Exploring a Glittering Diamond Cartier Brooch

V&A Jewellery curator Helen Molesworth examines a small but intensely sparkly Cartier diamond and platinum brooch that seems unusually forward thinking in terms of its design for 1910.

Featuring over one hundred diamonds, including a stunning cushion cut centre stone, the brooch exhibits clear influence from Islamic art and architecture as well as elements typically found in the Art Deco period – a design style that wouldn't emerge for another decade. This jewel exemplifies the developing signature Cartier style in that it combines modernity and innovation with elegance and refinement, pushing boundaries and creating an inimitable philosophy of design.

00:00 An introduction to Cartier
00:17 A glittering platinum and diamond brooch is revealed!
00:45 A look at the Art Deco inspiration in the design
01:32 Further inspiration from Islamic art and design
01:54 How many diamonds?! 💎💎💎
03:04 The innovative 'milgrain setting’
03:54 Examining the back of the brooch