Small zip around wallet project - How to sew - Sewing tutorial

Hello everyone this is Yoan and welcome to a new episode. Today I would love to share the small zip around wallet project. Many of you enjoy the large version of the zip around wallet so I think it's about time to create the smaller one when you don't need to carry so many stuff with you. So this one is super cute and functional it has all the necessary features. The finished measurements are about 5.5 inch by 4.5 inch. It comes with three card slots on each side, two compartments, a zipper pocket, of course it has the zip around closure to make sure everything is safe and secure inside and I just love this accordion style side gusset and I think this is a really cute and functional wallet for everyday use. I designed this pattern to be relatively simple and approachable so hopefully you can follow along at your own pace. You can go get the PDF pattern for this project at yoansewingstudio.com it's free and I will put the link somewhere in the description box down below. Alright guys I hope you enjoy this video and without further ado let's jump straight into it. The first thing that you want to do is to print out the pattern there should be three templates for the main body, the stabilizer, and the side panel and the rest will be cutting and measuring kind so simply refer to the cutting instructions for that. Now you want to tile the pattern for the main body panels, match the alphabet eclipse there, fold back or cut one of the pages margin, and then slide the other page behind it, match all the lines and make sure that there is no overlapping, and then tape to secure them the seam allowances are included in this pattern so you want to cut each piece as it is. Make sure to cut all the notches, there should be one on each side, after that you want to snip all the center point lines, if you use cotton quilting fabric as the main fabric you want to make sure to apply the fusible woven interfacing, and if you use something a bit heavier such as canvas you can skip the interfacing. On the wrong side of the lining fabric you want to apply mid-weight stabilizer I recommend to use pellon decor bond or craft fused so you want to use something that will give a little bit of body to the wallet but it is still pliable and not too bulky. When you fuse the stabilizer you want to leave the center point area unfused since we're gonna hand stitch the bottom of the zipper pocket to the lining fabric later towards the end it will make it much easier if there is no stabilizer attached in this section that make it hard for your needle to go through later. Now if you wish to add the RFID blocking fabric to your wallet this is the time to do it so you want to lay that on the wrong side of the lining panel matching the center folds and then baste stitch along the edges with about 1 1⁄8 inch seam allowance. Next we're gonna work on the card pockets so you want to prepare the card pocket panels make sure to apply fusible woven interfacing on the wrong side of course you want to make sure that it is centered. On the wrong side you want to draw the fold lines just like shown here we're gonna start folding and pressing from the bottom first we're gonna fold this last line at the bottom using a thin ruler as your guide you want to fold towards the top and then press open the fold and then you want to fold the next line towards the bottom so let's bring this fold down now on the right side here you should see the first slot forming and then press fold the next line towards the top and then press open the fold and then fold the last line towards the bottom and on the right side here the second slot should form now let's press this real good and then flip this to the right side and again you want to give this a good pressing and then top stitch along the edges of the fold and when you do the top stitching make sure that all the fabrics underneath is out of the way and once you've done top stitching you wanna baste stitch the side edges with about 1 1⁄8 inch seam allowance to secure the pleats. Now you want to measure the height of the card pocket panel so it should be 3 3 1⁄4 inch and if there's any excess fabric you want to trim off the bottom edge. Lay the pocket panel and a pocket lining panel right sides together pin to secure them mark an opening about 2 inches or so at the top and then you want to stitch all around with 1⁄4 inch seam allowance of course leaving an opening at the top to turn the pocket inside out later. Once you've done that you want to clip all the corners be careful not to cut through the stitches and then you want to trim off the seam allowances of the side edges as close as you can to the seams. Now you want to turn the pocket panel right side out through the opening hole poke all the corners make them nice and flat now fold the opening edge towards the wrong side about 1⁄4 inch just like that and then you can press and then top stitch along the top edges to close the opening so you want to repeat to make the remaining card pocket panel exactly the same way from the top center of the main body lining panel you want to measure 1 1⁄4 inch and then put a mark there fold the card pocket in half and then mark the top center point match the top center point of the card pocket panel with a 1 1⁄4 inch point mark make sure that everything is centered pin to secure them and then stitch the sides and the bottom to secure the pocket in place you may want to switch your needle to a larger size I use jean size needle here and I recommend to use walking foot it's just gonna make it much easier to go through all the layers without shifting the fabric too much and of course make sure to backstitch at the beginning and towards the end to make sure that everything is secure so you should end up with something like this now you want to repeat to attach the remaining pocket to the opposite side take two side panel pieces