聰明旅行家 第一季 1080P 中文字幕 聰明旅行家.S05E04.西雅圖 中文字幕

Volcanoes and whales, glaciers and islands, and a hip-happening urban center. This Pacific Rim city wows with its youthful energy and natural beauty. Next stop, Seattle, on Smart Travels. Smart Travels is a grand tour of the world's great destinations, the people, places, and unique local flavors. Now, tips, trips, and secret places on Smart Travels' Pacific Rim. Banked by snow-covered mountains and encircled by great expanses of blue water, Seattle mixes urban living with the great Pacific Northwest wilderness. And once unassuming and boldly innovative, Seattle is a paradox of wooden boats and high technology, of caffeine-crazed entrepreneurs and vortex-clad hikers who love their micro-greens. The mild, misty climate keeps the emerald city perpetually green and almost always abloom. Seattle is the best of both worlds, a vibrant city with laid-back charm and natural beauty. Seattle is about 36 inches annually, compared with 40 inches in New York. The difference is, New York gets it over with in several storms while Seattle drags it out in misty, cloudy days. The clouds can get some people down, but in summer, sun shines, Seattle sparkles like no place on earth. Water, water, and more water, flanked by Puget Sound on one side, and Lake Washington on the other, Seattle is intersected by a thin waterway connecting the lake to the sound. We'll experience Seattle's downtown and lively waterfront, as well as some of the vibrant neighborhoods. Then, nature beckons, and we head south to magnificent Mount Rainier. Finally, by seaplane, we take off to the San Juan Islands. Quiet little Seattle has spawned some giants. Microsoft, Starbucks, and Amazon all began here as small alternative companies. Both the grunge music scene and the dot-com boom sprang out of these streets. In the 1990s, thousands of young people poured into the city, blurred by the promise of high-tech wealth. In fact, since the days of the first settlers who founded a city in the swampy land beneath a high-wooded bluff, Seattle has known booms and busts, entrepreneurs and dreamers. Seattle pioneered square with its 19th-century Brighton, Alaska. In 1897, thousands of gold prospectors passed through the town. Most of them lost everything in the adventure as Seattle boomed. In 10 years, from 1890 to 1900, Seattle's population doubled as outfitters, brothels, and cabins... The bike market near the waterfront is the heart of downtown Seattle. It's here that farmers and vendors pedal their fresh-produced cheese and fish as they have for a hundred years. Visitors can stand mesmerized by the fish guys' exuberant performance or walk the lively stalls selling fruit, vegetables, handcrafted foods and souvenirs. Despite the number of tourists, this is a real working market and a great place to stack your way through. We make a lot of northwestern specialty products. I have one in particular I can show you. It's the Tayberry Jam. I've never heard of Tayberry. Is that a kind of berry? Yeah, Tayberry is a cross between a red raspberry and a marionberry. It's got a great aroma. And this is from where? This is from the Skagit Valley, where the tulip fields grow in Washington State. We have a lot of wonderful land for farming. Isn't that fabulous? It's got the seeds of the raspberry, but not quite as sharp a taste. Yeah, it's my favorite one. Very nice. Nearby streets house restaurants, shops, and street musicians. It was here that a young group of entrepreneurs inspired by the cafe scene in Europe opened a modest gourmet coffee shop, Starbucks. Is that a tall cappuccino? All they really wanted was to stop driving all the way to Vancouver, Canada for a good cup of coffee. It ignited a craze that has taken over the country and spread overseas. Seattleites speak an entire different language in Coffee Land, and they go fast. Now, bear with me. I've been practicing. Hi. I would love a half-decaf, double tall, two-pump vanilla, non-fat, no-foam latte. How did I do? Awesome. Half-decaf, double tall, two-pump vanilla, non-fat, no-foam latte. That's exactly what I love. Very good. A steep descent downhill leads to the Seattle waterfront. Part working port, part tourist destination, part ferry terminal. The best part of a stroll here is the ever-changing panoply of boats sailing across Classic Puget Sound. The piers house novelty and souvenir shops as well as seafood restaurants. A famed Seattle character named Ivor Haglund opened a fish bar on the waterfront in 1938 next to the aquarium. A folk singer who hung out with the likes of Pete Seeger, Ivor had a knack for public relations and a love of clams. Ivor is known for fish and chips but the restaurant also serves up a surprising array of fine seafood dishes. With a plate of fish and a stunning view of Puget Sound, you'll be as happy as a clam. Seattle has long been a jumping-off spot for Alaska. In the early years, Seattle joked that Alaska was its very own province. Today, luxury cruise ships take passengers to Alaska and beyond. I hopped aboard the Holland America's MS Osterdam for a look at the luxurious quarters. Each year, 700,000 cruise-goers pass through Seattle. If a full-fledged cruise isn't in the stars, a ferry trip across the sound stands in nicely. You can take a short, scenic ferry ride to rural Bainbridge Island. The views of the city are spectacular. The Seattle Space Needle are a remnant of the 1962 World's Fair of Pierces in the Sky. The Emerald City's modest collection of skyscrapers lines the shore. Gazing out toward the islands, it's easy to imagine the rugged