16 Overcoat Do's & Don'ts - Gentleman's Gazette

Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette! In today's video, we discuss the 16 overcoat do's and don'ts so you stay stylish and warm through the colder months of the year. Rule number one and that's very dear to my heart, don't just buy the same black boring overcoat that every other man out there has. Black in my opinion is quite overrated especially for overcoats because it shows every little hair and dust back and you just blend in. At the same time, an overcoat gives you the opportunity to really stand out from the crowd and so I urge you to maybe consider other colors such as brown, tan, maybe mixes and we'll talk more about it later in the video here. Two, do look for longer overcoats. By that, I mean something that covers your knee because you stay warmer that way and traditionally it's a very classic look that won't go out of style anytime soon. If you go to a department store these days, you will find lots of shorter overcoats because that's the current fashion, at the same time, it won't stand the test of time and it makes you cooler. The proper overcoat length can be very flattering to your look and it should be proportional to your height. If you're a shorter man, go with something that is knee length or slightly shorter. If you're a taller man, go with something knee length or slightly longer. If you're of regular height, just go with something around knee length. If you watch old movies, you can sometimes see men wearing overcoats that reach all the way down to the ankle and while that keeps you warmer, it definitely has a very stodgy old world look and in my opinion, it makes you look less attractive. Three, do opt for 100% natural materials in overcoats. Unfortunately, even expensive overcoats these days are often blended because it makes the fabric less expensive and thus more affordable or increases the profit margins of the manufacturer. While polyester and nylon fibers can make a garment more durable, they're not as insulating as natural fibers such as cashmere or wool or alpaca and because of that, I'd stay clear of them. They also don't age as well and so 100% natural materials will always be your best bet. Personally, I'm a huge fan of 100% wool for overcoats because it's heavy, not too expensive, it doesn't absorb water, and it keeps you warm. Cashmere is really nice and soft to the touch, however, for overcoats, it's mostly too lightweight and so I find it not to be warm enough for the colder days of the year. Four, don't buy an overcoat with a zipper. Yes, you can see them in ski jackets and functional jackets with cord tags but an overcoat is a classic garment that is stylish and as such, you'd go with buttons. In case you go with a duffel coat, you can also have wooden toggles but you can learn more about that in our duffel coat guide here. Yes, it's true that single-breasted overcoats are the norm out there but double-breasted ones make you stand out from the crowd and on top of that, they keep you warmer because they have two layers of fabric on top of each other versus a single-breasted just has one layer because it's a button in the middle. If you opt for a double-breasted overcoat, make sure it has peak lapels because that's a classic style or an ulster collar which is also appropriate for BB overcoats. Definitely stay away from notch lapels and double-breasted overcoats because it makes it look like from the 80s and it's just historically incorrect. Six, don't forget the hat. An overcoat is great to be worn with a hat because it keeps you warmer and because it's a classic garment that is stylish, a hat always works well together. For a darker, more formal overcoat such as the one I'm wearing here right now in gray with a black beveled collar, a fedora is the ideal choice. Alternatively, you can also go with a homburg hat and you can learn more about that hat style in this guide here. If you want to be a little more casual, I suggest you go with a flat cap or a newsboy cap and if you need to be really warm, you can opt for something that covers your ears such as maybe a sheepskin hat. Personally, I live in Minnesota where the winters get really cold but fortunately, I haven't had to resort to those kinds of hats yet. Seven, do wear a boutonniere or a pocket square with your overcoat. If your overcoat has a buttonhole on the lapel, you should wear a boutonniere because it's very stylish. If your lapels have buttonholes on either side, always wear it on your left. If your overcoat has a chest pocket, you can also wear a pocket square. Ideally, only if it's a traditional chest pocket. If it's flat, I would not wear a pocket square and of course, if there's no pocket, you can't wear a square but that goes without saying. Eight, don't buy an overcoat that is too large and baggy because it makes you look unattractive. First of all, determine how you want to wear your overcoat. If you do want to wear a jacket underneath, make sure you have enough room in your overcoat. Ideally, bring a jacket when you try them on and make sure you have enough space in the shoulder area and in the upper arm, in your sleeve, otherwise, you can end up with a roomy coat in the torso that is just too tight in the sleeves and that limits your range of movement. Otherwise, in terms of fit, the same principles apply as they do in jackets so I urge you to check out our guide on how a suit should fit here. Nine, do look for striking yet classic details. No, I don't want you to wear bright orange reflective overcoats, however, I urge you to consider maybe an interesting weave in the fabric such as on this one here where you can see it consists out of gray, black, and blue and because of that, it's super versatile because it can wear with all kinds of suits in those colors. Also, it has a black velvet color that really changes the look of the entire ensemble. Alternatively, you could also go with a bold pattern, a classic would be a herringbone and it can definitely be oversized. Don't get something that is too small, you can wear it for a suit but not for overcoats. You can also go with epaulettes, ankle pockets, maybe cuffs, or whatever you like, they're all classic details and it's just fun to play with them on an overcoat. Ten, don't