Isle of Harris. Scotland. A place of beauty and History

Ancient Europe: History, culture and Humans
93 followers
3 Video Views·Jun 3, 2025
Hi and after a few months break I would like to welcome you back to the channel.
Today we're visiting the Isle of Harris. The Isle of Lewis and the Isle of Harris are two
distinct regions of the same island, known collectively as Lewis and Harris,
the largest island in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland. Though they share a land mass,
Lewis and Harris are often treated as separate areas due to differences in geography,
culture and identity. Lewis occupies the northern part of the island and is characterised by
flatter terrain, extensive peat bogs and moorland. But we will take a closer look at the Isle of
Lewis in a future video, for this is about Harris which is in the south. It is more mountainous
and rugged with some of the most beautiful peaches I have ever seen. Harris is also renowned
for its production of Harris tweed, a hand woven fabric that is legally protected
and internationally recognised. When visiting Harris I would allow at least a day to take
everything in. I have heard of people visiting for just half a day and I'm not sure you can
rush visiting such a beautiful place. For starters, a first place to visit is tucked away in the
windswept southern edge of the Isle of Harris, St Clement's Church Rodale, which stands as a
powerful relic of Scotland's medieval past. With its stone walls and commanding tower, the church
is not just a religious building, but a symbol of the island's complex cultural and clan history.
Built in the early 16th century by the Macleods of Harris and Duneven, the church represents a
rare example of late medieval architecture in the Outer Hebrides, where stone churches of this kind
are relatively scarce. The church was commissioned around 1520 by Alistair Macleod, the eighth chief
of the clan Macleod. Unlike many of his predecessors who were buried on the sacred island
of Iona, this clan chief chose to establish a burial site within his own territory. In doing so,
he made a bold statement about power and legacy. His elaborate tomb housed inside the church
reflects this intent with its carvings and gothic detail and the life-size effigy. The tomb,
completed in 1528, is widely regarded as the one of the most finest of its kind in Scotland.
Portraying the chief in knightly armour flanked by angels and lions, the structure of the church
includes a cruciform plan with a square west tower. This is predominantly gothic with arched windows
and finely worked stonework that reflects the craftsmanship and resources available to a
powerful highland clan at the time. Despite its remote location, the church designed reflects
the wider European influences of the late medieval period. Following the Protestant
Reformation in 1560, the church fell into disuse. Like many Catholic institutions in Scotland,
over the centuries it was subject to the elements and various periods of neglect,
yet its resilience is notable. In the 18th and 19th century, restoration efforts,
most significantly led by the Countess of Dunmore in the 1870s, revived the structure.
The church suffered further damage when lightning struck its tower in 1907, but it was again
repaired and today it is maintained by Historic Environment of Scotland.
What sets this church apart, beyond its agriculture and history, is the atmosphere.
Perched on a slope above the Loch Rodell and overlooking the Sound of Harris, the church
commands breathtaking views that enhance its spiritual and emotional impact. The surrounding
graveyard, filled with weathered stones and clan markers, connects visitors to century of
stone carving depicted a naked woman with exaggerated and exposed genitalia, often found
on churches and other buildings across Ireland and Britain and parts of Europe. These figures
are typically positioned over doorways or windows, suggesting a protective or symbolic wall. These
figures are not extremely rare, but at the same time they are uncommon. How many there are, I
cannot say. I have heard figures of around 40 to 50 in Britain and there are a lot more in Ireland,
possibly around 100 documented. The exact origins of these are debated. Some scholars suggest they
are introduced by the Normans in the 11th century, while others argue they are earlier, possibly
pre-Christian Celtic roots. The meanings of these carvings are unsure, but there are several
prevailing theories, possibly to ward off evil spirits or death. Some view them as remnants
or pre-Christian fertility goddess symbols, symbolising life, death and rebirth cycles.
Others interpret them as cautionary images against lust, reflecting medieval Christian
attitudes towards sexuality. In contemporary times, these symbols have been embraced as symbols of
female empowerment and body positivity, inspiring modern art and feminist discourse.
The term of the Shulinagig first appeared in the 19th century, but its roots are unclear.
Various theories suggest it may derived from an Irish phrase meaning old hag of the breast.
