魯本斯 魯本斯 | 未曾謀面的東亞人

艺术与设计史
50粉絲
3 次觀看·2025年9月6日
J. Paul Getty Museum's collection contains two works on paper
that foreground the global world in which 17th-century Flemish artist
Peter Paul Rubens lived and worked.
On the left is Rubens' black and red chalk drawing
of an East Asian man wearing opulent robes and a transparent headdress,
and on the right is his oil sketch
of an elaborately turbaned black African man portrayed at bust length.
As a court artist and erudite diplomat
who travelled extensively throughout modern-day Europe,
Rubens participated in many cross-cultural exchanges.
He often depicted in sumptuous detail
the famous courtiers and wealthy merchants he met on his travels.
But in this lecture, I explore the implications of less direct encounters
and how Rubens responded to printed images
and luxury goods imported to Europe from afar.
In particular, I discuss how Rubens
incorporated this fragmentary information into his own imagery,
appropriating the clothing and physiogamies
associated with distant lands
to promote religious and political agendas back home in Antwerp.
Rubens' depiction of an East Asian man
is by no means a quick, small sketch.
The cascade of shimmering silk robes and the headdress
that allows light and air to pass through it
are meticulously rendered on a large scale.
The tightly cropped figure with a piercing gaze
in the immediate foreground can phase a forceful presence.
The cast shadow at right, together with the rosy red cheeks,
ears and lips, further animate the figure.
Outlines of a merchant ship are visible in the distant background
at left, along with two faint undulating lines
behind the figure, evocative of the shoreline.
These details allude to maritime travel,
but they do not help identify the origins
of the individual or his attire.
The first recorded guess at this figure's identity
appears in the 18th century, and it was incorrect.
The drawing was then owned by the English collector
and painter Jonathan Richardson, Sr.,
whose collector's mark appears
in the bottom right-hand corner of the sheet.
The sale catalogue of Richardson, Sr.'s drawings,
sold at auction on January 22, 1746,
gave special notice to Rubens's work.
In the midst of a vast list of untitled drawings
by Rubens, Bernini, Titian, and Raphael,
Lot 41 is described in detail
as a portrayal of a Siamese priest by Rubens.
Richardson's 1746 inventory listing
thus established and publicized
the figure in the Getty drawing
as a priest from the Asian nation of Siam,
modern-day Thailand.
The Siamese identification
offered in Richardson's sale catalogue
was given new emphasis and a wider currency in 1774
when Captain William Bailey
made a print after the Getty sheet.
As an amateur printmaker, art dealer, and connoisseur,
Bailey made reproductive etchings
of well-known Dutch, Flemish, and French artworks
in English collections,
transforming unique objects into images
that could be reproduced and disseminated widely.
Bailey embellished Richardson's
earlier Siamese identification
with an inscription at the bottom of the plate.
Quote, the Siamese ambassador
who attended the court of King Charles I,
Rubens made the above-described drawing
just before he left England on 1636, unquote.
Thus, Rubens's design and the Siamese identification
entered wider circulation together.
As Rubens's drawing changed hands
among several generations
of British and Czech aristocrats,
the Siamese identification
survived unquestioned for nearly 200 years.
But this accepted fact stumbled in 1935
when a scholar took it upon herself
to see whether a Siamese embassy
had actually visited the English court in 1636.
It turns out the answer was no.
Furthermore, from depictions of a Siamese embassy
to the court of Versailles in 1686,
it was determined that Siamese diplomats of this period
wore conical headdresses that were not transparent.
This brief history of the early identifications
of Rubens's drawing served as an important reminder.
Inscriptions on works of art,
especially those applied by Europeans
to images of foreigners,
can perpetuate ignorance about other cultures
instead of documenting understanding.
Rubens's drawing then became associated
with a group of four others by the artist
depicting Jesuit missionaries wearing Chinese robes.
Three of these four drawings
portray the important Jesuit leader
of the Chinese mission,Nicholas Trigo.
Closest in style to the Getty drawing
is one of Trigo wearing floor-length silk robes
with wide sleeves and a tall four-corner headdress
that Rubens executed in black chalk,
red chalk and blue-green pastel.
This drawing seen here at left
is on a paper stock
similar to that of the Getty sheet
and with approximately the same dimensions.
