A LEAK Offshore | Sailing across the South Atlantic | Sailing Florence Ep.13

Atlantic Explore
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#sailing #yacht #ocean #SouthAtlantic
STORM bound then FOG bound drifting and BECALMED, we finally sail out into the trade winds only for the BILGE ALARM to go off at 3am. 500 miles from anywhere we are taking on water mid ocean. The start of this South Atlantic Ocean passage was not an easy one.
We have been sailing around the world for 6 years after setting off from England in 2016 on board our 37ft sail boat Florence. Join us as we share the highs, lows, and challenges of travelling around the world by boat, Sailing offshore across the Oceans and exploring remote locations with our own little tiny house. Boat life out at sea on the ocean and off the grid.
It is never smooth sailing when you're trying to cross an ocean.
We're currently stuck here in Walvis Bay in Namibia.
We're trying to find a weather window to escape and sail out across the South
Atlantic to St Helena Island but we currently got over 30 knots here
at anchor inshore and it is a hell of a lot worse
out to sea and we do not want to be out there right now.
The trouble is that once these strong winds have blown through the forecast is
for zero wind along this section of coast
so we have to decide between too much wind and too little.
We've already been waiting here for a couple of weeks and we don't want to
wait here for another week and a half to see
what might come after that big area of no wind so what we're going to try and
do is sneak out in the area of shifty
unstable wind between the strong winds and the no
wind area. If we can get far enough north and
offshore in the first three days then we should
be able to pop out into steady trade wind conditions for the rest of the 1200
mile voyage to St Helena Island.
But right now it is impossible for us to even get ashore to check out with
customs and immigration and reprovision the boat so we actually
not only need a weather window to sail across the ocean
we also need a weather window just to get ashore get some food
and check out.
We are Matanami. We have spent the last six years sailing our 37 foot sailboat
Florence around the world. In that time we have crossed three oceans
over 36,000 miles have passed under our keel
and we are now closing in on our goal to complete our circumnavigation.
Before us lies the Atlantic Ocean which we will now cross twice
in order to reach the shores of England once more.
To get from here in Namibia to the Caribbean means sailing across 5,600
miles of the South Atlantic Ocean. But in the middle of that ocean lies
the island of St Helena. Its position on the trade wind route from
Africa to the Caribbean means it has been an important rest and
reprovisioning stop for sailing vessels since before the 1700s.
It is like a motorway service station on the ocean and along with using it as a
rest stop we hope to get ashore and explore this
unique island. We managed to find a small gap in the
weather to make a quick trip ashore to check out and grab some fresh provisions
but the bad weather confined us to Florence to anchor for the next two days
as we waited for the wind to subside. We're about as ready as we're ever going
to be to leave. The forecast is still not
looking ideal but we're both keen to go.
Yeah the boat is completely covered in sand it's ridiculous
and the boat is also getting thrown around as you can see in the background
I think we're rolling this is not the most
comfortable anchorage in the world. Yeah it's kind of one of those places
where you think if we're moving around like this and we're not
getting us enough sleep we we may as well be doing that at sea.
Normally most of the time we've been setting off to places we set off when
it's calm and today it's been really windy this
morning we were getting 30-35 knot gusts this morning so that's why the
boat's getting thrown around from the leftover swell.
So we're not both feeling as calm as we normally are. I'm feeling a bit
nervous. Yeah this passage I don't think is
notorious it's not certainly not one that we felt nervous
in the lead-up to but just the the conditions
that we've had over the last couple of days and the forecast not being
ideal means that I think we're both feeling a bit nervous it's the
longest passage we've had in a while as well. For a long time yeah
but a few butterflies in the stomach just means it's a proper adventure if
you didn't have any butterflies in stomach it wouldn't be a proper
adventure. The trouble is that we could stay here and
and no better window appear and all the while
the boat's just getting absolutely covered in the Namib desert.
We're both ready to go so let's go. So it's time to go.
Right let's go.
Not so bad after all. Oh it's beautiful. It feels so good to be sailing again.
The motion through the waves is much better when we're actually sailing
through them instead of anchored and rolling with them.
So we've got about well actually that's a 27 knot gust so it's still pretty windy
but we've got Florence Reef down two reefs in
the main two reefs in the genoa so she can cope
was when we started. Very little wind out here just enough to
keep us moving at three knots. Beautiful sunset. A nice gentle start.
Hopefully we won't run out of wind and we can keep going through the night.
Well as you can see this morning the wind has disappeared.
In fact we've been struggling to make even two knots for most of the night.
We knew this was going to happen and now we've just got to hope that we can
get to through this really light patch to the
trade winds that should be on the other side of it. So
in about an hour's time we'll get an update to the
weather model so we can download the latest forecast and see what it says.
I'm hoping it's going to show that even at less than two knots
we can just plod along and wait for the wind to come to us.
But if this if it looks like this wind hole is going to expand out from the
coast we may have to turn on the engine to get ahead of it and get into those
trade winds before the wind hole expands and swallows us up.
