Why Car Dealers lie, steal, cheat and scam car buyers on new cars and used cars alike. Their track record runs 70 years, and shows a trail of deception, lies, fees, junk products, and greed. This story by Kevin Hunter The Homework Guy and Amazing Elizabeth.
How to Beat the Dealer—In Plain English Let’s turn all that history into action. Here’s the Homework Guy four-part plan that works in today’s car market: 1) OTD or we’re done. From the comfort of home, ask for the Out-The-Door price in writing before you visit—vehicle price, tax, title, every fee, and every add-on. No clean OTD, no trip to the dealership. See our FREE blog on how to do this. We’ll put a link in the description box below. 2) Don’t say “I’m paying cash.” I know—it’s funny that this still shocks people. Lead with cash and you lose leverage. Dealers want financing profit. The smart move: get pre-approved with your credit union or bank, see if the dealer can beat the rate, and if there’s no prepayment penalty, you can decide later. Cash is a strategy, not a slogan. See our video on the 4 ways to pay for your car. 3) Kill the yo-yo. No taking the car until funding is final and the signed numbers match. If they pressure you to take it anyway, the answer is simple: “Not until funding is finalized and in writing.” 4) Refuse “mandatory” add-ons—on paper. If anything is “required,” you say: “Please note ‘mandatory to purchase’ on the buyer’s order.” Either it disappears or you just collected Exhibit A for regulators. Red Flags = Time to Walk They won’t email a written OTD.
“Mandatory” add-ons you didn’t ask for.
“Internet price” that morphs when you arrive.
They insist you take the car today before funding clears.
They push “extended warranty” without explaining who the administrator is, how claims work, or how refunds are calculated. The easiest negotiation is the one where you never start with the wrong store. If they won’t be straight at the keyboard, they won’t be straight at the desk.
Here's some proof that dealers have been
scumbags for more than seven decades and
how you beat them. If you've ever felt
like car dealers were playing you,
you're not imagining things. We knew
eventually we'd have to do this show
because over the years car salesmen have
come on our channel saying, "You guys
are giving us a bad reputation." The
problem is they have no clue about their
own past. Gallup's trust polls have
ranked car salespeople at or near the
bottom of honesty and ethics since they
first started doing the poll in the
1970s. To you dealers out there, you've
earned all on your own every disparaging
word ever said about you. Today, we're
rolling out how the dealer playbook
evolved since 1950, and we'll hand you a
simple plan to beat it. So, buckle up.
We're going to time travel through the
biggest dealer tricks. The dealer prep
fees, payment packing, yo-yo financing,
addendum stickers, extended warranties,
and yes, the pandemic era, where the
market adjustment became the favorite
two-word excuse to screw you by raiding
your wallet. At the end, we'll give you
the exact phrases to use, what to put in
writing, and how to walk away with your
money and your dignity still intact.
>> Starting up the 1950s to 1970s, the fee
that started it all. Let's start old
school. In the 1950s and60s, dealer prep
appears. Mysterious charges for
preparing your car. What did that mean
exactly? Wash it, fuel it, peel the
plastic, maybe check fluids. In other
words, overhead. The kind of thing any
normal business bakes into the price.
>> That's right. Then in the mid70s, bring
the Magnes Moss Warranty Act. It
tightens warranty disclosures and
consumer rights. Dealers adapted fast.
They don't stop selling you protection,
they just rename it. True manufacturer
warranties are included in the price,
but the finance office begins pushing
third-party vehicle service contracts,
still calling them extended warranties.
It's the same scare tactic. Big repair
bills under a different label with far
fewer protections.
>> Next up, the 1980s payment packing and
term creep. Welcome to the birth of
monthly payment traps. What monthly
payment are you looking for? They'd ask.
It sounds harmless until a dealership
packs the payment with junk products and
stretches your loan term to hit your
number. You think you negotiated, but
you didn't. You just agreed to pay more
for a longer period of time.
>> Here's the antidote that still works
today. Work on price first, financing
second, and paperwork last. If the first
words out of the salesperson's mouth are
monthly payment, you say quote me the
out the door price in writing. We'll
come back to the exact script at the end
of the show. Next up, the 1990s, the
dock fees balloon. The 1990s popularized
the dock fee supposedly for
administrative paperwork. Some states,
like Florida, run off the rails with it,
charging thousands. In some states, it's
capped. In many, it's not. Two customers
pay the exact same dock fee regardless
of the vehicle price. That's not
documentation. That's profit margin.
>> So, don't swing at the dock fee pitch
headon. Instead, negotiate the out the
door. If the dock fee is outrageous,
grind the vehicle price down to offset
that. Dealers love to say that dock fees
are non-negotiable. Cool. But the price
is. At the homework guy, we don't argue
over the dock fee as a line item anymore
because that's a losing argument. Our
professional coaches just reduce the
total price and counter offer without
it.