evergreen coast that the early pioneers discovered. The place where Native Americans peacefully paddled their canoes. Majestic Mount Rainier looms over the sound, and as you approach Bainbridge, the scenery grows wooden and more isolated. Foot passengers walk ten minutes to the sleepy island center of Winslow. Locals love to hop over here for breakfast or lunch. If you come for dinner in the summer, you might enjoy a sunset cruise on the way back. Seattle residents are on the whole educated, open-minded and lovers of the arts. Per capita book purchases are among the highest in the country, and the city is loaded with public art, theaters, performance halls and cinemas. The 48-foot hammering man pounds away outside the Seattle Art Museum honoring the working man. The museum holds rotating special exhibits as well as a collection of Native American tribal art. Native Americans lived a peaceful plentiful life in the Pacific Northwest, and thus had time to develop their culture and their art. Totem poles told stories and celebrated ancestors. The masks on display were worn during festival dances that could last the entire night. Just up the street from the art museum is another museum of sorts, a living museum, Seattle's public library, designed by Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas. The first time Rem Koolhaas pulled the model out of the box and showed it to the trustees of our library and to me and some other members of the design team, we were pretty shocked. And of course the first question we asked was how do you wash the windows? So how do you clean the windows? In Seattle, we have so many rock climbers and mountain climbers the cheapest bids come in not to use the equipment we purchased in store but to use buckets and to swing and practice their sportsmanship. No. Yes. So unique, so, well, cool, the library attracts tourists by the thousands. The library exemplifies the principle of form following function. Koolhaas designed a gradually sloping book spiral that winds down four floors and allows the library to easily expand its collection. Steel grids support glass between a series of floating platforms that jut out over the street. The result is a light-filled glass and steel wonder with tantalizing views to the water. Seattle's first big boom was the gold rush. The next one began in 1916 when a young man named William Boeing opened an aircraft company. By the 1960s, one person in every ten in the city worked at Boeing. South of downtown Seattle, near Boeing Field, the Museum of Flight pays tribute to the man and his company that became the major employer in Seattle for decades. Here, you can visit the Red Barn, the birthplace of the Boeing Company. Forty-one historic airplanes fill the Museum's great gallery. Visitors can man the controls of a Blackbird reconnaissance plane. Or you can take an action-packed ride in a flight simulator and try not to crash. Outside on the tarmac, you can tour the Concorde or Air Force One, the flying oval office that carried Presidents Eisenhower, Kennedy, Johnson, and Nixon. When it's time for a change of pace, Seattle's neighborhoods add color and flavor to the city. From the vibrant international district with its mix of Japanese, Chinese, Vietnamese, and Korean people, to the Scandinavian Ballard-Fremont area, Seattle neighborhoods are diverse, fun, and important. It is the self-proclaimed center of the universe, with its very own rocket and a statue of Lenin rescued from a scrap pile in Russia. Here, cafes and restaurants mingle with specialty shops and pubs. Adjacent Ballard is known for its long history of shipbuilding in the Ballard Locks, which each day allow thousands of boats to pass to and from Lake Washington and the saltwater of Puget Sound. Next to the locks, engineers designed a fish ladder to help salmon make their way back to the inland waters where they were born. You can watch their progress from an underwater viewing area. Before May, coffee took off in Seattle, so, too, did the micro-brew craze. Twenty-five years ago, American beers were, on the whole, pale, flavorless concoctions. Then, in the early 80s, Northwest brewers began producing European-style beers, and as a result, a new American beer was born. Soon, local brewers set up tables and offered food at their breweries. The brew pub became a Seattle tradition, and there are many sprinkled throughout the city. The Maritime Brewery, located in between Ballard and Fremont, serves up fifteen different beers on tap and couples the beer with a whole new breed of bar food. One word of warning for travelers in this area trolls have long plagued Ballard and Fremont, lurking under bridges and demolishing cars. Do stay clear of these one-eyed monsters. This trip to Seattle, I'm staying in Belltown. It's a great spot for restaurants and nightlife just a few blocks north of downtown. The Hotel Andra is urban, trendy, and perfectly situated for a night on the town. Housed in a 1926 brick-and-terracotta building, Hotel Andra's interior is a modern, minimalist surprise. Like Seattle itself, the hotel is a small, artistic, and stylish retreat. Whenever I'm in Seattle, I can't get enough seafood. And I'm anxious to try one of the four restaurants owned by local chef and Northwest food guru Tom Douglas. When you buy salmon in Seattle, you don't just say, Harry, I want an usual fish, send me a salmon. That's just not the way it works here. When I call Harry, I say, what do you have for salmon today? He says, I've got Yukon River, Copper River, Westport Salmon right off the coast here in Washington, maybe