lay them right sides together and then pin and then you want to stitch all around leaving about two inches of opening at the top to turn this panel inside out once you've done that you wanna snip all the corners be careful not to cut through the stitches and then turn right side out through the top opening hole use a point turner or knitting needle or chopstick to poke all the corners make them nice and neat fold the raw edges from the top opening towards the wrong side about quarter of an inch and then press and then top stitch the sides and the top edge once you've done that repeat the same to the remaining panels so you should have two side panels set this aside and then we're gonna work on the zipper pocket for the zipper pocket we're gonna use a regular all-purpose zipper at least six inches long and you wanna cut four panels two for the exterior and two for the interior lay one zipper pocket panel right side up stick a basting tape along the top edge now take the zipper and lay that right side down again stick a basting tape along the top edge and then take one zipper panel and lay that right side down matching the top and the side edges once everything is secured stitch with quarter of an inch seam allowance once you've done that you wanna flip to the right side and then finger press the seams both the exterior and the interior and then top stitch now you wanna repeat to sew the remaining pocket panels to the opposite side exactly the same way trim off any excess zipper now let's fold this in half so that the zipper will be on top make sure to match the sides and the bottom edges pin to secure the side edges and then baste stitch along the sides with about an eighth of an inch seam allowance next we're gonna bind the bottom edge of the pocket panel so you wanna lay the binding right side down just like that and then stitch with quarter of an inch seam allowance now press the seams down towards the binding just like that flip to the wrong side and then fold the edge of the binding towards the center so that it will be sitting against the raw edges and then press now let's fold the binding one more time all the way up so that it will be hugging the bottom raw edges of the pocket panel just like that and then press now let's flip this to the opposite side and then you want to stitch right along the edges of the seams to secure the binding find the center point of the side panel by folding it in half lengthwise and then press so that you will get the center fold crease now take the zipper pocket panel and position the side edge of the zipper pocket right on the center fold line you want to match the bottom edge of the zipper pocket with the bottom edge of the side panel so the side panel should be sort of hugging the zipper pocket and then you want to secure with some clips and then you want to stitch to secure this with about quarter of an inch seam allowance so you should end up with something like this now you want to repeat to attach the remaining side panel to the opposite side exactly the same way next we're gonna work on the zipper closure so let's prepare the zipper you want to use size 5 zipper it's about 1 1⁄4 inch wide and the length of the zipper should be exactly 17 1⁄2 inch if you use zipper by the yard make sure to stitch back and forth about quarter of an inch from the end of the zipper measure one and a half inch from the edge of the zipper and then mark it on the right side and on the wrong side both sides and you want to do the same to the opposite side of the zipper next we're gonna mark the center point of the zipper so fold the zipper in half matching the edges and then snip or mark right along the center fold now you wanna unzip the zipper take the wallet interior and lay that right side up we're gonna attach the zipper one side at the time now grab the start of the zipper and then you wanna match the 1 1⁄2 inch point mark with the center point of the wallet interior make sure that the zipper is facing right side up and then pin now grab the opposite end of the zipper and you want to also match the 1 1⁄2 inch point mark to the center point marking just like that and then pin now match the center point of the zipper with the top center point of the wallet interior and then pin continue pinning all around except of the corners as usual we're gonna hand baste the corners snip the edges of the zipper tape about 1⁄8 of an inch this will help the fabric to relax and able to lay flat grab a hand sewing needle and a thread and then hand baste along the corner there with simple running stitches now if your zipper tape cannot reach all the way to the corner is totally fine next you wanna snip or mark the notches on the zipper tape make sure to mark the notches that is on the corresponding side not the further ones which are for the opposite side so i'm just using my fabric marker here to mark the exact same position of the notches so you want to stitch starting from the notch which is about quarter of an inch from the center point mark and then you want to stop stitching right on the notch or quarter of an inch before the center point mark all right now make sure to switch to your zipper foot and again we're gonna start stitching from the notch marking which is quarter of an inch from the center point so here i position my needle right on the notch and then start stitching all around you want to use quarter of an inch seam allowance as you can see it's very easy to go through the corner since we've already hand basted that area and then stop stitching right on the notch or about quarter of an inch before the center point now we're gonna attach the remaining zipper tape to the opposite side so we're gonna do this pretty much the same way like before at the start of the zipper you want to match the one and a half inch point marking to the center point mark and get the other zipper tape out of the way and then pin and then you wanna do the