Western Zhou Danaty men's and women's clothing characteristics？西周男女服饰, HanFu system(汉服) took shape.

Western Zhou Dynasty During the Western Zhou Dynasty, the formation of the Chinese clothing system, the Chinese clothing system gradually took shape. Western Zhou Dynasty About 1046 BC to 771 BC According to historical inferences, Hanfu should first appear in the Yin and Shang dynasties. After the Shang Dynasty, the crown clothing system was initially established. The clothing of the Han people was constantly evolving on the basis of the clothing of the Zhou Dynasty. It was only until the Manchurian Qing Dynasty that there was a change in education. After overthrowing the Shang Dynasty, in order to consolidate the thought of military power, worship and worship, the clothing of this period is simply hidden etiquette and etiquette, especially aristocratic clothing. Regardless of color, pattern, article, and detail, there is etiquette participation. And in the period of Spring and Autumn War, etiquette is getting worse and worse, and there are more costumes that are convenient for the elderly. From the development of history, it can be known that the Xia Dynasty respected the order, the Shang Dynasty respected the god, and the Zhou Dynasty respected etiquette. Today, we will look at how the ancients placed etiquette on clothing. Today, we will look at the clothing system of the Zhou Dynasty. Let's start with men's clothing, look at the culture, look at the clothing, and look at the creativity of the ancients. The clothing of the aristocrats of the Zhou Dynasty was strict. The distinction between men's and women's clothing was gradually obvious. The aristocrats of the Nan Dynasty dressed in a fixed way according to the occasion and identity. The aristocrats of the Zhou Dynasty dressed in a fixed way and set up a national organization that specializes in managing the production of clothing. The aristocrats of the Zhou Dynasty wore the wrong clothes in a sensible occasion, which is a political issue, and would be punished severely. The aristocrats of women's clothing also followed their own clothing system. The aristocrats' overall clothing became loose and large in the Xia Dynasty. From the volume of clothing, you can feel the difference in level. The clothes of the common people at that time changed relatively little. Basically, there was no decoration and less fabric. Later in the Spring and Autumn Dynasties, the tiger-shaped clothing was introduced. The common people also wore the tiger-shaped clothing because it was more convenient for labor. First, let me briefly introduce the clothing of the aristocrats of the Nan Dynasty. Generally, it is discussed in two aspects, the formal clothing and the long clothing. The formal clothing includes cotton clothing, bathrobe, hanging clothes, and the long clothing is mainly for clothes. The bathrobe is worn by aristocrats in different levels of worship. There are six types in total. They are all ordinary hanging clothes. There