Columbia River. Oh, what species do you have? Oh, I've got pinks, tojos, sockeyes, chunks. I mean, when we talk about salmon, we talk about specific salmon. That's what's great about living here. Seattle's just got an incredible abundance of wild products. At his restaurant, Tom serves up simple, fresh, out-of-this-world seafood. No other large U.S. city can claim such a vast number and diversity of hiking trails in close proximity. From easy day hikes to serious mountain climbing, Seattle has it all. And to aid and abet those hikers, Seattle spawned yet another small, alternative company that made it big, Recreational Equipment, Inc., or REI. Even if you never put a toe in a hiking boot, a trip to REI is an experience. You can test out almost everything from bikes on the outdoor path or climbing gear on the rock climbing wall. Everything from skiing to water sports to mountaineering is possible in the Northwest, and REI gets thousands of people ready to go each day. Where's your adventure taking you today? We're going to do a little hike on Mount Rainier. Nothing too strenuous, just a little walk. An excellent day hike? Let me show you a pack that'll take care of that. All right. Here's the perfect day pack to get you through your day hike. Slip that on. Excellent. Bring this over here. And shoulders. And this is a whistle. Good. Feeling good. All right. And Rudy, these will be the perfect add-on to support your trip to Mount Rainier. Terrific. What's next? Let's go get some footwear. All right. Very comfortable. Good ankle support. Light enough, flexible enough. Perfect. I'm fully outfitted and ready to hit the trail. Known simply as the mountain to locals, Mount Rainier dominates the skyline on clear days. A few hours' drive south from the city, the mountain can be visited year-round for hiking, backcountry skiing and climbing. This is paradise, and boy, is it aptly named. A rolling meadow filled with flowers set beneath the massive rock and ice of a 14,411-foot volcano, Mount Rainier. A young volcano, Mount Rainier's fires are very much alive. Though dormant, Mount Rainier could erupt any time, as its cousin to the south, Mount St. Helens, did in 1980. The colossal mountain is sheathed in 35 square miles of icy glaciers and snow fields. The Native Americans named it Tahoma, or Snowy Peak. On a summer day, the mountain seems as benign as an ice cream sundae. When storms whip up quickly at this altitude, almost every year, Tahoma claims the lives of climbers. What was it like when you were on the top? First of all, I was relieved because I had finally made it and my team got to spend about an hour up there. There's a notebook that you can sign that basically I was here and beautiful views of course all around of other mountain ranges and the other volcanoes in the Cascades. The most amazing thing about the summit is that even though there's all of the snow up there, the crater rim is free of snow and there's steam coming up out of the ground, so you see that steam rising and you think, wow, I really am standing on an active volcano. In the winter months, as much as 93 feet of snow can fall at Paradise. During early summer, usually mid-July at this altitude, a veritable riot of wildflowers fills the meadows. In particular, red paintbrush and blue lupine. Deer roam the meadows at Paradise as well as the mountain groundhog, the marmot. Hiking opportunities abound here and elsewhere in the park. The Wonderland Trail circles the mountain in 93 glorious but difficult miles. Easy day hikes begin from the parking lot at Paradise. If you keep on going straight up, you arrive at Camp Ewer, base camp beyond the mountains. Mountains and sea, hiking and sailing. On a sunny weekend, Seattleites exchange their hiking boots for flip-flops and head out to the islands. Ferries make the trip, but there's no better and quicker approach than by air. From the air, Seattle sparkles. Kenmore Air not only flies to the islands, but also offers one-hour tours that take in vast Puget Sound, the signature Seattle skyline, and the little lakes, parks and neighborhoods. Then to the San Juan Islands, a series of some 170 wooded isles set amid the calm waters of Puget Sound. Millions of years ago, these wooded stepping stones were the tops of mountains worn down and then submerged by glaciers. Today, there are serene homes of some 14,000 people, the largest and most populated being San Juan Island. By car and ferry, the trip can take several hours. It's less than an hour. The San Juans bob with boats. Quiet coves shimmer in the sun, and pretty harbor towns top the islands. Here you can rent winter fields or wine. Resorts usually offer peach access as do some state parks. Whales make their home around the islands. Each pod ranges in size from 17 to 50 whales. Teas and whale watch trips regularly spot the pods. The whales feed on salmon rinders, so you're most likely to spot them from May to September. Water and leaping doorstep of a vibrant city you can ask for pretty soon. Well,Seattle never quite became the metropolis New York is, and that's just fine. For all its great achievements, its airplanes, software, and high-tech boom, Seattle remains a small town. Peaceful, livable, and set amidst some of America's wildest, most diverse terrain, Seattle is a little piece of paradise. Well, the clouds have descended, the mountain is shrouded in mist, and the blue waters of Puget Sound have turned gray. The curtain's fallen, but I'm headed home with enough sparkling memories to fill a whole winter. From the Emerald City, I'm Rudy Maxis. See you next time.