WHY WE SURF DANGEROUS PIPELINE, RISKS VS. REWARD

Alright, welcome back to this delivery guys. Day 2 of the Dahui backdoor shootout. And pipe is as good as it can possibly be. Pipe and backdoor. It's like 10 to 12 feet. First reef, my style of pipeline. Any pipe surfer's dream to be out there with three other guys. And if you guys could like this video, subscribe to my channel. Every like helps, every subscriber helps. The videos are doing great right now. All thanks to you guys. So thank you for watching. Really appreciate it. Comment what you guys would like to see in the future. We got a good season ahead of us still. We're like halfway through winter over here. Our surf season. But you guys gotta go check out Celsius. My energy drink sponsor. Literally best energy drinks in the world. Love them. This is their new flavor. Lemon-lime. Links in the bio. Check it out. Oh my god. It's not coming out. It's as good as pipe can be. I'm heat 6 again. Last night we picked heats again after day 1. And we got the same exact heat, heat 6. I'm currently somewhere on the leaderboard. It's not going to matter until I go surf again because there's people ahead of me. So all I know is I need a couple tens. This event goes up to 12 points. So you can get past that. Past the 10. So there's a 10 and if a better wave comes through there's an 11. And if a better wave comes through than that you can get a 12. So as soon as a 10 is given out there can be 11s and 12s. So it's really cool. You never lose either. You get to surf pipe. A couple guys out. It's the best event ever. My favorite event. A lot of people's favorite event. There's no stress. There's no pressure of losing in that heat. You get one heat. A lot of people travel all over the world to get one heat somewhere and then lose. Which is cool. I like that style of surfing a lot. Watching it. But me personally, I'd rather be able to surf a bunch of times in a format like this. Better my scores. Get another chance to get a good wave. I'm really excited. It's as good as Pipeline can get. I'm going to slap this Celsius and get my boards ready faster than anyone's ever got their boards ready. 80s boards. Let me know what you guys think about those too in the comments. I'll show you all of them. Bob. Dad. What heat is this? Trying to figure out what heat this is. How long are the heats? 32? 32 minute heats. Are you ready? Always ready, Brock. That's good. Never not ready. Backdoor Wave's calling it. It's game time. Subscribe to the channel. Like this video. Love you guys. I need to win this event. Won it before, I can win it again. Good day. Surf. Will this paddle be good? I don't know. Too easy. What's the score? 10? 10.5 That first wave though is going to haunt me forever. The first wave, huh? No, your wave is f***ing awesome. I remember taking off being like, I don't give a f***. I'm not falling. My toes got so gripped down, I just got wide. I was like, I don't care. I'm not f***ing falling. Oh, look at this wave. It's the best wave I've ever seen. And there's no one out. I'm so glad I got redemption now on the next one. I fell on that first good one. Because the heat started right as the wave came in. Right when the horn blew. I was watching the guy in the first heat before me. I was like, oh, is he going? Then the horn blew. I was like, oh, it's my turn. With that, I was just like three to five feet too deep. It would have been even crazier than the one I got. But then luckily I got back out and got redemption. I got a sick wave. And I got really pounded on a couple more. You got all your talent from your mom, man. I think it was a 10.5, right? 10.6. Added a point. Kawa Grace, one of our good friends, just got pretty f***ed up. One heat ago. Man, yes. I think he's okay. I ran down the beach. Luckily there were a lot of lifeguards and professional lifesavers down there that saved him. Pulled him out of the water. He got knocked unconscious. Big gash right here. And I seen him. He was unconscious at first. And then came to. Like he had gotten knocked out and was coming back. And he was just throwing up water. He said a couple words. He was bleeding. Yeah, Kawa, I hope you're okay. I'm so sorry. Just stay strong. And Billy, yesterday. First day of the event. Billy almost got knocked unconscious, pretty much. People forget how gnarly this wave is. This wave has taken more lives than anywhere. And we're so lucky that our ability to save each other has gotten so much better as well. Because now people are getting brought back to life from being dead. We've seen it multiple times. Yeah, jet skis and people with knowledge on how to save lives. Thanks to our lifeguards, Hawaiian Water Patrol. Everyone