Royal Jewels: Symbols of Power

Spanning the late 19th century to the Belle Époque era, three pieces of antique jewellery from a private collection captivate us with their craftsmanship and reveal how royal houses shaped jewellery as enduring symbols of power, employing rare materials and diverse forms. This diamond and pearl tiara It was created by Musi Padre Efigli, the court jeweller of Turin and one of the oldest goldsmiths in Europe, as seen engraved on the tiara frame in reverse. Composed of eleven slightly baroque drop-shaped natural pearls which are framed with graduated scroll motifs, the tiara can be transformed into a necklace. At the time, jewels were designed with versatility in mind and this tiara can be converted into an elegant necklace by using the screw mechanism that holds the pieces onto the tiara frame. Next is this important diamond brooch from the late 19th century, which was formerly in the collection of the Grand Ducal House of Habsburg-Tuscany. Measuring approximately 110 by 70 millimetres, the brooch depicts a double-headed eagle as a simplified form of the arms of the Austrian Empire, which ran between 1867 and 1915. The imperial crown of Austria is seen above the heraldic double-headed eagle, symbolising the dual sovereignty of the emperor in secular and religious matters. The escutcheon in the centre is showcased in this jewel as an outline of the shield, centring three diamonds in line On the reverse, diamonds are set open-backed in contrast to foiled, closed-back settings of earlier pieces to enhance the brilliance and the fire of the diamonds. The stones are mounted in a laminate of gold and silver, silver at the front to enhance the whiteness of the stones and gold at the back to solidify the piece for durability and to prevent the staining of skin or clothing that might originate from oxidised silver. The Belle Époque diamond gigard was originally crafted in 1907 and later remodelled circa 1935. This type of ornament has traditionally been shaped as a feather to decorate a turban, which were worn by the royals since the Mughal Empire as a symbol of power. The gigard is set with variously shaped antique diamonds mounted in white gold with a plume holder to the reverse. Seven brilliant cut diamonds on the top are set as pendants from the frame as well as the pear-shaped diamond drop at the end of the jewel. These were designed with swinging movements in mind. The sparkle from the diamonds would have been brilliant on the turban when it was worn by the Maharaja. The lower portion of the diamond gigard is detachable and can be worn as a separate brooch. These royal jewels, each distinct in their forms, serve as a testament to the incredible skill and craftsmanship of the artisans of the 19th to 20th century through their intricate designs that showcase the traditions of each region. .