We knew it was going to be light winds when we set off.
That was going to be the problem trying to get through the light wind patch and
we prefer that to dealing with too much wind. It's much more
comfortable in light winds at least even though we've been going slow it's been
really nice and comfortable on board. Beautiful sailing, beautiful night skies
and a really nice introduction to the passage.
Once we get into the trade winds it should be a bit more boisterous already
going to get some bigger waves from the side which is going to throw us around a
little bit. So it's sort of make the most of this
light and gentle stuff rather than getting frustrated by it.
But doing two knots does mean we're going to do 48 miles
a day. It's like less than half walking pace.
It's quite ridiculous really. Later that day
the wind picked up a tiny bit so we're gliding along beautifully over the calm
sea. It feels so good to be out here the
sailing conditions we couldn't ask for better really it's just incredible nice
fairly flat seas enough breeze to fill the sails and keep
us moving and we're just both feeling elated
to be out here and to have an empty horizon
and hundreds of miles ahead of us it's just such a good place to be.
It doesn't really matter how many times we've set out on a long passage or an
ocean crossing and we get caught up in that kind of
pre-stress of leaving and you're constantly thinking about what
you could have forgotten what could go wrong
have you picked the absolute best weather window
and it's it's not a really nice time to be honest when you're
getting ready for an ocean passage there's a there's a lot of anxiety and
that doesn't really go away no matter how many crossings I think
you've set out on and and then you just leave and you leave all of that
behind and it feels so good to be out here.
Before we started sailing around the world I used to wonder what it would be
like to lose sight of land and and to me that
was previously kind of an anxiety inducing
moment but now it's one of the things that I
look forward to the most it's it's one of my favorite bits
of ocean sailing is is getting to that point where we lose sight of
of land and there is nothing on the horizon I love it.
Well here we are out in the South Atlantic Ocean
and it's a beautiful day out here sea state's pretty steady despite it's
still making us roll around a bit because we're going
almost dead downwind but this is what we have to do when we're at sea
we have to do this a couple of times a day is we get a wind shift and we have
to change the sails so we've been sailing along overnight
and most this morning with the wind coming over this quarter of Florence
so that's catching it nicely with all the sails we've got
set at the moment but now we've had a wind shift and we need to now sail along
with the wind coming over that quarter of Florence which means we
now need to change all of the sails over to the other side and most of that
one of us can do by ourselves so we don't need to wake the other
person up but changing this pole over to the other side
especially when the boat's rolling it's much easier and safer to do with two
people so for that I've woken Amy up from her
mid-morning nap and then this will take us about 20
minutes maybe half an hour to change everything over
and then Amy can go back to bed again and I'll go back to keeping a lookout
until it's time for my afternoon nap this afternoon
first we release the preventer on the mainsail
then we pull the mainsail in hard so that we can keep it under control as we
steer through the gybe once we have gybed the mainsail we swap
the preventer onto the other side and attach it to the mainsail again
the preventer prevents the mainsail from accidentally gybing across the boat
and means it is much safer for us to move past it on deck
that's the mainsail done so now we can furl the genoa
with the genoa furled we can take the pole in
now the pole is out of the way we can gybe the staysail
this is the simplest job just let one rope out
and pull one in on the other side that's the staysail done
so back to the genoa we need to swap all of the ropes that were holding the pole
across onto the new side once he has swapped the ropes over we can put the
pole out on the new side finally we unfurl the genoa onto the
pole and we are done that is until the wind shifts again of
heading back towards africa it's not intentional but
the wind has completely died and we've been drifting
unfortunately drifting in the wrong direction
we're totally surrounded in fog we have been for
a lot of the night and it's very wet and as you can see
quite cold on deck we could motor and we'll probably have to for a couple
of hours at least just to charge the batteries because they're not going to
get any solar power we can only carry enough
fuel to motor about four or five hundred miles
but we've got 876 to go and if we were to use all of that
diesel up we'd have to fill it up by a jerry can in st helena it's quite a
difficult process and it costs £2.25 a litre
so we're not doing that so i think we're gonna drift
for a little bit longer and wait for the wind
well it looks like we've just escaped that fog bank we were drifting around
with all sails down for a couple of hours
we're in the fog bank for a link four hours since amy swapped over watches
with me this morning and i thought it might take until late
afternoon for us to get some wind but it's lunchtime
and we've just popped out that fog bank into beautiful blue skies
flat water 12 knots of breeze and some awesome sailing
now hopefully what should happen now if this is the true breeze we're expecting
is it's currently coming from slightly in front of us it should shift around to
come more from the side and then more from
behind and then we'll pick up speed and be making really good progress towards
st helena and hopefully this should be us in the wind for the
rest of the way now it's a lot warmer now we're not in the
middle of the fog bank don't need like four layers
having reached the steady trade winds with florence making good speed towards
the island of st helena it was all going a little too smoothly
africa is 500 miles that way the tiny island st helena is 730 miles
that way and we've sprung a leak it always
happens in the middle of the ocean happened to us halfway across the
