Making a BT50 Tool Holder for SIP Jig Borer Tooling! | Shop Made Tools

How you going guys, Curtis from Cutting Edge Engineering. Today's job we're going to be making an adapter to go from BT-50 to our jig borer tooling. So that way we'll be able to use all of the larger boring and facing heads that came with the jig borers in our BT-50 machines. So after we did the tour of our Hydroptic No. 6 we did make mention that we were looking for extra tooling and any accessories that come with the jig borers. So we did get a lot of emails from all over the world about people that knew of tooling that might be for sale or it was for we did have someone in Australia reach out to us and they had a massive variety of tooling and accessories for the jig borers. So after a few phone calls they sent me some pictures of what they had and it was exactly what I wanted. After the deal was made I pretty much got straight in the car and I drove 13 hours down there in order to collect everything and I packed it all up put it in the ute and I brought it all home. But there was a lot more there than I actually first anticipated. So I ended up with basically an entire tool kit and accessory kit for the Hydroptic machine. In that kit I did get the two rotary tables that come standard on the machine plus the tooling cabinet which is very very unique to the SIP machines. I got that and a very big variety of tooling and it was all in pristine condition. And we also had a very generous viewer from Canada who did go to an auction and he purchased some shelving. In that shelving was SIP tooling so we did end up making a deal with that and he did ship it to us and I'm very happy that some of the parts that he had would mean that my boring and facing kit could now be complete. We also got a new optic screen for our Hydroptic and a lot of other accessories. Thank you Michael for that you've now completed one of my kits. So we now have a very big range of SIP tooling but because of the unique spindle nose that the Hydroptic machines have they don't fit conventional style machines. So this is your standard BT50 tool holder it also runs the standard ER40 collet system so they are very universal and versatile for what you can put in them to use them. And this is one of our boring heads from the SIP tooling and as you can see they do have a very unique style of the way the tool is pulled up into the holder. So it does have a very long arbor in it, it is parallel. There is also two flats machined in the bottom as the drive and there is a tapered collet that gets pulled up into the spindle to make these extremely rigid. One of the other methods you could use is you could just put an ER40 collet straight onto this arbor but that is not going to hold it very strong and it's not really going to be extremely accurate and you can't actually buy a holder that will convert it from something to the SIP tooling so we're going to make our own. And the main reason I'm making the adapter is so I can use this. This is a it's range is about 25 up to 500 millimetres in diameter and as you can see it is the hydroptic number six style holder. So I could go ahead and pull this apart and modify it to suit a standard BT50 holder. I don't want to do that because it is unique to the SIP machines. I would like to leave everything exactly the same. I could also go and buy a brand new Walhopter boring and facing head but they are extremely expensive, they're about $10,000. So the best option is to make up a holder that way I can use this and all of my other SIP tooling. So like all of my shop-made tooling I usually just wing that sort of stuff. I don't have any drawings, I haven't really made a plan, I just know what I want at the end of it. So that's how we're going to do it. And the piece of material I'm going to be using it is a scrap piece of 4140. It is 120mm in diameter and 250mm long. So before I can start machining the new arbor I do need to set the lathe up to the correct angle as possible I have machined a piece of material down to 25mm. I am using a brand new BT50 collet and I've also put a live centre up the other end of the BT50 arbor. I've then tightened that against it so everything should be running parallel and concentric. I can now set the compound to suit the the increments that are machined into the top of the cross slide because they are not correct. They are about 0.2 of a degree out. So what I'm going to do is use my dial indicator from the tool post over to the BT50 holder. I will then sweep across that face and make adjustments by bumping the compound around until it reads zero from one end to the other. Perfect. And then I can lock down the compound in place. I'll re-sweep across that to make sure tightening the bolts didn't adjust anything. Once that's done we've got our angle set. There are many ways you can set angles. You can use a sign bar kit or you can use a precision ground angle plate. I find doing it like this is just as easy. So we've got that dialed in to suit the Now I can take all this apart and put the material in the lathe. So the first thing I'm going to do, I am going to rough down the OD to within five around in the lathe. I'm going to drill and tap it to suit the drawbar bolt and then we're going half mil hole down through the end of it. And that will be for the bolt which is going to hold taper. Then I can machine it down to its maximum diameter and then cut the taper. Because I've got my compound set at eight degrees and my tool post only moves in fifteen degree increments, I'm just going to undo the tool out of the holder, bring it up to the face of the job, and I'm going to make that parallel so I can now machine into this corner. Righto, now that I've got that area cut to size, I'm going to reset my tool and start cutting the hit that taper with a scotch brite and see if I can get the surface finish to brighten up a little it out of the lathe and we need to set up the collar that fits onto the boring and facing head I can't just use my standard dial indicator, I am going to have to use a Mitchell Toyo test indicator because it will reach down inside where the big dial gauges can't do that. I will need to set it up on centre height so I'm not low or high. If you're low or high, you'll essentially be measuring the ramp of a tapered hole. So you don't want to do that, it needs to be on centre height. So I'm just going to use a