Trigo's name appears in Latin
on the bottom left of the sheet
along with the date of 1617.
Unlike the Getty drawing
in which Rubens emphasized
the dynamic flow of fabric
rendered the numerous pleats,
scintillating highlights
and the voluminous quantity of opulent fabric
encircling the figure in an extremely vivid manner,
the drawing of Trigo articulates the folds
and the shimmer and the sheen of the silk
in a more matter-of-fact style.
This sense of reportage
conforms to the drawing of Trigo's function,
a study recording clothing
donned by the Jesuits in China.
By the late 16th century,
members of the Catholic religious order
called the Society of Jesus or Jesuits
were actively proselytizing in China.
They were also the most prolific writers
about Asian peoples, customs and clothing.
For all of their dedication and devotion,
however, the Jesuits made little progress
until they realized that a better way
to convert the Chinese to Christianity
would be to infiltrate
the Ming Dynasty's governmental structure.
To this end, they mastered the Chinese language,
donned the long silk robes
and tall four-corner hats
worn by Confucian scholars
and let their beards grow long.
The long Latin inscription in Rubens's hand
on the upper right of the Trigo drawing
records this factual information
about the Chinese scholar's attire.
The inscription states that however sumptuous
Chinese clothing donned by the Jesuits
must not offend the emperor
by assuming his exclusive
imperial color of yellow.
It also mentions the Jesuit effort
to fashion a variant
of the Chinese scholar's costume
that was specific to their order.
What is important to pay attention to here
is that when Rubens had specific knowledge
of East Asian costume,
he made note of it on his drawings.
It only takes a quick comparison
of the two drawings to observe
that the figure depicted
in the Getty Sheet
wears a different type of garment
than Trigo.
According to Korean costume historians,
the voluminous overcoat
with a low waist, pleated skirt
and long sleeves
depicted in the Getty Sheet
resembles the cholique
worn in Korea by government officials
up to the 18th century.
The numerous folds of the silk robe
especially visible in the underskirt
appear to have been created
by small gatherings of pleats
at the waist, characteristic
of a Korean cholique.
The bunched sleeves
shown in the Getty drawing
are also typical of the cholique,
which has much narrower sleeves
than the robes worn
by the Jesuits in China.
In addition,
the transparent headdress
in the Getty drawing
resembles a Korean pangong,
an open headdress in a square format
woven from horsehair
and worn in Korea
by Confucian scholars at home.
In an attempt to understand
why Rubens depicted
Korean and Chinese costume
in the same series of drawings,
scholars have postulated
perhaps the figure
in the Getty Sheet
represents a Korean Jesuit
whom Nicholas Trigo
brought back with him to Europe
during a recruiting
and fundraising mission
from 1613 to 1618.
No documentation has been found
of any Asian Jesuit
accompanying Trigo to Europe, however.
Surely, if a recent convert
from the little-known kingdom of Korea
had traveled with Trigo
on a publicity tour,
his novel presence
would have been worth mentioning,
especially by the Jesuits themselves,
as was commonly done.
The association of the Getty drawing
with Jesuit missionaries in China
was overshadowed by another,
more popular identification
proposed in 1983.
Immediately after the drawing
was acquired at auction,
a reporter from the Korean News Review
postulated that Rubens's figure
was a portrait of Antonio Correa,
a formerly enslaved Korean man
thought to have resided in Rome
around 1606.
This identification
is based on a travel account
written by the 16th-century
Florentine merchant Francesco Carletti.
There, Carletti claims
that he bought five Korean men
at the Nagasaki slave market in Japan
for a low price.
After having the enslaved Koreans
baptized, he took them
to the Portuguese colony of Goa
in India and set them free.
Later in his text,
Carletti states
and I quote,
I bought one of them with me to Florence.
I think today he is found in Rome,
where he is known as Antonio Correa."
Carletti's mention of Antonio Correa
in his travelogue
certainly does not prove
that Rubens drew a portrait of him
when the artist traveled to Italy
from November 1605 to October 1608.
Typically, Rubens drew
a detailed study of the sitter's head
when making the portrait.
A brief look at the Getty drawing
makes clear that the head
was not the artist's main focus.
