Paddling the Willamette Part 4

I think this is it. This isn't blue green algae is it? No, it just looks like bits of ----. That was all right. Our camp at the Willamette Mission State Park is tucked away in a little swampy slough that runs parallel to the main river back in the direction of Salem. The property was once a Methodist mission and a hazelnut orchard. It's undergone significant habitat restoration and has an excellent network of trails for hiking, biking and horses. Mid-fall sees large flocks of geese fleeing the increasingly cooler conditions of the north with the intent to sit out the winter in the more agreeable southern latitudes. At our little supply stop in Salem, Summer got steaks. She got herself probably maybe it's a fillet, a fillet mignon and I think she got me in cricket. She got a I don't know something big anyway but it's got a bone in there. You know we're doing it tough on the river. Today's voyage could be a short one or it might be a long one. We've got a storm on its way apparently but just around the corner we might be able to restock with water and and then we'll let the rest of the journey unfold. It's a short backtrack out of our little slough and into the main channel. While Cricket and myself test this section of the river to see if there's any fish in there, Wilms wanders off on a water run though it takes a few attempts wading through a maze in the willows to find the trail which leads to a spacious park and a little spigot of potable water. Yeah I think that should be enough. Have you tasted it? Island. We're on the downstream section some very inviting camping opportunities present themselves. We resist the temptation due to more unsettled weather in the forecast and push on instead to the promise of protection at the sanctuary. We'll go around the outside so we'll hook into that big channel there if we can. I think I like it. Good because this is what we're staying in. With the onset of both soggy and windy conditions it's tempting to use the forest as a buffer however our on-site analysis reveals some dead and rotting branches overhanging the suitable areas so in this case our tent is placed out in the open on a small sandy patch. Our main camp is positioned under a couple of black walnut trees that come with their own set of risks as this time of year the heavy fruits drop like rocks. Luckily for us most of the fruits above our tarp have fallen already and for that we just need to watch our angles. The sanctuary was once a farm and since has been acquired by the Willamette Riverkeeper. Back aways from the river the thick forests yield to more open country undergoing some restoration. Here a loop trail circumnavigating the property has been created including some river views back upstream though it's rapidly been overrun by blackberry brambles and much of the trail is inaccessible. Throughout the summer months the brambles have some redeeming qualities but that's all faded away by fall and all that remains is a vindictive nasty creature seeking to tear flesh from bone. Access is still possible to what's called the Cedars, a shady grove of pines making for a pleasant wander. Close to the Cedars we find this dead specimen possibly a Townsend's mole with its large paddle-like front claws and funny little snout. I've never seen a living one as these insectivorous mammals are exclusively subterranean and barring the fact it's dead it appears to be in good condition. A possible answer to this conundrum comes from an area back near where we live involving gophers, blunt-nosed rodents able to fell a young fig as fast as you can plant them. In a clearing by the creek I found two dead ones side by side. After some investigation it was revealed to be the territory of a family of grey foxes, a monogamous mated pair and their two boisterous cubs. The handsome grey fox are exceptionally proficient hunters of birds, cottontails and especially gophers. They pounce on them, make the kill and sometimes leave them be returning later for the bounty. My guess here is our mole met a similar fate and is on the menu that Summer is very very excited about hot dogs. I am excited but maybe not that much. Memories of telling Fred Reed that I wanted mine burnt. Due to population density and private land, camping opportunities along the Willamette focus on gravel bars, islands and greenway properties accessible only by boat barring a few exceptions. Locations with road access can be identified quite quickly as it takes the actions of very few to mar it for the many. As for boat access, not just paddle craft but also small power boats can be found throughout the voyage from the Mackenzie River northbound down the entirety of the Willamette. Many of the upriver vessels are fishermen though hunters also use the river and have access to the same areas as campers. This results in the occasional surveillance device intended to monitor our wild neighbours that can unintentionally be installed in prime pooping grounds. Campers should be warned to take a good look around before commencing their morning ablutions to protect the emotional health of the camera's owner. Cricket has just realized I've left without her and she's uh she's off to check on my well-being. Dense cloud cover takes hold over central Oregon. Preparations need be made for what is to come. Here we go. Due to the weather tonight rather than cooking on the fire like we usually do we are having some of these on-the-go meals which are actually really really tasty. So we're just waiting for those dehydrated meals to absorb all the water and then we're going to feast. My thermarest has a blowout as you can see down there. Now if I'm remembering correctly I think I bought this thing pre-2000s making it no less than 25 years old so it's a piece of equipment that's been with me on many adventures most of my homeland and a lot of places beyond the seas on different continents and so it is here in the Americas after two and a half decades our partnership is finally coming to an end. And while we're punching through a somewhat icy headwind it's only light but a headwind nonetheless it's a 12 mile journey today to Ash Island. Ash Island on the left is mostly private land utilized for agricultural purposes. The upstream tip like the sanctuary is owned by the Willamette River Keeper and the side channel has a nice albeit very small campsite tucked away on the water's edge. This tranquil side channel possesses some very fishy qualities with plenty of weed and structure. It is an icy morning so we're trying to get out a little bit early because we want to beat the wind like what we had yesterday but it is freezing and we're all struggling a little bit. are to enter what's called the Newburgh Pool. The river becomes deeper and wider with very little current to assist the paddler. The more stable nature of the river allows for housing alongside the banks with the majority having personal docks. Hundreds of them stacked alongside one another on this lengthy session. With so much private property there are few places to even stop and the paddler is committed to pushing through for many miles. This area is reported to be very busy in the summer months with power boats and other water activities though this time of year we find it pleasantly quiet. Well after the lively current we enjoyed upstream this has been quite a slug of a journey so far. Wilm says it's like paddling through syrup but we caught a glimpse of the i5 that we saw when we dropped the disco off in Oregon City. Means we're closer to where we need to be. The civilized world is closing in fast and camping opportunities scarce. We find a gravel bar in the vicinity of Malala State Park for our final night. We're sharing our accommodations with a few yellow malala bushes some nightshade and horseweed. There have been signs that things might be fishy and Cricket is determined for one last angling trip in the canoe. Despite the promising look of the stream and the occasional fish splash their efforts are not to be rewarded on this day. There was a big fish ripple wasn't it? And waves just to see it in. Our decision to terminate the expedition at this point was due to three logistical problems where the benefits were outweighed by the negatives. The first being the Willamette Falls mile and a half down river. Behind that cluster of buildings is a series of locks allowing boaters to navigate the falls without dying but are currently not operating necessitating the need for a lengthy portage. Better suited to a more minimalist style of traveler than us. From the base of the falls it's around 26 miles through Portland down to Kelly Point and the confluence with the Columbia. This stretch should be better suited to one or two day trips as camping opportunities are unlikely to exist. Lastly is the pickup as leaving a vehicle overnight at Kelly Point might be considered ill-advised. So here at the mouth of the Tullatin River ends our 17 day voyage of 150 miles down the Willamette.