聰明旅行家 第一季 1080P 中文字幕 聰明旅行家 布拉格和布達佩斯 中文字幕 .S03E07.Prague..Budapest

Hi, I'm Rudy Maxa, from the stunning spires of Prague to the steamy maze of Budapest. We're following trails of long, long ago in kingdoms far away. Join me as we visit Prague and Budapest, next on Smart Travels. Smart Travels is a grand tour of the old world, the people, places, sights and distinctly European flavors. Our host is travel writer and columnist Rudy Maxa, public radio's original savvy traveler. Now, tips, trips and secret places on Smart Travels. Beyond the borders of Western Europe, among a constellation of exotic lands, two stars shine, Prague and Budapest. They float along through the continuum of time, thousands of years etching distinctive character here. With raw history that's not yet been completely polished and packaged for Western tourists, the two cities both startle and intrigue visitors. Though geographically separate, Prague and Budapest share some common bonds. Both were once important players in the late great Habsburg Empire. Prague and Budapest are deep in the heart of Europe, where East and West collide. We'll begin in stunning Prague, and then head south to the spicy city of Budapest. Prague's pedigree can be a bit confusing to first-time visitors. Historically, it was the largest city in the Czech region of Bohemia. This city is like a living textbook for the great architectural styles of Europe. Largely unscathed by the devastating wars of the 20th century, Prague remains stunningly well-preserved. Towers, turrets, spires, domes. It has a fantasy skyline that will make your heart flutter. We're in the old town square, ready to embark on a walk called the Royal Way. In the Middle Ages, it was the coronation path used by the kings as they made their way through the city to ascend the throne at Prague Castle. Narrow stone streets lead to the Vltava River, churning its way through town and dividing the city into left and right banks. Spanning the Vltava, the Charles Bridge is Prague's artery of activity. Hosts of musicians, performers, and streetwalkers engage in a grand, touristic dance with visitors from around the globe. In the mid-17th century, when the Catholic Habsburgs defeated the Czech Protestants, the Charles Bridge became a symbol of Catholic exuberance. A steady stream of Baroque statues appeared along the bridge walls with, as one Czech writer put it, thousands of saints looking out from all sides, threatening you, following you, hypnotizing you. From the bridge, the view of Prague Castle is nothing short of breathtaking. The castle rose to prominence as a guardian of the major trade routes criss-crossing Central Europe. It was the seat of the Premyslid princes, Bohemia's first dynasty. The enormous, sprawling palace is a collection of buildings ranging from the 10th to the 20th centuries, connected by a network of interior courtyards. Every wave of rulers added its own flourishes to the complex, but the castle we see today is mainly courtesy of Habsburg Empress Maria Theresa. Vladilov Hall is a startlingly large Gothic space with airy windows and vaulted ceilings. In its prime, the hall was the site not only of coronations and banquets, but also jousting tournaments and markets. This was the scene of one of the city's defenestrations, which means throwing someone out of a window. Locals engaged in this odd practice several times throughout their history as a way of showing their displeasure with city officials. Today, the castle compound guards not only government buildings, but also museums, art galleries, and one especially grand church. St. Vitus Cathedral, Prague's largest church, flaunts a long and regal history. The cathedral's roots date back to the 10th century. But about 600 years ago, a great Gothic craze in France was spreading across Europe. Emperor Charles IV decided that St. Vitus should be a showpiece of the Gothic style. After the original architect died, the project was taken over by Peter Parler, who went on to set the tone for much of Prague's later Gothic architecture. But fighting between Catholics and church reformers halted construction. The cathedral wasn't completed until the 1920s, after a group of Czech patriots took up the cause. It's usually crowded with tourists, but you won't want to miss the castle's quirky golden lane. Here, a string of tiny houses huddle in a row. According to legend, Emperor Rudolf II employed a group of alchemists to live in these houses. Their assignment? To discover the secret of eternal life and to figure out how to manufacture gold. Sounds simple enough, right? Well, it's more likely, however, that Rudolf's marksmen inhabited the houses. Prague's most famous writer, Franz Kafka, lived for a time at number 22. More about Kafka later on. As you leave the castle area, you can stroll through the Malá Strana, or lesser quarter, tucked at the foot of the hill. The neighborhood, one of the best preserved in the city, prospered when upper-class families settled here, hoping no doubt that a little of the royal flourish would rub off on them. Later, most of the homes were abandoned when the ruling powers moved to Vienna. Thankfully, the area escaped any major restorations. This is like a stroll through history down the ornate streets of Baroque Europe. Mozart stayed in the neighborhood for a time, and some scenes from the film Amadeus were shot here. We're back in the Old Town Square, just in time to hear the famous astronomical clock announce the hour. The square, an architectural showpiece lined with Romanesque and Gothic houses, crowds with