>> Along come the 2000s. The yo-yo spot
delivery trap comes in. The 2000s usher
in the yo-yo, also called spot delivery.
You drive home before financing is
finalized. Then the call comes, "Sorry,
your loan didn't fund, come back and
sign another deal." Translation here,
it's a far worse deal. They wanted you
emotionally attached to the car first.
It's called the puppy dog letting you
take it home. So, the number is
hurtless.
>> So, never take delivery until the
financing is approved, it's finalized,
and it's in writing. If they stop to
call you back to resign, just stop. You
sit down only after you see the original
sign numbers, and you're free to return
the car if they won't honor them. The
yo-yo relies on you to panic, so don't
give it any oxygen. Then in 2010, the
online bait, addendum stickers, and
mandatory junk. The 2010s look like
consumer paradise, listings online,
instant quotes, internet prices. Then
you meet the addendum sticker on the
window. nitrogen tires, vin etching,
propack, paint and fabric packages,
maybe even a market adjustment line
before that term went mainstream. Do you
remember people paying well over MSRP
for the PT Cruiser? You remember that?
That was absolutely insane.
>> I remember that. That thing is a bucket
of bolts. If a dealer says any add-on is
mandatory, ask for it in writing.
Specifically, mandatory to the purchase
of this vehicle. Watch how fast the
story changes. It's amazing how quickly
mandatory becomes optional when it has
to survive a line of questioning.
>> Then 2020 and 2022, the pandemic. This
was the take it or leave it era.
>> Totally.
>> Now the chapter many of you messaged us
about during this time. This was the
pandemic. Dealer lots go empty. Supply
chains crack. Production slows. And
overnight market adjustment becomes the
license to print money. And that was
your money, friends. We saw $3,000 to
$20,000 and even more slapped above MSRP
on ordinary vehicles. Take it or leave
it was the line. Some stores wouldn't
even take a call without a
non-refundable deposit. Many refused to
sell at MSRP, especially on hot models.
And if you said, "I'm paying cash." They
shoved you to the bottom of the list
because they wanted that back-end
finance profit really bad.
>> Way down to the bottom of the list. And
it wasn't just prices we're talking
about. We saw forced add-ons tied to the
sale. Protection package required. Etch
required. It's already on the car.
They'd say, "We can't take it off."
Dealers told buyers the market was so
hot that consumer choice didn't matter
anymore. The old tricks, payment
packing, dock fee pumping, addendum junk
didn't disappear. They just became
turbocharged instead.
>> And here's the real sting. As inventory
normalized, a lot of those bad behaviors
just stuck. Some stores kept adjustments
and bundles because they trained
customers to expect them. And that's why
we hammer the same basics today. From
home, get an out the-do price in
writing. Compare dealers. Never lead
with I'm paying cash and get preapproved
away from the showroom. The pandemic
didn't invent bad behavior, but it
certainly exposed it and caused it to
grow.
>> In 2023 to 2026, the hangover, old
habits die hard. We're past the worst
inventory crunch, but the playbook
remains. Dealers are still pushing
finance over cash, still milking those
blasted add-ons, and still allergic to
writing down numbers up front. You hear
new words, market scarcity, dealer
installed, value package, but the
function is the same. Extract profit
margin where buyers aren't looking. And
we still get DMs from buyers who thought
extended warranty was factorybacked when
it was in fact a third-party service
contract marked up thousands of dollars
and finance at the rate of the car.
Remember extended warranty is marketing.
You need to ask who's the administrator?
What's excluded? What's the deductible?
What's the cancellation refund schedule?
If you really want it, buy it at cost or
skip it.
>> All right. So, really quickly on these
vehicle service plans, many times
dealers just give you a pamphlet, which
actually isn't the contract at all. So,
if you should ever buy a vehicle service
contract, make sure you're actually
getting the contract, not just a little
flyer that goes along with it. Now,
here's how you beat the dealer in plain
English. Let's turn all of that history
into action. Here's the Homework Guy
four-part plan that works in today's car
market. Number one, OTD is everything.
You say it's OTD or we're done. from the
comfort of home. Ask for the out the
door price in writing before you visit.
We tell you how to do it right on our
website. It's a vehicle price, tax,
title, every fee, and every add-on. No
clean OTD, no trip to the dealership.
See our free blog on how to do this.
We'll put a link in the description box
down below.
>> Number two, don't say, "I'm paying
cash." I know it's funny that this still
shocks people. Lead with cash and you'll
lose your leverage. Dealers want that
financing profit because you know what?
It's a lot. The smart move is get
preapproved with your credit union or
bank and see if the dealer can beat that
rate. And if there's no prepayment
penalty, you can just decide later. Cash
is a strategy, not a slogan. See our
video on the four ways to pay cash for
your car.
