Deciphering symbols and secrets, each new episode in the A.B.C.Dior podcast series examines and explains the codes shaping the House of Dior. By moving from pure audio, this highly-illustrated video format allows for a full immersion into the House’s history and heritage, offering fascinating insights for the viewer into the founding couturier’s own life, the friends who surrounded him, outside influences, and the work of his successors right up to the present day. This new episode explores the letter ‘I’ for India, a country whose heritage and artisanal traditions have served as an endless source of inspiration for the House since its founding. From Christian Dior to Maria Grazia Chiuri, the various Artistic Directors have sought to highlight the great diversity of Indian culture and savoir-faire, as featured in this captivating sonic journey in the name of dreams and creativity.
A. B. C. Dior.
A. B. C. Dior invites you to explore the letter I,
which stands for an evocative new destination, India.
A country that has been a source of fascination since the house was established.
From Christian Dior to Maria Grazia Chiuri,
the successive creative directors have showcased the richness of its culture and savoir faire.
In his very first collection, Christian Dior highlighted that country's treasures
with an haute couture ensemble named Andienne.
A few years later, for Spring Summer 1953,
he interpreted the sari with a design named Benares.
In April 1962, Marc Bohan designed a hundred looks
that would be unveiled in two Dior fashion shows,
the first in Mumbai, followed by New Delhi.
In 1989, for his final collection, L'année des Indes,
Marc Bohan elevated the impact of traditional costumes and colours to new heights.
Wrap-over chiffon sari shirt dresses and embroideries like Indian mosaics
provided a frontierless visual journey to the enchantment of the Taj Mahal.
This admiration would grow even more under Gianfranco Ferre,
who had lived in the country for a period in the 1970s,
with his own final Dior show, for Autumn Winter 1996, named Passion Andienne.
The names given to the haute couture designs speak for themselves.
From Maison to Maharani,
they resound with the sense of delight aroused by Indian historical treasures.
Reinventing the diversity of this artistic dialogue since her arrival in the house,
Maria Grazia Chiuri has regularly collaborated with the Chanakya Atelier in Mumbai.
Close friends for more than 30 years,
Karishma Swali, creative director of Chanakya,
and the creative director of Dior Women's Lines,
share the same taste for excellence and the desire to preserve a comprehensive craft – embroidery.
With a combination of heritage and innovation,
they explore the wide-ranging techniques of this compelling art form
to embellish and enhance Dior collections and shows.
For her Spring-Summer 2020 Haute Couture show,
she called on the talents of the Chanakya School of Craft,
which educates and supports Indian women by offering them a new autonomy in local communities
and by promoting the acquisition of skills such as hand embroidery.
The craftswomen participated in the creation of scenographic textile elements
by the feminist artist Judy Chicago.
In another collective feat, this time for the Spring-Summer 2022 Haute Couture collection,
an unprecedented example of monumental textile art
from the studios of Madhvi and Manu Parekh and realised by the Chanakya Atelier,
also wrapped the walls of the show space.
The embroidered works of these two key figures in Indian art
were also highlighted in an exclusive exhibition,
which opened in tandem with the Fall 2023 show.
Testifying more than ever to the deeply held and cherished bonds uniting Dior with India,
this show took place at the historic Gateway of India in Mumbai.
The majestic arch had been fronted by a monumental installation,
inspired by the decorative Indian wall hanging, known as a toran.
In turn, the poetic looks combined the shimmering allure of Indian style
with the essence of Paris couture.
A colour block sequence in silks echoed Marc Bohan in its sophisticated evening coats,
joined by trousers, boleros, jackets and bras.
Geometric forms were framed in silver sequins or rhinestones.
Enhanced with Indian landscaped seams,
the toile de Jouy motif was revisited in a kaleidoscopic of hues.
The jardin indien floral design in turn decorated silk pyjamas, shirts and dresses.
In an exquisite addition, the model's beauty looks devised by Peter Phillips
added extra grace and elegance to this stylistic journey.
To accessorise this collection inspired by India,
I chose to emphasise the eyes with a dense, smoky look,
illuminated by a wet effect that gives it mystery and depth,
the creative and image director of Dior Makeup explained.
Eyes in myriad shades of black,
complemented by a very pure complexion and natural lips
to impart the ultimate impression of refinement.
An incredible creative odyssey following a dream itinerary,
from Paris to Mumbai.
Escapism infused with excellence.