Alpine & Mountaineering: 4. Snow Travel - Chopping Steps | Climbing Tech Tips

There are times in the mountains when most of the terrain will be on rock. This is typically in late summer, or in the fall, or lower elevation alpine areas following a lean winter. Often times you may opt to not bring crampons, but still carry a lightweight axe. When you are faced with a section of firm snow, it pays to have practiced the art of step cutting. Step cutting, or chopping steps, was the technique used by guides in the Alps prior to the development of crampons for alpine climbing. The axe is swung uphill, creating two steps. You will then take two steps up and repeat the cutting. You'll want to cut one step higher first, and then a lower step. Swing your ice axe to create a platform in the snow for the ice for the upper step first, and then for the lower step. The amount of swings and force you use depends on the firmness of the snow or ice. You don't want to over swing and fracture the snow all around. Swing with an arc, using the adze portion of your ice tool or ice axe to create just enough purchase to set up and reset for your next swings. Remember, you will be moving into an out of balance step, and then back into an in balance step when you move twice. Always chop your step from an in balance stance. Please see our climbing tech tip video on snow climbing to review proper climbing steps.