SIX Cool Techniques To Paint Trees | For Beginners

Collect Watercolor Paintings
41 followers
This tutorial shows you 6 different techniques to help you paint trees in watercolour.
Paper
300gsm 100% cotton watercolour paper 14 x 10 inches, Rough, on block.
Size 10, 6, 4 Black Velvet Brushes
Flat 1 inch brush
Eradicator brush
Foliage brush (Hog brush is a good alternative.)
Plastic card.
Scourer.
Synthetic sponge.
Natural sponges.
Paper towel.
Colours & (alternatives):
Cad Yellow (Lemon Yellow
Ultramarine Deep (Cobalt Blue)
Prussian Blue (Phthalo Blue)
Burnt Sienna (Burnt Umber)
Quin Gold (Raw Sienna)
Palette: MIJELLO : 18 WELL FOLDING PLASTIC PALETTE : BLUE
Triple pot water pot
#Arts #FineArts #watercolortutorial #watercolor #watercolorpainting
Hi guys, welcome to this step-by-step watercolor tutorial all about painting
trees in watercolor. I show you six easy techniques and I really hope it
inspires you and gives you the courage to paint trees in your landscape
paintings. Let's get started. So my first technique is side brush for painting the
oak tree. So I've drawn out six oak trees and I'll show you six different
techniques so I'm going to work light to dark. So I'm using the dry brush on this
rough paper, using the belly of the brush pretty much, working wet on dry with a
very light yellow green. I've mixed up a little bit more Prussian blue into that
yellow, cadmium yellow, taking the excess paint off there and sort of scrubbing on
this sort of semi-dry brush with this light green paint, damp into damp here
and there, so working light to dark, painting all the light foliage on
first of all. Now I'm exaggerating the darks here so I've mixed up some
Prussian blue with some burnt umber, you can use phthalo blue with burnt sienna,
and I'm painting this damp into damp, sort of still scrubbing it on, trying to
use the belly of the brush there so the paint doesn't pour out. I will say as a
little tip is don't use your best brushes for this dry brush technique
because it can actually wear them out so you might want to use an older brush
there as you're scrubbing onto that rough or cold pressed paper. Now I've
mixed up some ultramarine and burnt umber here and I'm just going to paint
in, damp into damp, the tree trunk. Now I like to do this damp because you get
some soft edges but I'm also sort of painting in, so it's almost like a
negative shape, so I'm leaving the positive lighter shape of the foliage
that looks like it's in front of the tree trunk and branches as well, so if
you look at the photograph you've got the main sort of trunk going up
obviously through the center of the tree there and then the branches branching
out sort of from larger branches to very thin branches and you can leave gaps in
between so it looks like the foliage is in front and those branches are in the
center or in the back sort of of the tree there. I'm keeping this as simple as
possible just to give you an idea of the technique and just to say it's important
to keep your light source the same so the light is coming from above the sky
and also from the left so the Sun is somewhere in the left in the sky so you
get more light on the left hand side and above so your darker tonal values will
be more on the right hand side and underneath the foliage there. So I've
decided to just a paint a very simple background and I'm painting some
ultramarine wet-on-dry and paling this towards the horizon mixing up sort of a
little bit of a blue-green pale green in the distance here still wet-on-dry and
just sort of it's a really nice way actually of just sort of practicing
techniques and putting the tree in a sort of situation here it's great for
the sketchbooks and just painting the grasses wet-on-dry with a dry brush
effect there as you can see to give the grasses a touch of sparkle mixing up
some ultramarine here with some burnt umber painting the shadow of the tree on
the right hand side because the lights coming from the left damp into damp a
little bit of shadow just in the foreground to finish off this first
technique. My second technique for painting trees is to use a scourer and
here is a household scourer you can use a used one and my tip is to tear it and
not to cut it and that way you get some nice natural looking edges. My next tip
is to dip it into clean water and then wring out all the water so you have a
damp scourer sponge mix up plenty of milky paint and then print onto your dry
surface there with the light color first and I've used the cadmium yellow with
the Prussian blue mixing up now sort of my darker tonal value and I'm using
ultramarine with some quinacridone gold for all the materials I'm using colors
and alternative colors you can find those in the description below so on
with the dark green I'm pressing wet into wet this scourer and I'm trying to
keep all the darks underneath the lighter areas and a little bit more to
the right-hand side of the tree it's such a fun technique and great if you
and branches damp into wet I'm going to paint in a few grasses here and there
using my size 4 round brush damp into damp with that sort of mid green there
as you can see there I lifted off with some plastic card I thought it'd be quite
nice just to paint some darks at the bottom of those distant trees I thought
it'd be quite nice actually just to paint some darker grasses in the
foreground as well really to create some depth in this painting so tip number
