Gyoza - JAPAN DELISH

Japan Delish. It's all about the gyoza. Originating in China, it's believed that they've been eaten for over 2,500 years. Gyoza were first introduced to Japan in 1707. Entering the 20th century, recipes for home cooks began to be published. However... But after the Second World War, they'd develop a distinctly Japanese identity. How did gyoza from China come to be so beloved in Japan? Taste the delicious truth for yourself. Yokohama, Chinatown. Established by Chinese immigrants to Japan in the 19th century. Let's look at the original gyoza dumplings that came from China. Ground meat and garlic chives are the filling used by this chef from Shandong. In China, gyoza are commonly boiled. Kusano Miho studies Chinese culinary culture. So what about Japanese-style gyoza? Also in Yokohama, this venerable eatery has been in business for over 75 years. The filling is napa cabbage and ground meat, with ginger and garlic also added. Wrapped in their skins, they're pan-seared at high heat. Water is then added to steam and cook them through. In other words, Japanese gyoza are both fried and steamed, golden brown on the outside. On the table are soy sauce, vinegar, chili oil and pepper. Customers combine them as they like to make a sauce in which the gyoza are dipped and eaten. Fukuda Daichi says his gyoza recipe was inspired by his grandmother's experience in China. In the 1930s, many Japanese resided in northern China. A magazine from the time features an article on what they ate. Japanese people prefer fried gyoza over those that are boiled in water. Having dined at over 3,000 eateries that make them, food critic Skada Ryoichi promotes their appeal far and wide. Here's what he thinks. In northern China, thick-skinned dumplings were a staple food. But for the Japanese, whose staple food was rice, they were a side dish. So thin-skinned and savory fried gyoza were the favorite. It's delicious when you eat it with a variety of things. For example, ramen, gyoza, fried rice and gyoza. You can eat it as a snack for alcohol. I think that's one of the charms of fried gyoza. After the Second World War, Japanese returning from China popularized the fried gyoza they had come to love. The method of pan-frying led to the birth of the distinctly Japanese gyoza. With an extra crispy layer surrounding their base, this dish is known as gyoza with wings. It's so good! To make the wings, once the gyoza are laid out on the griddle, a thin wheat flour batter is poured over them. Then a drizzle of vegetable oil to finish. This distinctive style of gyoza is the creation of restaurant founder, 90-year-old Yagi Isao. Yagi was born in China in 1934 to a Japanese father who ran a restaurant and a Chinese mother. After returning to Japan, they often served boiled Chinese dumplings. 1983, his first restaurant opens. Gyoza with wings became all the rage, and there were long lines of customers every day. First adopted as a side dish for rice, the Japanese have developed many gyoza variations. Giant gyoza, twice the normal size. Tiny, bite-sized gyoza. Gyoza eaten dipped in miso. From seafood to cheese and more, the fillings are nearly limitless. Gyoza's role as a side dish continues to evolve. In the 1950s, pre-made gyoza wrappers went on sale in Japan. Thanks to this, gyoza would become a regular sight at the dining table. In the 1960s, refrigerator freezers first appeared on the Japanese market. By around 1970, refrigerator ownership would top 90%, and something that would make gyoza more popular than ever first appeared. The sale of home-use frozen foods. Now an impressive array of foods, from side dishes to noodles and even desserts, are commonly available in Japan. And among this huge variety of products, the biggest seller of all is frozen, ready-made gyoza, unchallenged in the top spot since 2003. The company that developed them first brought frozen gyoza to the market in 1972. To make gyoza by hand, vegetables must be finely minced, blended with ground meat and then wrapped one by one. A lot of effort for a home cook. Pre-made gyoza are steamed in the factory and then flash frozen. Then all they need is a quick dip in the frying pan at home and they're ready to eat. This maker sells some 100 million packs of frozen gyoza annually. As people's lifestyles change, and as people go out more and more, and as they get busier, the demand for home-cooked meals increases. And I think that's why gyoza are so popular, because of the amount of food they serve. It's so full of energy! I don't complain about the amount of food I serve. So I rely on them. Itadakimasu! I'm so grateful for the gyoza. It's got all the vegetables and meat in it. I can finish it with this. And if it's not enough, I can add more. Are you going to eat it all? No, I'm going to make another one. Then you can eat the whole thing. That's right. In 1987, a major event in the history of Japanese gyoza occurs. For the first time, they appeared on the list of items in a government survey on household expenditures. And since then, one city has topped the list for spending on gyoza an astonishing 26 times. Some 100 kilometers north of Tokyo, Utsunomiya in Tochigi Prefecture. In front of the station is a gyoza-themed monument. Gyoza manhole covers. Gyoza streetlights. Gyoza-shaped paper fortunes at the Shinto shrine. Gyoza are nearly everywhere. Here in Utsunomiya, over 300 restaurants have gyoza on the menu. Gyoza have become a part of our daily lives in Utsunomiya. I can't imagine a life without gyoza. I eat one serving of gyoza on my way home from school. It smells like garlic. Gyoza street in the center of town is lined with gyoza specialty shops. The oldest still in existence is this one, founded in 1958. The menu features three types of gyoza. Pan-fried, deep-fried, or boiled. Rice and beer, and that's all. Naturally, pan-fried gyoza are the most