Furthermore, while in Italy,
Rubens was primarily preoccupied
with copying famous
ancient Roman sculptures,
as well as compositions
by Michelangelo and Raphael,
as many Netherlandish artists
before him had done.
During the age of Rubens,
European knowledge of the distinct
customs and clothing of Korea
was virtually non-existent.
Until 1594, when a world map
showed Korea as a peninsula,
European merchants described Korea
as, quote, an island above Japan
with no certainty concerning
its size, people, nor what trade
there is, unquote.
This lack of specific knowledge
is further indicated by
the first account of Korea
published in Europe.
In 1653, a Dutch East India Trading Ship,
the Spareware, was shipwrecked
on Jeju Island in Korea.
The survivors were taken hostage
and remained in Korea for 13 years.
Upon their escape and return to Europe,
a member of the party,
the Dutch merchant, Hendrik Hummel,
published an account of his captivity.
Hummel's 1668 text conveys
that European understanding
of Korean culture
was by no means straightforward.
It is clear from his description
of the shipwreck that Hummel
had no idea where he was
when the ship landed.
Judging from the clothing
worn by the soldiers
who took him hostage,
Hummel assumed he was on an island
inhabited by Chinese pirates.
Note here the slippage of identity
between China and Korea,
a common mistake
in 17th century Europe.
Upon the return of Hummel
and his compatriots
to the Dutch East India Company
post in Nagasaki,
Dutch merchants describe them
as being, quote,
dressed in a wondrous way
with a boat of a strange fashion,
unquote.
Apparently, seeing Dutch men
in Korean clothing
struck the other merchants'
positioned overseas dumb.
I dwell on this point to emphasize
that when Rubens made
the Getty drawing around 1617
back in Antwerp,
its viewers would have mostly
regarded the attire
as markedly foreign
but not specifically Korean.
Although there is evidence
of East Asians working on
Portuguese and Dutch ships
that came to and from Europe,
there have been no documents
found as of yet
discussing any Korean
or Chinese people
who settled in the city
of Antwerp.
It seems worthwhile to posit
that Rubens simply based
his drawing on imported silk robes
in a horsehair headdress,
the very focus of the drawing itself.
In the early 1600s,
Antwerp was known throughout Europe
as a city where expensive
luxury goods imported
from all parts of the world
were traded, collected
and depicted.
Some of these goods
came to Antwerp from Spanish
and Portuguese merchants,
but others arrived
worn on the backs
of Jesuit missionaries,
as we have seen in the drawing
Rubens depicted of Trigaud in 1617.
Through his connection with Trigaud,
Rubens clearly had access
to the Jesuit supply of artifacts
imported from abroad,
a collection that may very well
have included Korean robes
and headdresses.
It is entirely possible
that Rubens's Jesuit patron
acquired Korean attire in Beijing
during his visit there in 1611,
or perhaps in Macau,
China's trading post
on his way back to Europe
in 1613.
Korea had a tributary
relationship with China,
and three times a year,
Korean and Chinese merchants
traded in Beijing.
It also stands to reason
that Trigaud,
or one of his European recruits,
could have modeled
Korean garments for Rubens
and spurred the artist's fascination
with the never-before-seen attire.
The Getty drawing signals
an artist mesmerized
with unfamiliar clothing.
Every crease and fold,
every shimmer and sheen
was considered worthy of attention.
Rubens was so concerned
with his portrayal
of the cascade of folds
that the legs and feet
assumed secondary importance.
The left leg stops short
of the bottom of the page,
though the sheet does not appear
to have been cropped at a later date.
The strange truncated calves
may instead register
the artist's lack of knowledge
about what would have been worn
underneath this sumptuous robe.
Rubens presented two options.
On the right, voluminous leggings
that echo the vortex
of swirling silk robes above.
On the left, a completely bare calf.
This fascination with one aspect
at the expense of another
also occurs in the depiction
of the headdress.
Rubens was clearly captivated
by a porous headdress
that allowed light and air
to pass through it,
but he was not as interested
in its structure.
He did not employ cross-hatching
to suggest that the headdress
was made of woven horsehair.
Instead, he used
delicate parallel hatching
to heighten the sense of transparency.
Rubens also did not depict
what was typically found
underneath transparent headdresses,
the long hair wound up in a topknot.