three using a synthetic sponge here is the synthetic sponge again you can use
an old used one and I'm tearing it again to get that nice textured edge and
soaking it in some water and then wringing all the water out so you get a
damp sponge and you can see it's got a nice texture on the surface there so
I've mixed up some milky paint that's the cadmium yellow with a little bit of
the Prussian blue so it's a yellow green so more yellow less blue and I am
sponging wet on dry and I'm just tapping away there using the sort of side of the
sponge as well to create some really nice textures so I'm mixing up a really
dark green again using the Prussian blue with the burnt umber going in with my
sponge they're really fully loading it as you can see getting a touch more
paint there and just tapping very gently trying to get underneath the sort of
lighter foliage there and just tapping away pretty much with a little bit of
the edge of the sponge there I'm really enjoying this actually it was a lot more
effective than I thought it would be as well it's creating some lovely textures
and I am tapping very gently
so I'm using the plastic card it's actually dried off a little bit but I've
managed to pull out a few sort of lighter marks there and I'm also trying
to pull out some light on the left hand side of the tree there as well the
lights coming from the left remember so I'm going to tap in a little bit more
dark there there's a lot of shadow at the bottom of the tree and to the right
hand side as well so I'm tapping very gently just to make sure I don't sort of
sponge dark over the lighter area and I thought I'd do a little bit of sponging
on those bushes there and I quite like actually just mixing with a sponge going
straight into the paint to create some textures as well I'm just sort of
bringing my tree trunk there at the bottom there just out a little bit to
the left so it looks a bit more natural so my number four technique is using a
natural sponge I do tend to use them quite a lot and I have lots of different
variations this is a very smooth one which I wouldn't necessarily recommend
for textures I use it for lifting off this as you can see it's got wonderful
textures across the sponge there so you can I make a collection of them really
just getting the ones and I just look out for the different textures to see if
I can get that to look natural for the tree foliage so again I've mixed up a
really milky wash there make sure you mix plenty of paint and it's not too
thin and I'm pressing very gently wet on dry starting off again with this
light color there sort of filling that shape the canopy of the tree this is a
very dark sort of green here the Prussian blue with the burnt umber you
can use quinacridone gold and I am sort of pressing damp into damp again trying
to keep the dark underneath the lighter areas of the foliage and to the right
hand side not always easy when you've got a big sponge in your hand but try
your best and again some sponges natural sponges will be better than others so
I'm just sort of painting here the sort of shadow part of the tree and also the
shadow for the bushes on the right hand side and starting to paint the tree trunk
now sort of damp into damp with my size 4 brush using that mixture again of
ultramarine and burnt umber so again I'm going to paint the sky with the
ultramarine wet on dry with my size 10 brush paling towards the horizon just
little wriggles of the brush
so number five technique is using the natural sponge but this time wet into
wet so I'm going to wet the paper with my flat one-inch brush there wetting
everything so sort of put that sort of under painting on there using the
sponging technique so I'm going to paint the sky first using my size 10 brush
with some ultramarine and just paint it slightly dark at the top so again
creating depth the darker tonal values be at the top because it's the nearest
to you and it gets paler towards the horizon and just painting some of this
light green grasses wet into wet here and I'm painting the distant trees also
wet into wet so again mix up a milky wash a light green wash that's the
cadmium yellow with the Prussian blue so 70% cadmium yellow and 30% blue and tap
your sponge gently onto the damp paper so I'm mixing up the darker green now
I've actually used some ultramarine there as well with the quinacridone gold and
I'm going to tap this very gently not too hard very gently so you get the
texture damp into damp onto the damp surface and again I'm just painting the
sort of bushes to the right here and the shadow of the tree damp into damp with a
little bit of shadow underneath there for those distant trees damp into damp
again using some ultramarine just to create some subtle darks in those
distant trees and also some darks at the bottom of the bushes there damp into
damp and again I'm just going to paint a dark shadow in the foreground to
create depth in the painting damp into damp with a mid to dark green and use my
plastic card to pull out some of that paint to create some grasses to finish
off this first stage so my last technique is using speciality brushes
and that's brushes that are designed to create texture and this is one here that
actually creates the look of foliage it's quite a sort of textured brush a
little bit like a hog hair brush which you could use as an alternative and I'm
sort of scrubbing it onto that sort of rough watercolor paper and it's really
