Enku's 120,000 Smiles over Gifu - Journeys in Japan

Roughly rendered, with a benevolent smile that penetrates straight to the soul. These manga-esque figures embody Japanese gods and buddhas. Their creator is Enku, a sculptor monk who is believed to have carved an astounding 120,000 of them. Here I am in Seki City, Gifu Prefecture. You might already know Gifu for places like Shirakawa-go and Takeyama. To really understand this region, you need to dive deep into the story of Enku, a remarkable figure from the 17th century and the deep-rooted spiritual traditions here. This is Mirokoji Temple, where Enku spent his later years. You are greeted by statues carved by Enku's admirers. Enku has a special place in Japanese culture even today. But why is that? Well, let's travel across Gifu Prefecture to discover why. This time on Journeys in Japan, actor Jonathan Sr. trails the beguiling man behind the statues and his enduring legacy. Enku has deep ties to three cities in Gifu, where he was born. Our journey starts in the Ikejiri district of Seki City, where Enku spent his later years. You have the Nagawa River. It's quite beautiful this time of day. I've arrived at Enku Museum, where some of his statues are kept. I wonder what else and what new things I can discover here. Wow, I didn't realize he also carved adorable wooden statues as well. This statue is the museum's most popular. When you look at the age of the back of the statue, you can see that the two are combined. That's how you can tell that it was made from the same tree. Wow, that's amazing. You can tell by the age of the statue. Yes, that's right. Enku worked quickly from inspiration, using wood found at hand, often single blocks. He celebrated the material's characteristics, its grains and knots. The story goes that after losing his mother, Enku joined the Buddhist monkhood to pray for her soul. It was later, after turning around 30, that his spiritual path deepened. He set off sojourning, walking in eastern and northern regions to reach faraway Hokkaido. Around 5,400 of his statues remain mostly in temples and shrines along the way. It's different from what you see here, isn't it? Yes, it is. If you look here, you can see that the face is carved very beautifully, while the body is carved roughly. It's very Enku-like. It's very artistic, isn't it? Yes, it is. It's artistic, but it's a statue, so it's a symbol of the faith of the people. The face is beautiful, and it makes you smile. Enku is known for rendering gods and buddhas with a simplicity that resonated with the people. Gujo's Minami district, near Seki, is where Enku likely completed his first piece. I've heard that Enku went through some intense training, and in this town there's a fascinating place connected to it. So I've asked a local to show me around. Ah, there's even a replica here of it. Tanaka Seishu, who was born and raised here, is an amateur Enku scholar. I'm Tanaka Seishu, and today I'd like to introduce you to the Enku rock. Thank you for having me here. There's a deer. Yes, there's a deer. It's here, isn't it? Yes, it is. Enku did some training here. I wonder what kind of stuff he practised. Please be careful of your feet. This is the Enku rock. Wow, it's amazing. It's big, isn't it? Yes, it's much bigger than I thought it would be. Did he practise something here? Yes, Enku is said to be one of the main practitioners of Buddhism in the mountains. The master carver monk was also a shugenjya, a practitioner of a unique Japanese belief system called shugendo. To reach enlightenment, shugenjya undergo ascetic mountain practices, such as fasting, to acquire spiritual powers. Shugendo teachings are a mix of mountain worship, esoteric Buddhism, and Shintoism. Through this, Enku became deeply knowledgeable about the deities and buddhas, and this enabled him to carve his pantheon of figures. About 40 kilometers east of Enku-iwa is Gero Onsen, considered one of the country's top three hot springs. Oh, you can see there's a bit of a hot spring over here. Ah, so warm, perfect for the winter time. Enku stopped in Gero to train, spread his beliefs, and carve his divine statues. Gero oversees a village of gassho thatched homes. Wow, look at this place, the beautiful thatched roofed houses. I've heard there are some Enku statues here. Quite interested to see what ones they have. The figures displayed here are not only from nearby temples or shrines, but also from private homes. Oh, you can see that there's something written on the back side of the statue. See if I can ask someone about this. Sugiyama Nobuhito, a Gero native, is a member of a study group on Enku's works. Enku created pieces to heal and uplift individual people, communities, that meant each deity or Buddha he intuited might take on a completely different form. Shomen Kogo Shin usually has six arms and is trampling a devil. But Enku carved it in a pure, childlike way. The three-faced Shomen Kogo Shin statue is a