same to the opposite side and then match the center point and then continue pinning all around and of course hand baste the corners and don't forget to mark the notches of the corresponding side and then go ahead and stitch just like before we're gonna start stitching from the notch and then go all around and then stop stitching also on the notch or quarter of an inch before the center point so your wallet interior should look just like this after the zipper has been attached now let's trim off any excess fabric around the corners now it's time to assemble the wallet so take the wallet exterior and lay that right side down now you want to make sure that all the excess zippers are facing out so we're gonna stitch this one side at a time first you want to match the notches and then pin and repeat the same to the opposite side and then match the top center point and then pin once we've got all three points pinned we're gonna continue pinning any excess exterior fabric around the corner you can just ignore them for now we will trim them off later after we sew once everything is secure with the wallet interior facing up you want to stitch starting from the notch go all around and then stop at the opposite notch all right first let's slide the fabric over and make sure that the needle will be sitting right on the first notch make sure that the excess zipper tape is facing out and out of the way so there is no bunching up over there of course we're gonna use quarter of an inch seam allowance and as you get to the opposite side keep your eye on the notch and make sure to stop stitching right on the notch now we're gonna work on the opposite side so let's first match all the notches and the top center point and make sure that the opposite side zipper tape tail is out of the way once everything is secured you want to remove the pin at the top center point make sure to have at least two and a half inch of opening in order to turn the wallet inside out later now let's stitch starting from the notch up to the first opening mark once you've done that continue stitching from the next opening marking down to the opposite notch trim off any excess fabric around the corners from the exterior fabric and then you want to trim off the side seam allowances you want to trim it down to an eighth of an inch or so and you just want to trim the seam allowances up to about half an inch from the notch now it's time to birth the wallet so first we're gonna push the zipper pull a little bit towards the inside just enough so that you can grab the zipper pull later just push it as further as you can towards the inside now through the opening hole you want to turn the wallet right side out so this may take a little bit of patience and wiggling around but you should be able to turn it inside out now make sure to poke all the corners make them nice and flat use a point turner or knitting needle fold the row edges from the opening towards the wrong side about quarter of an inch and then pin now measure 3 quarter of an inch from the center point of the wallet and then mark it with a disappearing fabric marker and do the same on the other side and then we're gonna top stitch starting from the 3 quarter of an inch point mark go all around towards the top and then stop right on the 3 quarter of an inch point mark on the other side still using my zipper foot here this stitching will also take care of the opening and once you've done that you want to repeat exactly the same way to the opposite side at this point if you want to press the exterior fabric you can go ahead and do that just be mindful with the zipper teeth draw a straight line across right on the center of the wallet interior just like shown on the screen right now all right now we're ready to attach this zipper pocket and the side panel to our wallet interior for that we're gonna do is hand stitching so prepare your hand stitching needle and thread so first we're gonna attach the zipper pocket to the center point of the wallet the one that we draw a line on earlier so you want to position the bottom edges of the zipper right on the center line and make sure that the start of the zipper pocket is facing the same direction as the start of the zipper closure center the position of the zipper pocket it should be a slight shorter so let's start hand stitching to attach the bottom edges I do slip stitching here almost the same method as when we finish binding basically you want to pick a small portion of the binding and then pull the thread through and then pick the small portion of the wallet interior and pull the thread through and you just want to alternate this until you get to the end I recommend to reinforce your stitching when starting and when finishing just like when you're back stitching when you sew with the sewing machine so that your seams will not easily come undone once you've sewn the bottom of the zipper pocket in place it's time to attach the side panel so let's bring the edge of the side panel towards the edge of the wallet interior just like that so the top edge of the side panel should be sitting right about half an inch above the card pocket panel and then you can pin along the edges there again make sure that the edge of the side panel is sitting right on the edge of the interior panel so now we're gonna hand stitch this also with the slip stitches you can start from the top or from the bottom it always fine again make sure to reinforce in the beginning and towards the end of the stitching so everything will be nice and secured and of course you want to make sure that when you pick the interior fabric that you won't accidentally catch the exterior fabric alright so here I've already attached one side now let's continue attaching the rest of the panels exactly the same way and finish the wallet and there you have it guys the zip around wallet is done so thank you so much for watching and I'll see you next time goodbye