How was it made? Making and enamelling an earring | V&A
29 Video Views·May 26, 2025
In the late 16th century, Mughal court goldsmiths created a new style of jewellery, combining two techniques – kundan setting (gem-setting using pure gold) and enamelling. We travelled to workshops in Mumbai and Jaipur to see how these crafts are still used in the production of a traditional pair of earrings. Each stage is done by a specialist craftsman. This film shows the creation of the gold and enamel earring, in preparation for kundan setting.
The goldsmith's workshop. First, the walls of the jewels components are formed from strips of gold.
They are laid out in position onto a waxed board.
The components are then released and placed onto the gold sheet that will form their base.
Flux is applied, as well as small slivers of solder. The parts are then soldered together.
The excess gold sheet is snipped off and the surfaces filed smooth and lightly polished.
The component is now passed to the engraver, who secures it in shellac.
And after marking out the design, engraves it in preparation for the enamel.
The enameller first prepares the raw enamel by grinding it into a fine powder.
It's then rinsed and mixed with water to form a paste.
This paste is applied to the engraved fields. It's dried and then heated to melting point in a kiln.
The enamel is sanded smooth and given a final firing to gloss the surface. The piece is cleaned
in acid, then soapy water and the exposed gold walls are burnished. It's now ready for the next
stage, gem setting.