centre drill in the chuck, get the dial set to the centre of the drill, and then I can put the collar back in there and sweep across the inside and set the compound to suit that angle. So you might notice the dial is jumping, that is because there is a relief machined in there. So I've got that running pretty much spot on, it is to within 0.01 of a mil, I don't even think you can measure that in banana increments. Now what I'm going to do is take out the collar, get the material set back up in there and we can start machining the other end. So I've roughed this end down, now I need to machine the taper. Now I'm going to use a 25mm cruz drill to drill a clearance hole up the inside of our adapter to suit the arbor for our set tool. Now I'm going to counterbore the end of the adapter to suit the collar on the bottom of the to set it up in the milling machine. I do need to machine the keyways for the drive dogs and the square drive in the bottom of the adapter. Because I'm going to be clamping it in a chuck, I don't want to damage a finished surface. So once that's done I can put it back up in the lathe and I can finish it off. Now that I've got the part set up I'm going to come in with an end mill and machine drive dogs in the spindle. Unfortunately I can't use my indexing head because the ID of the chuck is just far too small and I've only got about 10mm of the chuck jaws hanging onto the job and end mill, it's already chipped. Oh wow, hang on, hang on, hang on. What's this? Get it, get it, get it, get it. Ready? Stay. Get it, good boy. Righto, so that's all the milling done. Last thing I need to do is set it back up in the lathe to finish turning the OD to size but I will be machining it between centres because I don't want to try and hang onto any of the machined surfaces on the tapers because it would damage them. So quickly off camera I've gone ahead and machined up a drive spigot so I can how it came out. It looks really good except I am going to send it out to have a tough tried layer put on it just like our v-blocks, our tool post and all of our other shop made tools. It does look really nice like this but I think it'll look even better with a tough tried coating on it and it's not going to rust. So before we started making the adapter I did weigh the piece of material and it was 22.4 kilo. After all of the machining it is now 7.9 kilo so it has lost 14.5 kilo of weight. So now that it's completed we're going to check and see if it fits on the boring head. So that's our adapter and our boring head assembled. Really happy with how everything looks. Let's go test it in a machine. Righto, for those who haven't seen this yet this is our new to us Zaya BF3500 milling machine. It is a bed style machine so the bed moves left to right and the ram goes up and down and then in and out. So I've had this machine for a couple of months. This is a short-term solution for the end goal which is going to be our Huron milling machine. We do have quite a few jobs coming through where the Huron would be perfect for that but we found out the concrete floor in here is not going to be good enough to support the mass of that machine which means we are going to have to excavate and put in a proper foundation for it. We were hoping to just bore in some piers, set the machine up and use it. Unfortunately that's not going to work. The foundation for the Huron is going to be extremely expensive. Not only that it is going to disrupt the workflow coming through the workshop. So I got wind that the previous owner was going to be selling this machine. It was local so I was able to go and inspect it and it was exactly what I was looking for to solve my problem. So not only was it local and it was easy to get it here, the cost of this machine was actually a lot cheaper than just the foundation so we could set up the Huron. So for the time being this was definitely our best solution. It will be a stepping stone once we do get around to cutting a hole in the putting in a foundation and setting up the Huron. We probably won't need this anymore. So that fits in there really well. It's nice and rigid and it looks really good. If you're wondering why the adapter is so long it's because a lot of the cylinder eyes and parts that we do are quite thick and deep and running the extensions in the bottom of the boring heads it's not very rigid and you do end up having to do a lot of finer cuts in order to get it to the right size just because of the tool deflection where because I've made that extra long we're going to be able to just use a tool straight out of the side of the boring and facing head. So that means we're going to get the maximum rigidity out of the head and a really good product at the end. So now we've got it installed let's test it on a few different spindle speeds. So we're going to start it off nice and slow at 53 rpm. Now we're going to increase it up to 246 rpm. So far so good so we're going to wind it up to 1030 rpm. Really happy with how that's running there's no run out in it everything is running nice and true there's no vibration. Righto guys so that fits really well I'm really happy with how this turned out but you'll just have to stay tuned for a video when we're using it. Thanks for watching. Just let me go. Yeah go for it. Right where was I? I don't want to just leave the tooling on those machines I would like to use them in our BT50 machines. I'm saying machine a lot. So I would like to use them in the machines that run the BT50. And as you can see it does have the sip style hold. Ah ****'s on hold. And as you can see it does have the sip style. Fuck. Ah ****. Ah **** me. Fuck. Try again. Where are we going after that? Fuck off dragon. Now I'm going to counterbore the end. What do we call this? Now I'm going to drill a 25mm hole. Fuck off bird. So in order to make our new holder as accurate. Holder? Adapter? And 10mm work. Gotta get that shot mad more. Oh I thought you were going to come up against this face. Oh thank you. Great idea Karen. Really? I don't know. I was going to check the chuck. Oh yeah that's another option yeah. Ow. Little needles. Oh. Everywhere. Can I just check without the camera again just in case? No. If you're wondering why the, what are we calling it? Stay. Get it. Good boy. What you got? Hang on. Are you thirsty? Have a drink. That's weird. They do. They mimic that. I read that somewhere. Yeah? Yeah.