Instead, the Flemish artist
introduced wisps of short hair
protruding from a headdress
and a conical-shaped inner cap
inventing his own covering for the head.
Entirely removed from the culture
to which the novel silk garments
and horsehair headdress belonged,
Rubens fashioned the attire
to his liking.
In this vein, his drawing presents
his idea of an East Asian man,
not a portrait of one.
Commonplace in Rubens's time,
reductive stereotypes
about East Asian physiognomy—
high cheekbones, flat noses,
heavily arched eyebrows,
and deep-set elliptical eyes—
are found in written descriptions.
These generic facial features
also appeared in illustrations,
such as those of the Chinese
found in Johann Theodor de Bruy's
illustrated book,
India Orientalis,
of which Rubens himself owned a copy.
Adding subtle touches of red chalk
to the cheeks, ears, and lips,
and giving this figure
a direct confrontational gaze,
Rubens animated the staged stereotypes
to make this man appear more lifelike.
Following artistic standards
of his day,
Rubens made paintings and drawings
that evoked a powerful immediacy.
But the immediacy of this image
in no way guarantees
that Rubens actually met
an East Asian man
and drew his portrait.
I show you as a comparison
to the Getty drawing,
a painted portrait
that Rubens made around 1613
of Mullah Ahmad,
the Hafsid Muslim ruler of Tunis.
With a meticulous handling
of oil paint,
this portrait conveys
the glistening olive skin
of a ruler of northern Africa.
It even shows the moistened eyes
of his watchful gaze.
Given how lifelike
this portrait seems to be,
it may be surprising
that it was not made
in front of the ruler.
Instead,Rubens based his portrayal
on a print made after a lost portrait
painted nearly a century before
in 1536 by another Flemish artist.
Thus,even with all of its believability,
Rubens's portrait of Mullah Ahmad
artificially documents an encounter
that the artist did not have.
Was it convention alone
that made Rubens portray his man
in a Korean costume
in such a lively manner?
The reappearance of the Getty figure
in Rubens's Miracles of St. Francis Xavier
facilitates a partial answer
to this question.
Executed for the high altar
of St. Charles of Borromeo Church
in Antwerp,
this monumental altarpiece
with its life-size figures
portrays a synthesis of miracles
performed by the Jesuit missionary
in Goa.
In 1541,
the first Jesuit,Francisco Xavier,
arrived in Goa,
where he proselytized
among its diverse population.
Rubens portrayed Xavier
with his acolyte
standing on an elevated plinth
while his miraculous deeds
unfolded simultaneously beneath him.
In the painting,
Xavier raised his left hand,
pointing to the source
of his divine power
in an allegorical figure
of the Catholic faith
holding a chalice
and carried aloft by angels
in the clouds above.
Below, amid the gaping mouths,
poignant tears,
and outstretched arms,
some less dramatic conversions
also take place.
Rubens placed a multiracial group
of men in the center
of the composition,
representing priests
from diverse non-Christian faiths.
Among these men is a figure
whose robes and headdress
resembles those
in the Getty drawing.
Rubens adapted
his solitary subject
from the drawing
to fit into a complex
religious narrative.
No longer shown
with a ship in the background,
here he is crowded
with other non-Christians
awakening to the Catholic faith.
When Rubens began his painting,
the Jesuit missionary
had not yet been canonized
or even beatified.
It is most likely
that the Jesuits commissioned
this grand altarpiece
full of drama and incident
as a propaganda device
to popularize Javier
and fast-track his canonization.
Accordingly,
Rubens's Jesuit patrons
appeared to have
carefully supervised
the artist's depiction
of the saints' miracles.
Rubens first presented
the Jesuits with a small
oil-sketched medallo
illustrating his
compositional ideas.
The medallo shows the clerics
wearing Turkish turbans
and caftans.
It appears that
the Jesuits in Antwerp
wanted Rubens to make
specific reference to Goa
by depicting a variety
of clothing and hairstyles
they actually thought
could be found there.
Rubens thus eliminated
the figures in Turkish garb,
substituting in their place
priests wearing an array of attire
that distinguished them
from their Jesuit counterparts,
including one wearing
a transparent horsehair headdress
and a gold-yellow silk robe
modeled after those
in the Getty drawing.
