【始祖鳥、巴塔哥尼亞、北臉選購指南】戶外外套選購 Arc'teryx, Patagonia, North Face

大家好,我是斯坦利安斯,歡迎來到課堂 今天我們要討論的五件外套 來自Philson, North Face, Patagonia, Arc'teryx, 以及最出名的外套製作人 名字將會在之後的視頻中被編輯 我是說視頻 一路走來,我會告訴你 我花了多久時間在每件外套都開始閃閃發光 當外面溫度是5度的時候 我計時了 為什麼Philson的外套是我的最佳兩件 為什麼我對Patagonia的外套感到失望 為什麼Arc'teryx的技術讓他們的外套變得出色 但同時也有一個巨大的限制 讓你不想要外套 最後,為什麼這一點都不重要 好了,課堂,給我一顆蘋果,我們開始吧 大家好,我是Michael 我在上一集的視頻中說過 我會在一個星期內製作視頻 然後我錯過了那個時間 所以這很棒 我還在地上找到這個冰淇淋杯 以為它可以幫助我 說明一些事情 另外,如果你們有疑問 我穿的是Huckberry All Weather Duck Boots 它們非常好 它們有點像L.L.Bean Boots的升級版 它們其實是水性的 它們比較像鞋子 而且它們非常時尚 這些Bad Larrys是Giver的襯衫 它們非常棒 它們是塑膠的 它們非常棒 我把這些送給Taylor 因為她經常在丹麥騎摩托車 我今天穿的所有東西 都會在我的網址裡 我的網址,Carrot的網址 你只要點擊它們 它們全部都是夥伴的網址 所以這是一個很好的方式 如果你想支持我的頻道 就要點擊它們 好的,所以這個第一件外套 是Philson的Down Cruiser 它是Wool Cruiser的遊戲 它們最有名的產品 它們為了什麼而成名 基本上,它是Philson的所有東西 比如說,這個很酷 這個很棒 把它們組合起來,再加上Down 所以我們有一個防水布 它們的11盎司塑膠布 上面有一個遮蓋布 它是8盎司 所以它比較有彈性 但實際上,它有更重的,更低的 更輕的,更高的 所以這樣 如果你穿過 這是一個不好的示範 我想我應該進去那裡 如果你穿過遮蓋布 就沒那麼多問題了 我需要幫忙 防水布的領帶 在這裡 還有防水布 在遮蓋布上 還有很多空間 在遮蓋布上 即使有很多東西塞進去 所以無論如何 所有東西都組合起來 然後成為這個外套 為什麼我們要用塑膠布 你可能會問 如果Down變濕了 尤其是這個Down 它沒有任何處理 非常沒有效果 你可能會死在那裡 現在 一個快速的調整 到Down 我們要把一些東西 拿走 這樣 就不會有混淆了 Down不是一隻翅膀 人們熟悉翅膀 人們經常用它來寫歌 Alexander Hamilton 用它來寫他著名的音樂劇 翅膀在一隻鳥的外面 當你談到Down的外套 它是一隻狗或是一隻狗 Down在裡面 它可以保持狗或是一隻狗的溫暖 我在Google上 一隻狗穿著外套 然後 我用AI的能力 把它做出來 一個非常高質量的Down外套 比翅膀還要Down 大部分的Down外套 都有一個混合的Down和翅膀 80%-20% 通常是你最想要的最低 80%Down 20%翅膀 再加上 還有Down Fill 和Down Weight Down Fill 是Down to Weight Ratio的效率 混合起來 你會看到600Fill Down 你會看到900Fill Down The higher fill the more efficient it is so you need less of it Down Weight Obviously it's just the weight of the Down in the jacket usually measured in ounces A lower fill Down dries faster than a higher fill Down That ties in very heavily to Arcteryx which we'll talk about very shortly but we have to finish up the Filson section So this Filson Down Cruiser is 650 Fill 80%-20% They also have another Down jacket which I tried to get from Filson Maybe I will if you're interested The Chill Coot I have the time tables of how long I wore each jacket outside before I started shivering It was probably 5 degrees This is the worst test in the world I hope you're aware of that It's just me I have bias Really we're talking about how comfortable I was in these jackets because you can't really be like well it's this percentage warmer or anything like that Number 1 Filson 1 minute and 52 seconds OK next up we'll do the Patagonia Trace Parka Actually I'll do that one later I was really disappointed by that parka so we'll talk about that one later but we'll do the North Face McMurdo Parka which I was not disappointed by I used to watch reviews of this jacket like freshman year in college and I wanted one so bad but at the time I couldn't afford one and I would just watch reviews and be like that jacket's amazing that jacket's awesome and then I could have bought one I never did I got all those other cool stuff We're now leaning away from Waxcon obviously and we're going to North Face's version of Gore-Tex essentially Now on this list the only company that uses Gore-Tex is Arcteryx and that is very, very important North Face uses their own proprietary version of this It's a very similar thing so it's waterproof, windproof This is actually one of the warmest jackets on the list When we get to the timing scores it's very, very high up there and what's interesting about that is we just learned all this stuff about fill power and fill weight and this is the lowest fill power down jacket that is on this list 600 fill down but this jacket has the most amazing hand warmer pockets in the bunch It has them at the second most amazing hand warmer pockets in the bunch The wind flap over the zipper is the best because it's Velcro so if you have mittens or gloves on you can just spank it on you don't have to worry about snapping all these different things and it has a hood which is a huge game changer for warmth until we get to Patagonia and on top of that on the hood there is a removable fur lining fake fur Something really cool about fur trim linings is it actually changes the way wind interacts with your face so if the fur is out or forward wind can't really like spank you in the face It kind of creates like this little vortex that keeps you warmer and keeps the wind a little away from you North Face happened to do snaps around the outer of the hood and that's great but what I did notice what happened was when I was testing this jacket some cold air would come in through the gaps where those snaps were and then get and hit you in the face It's obviously reduced by a lot but that stunk 6 minutes and 12 seconds Look honey The American flag It's just