popular. Daughter of the original founder, 80-year-old Ito Tomoko. After the war, her mother opened a restaurant in Utsunomiya, serving the gyoza she'd learned to make while they were living in China. In fact, Utsunomiya had been home to a former Imperial Japanese army garrison, and many people repatriated from China came here after the war. Hiratsuka Ko, who runs another long-standing Utsunomiya gyoza shop, is also a returnee from China. When I came back to Japan, I moved into a dormitory called Hikiage-ryo. My mother and I would make gyoza together. We all had memories of being in China. In 1987, Utsunomiya, a city that had always loved gyoza, spent more money on them than any other city. A few years later, the city took notice and saw gyoza as a way to enliven their town. The project is the brainchild of the head of the Commerce and Tourism Division. He visited local gyoza restaurants and asked for their help in the revitalization project. Hiratsuka was one of the people they turned to. To be honest, I didn't think it would be a good idea to connect Utsunomiya with gyoza. The Utsunomiya Gyoza Association was founded in 1993, promoting the city's gyoza at events nationwide. Current association head, Suzuki Akihiro, continues in the spirit of those who came before him. The most important thing is that the government and the people walk together. We have to make the city a place where people want to come again. Since 1999, a festival has been held, bringing together gyoza restaurants from the area. In 2023, over 200,000 people attended. When I was sitting on the train, I was talking about Utsunomiya. I was like, wow, I didn't know gyoza was such a hot topic. I was a bit surprised. People from all over Japan flock to Utsunomiya for gyoza. But in 2011, a new challenger arrived, dethroning Utsunomiya, the reigning champion. Hamamatsu, Shizuoka Prefecture. Their annual expenditure on gyoza surpassed Utsunomiya, making them number one in Japan. At this local supermarket, the deli counter is lined with gyoza. But why does this town love gyoza so much? According to a group promoting Hamamatsu Gyoza... Hamamatsu has a thriving manufacturing industry, producing cars, motorcycles and musical instruments. Over 3,800 businesses. Hamamatsu Gyoza are served in a special way. It started at this restaurant, founded in 1953. Gyoza were cooked in a frying pan and so arranged in a circle. When plating the finished product, this layer of gyoza is covered with a thin layer of egg yolk. A hole they filled with boiled bean sprouts. It was the founder's daughter, Osumi Sachie, who had the idea to add the sprouts. Hamamatsu is all about manufacturing, so naturally... ..it's the home of gyoza-making machines. The largest have a capacity of 10,000 pieces per hour. From factories to restaurants, they boast the top share of the domestic market. Developed by a former automotive parts supplier, the company's founder came up with the idea while eating gyoza in a restaurant. The size of the gyoza and the thickness of the skins varies from shop to shop, so every unit is custom-made. Skilled workers hand-craft moulds with millimetre precision to the client's exact specifications. To date, they've sold over 10,000 machines. To the south, there's a town rivalling both Utsunomiya and Hamamatsu for love of gyoza. Miyazaki is a popular resort town. In 2019, it ranked ninth in gyoza expenditure, but rapidly rose through the ranks, jumping to first place for two years in 2021. The head of the Miyazaki City Gyoza Council. The Japanese love for gyoza. So powerful, it can change the face of an entire town. A gyoza event held in Aichi Prefecture. This is the sixth year it's been held, and over three days, some 30,000 people attended. Nearly 30 different local gyoza varieties from all over Japan were represented. From Tokushima, gyoza garnished with sudachi, a local citrus fruit. Fukuoka gyoza with a sauce made from the spicy, salted cod roe the area is known for. These have a shape inspired by the hair of Nara's famous Great Buddha statue. Gyoza, beloved nationwide. Perhaps at this very moment, a new version is being born somewhere in Japan. The distinctive gyoza that evolved in Japan are now taking flight to the rest of the world. Boasting the top share of the domestic gyoza machine market, this maker exports their products to over 50 countries and territories, including the US and France. And this frozen gyoza maker has been selling their products in Europe since 2005. Last year, they opened a new gyoza production line in France. Frozen gyoza, now on the market for over half a century, and this maker's products continue to evolve. Their latest offering can be prepared simply by frying, with no need for added oil or water. The new gyoza maker is the first in the world But in 2023, an unexpected consumer comment appeared on social media. These frozen gyoza stick to the pan. In response, the manufacturer asked households all over Japan to send in their frying pans. Over 3,500 were collected. And around 500 also came with letters attached. This pan always ruined the best part of the frozen gyoza, so I hated it. But I'd had it for over 10 years since my days in university and couldn't bear to throw it away. They're now working to develop gyoza that can be cooked in old pans without sticking. The improved version now works in about 30% of the pans they received. But in the remaining 70%, sticking remains a problem. Their research is still ongoing. In Japan, gyoza spread as a side dish served with rice, filled with the wisdom and experience of the people who made them. They now bring joy to people in restaurants and at home, both in Japan and around the globe. There are a lot of ingredients. I want people to come and see what makes Japanese gyoza special. It's a warm dish, because it has memories of family and other important things. It's a warm dish.