Costume of Qing Dynasty

Hello everyone, last section we have talked about the menswear of Qing dynasty. Now let's continue to learn the knowledge points of women's wear of Qing dynasty. At the beginning of the Qing dynasty, the rulers prohibited Manchu and Mongolian women from imitating Han women's clothing. So Manchu women's general clothing also kept a certain distance from Han women. Qi Ren Zi Ban. Banner Ban refers to the Manchu Ban with Liang Ba Tou and Da La Chi. The hair is divided into two strands from the top of the head, with two flat bands on the left and right. A large flat square is inserted between the two flat bands. The top of the head looks like a Wan and also like a Ru Yi across the top of the head. Therefore, there are various titles such as Liang Ba Tou, Yi Zi Tou, Ru Yi Tou, etc. Before Dao Guang, there was a tassel for hair in the two flat bands, forming a T shape, wearing large flowers and bees in front and tassels hanging from the side. After the reign of Xian Feng in Qing dynasty, the Banner Ban gradually increased and its two corners also expanded. A crown shaped like a Wan was worn on it for the Qi Tou or Gong Zhuang, which is commonly referred to as Da La Chi. On top of the Banner Ban, there are also some silk flowers to be inserted and some silk ties to a side. Jacket. There are two types of styles. One sleeve is longer than arm and one sleeve is shorter than arm. The popular change of length and thickness of clothes is similar to that of men's jacket. However, women's men's jacket is decorated with full body color and lace. Waistcoat. It is a sleeveless jacket with a short body. It has several styles such as one-character lapel, pipa lapel, double lapel, big twist lapel, herringbone lapel, etc. It is usually worn outside the Chang Yi, Chan Yi and Qi Pao. Jacket straps. Gua Lan. Gua Lan is a long waistcoat worn by women outside the Gong when it is cool in spring and autumn. This kind of waistcoat is round neck, double-breasted, straight, sleeveless, left and right, and back open, with both sides open to the underarm. The front chest and upper end of the open are decorated with a Ru Yi head shape, Ru Yi Tou, respectively. The whole body is trimmed. The two armpits are each decorated with two long straps reaching below the knee in length. Shirt. Qing Dynasty women's shirts are round neck, right lapel, straight body, flat sleeve, long garments with no open parts, and five buttons. Sleeves are of two types. Comfortable sleeve, sleeve length to wrist, and half-width sleeve. Cuff with two layers attached to short-width sleeve with additional decorative cuff inside the sleeve end. It is a woman's ordinary carrier clothes. Most of them are Rong Xiu, Na Sha, Ping Jin, Zhi Hua. In the late Qing Dynasty, more and more ornaments were added to the whole body. They often wear waistcoats over their shirts at skin and cotton in autumn and winter. Han women are still dominated by coats and skirts. Skirts and jackets follow the Ming Dynasty and are mostly round colors. The right lapel, double lapel, pipa lapel, and button lapel are tied together. From the early Qing Dynasty to the late Qing Dynasty, there were a few changes in the clothing structure. After Shun Zhi, the sleeves of the shirt and jacket were narrower than those of Ming Dynasty, generally about 30 centimeters wide, with embroidery only at the front and cuffs. During the Jia Qing years, more and more trim was added and the cuffs became wider. During the reign of Xian Feng and Tong Zhi, northern women became more fashionable with more trim. At that time, there was a scene of 18 trim, Shi Ba Xiang Guan. During the reign of Emperor Guang Xu and Emperor Xuan Tong, the sleeves became small and short, often revealing the shirt inside. The jackets were also popular in short styles, with colors as high as 6 centimeters or more. Skirts are mainly worn by Han women. Manchu women usually do not wear skirts except chao qun. By the late Qing Dynasty, Han and Manchu costumes were exchanged and worn by Han and Manchu women. Qing Dynasty skirts include plaited skirts, horse-fisted sheep skirts, langan skirts, fish scale skirts, phoenix tail skirts, red and happy skirts, jade skirts, yuehua skirts, inked flower skirts, thick blue clothes skirts, and so on. Cloud shoulder is an ornament worn by women on their shoulders, which has existed for five generations dynasties. Women in Ming Dynasty are used as decorations on formal dresses, and women in Qing Dynasty are also used on wedding dresses. The cloud shoulder used by aristocrats' women is shaped like a lotus flower, or the knot line is wreathed in pearls with a row of whiskers hanging around. The cloud shoulder used by Empress Dowager Cixi was made of large and round pearls. One cloud shoulder was woven with 3,500 pearls. A bell cape, a bell is also called a cape. It is a sleeveless long coat with no sleeves. It is called huhu ba in Manchu, and is also called a coat. There are two styles, one with a tight neckline, and other with a high collar, and the other with a low collar. Both men and women wear them, and officials can wear out a bufu. A bell must be removed when saluting. Otherwise, it will be regarded as ungracious. A bell worn by women in made of bright silk and satin with embroidered pattern. The lining is made of fur. Okay, that's all the content of this course. The content of next course will be knowledge points, costume of See you next course.