In Rubens's painting,
the depiction of unfamiliar clothing
establishes a hierarchy of faith.
Rubens portrayed Javier
dressed in a somber black habit,
indicating to Catholics in Antwerp
his higher moral authority.
In contrast, he showed
the non-Christians dressed
in brightly colored robes.
Compared to Javier
and his classicizing drapery
that conforms to his purposeful stance
and his dynamic rhetorical gestures,
the priests of other faiths
are arrested in their movement
with their vibrant robes
encircling them.
Rubens depicted them
awestruck and powerless
while Javier commands
the divine light
to strike down the pagan idol
in the temple above them,
signaling the literal collapse
of their world order.
Placed in the Jesuit church in Antwerp
before Javier was canonized,
this huge altarpiece
was intended to encourage
mass belief in the miracles
the Jesuit leader had performed in Goa.
Given its propagandistic mission,
the painting had to be convincing.
It was Rubens's job
to create a believable portrayal
of the missionary Francisco Javier
and his power to persuade
those of other faiths
to convert to Catholicism.
In the Getty drawing,
one detects Rubens's initial encounter
with imported attire
and senses the artist's
fascination and effort
to describe the unfamiliar.
There is no room
for this mode of careful study
in the propagandistic altarpiece
where the man wearing
traditional dress reappears.
In the painting,
the exoticizing garments
become a way to identify
a convert from a distant shore.
To this end,
Rubens altered the pose
and the details of his original figure.
He is now shown in profile
gazing up in awe at Javier
and bearing witness
to the missionary's
miraculous power to persuade.
Among the crowd of converts,
the Getty figure gains legs and feet
as well as leggings and boots.
The transparent headdress
gets structural support
and appears woven.
The face becomes more individualized
with a mustache and a goatee.
In so far as these features
are different in the painting,
the Getty drawing is not
atypical preparatory study
for the altarpiece.
Instead, it functions
as an independent study
that was used to inform
the depiction of a non-Christian priest
in the altarpiece.
While Rubens was occupied
commemorating the Jesuit missions
in China and Goa,
he took a pause to consider
Asian people on the other side
of the globe.
Who were these individuals
the Jesuits were trying to convert
and what might they look like?
How might their clothing
differ from what the Jesuit missionaries
wore themselves?
This imaginative turn
seems to have been inspired
by a first-hand encounter
with never-before-seen
robes and headdress.
Rubens portrayed his man
in Korean attire
in a tantalizing, credible manner.
He portrayed him
the way 17th-century Europeans
most likely would have imagined him
as wondrously different from themselves.
Rubens's central role
in promoting the Catholic faith
in the city of Antwerp
and his depictions of people
in clothing from overseas
to enrich his religious narratives
inform another work
in the Getty's collection
that this lecture can only begin to explore.
In the recently acquired study,
Rubens used oil on paper
to envision in more detail
the head of King Balthasar
for a larger painting
of the Adoration of the Magi.
According to the Bible,
Magi from the East
traveled to Bethlehem
to present the infant Christ Child
with gifts of gold, frankincense, and myrrh.
Medieval tradition held
that the three kings
paying homage to Christ
came from Africa, Asia, and Europe
so that all continents of the world
then known to Europeans
acknowledged Christianity
as one true religion.
By the 1600s,
Flemish paintings of the Adoration
reflected the widely held belief
that Balthasar, the youngest king,
was from Africa
by representing him as a black African.
The biblical story
of kings traveling from afar
to pay homage to Christ, the newborn king,
resonated in Catholic Antwerp,
Rubens's home city
and a center of global trade.
Around 1609,
when Rubens was in his early 30s
and had recently returned to Antwerp
from an eight-year sojourn to Italy,
he received an important commission.
The mayor of Antwerp
contracted him to paint
an Adoration of the Magi
for the city's town hall.
This large painting
was intended to create
a symbolic setting for the room
where the 12-year truce
between Spain and the United Provinces
of the Northern Netherlands
was signed on April 9, 1609.
Antwerp, located in southern Netherlands,
belonged to an empire
ruled by Catholic Spain.
The importance of this truce
cannot be underestimated
as it was an attempt to end
an 80-year war
between a small conglomeration
of rebellious northern
Netherlandish provinces
and their Spanish Habsburg overlords.