creating some nice sort of textured effects the look of foliage there and I'm
sort of changing the direction as well and again if you're using these brushes
or a hog hair brush just take the excess off on your paper towel it really does
control it and gives that lovely dry brush effect as well so as you can see
there I'm really sort of covering all of that sort of lighter area of the tree
there with this sort of foliage brush and I will put a link for the brush in
the description below so I'm mixing up a dark green here again it's that Prussian
blue with the burnt umber and painting underneath the sort of lighter foliage
there damp into damp really sort of looking at the photograph just to see
where those darks are not every single dark but it's just to give that
impression and remember the dark is on the right hand side because the lights
coming from above and the left and again using my size 4 brush to paint in the
tree trunk and remember to fan it out at the bottom so it looks like it's growing
out of the ground rather than straight down like a telegraph pole so again going
up into the center of the tree lining up that trunk and painting damp into damp
so leaving that sort of gaps there with a light of the foliages and painting the
trunk behind or in between but it creates the look of it being behind
so I've mixed up a creamy yellow with a little bit to the Prussian blue and just
tapping away here at the edge of the tree really to create that sort of
natural edge and try to keep it sort of asymmetrical don't keep it all round
sort of break it off and have little bits of foliage breaking away so it's
little paintings to dry and I'm going to go back to a couple and the one I'm
going to go back to first of all is the sponging wet into wet painting because I
want to create some more texture here wet on dry so you've got that fuzzy sort
of texture in the background and now I'm sort of painting the sort of darker
tonal values especially to the right again and underneath the lighter foliage
areas there tapping very very gently don't press too hard and it just sort of
brings the painting to life there because you don't get as much texture
when you sponge wet into wet or damp into damp but when you do so wet on dry
you get a lot more texture there if you compare the sponging wet on dry without
any wet in wet it's almost too many sparkly sort of white gaps there and
this looks a little bit more natural and softer but you may prefer the one on the
left and that's the beauty of painting so again I'm painting now the tree trunk
here wet on dry with my size 4 brush and because I quite like what I've done here
I'm just spending a little bit longer than I would normally do so I'm really
sort of finessing the bottom of that tree and the shadow going out to the
right-hand side there and I'm painting sort of a mid green there sort of a bit
of a dry brush effect there with my size 4 brush to create the look of the bushes
there to the right-hand side going up through the center of the tree there
with that ultramarine and burnt umber sort of mix there quite creamy using my
size 4 brush and just again following the line of the tree trunks and branches
giving the appearance that they are connected so I'm actually scraping off
the left-hand side of the tree with my plastic card to create the look of light
hitting the left-hand side of the tree so I just thought I'd add a few more
dark sort of marks here shadows in the tree that I use the scourer so I'm
actually using the scourer still and just printing on gently some of the dark
marks there and using a little bit of light as well here and there and it does
sort of bring it all together it looks more natural this way it almost needed
that other stage and just sort of painting a few little branches in here
and there as well so here are the paintings I've removed the washi tape
and I just want to assess to see if I need to do any more to these little
paintings and I realized actually I hadn't actually lifted off the light on
the left-hand side of the tree trunk there where you can actually see that a
little bit in the photograph so I'm just lifting off now with my little
eradicator brush and just finessing here and there using the paper towel to
lift off some of that light as you can see I'm just coming down onto the ground
a little bit on the left-hand side to make it look like the tree trunk is
naturally growing out of the ground so I think I'll leave my little tree studies
there for now so I really hope you found that helpful and that it inspires you
and gives you the courage to paint trees in your watercolor landscape paintings
some of the techniques are so much fun and just experimenting with the
different sponges either household sponges or if you can get your hands on
a natural sponge if you have any questions about this tutorial please put
them in the comment section below and remember if you'd like to see more
content like this don't forget to subscribe to my channel where you will
get updates of my latest tutorials and if you would like to learn more about
watercolor get access to exclusive content downloadable sketch outlines and
more bonus content why not think about joining my patreon membership details
about the membership can be found in the description below and don't hesitate to
ask me any questions thank you so much for watching happy painting bye for now