spectators awaiting the top of the hour. The 500-year-old wooden clock on the Old Town Hall is a medieval engineering marvel. Still in working order, the middle part is the actual clock, showing the movement of the sun and moon. Underneath is a calendar with signs of the zodiac. When death rings the death knell and the Twelve Apostles proceed along the windows, we know our time has come. Once the site of a king's court, the Municipal House is now a cultural center and home to one of Prague's most elegant beer halls. My friend Anna and I discovered the Pilsen Restaurant serves up mouth-watering platters of hearty Czech food and signs of the world-famous Pilsner Beer. There's an ongoing battle between Germans and Czechs as to who makes the best beer. We encountered an Austrian men's choir doing their own research, all the while entertaining us with a selection of traditional drinking songs. Surrounded by gorgeous Art Nouveau décor and great company, you're bound to fall in love with the spirit of this city. For a somewhat different take on Prague's character, check out the house where Franz Kafka was born. Kafka,one of the 20th century's great writers, lived nearly all of his life in Prague. In fact, his work is so closely associated with this city that it's impossible to separate the two. But Kafka's feelings about Prague were mixed at best. He once described being born in the city as the worst misfortune that had befallen him and said, this dear little mother has sharp claws. He spent most of his life living in small apartments with his parents and sisters and working in the castle for a large, bureaucratic insurance company. His writing often involves stories of maddening frustration, unfortunate individuals fighting against a huge, faceless and often malicious bureaucracy. The Czech spirit most clearly finds its expression here, in Wenceslas Square. Really more of a long boulevard than a square, this has traditionally been a gathering spot for Czechs. Seven centuries ago, it was a horse market. That's why St. Wenceslas, the Czech patron saint, is portrayed on horseback, surrounded by some of his fellow saints. In 1939, locals massed here to protest Hitler's takeover of Bohemia. Well, the free market is here and how. And if you're ready for some shopping, one of the most popular buys is Czech glass. You'll see stores overflowing with the beautiful vases, goblets and beads. Cut glassware is one of the finest decorative arts to emerge from Bohemia. For a more thorough look at the artistry of glass, check out the Museum of Decorative Arts. Prague was once thought to be a magical city, and Bohemian glass had special powers. With prime real estate near mineral-rich mountains and smack dab in the middle of major European crossroads, Bohemia seemed destined to become a glass center. Before the 19th century, Venice dominated the tinted glass market. But three Bohemian chemists challenged Venetian supremacy by developing fine, colorful glass at prices that the emerging middle class could afford. To get around Prague like the locals do, you can use the efficient, inexpensive subway system. My friend Martin Stasek is giving me tips on buying tickets. Well, it's pretty easy. You can buy this one, which is adult tour fare for most downtown Prague and greater Prague, or tour fare for children, which is 8 crowns, or for greater Prague and suburbs, which is 80 crowns. Along with a new attitude toward capitalism has come a whole new crop of luxury hotels. Ideally situated between the castle and the old town square, the Four Seasons is eminently comfortable and convenient, with beautifully restored rooms, commanding views of the city and every modern convenience. This is one of the best addresses in town. After a good night's rest, we're off on the 300-mile trip to Budapest. Budapest is an easy train ride or short flight away. Colorful and complex, Budapest is actually two cities straddling the Danube River. The royal town of Buda claims the left bank. The broad boulevards of Pest anchor the right. The friendly, resilient Hungarian people are descended from the Magyars, horse-riding tribesmen who rode into this area more than 1,000 years ago. Over the centuries, they endured invasions by Mongols and Turks. They were ruled by the House of Habsburg until World War I, and more recently, dominated by Soviet armies. But with the fall of the Iron Curtain, Hungarians have once again opened their arms to visitors. Virošmártý Square is the heart of the city. The large, handsome square teems with cafes, shops and street musicians. In the middle, a statue of 19th-century Romanic poet Milhelja Virošmártý intones, ''Be faithful to your land forever, oh Hungarians.'' We're ducking into Zherbo Café for a little Hungarian café society. Zherbo,founded in 1858, is legendary for its nostalgic atmosphere and its elegant cakes and pastries. The café's prime location and famous reputation mean it's generally crowded. Be sure to try the house specialty, the Zherbo cake. After 145 years, we still prepare the bonbons, the small chocolates, handmade, and we are the only one here in Hungary who produce all these products only handmade without any machines. It's a very unique place. Here in Hungary, everybody knows you just have to step by in the heart of the city and you will find the beautiful, old, and lovely café. To get to Buddha's Grand Palace, we're catching the Castle Hill Funicular. The cable car, traveling a steep gradient nearly 100 meters long, was built in 1870. It was designed to provide inexpensive transportation for the many clerks who