>> Number three, kill the yo-yo. No taking
the car until the funding is final and
the signed numbers match up. If they
pressure you to take it anyway, the
answer is simple. Not until funding is
finalized and it's in writing. And
number four, refuse mandatory add-ons on
paper. If anything is required, you say,
"Please note mandatory to purchase on
the buyer's order. Either it disappears
or you just collected exhibit A for
regulators." Here are some red flags
that mean it's time to walk. They don't
email it written out the door. Mandatory
add-ons that you didn't ask for show up.
The internet price that morphs when you
arrive. They insist you take the car
today before a funding clears. and they
push extended warranty without
explaining who the administrator is, how
claims work, or how refunds are actually
calculated.
>> The easiest negotiation is the one where
you never start with the wrong store. If
they won't be straight at the keyboard,
they won't be straight at the desk
either.
>> You got that right. Let's drill a little
bit more into the pandemic era once more
because you asked for it. If a dealer
still has that market adjustment on a
mass market car years later, here's the
play. Number one, compare at least three
dealers within a reasonable radius. Ask
all three dealers for a written out the
door on the exact same build. Number
two, reply with the lowest competing
OTD, not a screen grab that can't be
verified, an emailed buyer's order with
line items. Number three, if they refuse
to budge because of the market
adjustment, just say that's all good.
Please keep me on your list if your
pricing changes and leave.
>> That leave hurts them more than you
think. Dealers live on throughput and
finance profit. Your power is choice.
And by the way, during the pandemic,
many stores showed their true colors. We
saw the rare good actors who honored
MSRP and refused to force junk. Those
dealers exist. Make sure you reward them
today.
>> So, here's the dealer's point of view
and why you still win. Look, we get the
dealer side. Slim new car margins. They
have dependence on FNI products. Rising
cost to run a business, corporate
quotas. But none of that justifies
lying, tying the sale to add-ons, or
yo-yo tactics. You can run a profitable
store without deception. We know because
we talked to dealers that can actually
do it.
>> And here's what the last few years
proved. When the market turns, the
dealers who treated customers fairly
keep those customers. The ones who
didn't, they make a quick buck and lost
a decade of trust. Some of you remember
who gouged you, and you should.
>> Here's a mini case study on how a savvy
car buyer wins. This is a real car buyer
scenario from our inbox. A woman wanting
a midsize SUV back during the pandemic.
Dealer number one said $49.95 adjustment
fee plus paint, fabric, and nitrogen in
the tires. Dealer two said MSRP, but
forced a $16.95 protection package.
Dealer number three, MSRP, no add-ons,
written out the doors on the email, and
a rate that matched her credit unions.
She took dealer number three because she
got a clean deal and wrote a glowing
review for them. That's how competition
fixes nonsense.
And for the record, she'd never said,
"I'm paying cash." She brought a
pre-approval and let them try to beat
it. They matched. She was out the door
in an hour, not taking all afternoon.
So, here's your 60-cond checklist, and
you can tape it to your fridge. Out the
door in writing before you go. Don't say
cash. Bring a pre-approval. Let them
beat it if they can. No spot delivery.
Funding must be final and in writing if
you're getting a loan. Optional means
removable. mandatory must be written as
such to be believed. Know your walk
away. No clean OTD, you're gone.
>> Add this. If there's an arbitration
clause in your contract, and you have an
opt out window, always use it. Follow
the instructions exactly and save copies
of everything. It preserves your voice
if you ever need it.
>> So, the final word on all this and why
it matters. We're tough on dealers
because the stakes are high. For most
people, a car is the second biggest
purchase of their life. Every old trick
we covered today still exists in some
form, but you don't have to fall for it.
>> At least seven decades of the same old
game in a simple counter. It's just
clarity on paper. If you remember
nothing else from this episode, remember
these words, out the door price in
writing. That phrase is your shield.
>> If today's hit list helped, give the
video a thumbs up and share it with a
friend who's shopping. If you want pros
in your corner against these dealers,
our team runs a hassle-free car buying
service for new or used cars, leases,
and lease buyouts. We negotiate so you
win. It's at the homeworkgu.com, the big
red button on the homepage.
>> And if you've already signed something
and you're worried about hidden fees,
illegal tying, or contract shenanigans,
check out our car deal review by
professionals and our legal violation
checkup, THG edition. We flag redline
items and show you your options fast. To
all of you loyal viewers and subscribers
out there, you guys rock. God bless you
all. I'm Kevin Hunter, the homework guy,
signing off on behalf of Alex Stevens,
our auto expert, and for the amazing
Elizabeth and our entire hassle-free car
buying team. Stick around while we
scroll through some of our five-star
Google reviews. Thank you for watching.
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