buy overcoats that combine the styles of different overcoats because they will look dated very quickly. Designers often want to add a little twist to their overcoat and so they start mixing patterns and details from traditional overcoats. Most of the time, they look just weird. For example, if you have a trench coat, it should be made out of a cotton gabardine. If you start making it in a wool fabric or in leather, the look is just very unadvantageous and makes you look like someone from the 80s or 90s. Eleven, don't be afraid to invest a little money in a good quality overcoat because it's something that will last you longer than a suit most of the time and you'll also have to buy fewer of them. It's going to be a lasting investment and you really want to find something that drapes well and flatters you because you can combine it with your entire wardrobe. Twelve, do consider vintage overcoats. Personally, I love vintage overcoats because they have heavier fabrics that drape really really well and on top of that, they have interesting color combinations such as the coat I'm wearing here right now. In fact, most of the overcoats in my collection are vintage and this one with a bold herringbone pattern and a belt and an ulster collar, I actually found for five dollars at a flea market. It's really heavy, nice, and warm and I always get compliments when I wear it. So wherever you are, keep your eyes open. Thirteen, don't wear an overcoat with casual attire. If you want to wear your sweatpants, maybe go with a quilted jacket or a hoodie and leave the overcoat at home. Mixing those two elements just show, oh, I want to dress up but at the same time, I don't and it just makes you look odd. The same is true for accessories such as baseball hats, they simply wouldn't go with an overcoat. Fourteen, do look for heavy fabrics in an overcoat because they're much more forgiving, they don't show wrinkles as easily, and they'll keep you warm. Today, a fabric with 14 to 19 ounces or 420 to about 570 grams is considered to be heavy. Back in the day, that was almost a lightweight overcoat and typically, you could find some in 28 to 30 ounces or 850 to 900 grams. Fortunately, the cloth finishing today is much better so fabrics are softer which is nice but that doesn't help you if you don't stay warm when it's really windy and cold outside. If you pick up an overcoat, it has to feel substantial and heavy. If it doesn't, I suggest you leave it behind. For the same reason, I'm not a huge fan of cashmere overcoats because in 98% of the time, they're just too lightweight. I know there's a heavy version out there, I think from Loro Piana, and if you can find that, it might work out but of course, it also depends on what kind of climate you live. Fifteen, don't show any cuff on an overcoat. If you've been a regular follower of the Gentleman's Gazette, you've likely encountered our sleeve length guide. If you haven't watched it yet, please do so now. With regular suit jackets or sport coats, most men want to show a little bit of their shirt cuff. With an overcoat, that's not the case. You want it to reach all the way down to the beginning of your thumb. That way, it covers your entire jacket and it gives a little room to move without letting in the cold air. At the same time, you don't want the overcoat sleeve to cover your thumb otherwise, it looks too long and like something you just borrowed from your older brother. Sixteen, do look for the little button in the vent area because when it's very windy, you can just close it and stay warmer that way. If you have a long vent and you don't have a button, an alterations tailor may be able to add a hidden buttonhole as well as a button so you can apply that. Last but not least, a bonus tip, if you wear an overcoat, try to add classic accessories such as a scarf or gloves. Sometimes, we live in a very mild climate that may not be necessary but most of the time, you definitely want that. Opt for dress leather gloves, not your ski gloves, and go with nice cashmere or wool or alpaca scarves that keep you warm and stylish. For a selection of dapper gentlemen's scarves and gloves in various colors and patterns, please check out our selection here in our shop. If you enjoyed this video and you want to learn more about overcoats, please subscribe to our channel and hit that little bell so videos like this come right to your inbox. In today's video, I'm wearing a classic Paletot style overcoat from Chesterberry which is double-breasted with six buttons, two of which are buttoned, and two of which are decorative. It has regular flat pockets, no chest pocket, but buttonholes on my lapels so I can wear it with a boot in the air. The one you can see here is the Edelweiss which is one of our most popular lapel flowers. The buttons are made of a dark brown horn which are natural and suit the formality of this coat. Apart from the interesting 100% wool fabric which consists of colors in charcoal gray, blue, and black, something that really stands out is the black velvet collar. Even if you have a solid overcoat, it's definitely something you can add after the fact and it really changes the entire look and perception of the garment. As you can see, the overcoat reaches below my knee which is classic, elegant, and keeps me warm. It also has a little button in the back which I can close if I want to. For my pants, I'm wearing warm dark brown corduroys. On my feet, you can find Balmoral oxford boots with a cap toe in black which are lined with fur and that way, my feet stay much warmer. Because of that, I also opted for a rubber sole which provides more grip and works better on salty, wintry roads and sidewalks. The scarf is double-sided in silk and wool from Fort Belvedere. It has a burgundy base with tones of blues and orange and it works quite well with my overcoat. My hands are kept warm by petrol blue lamb nappa gloves with a cashmere lining by Fort Belvedere which you can find in our shop here just like the scarf. My hat is a vintage felt fedora from the German company Weiser. I had added a contrasting headband and although it's navy and my collar is black, it works really well with the overall ensemble because of the different blue tones and gray tones and black tones in my overcoat fabric.