Kesi — also known as “Cut Silk” — is a rare and refined form of traditional Chinese silk tapestry, celebrated for its intricate patterns and time-intensive weaving techniques. Originating over 2,000 years ago in Suzhou, Jiangsu Province, Kesi holds a revered place in China's cultural heritage and is officially recognized as a National Intangible Cultural Relic.
Once prized by emperors and scholars, this ancient art form is now experiencing a revival. A new generation of Chinese designers is breathing life into Kesi, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern fashion and global luxury — even earning recognition from brands like Hermès.
From the historic Silk Road to today’s fashion runways, Kesi continues to embody the spirit of Chinese artistry, resilience, and innovation.
The floor lamp Klaus Fan Wenyan created won him the title Star of Tomorrow
at the International Furniture Design Competition earlier this year in Milan.
It's made of innovative material developed out of cut silk.
Memory silk is a kind of new material we've developed.
We blend metal and silk together to make the whole new fabric.
It can be shaped and reshaped according to your intentions.
Our innovation has been based on ancient handicrafts.
First appearing in the Tang Dynasty,
the popularity of cut silk tapestry reached its height during the Ming and Qing Dynasties.
For its extremely detailed pictorial designs, lightness and clarity of double-sided pattern,
cut silk products were especially adored and used by imperial families.
Unlike continuous weft brocades,
each color in cut silk is woven from a separate bobbin,
making the style both technically demanding and time-consuming.
It was actually introduced to China from Western Asia along the Silk Road.
Then the ancient Chinese added their creation and innovation
and lifted the technique to a new level.
So I always regard cut silk as a fruit
out of the collaborative wisdom of the people along the ancient Silk Road.
Fan started to work for Alchemist Paris in 2004
after graduating from the Art and Design Institute of the Mulhouse University.
An experience there led him to recognize the necessity
of reviving the Chinese traditional craft.
The biggest harvest I got in Hermes is the idea of inheritance and innovation of old crafts.
At that time, Hermes' products partly originated from Vietnam's lacquerwares
and India's leather weavings.
I then asked my boss,
why aren't there any styles of Chinese crafts?
He told me that there were serious problems of copying in China,
which was not good for the protection of our products.
These words sent a chill to my heart.
It made me recognize that I should come back to China.
There are so many excellent traditional crafts in Suzhou alone.
We should show the world our culture.
Fan Weiyan's designs break the traditional form of dragon, flower and bird subjects.
The ink painting featuring southeast China's landscape
and music scores of the song Jasmine Flower
could both be vividly presented in his cut silk works.
When encountered with difficulties,
Fan turned to some old craftsmen for advice and guidance.
Frequent home visits and consultations in person
have gained him some of the best knowledge preserved for the craft.
I told him that in order to do well in cut silk,
we need great patience and perseverance,
but what's the most important is savvy.
Fan Weiyan is leading his team to explore a wider application for the cut silk craft.
They have broadened the boundaries of its utility,
bringing to life some custom articles of home furniture and other items.
The designer noted that innovation means better inheritance,
and to preserve the cultural relic with the power of designing is his responsibility.
Sun Wei, CGTN