unique piece of Enku's work. Sugiyama-san, what do you think is the best part of Enku statues? I think it's Enku's imagination and his smile, which you can see in all of his statues. His smile, I see. Not too far from where Enku used to train in the mountains. I'm sure even he used to come down to places like this and relax in the hot springs. Enku lore has been passed down in neighboring Gujo city as well. When the wayfarer came down to the village, he was received warmly and relaxed in a soothing bath. Hoshinomiya Shrine is not far from the Enku Iwa. The master carver left his creations here as well. Enku's mystique endures. Workshops teaching his techniques are held by Tanaka Seishu, Jonathan's guide to the Enku Iwa. You're good at this. No, I'm not. I feel the same way as Enku-san. I'm going to share the wood that I don't need anymore. That's great. I think I might be a little better than I am now. But if you keep doing it, you might be able to do it like Enku-san. Excuse me, what are you working on now? I'm carving a Benzaiten. It's a little finger. It's pretty big. Yes. It's cute. The shape is also beautiful. Not yet. Not yet? Were you interested in this from the beginning? Enku-san's smile really suits my feelings. I wish I could have that kind of smile. When I'm carving, I feel like I'm being sucked into this. Enku's presence is felt intimately in the Minami district. During his time, many artisans called Kijishi lived here. Kijishi, using their deep knowledge of trees from local forests, crafted functional goods like tableware using lathes. A rumor has it that Enku, with his keen eye for the characteristics of wood and fine carving techniques, was the son of a Kijishi in Minami. Tanaka seems to have inherited Enku's spirit. After turning 40, he started carving statues of gods and buddhas. How many Enku statues have you carved so far? I think I've carved more than 3,000. 3,000? Yes. That's amazing. It's been over 35 years. What inspired Tanaka was an Enku statue that he encountered at a temple. This is the Buddha statue I saw at the temple. I was very shocked when I saw this. It was completely different from the Buddha I had seen before. In Enku's case, I think it was more important to add his own originality and show his own personality. I see. No matter how much I try to carve Enku statues, I can't get used to Enku statues. I want to show you the original Buddha using Enku's techniques. Enku was training here when he received an oracle from the god of Haksan, a sacred mountain of Shugendo. Enku's statues are where the buddhas reside and are the buddhas themselves. From then on, Enku is believed to have dedicated himself more than ever to creating figures to uplift the people. Some 25 kilometers north of Hoden Falls is Shirotori in Gujo. This place is said to be very important for Shugenja, practitioners of Shugendo. Enku may actually have visited here once. The Nagataki Haksan Shrine worships Haksan, the mountain that delivered the divine message to Enku. The master seems to have created sculptures here as well. You can see that there's something happening over here. I'm going to go have a look. This New Year's ritual prays for peace in an abundant harvest. It also expresses appreciation for the Shugenja's rigorous training. The festival highlight is the Hanabai. A participant clambers up to grab the good luck flowers and release them to the eager crowd. It's crazy. They're all fighting for those flowers. Over his face. Wow, how incredible. A fight for blessings. I'm sure even Enku would be amazed by this back in the day. This is Mirokuji Temple where we first started our journey. Finally, I've come back to pay my respects at Enku's grave. Wow, look at all the statues inside. This is the temple where Enku is buried. Why do you think Enku digs up the statues? Well, I think it's for the sake of saving the people. I don't think it's for the sake of those in power. I think it's for the sake of the people's happiness. So he really digs up the statues with his heart. Yes, he does. I think he digs up the statues with the intention of saving the people. That's wonderful. Yes, it is. Most of the statues carved by Enku have these gentle smiles. I was also struck by the freedom of his work. Seeing them up close, I couldn't help but feel that those same smiles reflected the faces of the people he met along his journey. Enku had such a deep empathy for everyday people, particularly those in vulnerable positions. And I think it really shows through his statues. There's a kindness and strength in his work that's truly timeless. And I think that's why people have loved these statues for so long. I'm sure there are many more Enku statues across Japan being cared for. And who knows, maybe I'll come across them again one day. To reach Seki, take a shinkansen from Tokyo to Nagoya, which takes one hour and 40 minutes. It's another 90 minutes by train or bus to arrive at the gateway of your journey.