atlantic we had a thousand miles behind us and a thousand miles to go
and we sprung a leak then now this time it's not crazy we're only taking on
somewhere between half and one liter per hour
so nothing that the bilge pump can't cope with but
not something that we can just ignore because
it could get worse so we've been through the
seacocks and everything in front of the boat we can't really tell where it's
coming from yet and we've discounted those they're not
leaking at all discount the water tank i don't think
it's i don't think it's the water tanks in the boat it could be i tasted it and
it didn't seem really salty but it didn't seem really fresh so i couldn't
really tell which it was there are some jerry cans of water in
here which could be leaking that could be it
um or we've got a couple of other seacocks in the lazarette here which
so now i've got to empty everything out lazarette
and then everything down to cockpit locker and just track down where it is
i mean even if we can't fix it we need to know where it's coming in from so it
does suddenly get worse and we can make some decisions about
what to do because we are in the middle of the ocean i guess
as far as the eye can see you've got a beautiful
sea as far as the horizon there is no one else out here there are no ships
we're out of radio range of anyone so we have to fix this
just because matt said we're alone out here we were then suddenly
on a collision course with this ship he's luckily changed course a little bit
that'd be a good thing if we were sinking yeah we would have obviously
been very happy to see them if we'd have been taking on more water than
than we are and there's water in the bottom here
okay well looks like this might be the culprit
oh that's all right i think i found the source of the leak
this pipe oh yeah exactly uh it's supposed to be connected to
the drain that goes around this hatch and it's just
not attached there's quite a lot of water down below and so
what i think must have happened is it didn't matter when we were leaving
walvis bay and it was all calm and then as we've got into the trade winds
overnight we've been having a lot of water on decks we've been charging along
at seven knots heeling over and slopping around and a
lot of water's been going down the side of the deck and draining through this
hatch and obviously it's all been funneling
straight into lazarette but because florence doesn't have a clean run of
bilge there's lots of ribs in here there's various compartments
which are about yay high which it's clearly been cascading down
to and i can tell that because the lower ones are more empty than the
top ones if you know what i mean it's definitely started at top and gone
downhill and and then gradually it's overcome
those ledges and gone into the bilge forward and
and even though we've not got water on the deck at the moment we're still
gaining water in the bilge because as we're rolling
it's just slopping about and eventually going over each rib
at least that's my theory at least that's definitely one source
of a leak okay so this is the pipe that's come off
and this is the drain where it's supposed to go onto that comes down from
the surround around the cockpit now i guess i probably should have this
bolted to the bulkhead somehow so it can't get knocked off
uh well you live and you learn or at least you do if you don't sink
what you can't see is that as we're rolling back and forth i'm having to
hold odds and just not get thrown about it's a
lot more difficult doing these sorts of things when you're at sea
i think what's happened is as we've been rolling something in lazarette has just
moved and hit this and the hose clamp's not been tight
but there's not space for two hose clamps on that everything that goes out
the bottom of the boat or is below the waterline has double
hose clamps on it um but that isn't well that's not as bad
as i feared so i've got a big bailing out job to get
all the little nooks and crannies in here dry it all out
obviously fix that and then bail the bilge out one more time
and then fingers crossed it'll stay dry
one of the things that we find difficult to share when we're sailing
is the motion of the boat and the perspective of where we are
at sea and the best way to do that would be to fly our
drone we've only got a little mavic air and launching and recovering that at sea
from a moving boat is really difficult and obviously there's
a high risk of us losing that drone over the side and it's our only one
but since we left cape town we've been using this which
is insta360 one x2 combined with a three meter long selfie stick and
we've been getting some really good results with this it allows us to
achieve drone like shots without the risk of flying the drone
the software that comes with it automatically removes the pole from the
shot to be honest before we got this we were
a bit skeptical about it but now after months of using it we would
not be without it we can use it in any conditions without
worrying and we're constantly finding new angles to capture with it
both at sea and on land
once we have shot the footage on the 360 degree camera we take it off and we put
it into the software that comes with the camera
on the laptop this allows us to transform it from a 360 degree view
into a standard view that we can use in the videos that we make
we can choose where within 360 degrees we point the view that we want to see
we can zoom in and out and we can also dynamically choose different angles at
different times in the video clip and the software will automatically smooth
out the transitions between those angles for us
once we have manipulated the view to get what we want we export the video clip
and load it into our regular video editing software
where we add it to the clips from our main camera from our drone
from our gopros sound from our various microphones and voiceovers
to make the videos that you watch on youtube we hope you've enjoyed the new
angles we've been able to get with this let us know what you think in the
comments below the video and if you want one of these for
yourself there is an affiliate link in the description below the video
next time we encounter squally conditions as we sail florence on
westward across the south atlantic ocean and we reach possibly the biggest
milestone of our entire voyage so far
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