worked in the castle district. Originally powered by a steam engine, today it's run with electricity, though it still uses the old counterbalance system. The enormous walled castle area is made up of two separate parts, the Royal Palace, where the original 13th-century castle was located, and the old town where the commoners lived. The Royal Palace has a tumultuous history. After various remodelings over the centuries, the palace was destroyed as the Hungarians battled the Turkish occupiers in 1686. The Habsburgs resurrected it, but rarely lived here. After a devastating siege at the end of World War II, the castle was completely laid to ruin. But before it was rebuilt, archaeologists were pleased to discover the medieval structures that once stood below the Baroque Palace. Today the castle is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has been converted to museums. Craft peddlers dot the old town area selling traditional handmade fabrics. And little shops spill over with embroidered tablecloths, porcelain dolls, and painted eggs. The essential,and to my mind, most enjoyable Budapest experience is a visit to one of the many therapeutic spas that grace the city. Budapest sits on a geological fault, and thousands of gallons of hot mineral water surge daily from more than 100 mineral springs. Consequently, the city is a popular spa destination. We're at Széchenyi Baths, founded in 1909, in one of Europe's largest spa centers. Now this is the kind of hot water I like to find myself in. Let go of your travel stress and give yourself up to the tranquil tradition of European bathing. It was the Romans who first exploited Budapest's steamy charms. The Turks cultivated a national liquid obsession. And this spa's elegant decor recalls the grand Habsburg lifestyle. After a long soak at the spa, I've worked up a powerful appetite. Ready for some hearty Hungarian food? Carpathia Restaurant dishes up some of the best traditional fare in town. Carpathia has been a local favorite since 1877. Here in a wonderfully gothic atmosphere, you'll be serenaded by gypsy music as you slake your hunger with succulent pork, tender chicken and rich sauces. Carpathia's motto? For 120 years, there's only been one king in this restaurant, the guests. The ideal after-dinner entertainment is a performance by the Hungarian State Folk Ensemble. Highly respected both here and around the world, this group's been collecting traditional costumes and performing folk dances for more than half a century. Choreography of the dances is based on elements dating back hundreds of years, often originating in isolated villages around the countryside. The small orchestra plays authentic Hungarian instruments, and their repertoire includes the same folk music that inspired such classical composers as Franz Liszt and Béla Bartók. As in Prague, hotel options in Budapest have expanded considerably. We found La Meridien Budapest right here in the heart of the city. Once known as Adria Palace, this grand building is considered a historic landmark. With a sumptuous lobby and gracious rooms, it's a little slice of Habsburg elegance, but with all of the 21st century conveniences. Budapest's cultural landmark and crowning architectural achievement is the celebrated Opera House. Fabulously ornate, the Opera House was completed in 1884 and quickly became one of the most prominent musical centers in Europe. Statues of classical music legends peer out from every corner. The Opera House opening was marred by political scandal when Franz Liszt wrote a piece to be performed at the event. When authorities discovered that Liszt had incorporated elements of a patriotic and anti-Habsburg Hungarian song into the piece, the performance was canceled. Since its opening, the Opera House has wowed audiences with countless musical performers and directors. Dohany Synagogue is Europe's largest and it seats 3,000 people. When Nazi forces occupied Budapest in World War II, Adolf Eichmann came here to set up the Jewish ghetto and begin deportations. The synagogue served as a holding place for Jews destined for concentration camps. Right next to the synagogue there is a cemetery, which is very unique because usually it is forbidden in the Jewish religion to put a cemetery next to a synagogue, but here it's a mass grave. There was no heat in the building. In the winter of 1944, there was no food, no water. So many children, many old people, many sick people died in the ghetto. 8,000 died and they were thrown in this mass grave over here right next to the synagogue. This steel weeping willow near the cemetery symbolizes the grief of the Jewish people in Hungary. Have you ever wondered what happened to the monuments of communism that lined the streets of Budapest the last century? Look no further. Welcome to Communist Statue Park. This open-air exhibit, about a 20-minute ride from downtown, has been nicknamed Tons of Socialism. Fascinating even in a summer downpour, the park parades a series of stern, brawny monuments dedicated to the old workers' movement. And check out the gift shop where you can pick up a T-shirt or medal, your own little piece of communism. Prague and Budapest. You get the feeling these are two cities that have seen it all. They've watched empires rise and fall, watched invaders come and go, and still, blowing through a rich patina of history, Prague and Budapest float on. I can't resist one last dip in the baths. And I'm floating my way to heavenly relaxation. From Budapest, I'm Rudy Maxa. Thanks for joining me, and goodbye. Or as we say in Hungary, Visząd latasza.