like the moon We're at the top It wasn't actually as high as I thought It's really not Patagonia's fault I kind of sort of bought the wrong jacket It's one of those jackets that's really okay at a lot of things but not really It's probably a great rain jacket but it's not really that great at everything because you're making compromises It's like the North Face hood essentially This is the Patagonia Trace 3-in-1 Parco It's my favorite fit I think it looks cool I would pick this over the Arc'teryx any day If Patagonia made a version of it that was an actual winter jacket and not like a mix of everything The way this jacket works is the outside shell is a waterproof raincoat which is fantastic It fits great It looks awesome It's a great jacket All the separate components are great But when you combine them There's a lot of things that beat them at a similar price point 700 down fill jacket Not Parco The Parco is not lined So it ends at about your belt line It's pretty warm It's nothing too crazy You'll see the information when we get to the time of how long I was outside with each one But it's fine It's great The hand warmer pockets are not that good because it's a rain jacket And that's pretty much it I had to change my angle because that person snuck up on my 6 I had no idea I guess the problem is not solved yet Anyways Now I'm next to the bathroom So if anyone has to use it It'll be incredibly weird And I'll say What's the password And then obviously I'll let them in 2 minutes and 2 seconds OK Arcteryx What is so special about Arcteryx That was my Google search history What makes Arcteryx so special Is that they just do everything to the absolute maximum cutting edge of technology And they use the best of the best And I said Gore-Tex was really important Gore-Tex is basically the same mindset as Arcteryx No no You can interrupt It's fine Have a good day But that is where Arcteryx shines Because they use Gore-Tex Because it's the best What they don't use from Gore-Tex Or other brands They make themselves And they innovate Like micro-seaming For example Where you have these like no visible seams On Arcteryx jackets Which is really cool It gives them that really sleek Futuristic look There's no Lower level Arcteryx They start high end And don't go down So that's why Arcteryx Is so expensive off the bat You can get an expensive Version of Patagonia Or other down jackets That are like that too But there is no Cheap version of Arcteryx That's the Arcteryx philosophy And that Is where we get into The hot topic of this video Down composite mapping And contour construction The coolest thing ever When you're talking about Down jackets Those two things Are insane And they're genius And they're brilliant And I can't get enough of them But they also have A really big flaw That we'll talk about at the end The Arcteryx boys Are gonna go nuts 750 fill down The second highest fill of down We haven't gotten to The Italian stallion yet Don't forget In third place Arcteryx With 4 minutes and 45 seconds The sun is setting So I have to go down The Italian stallion Is waiting in the stable AKA my car Babe, babe Look, babe It's the American flag Just like on the moon I made a video about this jacket About a year ago And said it was the jacket Of my dreams Since then I've acquired it This is the Manufactura Ciccarelli Fisherman down jacket I forget exactly what it's called I just wanna say Everybody that I've asked When they think about this jacket Doesn't like it So there are More normal looking jackets here OK, that'll That's what we needed to do 800 fill down The weight is super heavy It's packed to the gills with down Vegetable tanned accents That you can tighten with the hood Or tighten on the body So cold air doesn't come up Into the body 20-ish ounce wool outer You could also do this In total waxed cotton Waxed cotton arms Waxed cotton hood An insane jacket The best of the best That you could possibly get When you're looking for down jackets And it has waxed cotton So it will age and patina Beautifully over time I've talked to Mr. Ciccarelli before Many a times He's a super cool dude He made a line of things For Filson before The Filson Italian line That's Manufactura Ciccarelli Best of the best I did not shiver With Manufactura Ciccarelli Out of these five jackets There's two jackets That do something very different You have North Face Patagonia Arcteryx And then you have Filson And Manufactura Cic When you deal with North Face Patagonia and Arcteryx They all have the amazing benefits Of technology They're super waterproof Super lightweight They're