Rubens's monumental,
multifigured painting
embodied the explicit hope
that global trade
would continue to flourish
in the mercantile city of Antwerp
when the peace was finally restored.
Rubens used this oil sketch
to refine the facial expression
of Balthasar,
who occupied a central position
in his large painting.
As was typical for the artist,
he first made an oil sketch
of the entire composition,
roughly blocking out
the placement of the main figures.
He then made subsequent oil sketches
and chalk drawings
to further refine the expressions
and poses of key protagonists.
A comparison of the black magus
in the larger preparatory oil sketch
to the head study of Balthasar
in the Getty's collection
shows the subtle changes
the artist made to his central figure's
gaze and expression.
Rubens further emphasized
Balthasar's gaze directed to the side
by carefully articulating his pupils.
He also refined the expression
intended to evoke the king's awe
as he witnessed the infant Christ.
Instead of gaping in astonishment,
Balthasar has a slightly parted mouth
that is more subtle in its expression,
reflecting the spark of recognition
that leads to veneration.
Painted on ledger paper
containing bookkeeping entries
in Italian and Flemish
that have yet to be deciphered,
the Getty's oil sketch
has script that permeates
the black king's bust, headdress and face.
This visible text indicates
just how thinly Rubens applied
the oil paint in certain areas,
adding to the sense of immediacy.
Rubens greatly worked up
the portrayal of the black king's
face and turban.
Grayish white highlights
model the figure's deep brown complexion
and are especially noticeable
on the left cheek, nose and temple.
A smooth application of brown paint
to suggest the sheen of skin
is enhanced by the rough texture
of the white headdress
that drapes around the head and neck.
Rubens used thicker strokes
of white oil paint over thinner layers
to accentuate dramatically
the folds of the turban.
The contrast of light, dark, rough,
smooth, thick and thin
creates a strong
three-dimensional presence.
Despite Rubens's
lifelike rendering of physiogamy,
this work was not intended
to serve as a portrait
in the conventional sense,
that is, an independent work
recording the likeness of an individual.
An important question remains
about who served as the model
for this study of Balthasar.
There are no documented visits
of African royalty visiting Antwerp
during the early 1600s,
but the city was home
to both freed black Africans
employed as servants
and black Africans
enslaved by Spanish
and Portuguese merchants.
Much more archival research
about the positions and rights
of these men in Antwerp households
is still needed.
Rubens and his workshop
relied on these individuals
to inform their portrayals
of black Africans,
as this example,
also in the Getty's collection shows.
In Rubens's head study for Balthasar,
a man with black African features
wears a turban that imitates
those traditionally worn
by Muslim kings from Tunis,
as shown here again
in the 1536 etching.
By transposing a turban
inspired by an earlier
pictorial source
with the physiognomy
of an actual person,
Rubens created a rendition
of the biblical character.
Toward this end,
it seems likely that Rubens
engaged a servant
or an enslaved person
to pose as an African king,
a role rich with irony.
As captivating and significant
as they are,
the Getty's two drawings
do not indicate a deep understanding
of faraway cultures
or shed light on the historical status
of East Asians and black Africans
who lived in Antwerp.
These works are not documents
of pure observation,
but creations based on inference
in imaginative recombination.
Rubens assimilated
the scattered evidence
and second-hand information
about distant lands
from his own perspective
and for his own purposes.
Important among these
was to convince his viewers
to believe in specific
religious and political narratives.
While his paintings
may have been more
public carriers of these meanings,
the earlier, more exploratory drawings
give unique insights
into how Rubens was actually
assimilating and transforming
the limited information
as it emerged
within a rapidly
interconnecting globe.
I hope I have provided
some insights into this process
and show how deftly he combined
depictions of unfamiliar people
and objects,
such as a horsehair headdress
or an elaborate turban,
all the while using
visual tropes of portraiture
from his own tradition
to forge cohesive
and persuasive images.
In these ways and others,
the drawings help
pull back the curtain
on broader, highly complex
intersections of power, faith
and race in the early modern period.
As windows into how
these relations were being
worked out in real time,
they are particularly rich sites
for critical inquiry
from a multitude of perspectives
in the future.