is only a difference between cotton and linen. It's probably like this. The bathrobe system originated from business. The state established the rules. After the Han Dynasty, it has been inherited for generations. Until the Qing Dynasty, it was abolished. The bathrobe system was terminated, but it retained the use of twelve chapters. Let's take a look at the composition of the bathrobe first. From top to bottom, there are cotton, top, long, belt, bathrobe, bathing, washing. Each part has a different level of system Here is a brief introduction of each part's function. I won't introduce the levels of each part one by one. The composition of the bathrobe is more complicated. These are the main components. The number of rows hanging back and forth shows the difference in level. There are 12 rows at the highest, and 3 rows at the lowest. The top is tight and wide. The colors are all black. Black is a kind of reddish black. The material of the top and the pattern are used to distinguish the levels. The bottom is smoked. Smoked is a kind of blackish red. The bottom is divided into two pieces, the first three layers and the last four layers. They are all wrinkled. This wrinkle is called P. The bottom is made of silk. The belt consists of two parts, which are the belt and the belt. The belt is made of silk. In addition to the function of the waist, it is also used to distinguish the level. The belt is mainly made of leather. It is used to hang the bathrobe, bathing, the bathrobe is the bathrobe, and the leather is made of silk. It is made of embroidery cloth. It is used in the bathrobe. It has the meaning of not forgetting the ancestral system. The jade is also aged at that time. It is not the kind of simple jade that is worn later. There is a tradition in the Zhou Dynasty that a gentleman does not leave the jade for no reason. The jade and ancestral beasts of different levels are also different. The thin one in the bathrobe is actually aluminum. It is usually the back bottom. There will be a curved shape at the front. The above parts are combined in the same level. It forms six different levels of bathrobe. The highest level is the big ball surface. It looks like this. It is used to worship the sky. The top is made of black ointment leather. There is no pattern. You have to wear a T-shirt and a uniform outside. Because ancient people's leather cannot be worn directly on the outermost layer. In other words, ancient leather also has its own level system. The high ball is greater than the lake ball, greater than the sheep ball, greater than the dog ball. There will be details according to the color change. I won't go into detail here. The second is rolling. It looks like this. The one you are wearing is generally for the sacrificial rite. Common clothes are made of silk. Patterns are made from dragon pattern. The third is avoiding it. It looks like this. It is usually worn by the parents of the sacrificial rites. Common clothes are also made of silk. Patterns are made of insect pattern. The fourth isragic cotton. It looks like this. You wear it when you go to the ritual. Common clothes are silk. The upper clothes are made of zongyi. The fifth is eating cotton. 