I personally find these carvings, like the Green Man, so interesting that they're often found in
or on the outside of churches. Let me know your thoughts in the comments below.
There are other carvings, one of the Bull's Head, which is the meaning of strength.
There is also a carving of a man wearing a great kilt. And there is one other, hard to make out,
but when I was there I heard a great story, but can't find any proof, so likely to be just a story.
I was told the carving was a naked man. It seems that the Countess of Dunmore
was upset by the carving and shot the male part off.
This really is a stunning church to visit, and a lot of what we see today is all thanks
to Lady Catherine Moray, Countess of Dunmore, who's often cited as the driving force behind
the development of the Harris tweed industry in the 19th century. She is remembered, however,
by many, and including the Duchess of Sutherland, proclaiming her to be the mother to the people
in Harris. Born Catherine Herbert on the 31st of October 1814 to the extinguished 11th Earl
and Countess of Pembroke, aged 22, she went on to marry Alexander Moray, Viscount Fincastle,
later the 6th Earl of Dunmore, and proprietor of the Isle of Harris. Taking up residence in London,
the couple had close connection within the court circles, as Catherine was given the social
appointment as Lady to the bedchamber to Queen Victoria in 1841, while their children enjoyed
a privileged childhood filled with play dates in Buckingham Palace with the future King Edward VII.
A world away from the luxuries of court life, the coming years saw tormal and great difficulties for
the islanders of Harris, as they were confronted with a series of struggles, beginning with the
in 1843. The failure of the potato crops began only a year later, as blight swept across the
islands and many other things that affected this era of history. The Dunmores were faced with their
own personal problems, as in 1845 saw the untimely death of the Earl, leaving Catherine a widow with
three children and another on the way. This was a complicated and difficult time for the Countess,
as the Earl's death saw her inherit the island, leaving her in charge with the running of such
a large estate that was facing desperate times. This prompted her to take a more active interest
in the estate, as she resigned as Lady of the Bedchamber and took it upon herself to act as
tutor to the four-year-old heir, Charles. The Highland potato famines left the communities
destitute and starving, and Catherine endeavoured to alleviate the hardships of the estate
through a series of relief operations. In 1847 an application was made on behalf of the Countess
to the government for the sum of 500 pounds to provide employment to the people, so they could
afford meals. She also offered financial assistance for those of her tenants wishing to emigrate to
North America. The Countess also met their spiritual needs with the restoration of this
beautiful church. Catherine also involved herself in the encouragement of home industries,
making payments towards woolen manufacturers, such as spinning and knitting, so that women
had more employment opportunities, enabling them to earn a wage. By 1850 the Countess and her four
children had relocated further north in Scotland. It was supposedly around this time that she threw
herself in the development of what would become the Harris tweed industry, as she began introducing
finished tweeds among her circle of friends and establishing a connection with Edinburgh and
London markets. The Countess made it possible for her female tenants to earn a living by providing
stimulus and encouraging the selling of their homespun cloth. Her vital role in the development
of the cottage industry would see the transformation of the textile industry
into commercial viable fabric that would become known throughout the world as Harris tweed.
This amazing lady, one who sounds like we have so much to be thankful for, died at the age of 71
on the 12th of February 1886. While on Harris, I highly recommend taking time to enjoy the beaches
and the scenery around. It is also worth seeing Macleod Standing Stone. There is parking by the
road and a short walk along the beautiful beach. While the actual Macleod clan traces its origin
to the legendary Macleod stone, the stone itself is believed to be over 4,500 years old. While the
exact purpose of the Macleod stone remains a mystery, its prominent position suggests it may
have served as a navigational marker for ancient seafarers or held a ceremonial significance for
the Neolithic communities. Archaeological findings in the vicinity include human remains
and possible burial cairn structures indicating the area's importance in prehistoric times.
These sites alongside the island's natural beauty makes Harris a compelling destination
for historian enthusiasts and nature lovers alike.
Thank you for watching this video and supporting the channel. I hope it gave you a glimpse into
the magic of the Isle of Harris, its landscapes, its people and its quiet beauty. If you enjoyed
the journey, don't forget to like, subscribe and share it with people who dream of escaping
to somewhere truly special. And until the next time, stay safe.