who's watching and on it. It's crazy. Pipe is gnarliest. It's the gnarliest wave in the world. It has reminded us now. A heavy, heavy wave. A dry, solid reef. It's like if concrete had pillars like this. Just pinnacles coming out. And caves. Just like cement. And a wave with so much force. Pushing you straight down. And there's this much water above it. It's just drawing all that water off. Especially when it's this big. I mean, these are my pipe days. This is the kind of pipeline I love. As big as First Reef can handle. It's the best I surf at pipe. But it's also the most dangerous. And it's dangerous on a small day. A little backdoor, a little pipe. So gnarly. I hate seeing the strongest people you know in your life. Almost helpless for a moment. It's just like... Like Billy and Klaue. Warriors. My brother earlier, right before Klaue. Over the falls. Blew his helmet off. Everything. Picked up. Not unconscious. Thankfully it hurt his knee. But like... I was thinking about yesterday after Billy. I'm like, Billy is one of the strongest people I know. In my life. Watching him wipe out after wipe out. And to see someone that you know that's that strong. Like Klaue. Grace. What just happened to him. The strongest people I know. Are getting messed up like that. It's like... What's in the perspective? It's a trippy feeling. It's crazy. This wave is so gnarly. But that's why we risk it. For waves like this. Look at this wave. Are you serious? I'm up next. Look at this. Wow. It's time to get amped up. My friends. My brothers are okay. Now it's time for me to win the event. Let's go. And then we're going to send it. Guys. I'm going to go so big tonight. That my New Year's resolution is going out the door. My New Year's resolution was to not be hung over ever again. But I already gave up on it after today. I haven't drank in a while. It's time. One drink for sure. I'm buzzing. Heavy. Jazzy. Come out. I count that. Koa swinging. What's going on over here? Celebrating the victory. We don't know. Pretty good contest. Amazing contest. We don't know who's in the lead. I know. I got to be somewhere close up there. But I do know I got the highest wave score. Of the event. Which wins like five grand for sure. I know I'm close. I'm pretty high up on the leaderboard. I think this is some of the best pipeline I've ever seen. It is. Today was the best pipe I've ever seen in my entire life. 100%. I've never seen that many good waves come through. I count that. I've seen like one a day. Two a day. Three a day. But then to have like. Almost every heat. Best wave ever at pipe. It's crazy. It's a good squad. We got a big family here. Brain free Koa. Billy too. Billy's with him right now. He got hurt yesterday. He's doing okay. Makua hurt his knee. Yeah. Everyone's here. Supporting. Oh what happened. That's stupid. Big spitter. He's a lifelong legacy over here on the dark shore. Made to surf. And he's just living man. His name is Koa Rothman. Congratulations. Uncle Terry and Uncle David Statt. Awesome job you guys this year. Three days of competition. We had amazing waves. And we elevated the sport of pipe and backdoor surfing. Thanks you guys. Thank you. I'd just like to turn on the bus man. I want to thank everybody. Volcom. For letting us use their house. Their yard. We want to thank Moku and Coral. For letting us use their house. And yard. It was really cool. I want to thank everyone from the Huiohe'inalu. Most of all Mahita Chillingsworth. She put this thing together. I'm going to cry man. So I want to thank everybody here. Aloha, mahalo, and imua. Let's go. I'm going to be grilling arms. Double team it. Microwaved hot dogs. Are you going to go there? I'll microwave them yeah. Poke some holes in the microwave. We had this thing where he soaks them in mayonnaise first. Marinate. And then you slice them to make it look like nice sprinkles. You can't show anyone how you marinate your hot dogs. Oh my god. Dude. There's going to be a bunch of people there. Can you not fit a snack with just that crew? I should show up with a bowl of hot dogs and mayonnaise. And don't say anything. Don't say anything. Set it in the food. Did you try my dish? Keep them frozen. Cut up mayonnaise. I'm doing it. People are going to die. We back huh? I just landed back. I'm so afraid. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten. What are you going to do with your winnings? Give it to Jack Germain and throw a party. So what would you do with 5 grand? Well, here we go. I used that audio in this clip. Well, I would spend it all in one place. About 35% of that is going to taxes, IRS, defund the IRS. Defund the IRS. Oh God. Yeah, you can fit on this side, Jack. Okay.