由于祭祀设计通生丝绸材质,上衣的纹路是以坟米为首章。 那第六就是选勉了。 用于祭祀小祀,通生还是丝绸,上衣没有纹路,下场仅有抚纹。 周代的贵族分为王、公、侯伯、子男、姑、清大夫。 士是最低级的贵族,士是不能着勉的。 其中王可以着六勉、公五勉、侯伯四勉、子男三勉、姑两勉、清和大夫一勉。 由此可以看出服饰与人的社会等级是密切挂钩的。 那祭祀的时候士不能着勉,那他们穿的是什么呢? 那就是我们接下来要讲的便服之一的绝便服。 这是世界层最高等级的服装,一般是在他们成人礼、结婚的场合以及祭祀的场合会穿着的。 绝便服和免服一样也是悬衣寻常,但是它没有任何的章纹,通体都是纯色,也是丝绸材质。 这个时候它搭配的帽子就是绝便,绝便和免冠的区别它就是没有前面的琉球。 那君子四便除了绝便服是给士阶层穿的,其他三种便服都是给周天子穿着的。 像皮鞭就是周天子朝服,不是丝绸材质了。 上衣下肠都是纯白色,辟膝也是白色,带皮鞭帽,皮鞭帽是由淡毛的白鹿皮制成的,因此整体就是通体白色的造型效果。 而尾便就是周天子的戎服,主要用在军事场合,通体都是熟皮做的,它更加的护体。 而且赤色流血不容易看出来,不会影响士气,和现在军事服多用迷彩绿,便于隐蔽不同。 那尾便也是赤色的,由此形成通体赤色的造型效果。 那至于冠便就是周天子的田猎服,上衣黑下肠白,都是素色,带冠便服,整体就是上黑下白的造型。 那到这里天子的九服,六面三便就介绍完毕了。 男士贵族礼服的第三种就是玄端,它主要是周天子的燕居服,也作为其他贵族的一种礼服。 士级士阶层以上都可以穿,燕居服就是周天子不上朝不祭祀的场合自己穿着的衣服。 最后一种就是生衣,生衣是那个时代使用最广泛的服装形式。 它既是士阶层以上的长服,也是士人阶级的吉服,也是普通百姓的礼服甚至祭服,在重大的场合才会穿着。 生衣呢它更像现代的连衣裙,上衣下肠是分开裁好的,但是会缝制在一起,衣肠相连。 有点类似于现在腰部有拼接的那种一片式的裹身裙。 主要的型制能长这个样子,主要的结构包括,归、举、绳、全、横。 归是指衣袖的部分圆形的剪裁,寓意着礼让。 举是指衣领部分方直的裁剪,寓意着无丝。 绳指后中披缝要笔直,寓意着人格要正直。 而全横指绳与下齐要垂直,寓意着公平公正。 生衣的装饰主要是圆饰,比现在的身份证还要厉害。 父母和祖父母聚在的衣源可以装饰花纹,那只有父母在的衣源是青色的。 没有父母,那衣源就是白色的,相当于直接把家庭信息就写在衣服上了。 那今天周朝男子的服饰就介绍到这里,下一次给大家讲解周朝女子的服饰。 我们直接接着上一章来看周朝女性贵族的服饰,整体来说呢她叫男性更加简单。 礼服主要是三抵三衣,简称命妇六服。 长服主要包括如裙和生衣。 命妇六服是王后和贵族的夫人在不同等级的礼制场合穿着的衣服。 我们介绍的时候省去等级的介绍, 主要从王后着服这条线来看看六种礼服的等级差异和使用场合的差异。 先说三抵,三抵主要是命妇在祭祀场合穿的衣服, 形质上是上下连署的生衣形质,丝绸材质非常的轻薄, 因此在内里一般都会穿着白色的纱衣以便于展示丝绸的颜色和纹样。 那就和现在很多下款很薄的面料搭配不同颜色的礼布 会显示出不同的色彩效果一样。 这个具体讲面料和颜色的部分我们细聊。 三抵包括灰衣、窑抵和阙抵。 那灰衣呢是王后从周天子祭祀先王时穿着的衣服,通体是选色。 它会剪出滑虫的形状缝制上去,然后再在里面描绘五彩。 它不是纯刺绣,类似于现在的贴布绣,但是又不是完整的贴布, 是一个半成品。 从周朝到明朝,灰衣都沿用了下来,直到清朝,皇后穿朝服来参加祭祀后才废弃。 窑抵是王后从周天子祭祀先公,也就是父母的时候穿的衣服,通体是清色的。 它也是剪出滑虫的形状缝制上去,然后在里面描绘五彩。 只不过和灰衣的质基的形状是不一样的,是不同的品种。 我们这边就不把它做太细的区分, 窑抵是王后从周天子祭祀小神时穿的衣服,通体是赤色。 聊完三嫡,我们再说说三衣。 三衣包括军衣、斩衣和套衣。 军衣是王后祭残神时穿的衣服,通体都是黄色,没有纹饰。 一般告丧时节是在春季养残的时节,那黄色也是象征丧夜始生之色。 即使在现在做服装的过程中,春天的明黄色也会比其他季节好卖, 因为它刚刚从冬天沉闷的颜色里走出来,在春天看就微微的温暖, 在夏天看又会有一点炎热的感觉, 所以在春天的时候明黄色是最好卖的,从中可以看出古人的智慧。 话说回来,斩衣是王后朝见帝王和接见宾客时穿的衣服, 整体是白色的,也是没有纹饰。 而唾衣就是王后的燕居服, 她不见皇帝,不参加祭祀的时候就比如平时见见嫔妃的时候穿的衣服, 整体是黑色的,也是没有任何的纹彩装饰。 那从三嫡三衣的颜色中我们就可以看出其中的等级制度。 中国传统文化中,玄色为天色,这个我们在辐色制度里面介绍过, 玄色是至尊色,因此灰的等级最高是玄色的, 其余的五服颜色依次按照五方政策中的青赤黄白黑沦下来, 就把命妇六服排好了等级。 和勉冠制度一样,不仅勉服有等级,勉冠也有等级, 那女子贵族服饰也是相同的, 不仅服装有等级,发饰也有等级,主要分成六级。 妇编次追痕迹 妇编次是三种不同的假发, 妇就是假发和装饰物组合好的比较复杂的假发罐, 直接把装饰好的东西往你头上套上去就行了, 编是一些单根的辫子,做整体造型效果的时候用来增加造型效果的, 妇就会自然一点,把一些假发梳进发型里面, 使它更加的精美,类似于现在的假发片一样的装饰。 追痕迹是竖发的三种工具, 追是横两端悬挂的玉石,横就是当时平衡假发片的那个物件, 就跟棉挂的横是一个东西,它左右有保持平衡嘛, 那剂就是女子固定发型的发剂。 女子的装扮整体比男子要结构简单, 体现的等级制度主要也就是这几种, 也体现了当时男尊女卑的社会风气。 那讲完贵族女性的服饰,我们也看一看普通百姓女孩子穿什么呢? 主要就是生衣和如裙。 女子生衣和男子也是一样的,只有在祭祀的重大场合才会去穿。 而女子的如裙其实也是上衣下衩的一种发展, 它是上衣下衩,衩不开衩就称为裙, 所以如裙就是上衣下裙的形式。 它的上衣和生衣会更相近, 它的上衣又叫男子的上衣会更加长, 下裙一定也比男子的下裳要长, 因此下裙很多会脱地, 在外观看来就是连衣裙里穿了脱尾裙, 而且内裙也很多都是前段后长的形式。 那个时候的上衣也发展成了半臂的形式, 就是半袖然后里面还会有长袖, 这也是后来短袖的前身, 是便于劳作的一种发展方向吧。 这些就是周代服饰的大型, 其中无处不体现着理智的森严, 那个时候的服装是一场贵族的游戏, 普通人就是穿暖裹深便于劳作即可。 那讲完周代服装, 其实中国古代服装的知识我们就已经有了大致的了解了, 然后根据每一个朝代发展, 重点文化的不同, 然后生活习惯的慢慢的改变, 服装会有一定的变化, 我们还是会抓住服装的面料, 扩形, 以及纹饰啊色彩的变化, 来讲一讲服装接下来的一些样子。