tough, they're cool But the flaws that you run into With those All kind of center around Delamination in some way Gore-Tex and then North Face's and Patagonia's version All delaminate over time Which means they separate And bubble And become less effective And maybe it's ten years Maybe it's two years Depends on how you wear your jacket But they become less effective What's interesting is When you look at like Old North Face jackets From the 70's and stuff Those The really only difference Between those and like This Filson for example Is they use nylon And not wax cotton And nylon is fine Nylon is very simple It just holds the down in But when you start to incorporate All these different Waterproof technologies And glues and stuff like that Then you have more room for failure The biggest thing That I forgot to talk about Down composite mapping And contour construction With Arcteryx Lower fill power dries faster Higher fill power More efficiently warm But doesn't dry as fast There is also Synthetic insulation Which dries dramatically Faster than down in general So if you combine Those two things And Arcteryx does this For a very specific reason We'll talk about Then your garment Is better equipped For a variety of circumstances So Arcteryx does this In two different ways Number one Like I said Down composite mapping And we'll go over The pros first Arcteryx puts Synthetic insulation In key areas on your garment That are most likely to get wet Like your hood Your shoulders Your cuff Your underarms Because you'd be sweating Since those areas Get wet more than all the others They dry faster With synthetic insulation People that have Down composite mapping Say it's actually Super convenient When they do get wet That those areas Dry really fast There is a big problem But before we get into that The other thing is Contour construction Which is very cool So you have your baffle That holds the down They put a layer Of synthetic insulation Around the down insulation To act as like Another shield To make sure that down Doesn't get wet And you get that layer Of synthetic insulation there too The downside to both of these Down is very very lofty For a very long time Synthetic insulation Is not very lofty For a long time It is very lofty But it will compress And be less insulatory After a while That synthetic insulation Loses some of its warmth Capabilities And the down insulation Does not So you have cold areas On your shoulders On your armpits On your hood Another point In Filson's favor For me specifically Is that over time This jacket will patina And get darker Especially if you re-wax it And it will start to look gorgeous There's a lot of different types Of down jackets obviously But if we boil it down There are heritage cloth ones Like this is waxed cotton Then there are the ones With the waterproof outer And no baffles on the outside That's on the inside Like the three we looked at today And then There's the alpine down jacket That's not usually called Alpine down jacket But the ones where you can see The baffles People are like covered In like goose feathers And stuff like that There's different types of jackets For different types of purposes So the big point is really You need to figure out Exactly what you're going to be using This jacket for But when we compare All of these down jackets There really is no clear winner Because you do a lot of Different things The other super important thing To consider is that All of this varies on How active you're going to be If you're just sitting at a game Or doing not much outside You want a really warm outer layer Probably But the second you start doing Physical labor You realize that Maybe the down jacket is important But not that important Because you get warm very quickly So that's when you realize The most important thing That you can possibly do Is layer correctly This is not a video on layering But you should look into Base layer, mid layer, outer layer, shell Whatever it may be For what you're doing Because that's the key to being warm My little blueberry muffin, Taylor Was always cold all the time No matter how big of a down jacket She put on Then the only thing we changed Was I had an old thick Under armor base layer in my drawer Put that on We went outside with a jacket And she was immediately too warm And we figured it out You know how I said I was going to do a video In seven days And then I didn't I'm going to try again But I'm going to Copenhagen very soon To see my sweet, sweet Taylor So maybe I'll make a video With her in Copenhagen But I'll see you very soon I'll see you next week