Painting an Art Deco Dresser Using Chalk Paint | Facebook Marketplace Furniture Flip

Hey friends, it's Holly from Chic Antique and welcome back to my channel. In today's video, I'm going to be painting an art deco dresser that I found on Facebook Marketplace. I'm actually going to be using a color that I haven't used on this channel, so I'm so excited for you guys to see how it turns out. If you're excited for this video, make sure to give it a thumbs up and let's go ahead and get started. All right friends, here's the piece we're going to be working on. It is an art deco dresser that I found on Facebook Marketplace. You can see it has some damage, some dents, and some dings, but surprisingly, the drawers are actually completely intact in excellent condition, so we just need to fix up the outside. This is completely solid wood, super sturdy, and really well made. We're going to start as we always do by first removing the hardware before we clean the entire piece. After I've removed the hardware, I'm going to go ahead and clean this with a TSP cleaner. I'll be using Dixie Bell's white lightning cleaner dissolved in some water. And then I'm just going to wipe down the entire piece inside and out with that cleaner. I did do two passes of this white lightning because of how dirty it was. It was a lot dirtier than I expected it to be. Here's what the water looked like after that first pass. Now to remove the cleaner, I'm just going to be coming back with a wet rag with some clean water just to rinse off that cleaner so there's no residue. And the top drawers had this scraping issue. The bottom of the drawer is just barely scraping the bottom, so I'm going to show you how to fix it. We're going to go ahead and replace these drawer slide tacks as well as the drawer stops. I'm going to be using thumb tacks for this. They're about the size as these drawer slides, so I'm just going to tap these in with my hammer. Next, we're going to be replacing the drawer stops with these ones I found on Amazon. If you're interested, I can link them in the description. These prevent the drawer from coming out when you pull it out all the way, so I do recommend replacing them if they're missing on a piece that you're working on. Now we're just going to continue on that left side, without scraping. I can't tell you how excited I was about this. Now I'm going to be sanding down the top as well as those little details around the sides using 80 grit sandpaper on my orbital sander. I'm just showing you a couple seconds of this in real time just to show you how slow I go when I do this. I am removing the varnish as well as the stain, so we are really getting down there into the raw wood. I like to go slowly because it strips down the finish more evenly, it makes it smoother, and it prevents swirl marks as well. And now we're just going to speed it up. Just to give you an idea, this clip here is sped up 2000%. That's a lot, but I'm just trying to tell you how important I think it is to go slowly when you're stripping down a finish and sanding. It's these little details and these extra steps that are going to make your piece more professional and more durable. After using 80 grit, I'm going to come back with 120 grit and scuff sand the rest of the piece, the drawers, as well as smooth out the top that we used 80 grit sandpaper on. And this goes a lot faster just because I'm scuff sanding and I'm only overlapping my passes by 50% here. And then moving on to the top, doing the same thing. After that, I'm just sanding down the guides in the rails on the drawers to make sure they slide as smooth as possible. Next, I'm going to be filling in all of the damage, so I'm going to be using Bondo's All-Purpose Filler as well as DAP Plastic Wood Filler in some of the smaller areas. And there was a lot to fill in, so I didn't show that part, but I'm just showing you now how many things I filled in. And let me tell you, this was 100% worth it because there was all that damage. I was able to cover almost all of it up and bring this piece back into great condition. Next, I'm going to be priming, so I'm going to be using a roller for this. I'll be using 4-inch rollers with Zinsser 1-2-3 Primer. And I always recommend stirring and mixing your products before you get started every time. Now, to get started on priming, I'm just going to cap off those edges with a chip brush because I can't reach them with the roller. And then I'm going to smooth everything out with that roller. You can't really tell because I sped up the clip here, but I actually don't recommend this specific 4-inch roller because they don't roll very well. At certain points, it actually stopped rolling and it was just sliding around and pushing the paint around, and that was really annoying. So I don't recommend these ones. I got them at Home Depot. I believe they're just the in-house brand. So I do recommend spending a little bit more money on rollers so that you get something that works really, really well. Next, I'm moving on to the side, again using my chip brush to get in the area that I can't reach with the roller. Then I'm going to continue with that roller. You can see a little bit better here where it stopped rolling and it was just sliding around, but I did get it to work, thankfully. After letting the primer dry, I'm going to be sanding it down smooth using 220-grit sandpaper. After sanding, you always want to remove that dust using a microfiber cloth or a tack cloth. Now for paint, I'm going to be using Dixie Belle's chalk mineral paint in the color aubergine. It is a purple color with a blue undertone, and I'm going to be using my Dixie Belle flat medium brush. I'm going to start by capping off the edges and then continue from left to right. It may be a little bit hard to tell in this clip here, but this paint color has really excellent coverage. I only needed two coats to reach full coverage, which is awesome because then you don't need as much paint and it saves time, which I'm all about. And I'm just taking my time, smoothing it out as I go, making sure to work section by section, and then smooth out that there, and then I'm going to continue down. This color is really, really hard to capture on camera. It almost looks blue when I take photos and video of it, but I promise it's purple. It just has that very strong blue undertone, so if the sun isn't out shining, it looks more blue than purple. Now I'm just going to be continuing down that side. I'm using long strokes to smooth out the paint and make it as smooth as possible. You can definitely see here how good the coverage is. showing you a close-up of that front detail there. This paint looks so smooth, I just love it. Now after letting the first coat dry, I'm coming back for my second coat, and we'll just be repeating that process. And for my second coat, I'm doing a little bit of a different technique. I'm applying it in long lines rather than square sections, because if you're applying it in long lines, it dries more smooth and more even than if you are applying it in more square sections. So I want this second coat, which is my last coat, to be very smooth, so I'm applying it in left side, just showing you what that second coat looks like. Again, I'm applying it in those long Clear Coat in Flat, and I'm going to be mixing in a little bit of my paint to tint it in order to prevent that sort of white cast that you can sometimes get when you clear coat dark colored pieces. And I'm going to be applying this using my zebra chiseled wedge brush, applying it in a similar way that I applied the paint in long lines in order for it to look as smooth as possible. When you're using this flat clear coat, don't worry about getting it to look perfect, because it dries almost invisible. And I just wanted to show you, this is a 20 second time lapse over a 20 minute span, I just wanted to show you how this clear coat dries, how smooth it looks, and how pretty it looks. And last thing we're going to do is clean up this hardware. I did clean it with white lightening first. Now I'm going to sand off all the tarnished bits using 120 grit sandpaper. And then I'm going to follow that with 320 grit sandpaper to smooth everything out. Next, I'm going to spray the hardware using Rust-Oleum metallic paint and pure gold. Now I'm going to be using Big Mama's Butta in Orange Grove on the drawer guides, just to keep the drawers moving smoothly and easily. It also adds a really nice orange scent to the interior of your piece. And I'm also going to be applying this to the interior drawers, just to freshen them up and seal that wood to prevent stains. And I'm also going to use this on the bottom of the drawers as well, to make sure they slide really well. Alright, now that it's all complete, I just want to remind you what we started with. you enjoyed it. I'm actually really sad that I have to sell this piece, I really fell in love with it and I wish I could keep it honestly, but it does need to go to a new home. So if you love how it turned out, make sure to leave me a comment down below, and subscribe to my channel if you aren't already. And as always, stay to the end for some bloopers. And I thank you guys so much for watching, and I'll see you guys next time. Bye! I'm so good at filming!