two islands? This is a large port that was built in the 1930s, when the Tokyo Port was used as a modern port. So it wasn't built right after the opening of the port, but in the 1930s? Yes. At the time of the opening of the port, the Yokohama Port was already open as an international trade port. The Tokyo Port was in the position of an auxiliary port to the Yokohama Port, so the Tokyo Port was not being maintained. The Great Kanto Earthquake was the trigger for the Tokyo Port to be maintained. The 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake devastated Tokyo and Yokohama. The disruption of land transport highlighted the importance of water transport. So the Tokyo government and others started working on constructing a full-scale port. As development progressed, traffic in and out of the port increased. Breakwaters were installed to enhance safety for ships. Then, during Japan's post-war economic recovery in the 1950s, some were adapted for a new purpose. I see. They made it easier for ships to enter. As the port grew, one of the old artillery batteries was dismantled to clear the shipping lane. Then, several more were removed to make way for the expansion of the pier. Massive quantities of sediment were excavated from the seabed to accommodate large ships. That sediment was used to fill in other parts of the bay. And so, by around 1970, the present-day Daiba area had mostly taken shape. So, how did the area develop so much? It all started with the Tokyo Teleport Project. Teleport? I know about teleport. The concept was to stimulate urban and economic development by providing a business park with high-speed, state-of-the-art communication capability. In the 1980s, the U.S. and other developed countries came up with the concept for teleports, centralized communication hubs equipped with parabolic dishes and other equipment to facilitate the flow of information. Japan followed suit, developing its own vision for a teleport. Plans were set in motion to build one in the Daiba area, which had plenty of space for facilities while also being close to the city centre. This is a highly advanced intelligent building with high-quality communication capabilities. We wanted to show people how we could build a city in the future. So we organized an event called the World City Expo. The World City Expo Tokyo was scheduled to be held in 1996. In the lead-up to the event, venues were under construction and exhibitors were being approached. But the collapse of Japan's bubble economy in the early 90s led to a re-evaluation of the costly teleport project. The expo was cancelled, and companies that had planned to move into local office buildings started backing out one after the other. How did Daiba become such a popular tourist destination? One of the main reasons for Daiba's popularity was that Fuji TV moved to this area. In 1997, the broadcaster's new headquarters was completed and quickly became a local landmark. The arrival of a TV station known for its hit dramas and variety shows put Daiba in the spotlight as a trendy hotspot. We used the land that we originally planned to use as an office for amusement and commercial facilities. It's a city of amusement now. The teleport project included the creation of the Yurikamome transit system, which utilized the cutting-edge technology of the time. You can see I'm sitting at the very front of the train, and there's no driver. This train has an automatic drive system. The first time I rode this train 25 years ago was with my kids. It seemed so futuristic then. Oh, oh, oh, I see. We're about to get on the big loop. The train makes a loop as it approaches the Rainbow Bridge, which connects the city center to Tokyo's artificial waterfront areas. There are cars running right next to the train. Wow, the beach, Daiba, where we saw the cannons. I was just there. Now you can really see how much Daiba has developed. We've got shopping centers, hotels, office buildings. This is a way to see the modern side of the city. To learn more about the Yurikamome's past, we meet with a company representative. One of the defining features of the Yurikamome are its tires. Rubber tires can handle steep inclines, allowing the train to climb up to the deck of the Rainbow Bridge, which is roughly 30 meters higher than the tracks. The Yurikamome was said to carry air I was curious to see what it was like. So many people came to see it. How many people have come to see it now? About 20 times. 20 times? How do you want the city to change? I have an image of the future, but I think Daiba's characteristic is that it has a nostalgic atmosphere. I hope Daiba will continue to develop while keeping that in mind. As the teleport project was being reassessed in the 1990s, Daiba started undergoing development as a residential area. It welcomed schools, parks, and other community-focused amenities, and today, over 5,000 residents call it home. Hisatome Yukiko has been living here since those early days. I heard you know a lot about the city. I've lived here since the beginning. Since the beginning? Yes. This is a nightclub. Oh, a nightclub. It must be nice to drink while enjoying the sea. Yes. Actually, I run a restaurant here. Really? Yes. Let's go. Everything around here is residential? Yes, everything around here is residential. It doesn't feel like a restaurant, does it? No, it doesn't. It's here. Is it a restaurant? Yes. Please come in. Wow, that's great. Thank you. Excuse me. Yukiko runs a restaurant together with Hiroko, who's been with her since the beginning. We run a restaurant together. Oh, really? I'm Hisatome Hiroko. Nice to meet you. Yukiko originally worked at a Chinese restaurant in central Tokyo. She and Hiroko decided to set up their own food truck in the newly reclaimed Daiba area. They've had a front-row seat to the town's evolution over the years. Why did you decide to set up a restaurant in Akechi's Oei Daiba? The driver can park his car and take a break. That was the condition. Since there was nothing there, I decided to park my car there. You thought there was a chance. Yes. This is the first car when I started. It's small. It's really small. You just set up a table and a chair. That's right. That's how you started. There's nothing there. I worked while watching the Rainbow Bridge from start to finish. You were saving it. Yes, in the middle. There was a Fuji TV sphere below. It went up little by little. You've seen all the changes in this town. Yes, I've seen it all. From the grassy areas. They moved to their current location about 20 years ago. The place is usually bustling with local business people and residents. Sekiguchi Yasushi, who moved to Daiba six years ago, dines here once a week. I'm Sekiguchi. Nice to meet you. Nice to meet you. Why Odaiba? I could see the sea and the sky. That's why I moved here. There are many people at the weekend, but there aren't many people on weekdays, so it's a good place to relax. Here it comes. Wow. It looks so good. Really classic taste. It's great. This is my favorite restaurant. For our last stop, we visit a spot where we can get a glimpse of Daiba's innovative spirit. The Japanese Museum of Science and the Future is a place where you can experience cutting-edge science and technology and think about what kind of future you want to draw with it. This science museum opened its doors in 2001. It's become a popular local attraction for its hands-on exhibits centered on cutting-edge technology. Hippo, hippo. Oh, come on. Yeah, that's right. Good dog. Visitors can even take part in ongoing research. Here, participants enjoy a virtual dining experience featuring food made by a 3D printer and share their thoughts with the researchers. At any given time, the museum has various ongoing science research projects directly related to our everyday lives. Hello. This is the future accessibility lab where we develop support technology for visually impaired people. They're currently working on an AI-powered suitcase. It's equipped with sensors and cameras to help people who are visually impaired navigate their surroundings with peace of mind. OK, I'm going to close my eyes. As part of the study, museum visitors can take the AI suitcase for a test run. The researchers then use the data they collect to further development. Take me... Hi. Oh, let's go again. And if I let go? Stop. Let's go. OK. Yep. This is ISS. Go ahead. Good job. Odaiba has a shopping mall, a large park, and many tourist attractions. I think Odaiba is a city where new technologies and people can coexist to create a future. I've been to Odaiba before, but this time I saw how people live and work here. It was fascinating to learn how Odaiba has changed from its start as a military fortification to what we see today. I'd like to come back to witness how Odaiba continues to evolve going forward.