La Jayona, in Spain, is an iron mine abandoned over 100 years ago. A gigantic 80-hectare gorge, up to a hundred meters deep, condemned to be a barren desert of rock and rubble in a process similar to what the Earth experienced millions of years ago. But something absolutely extraordinary has happened within it. Wildlife has taken possession of this space, turning it into a unique ecosystem that is among the natural treasures of Europe.
Its microclimate allows the development of a unique vegetation completely alien to their environment, while it has become a refuge for many animal species, from amphibians to the almighty eagle owl.
It is still possible to find in its bowels traces of what gave rise to La Hayona.
These remains reflect the work of hundreds of men, women and children
who toiled with dynamite, pickaxes and shovels to laboriously prise out the iron ore
which it hoarded in its rocky heart.
The exploitation of this mine in the southwest of the Iberian Peninsula
began in the late 19th century.
It saw its most intense activity during the First World War
when the demand for iron increased enormously.
However, when peacetime came, it experienced a swift decline
which led to its definitive closure in 1921.
Silence then prevailed in this gigantic ravine of 80 hectares
which is barely one kilometer long and up to 100 meters deep.
In a few short years, the hand of man had brought this space back
to the primitive state of the planet Earth thousands of millions of years ago
when it was no more than a shapeless mixture of bare rocks wandering through the universe.
But something began to change at La Hayona.
Here too, in this place lost to the world where rock and semi-darkness reign
there are signs that the winter is beating a retreat.
Wrapped in their wings, the bats have spent the coldest months hibernating in this hideout
awaiting a spring which some of them will not see.
The excitement of the life which is being reborn outside
appears to slip through to this remote place
electrifying the colony
and encouraging it to finally abandon the security of a refuge
which is also a true natural treasure.
The disconcerting secret which is La Hayona
is concealed among the olive groves,
holm oaks and other vegetation characteristic of Mediterranean woodland
which covers the southwest of the Iberian Peninsula.
It began as a brutal wound caused by human beings
which nature had been stanching until it became an Eden
overflowing with animal and plant life.
This extraordinary process of rebirth
has converted this abandoned mine into a unique ecosystem.
What seemed to be doomed to being a sterile underground desert
has become an explosion of life.
The murmur of the wind and the rain caressing the bare walls of this desolate wound
has replaced the din made by the miners.
They were the advanced party of an amazing transformation
which still continues.
To some extent, La Hayona is a tiny planet within the planet
which experienced a similar process hundreds of millions of years ago.
The fruit of chance and the laws of physics and chemistry,
the emergence of life.
And as was the case on Earth,
here also mosses, lichens and later ferns
were the pioneers of this colonization.
For this to occur, the environment benefited from the conditions
created by the unusual configuration of the mine
which gave rise to a climate of its own
with high humidity, mild and stable temperatures
and limited exposure to sunlight.
This hackberry should not be here.
But the special environmental conditions of this site
make it an oasis for this relative of the elm.
The remains which stain its base
belong to another peculiar inhabitant of La Hayona.
The tawny owl is a shy bird of prey
which is very hard to see as it is nocturnal.
But now in the middle of the breeding season,
the mother bird must extend her working day.
It seems that this effort will have its reward.
The young tawny owl, which already ventures outside the nest,
is waiting for its breakfast
while it pays attention to another master class on hunting.
Managing failure is part of learning
and patience is the best virtue of any great hunter.
The owlet will need to change its strategy.
For example, it must get nearer the so far fortunate mouse.
Her perseverance and her silent flight
have finally given the mother tawny owl
the reward of a good meal for her chick.
Despite the constant pressure exerted by their predators,
mice find a very favorable habitat at La Hayona
with abundant food and many nooks and crannies
in which to make their burrows
where they store food and give birth to their litters.
It is the breeding season for mice
which means a hectic nomadic life for the males.
They are polygamous and cover considerable distances
in search of the largest possible number of females with which to mate.
Once he has achieved his objective,
the male will leave in search of further opportunities.
Meanwhile, the female prepares for motherhood.
With loving care, the mother cleans and settles
each new arrival into the world of La Hayona
in the burrow which she has covered with grass and dry leaves.
No doubt she has plenty of experience at this.
A female mouse may raise as many as seven litters in a single year.
As occurred on Earth, the new world of La Hayona
stopped being only green
when it was flooded with color with the arrival of flowers.
The orchids which grow here
are outstanding in both their variety and their abundance
which is exceptional in these latitudes.
They are accompanied by a multitude of other flowers
which offer themselves to all kinds of insects
to be pollinated in exchange for food.
Each one of these tiny beings symbolizes the vital energy
which has made possible the hidden miracle of La Hayona.
The perpetuation of life is also stirring within this little owl.
It is its mating season
as can be appreciated from the constant calling to each other
of male and female.
Over time, they approach each other in a more and more excited manner
until the loving encounter finally occurs.
They culminate it without paying any attention
to the other inhabitants of the mine.
What now concerns this male blue rock thrush
is the rearing of his chicks.
He shares this task with the female.
For this shy rock-dwelling bird which is hard to observe
La Hayona provides plenty of its favorite foods
from insects to fruit
and excellent nesting sites.
The male, which is recognizable by his deep blue plumage
does not leave after feeding the young.
He must carry out another essential task
if his brood is to remain healthy.
When he removes the fecal sac produced by the chicks
he not only avoids sanitary problems in the nest
but also ensures that possible predators
are not attracted by its smell.
Another inhabitant of La Hayona is also out hunting.
There is no doubt that it is well equipped to do so.
Through the hairs on its legs
the wolf spider perceives vibrations caused by possible prey.
It also has eight eyes
which it can direct in different directions.
It is also one of the largest spiders in Europe.
This means that a grasshopper which comes across it
must take great care.
It had no chance.
Now the spider only has to wait
to gradually absorb the juices of its victim.
Outside the old mine
all is different.
A Mediterranean climate of harsh dry summers
prevails in an infinite landscape of olive groves
and pasture lands which is the haunt of hoopoes.
The hollows at the base of an ancient olive tree
are a great place for rearing their family.
Hoopoes tend to be faithful to their mates and nesting sites.
Once she has chosen the spot
the female only cleans it conscientiously
before laying her eggs and incubating them.
But hoopoes have catholic tastes
when it comes to nesting sites.
They also like to nest in open clefts
on slopes such as these.
It is also not unusual for them to use cracks in buildings
walls or ruins.
Their long fine bill
is a highly efficient tool for searching in the grass
and penetrating cracks in the ground
which are hiding places for insects
larvae, earthworms and small reptiles
which are their favorite food.
The pair of blue rock thrushes
which is breeding at La Hayona
does not have a minute's rest.
Their nests are as hard to see as the birds themselves.
They seek places as hidden and inaccessible as possible
for building a framework of roots and dried grass
where the female normally lays between two and five eggs.
Fed constantly by their parents
the young rock thrushes will be ready to leave the nest
barely two weeks after the eggs have hatched.
When the kingdom of the shadows of the night
comes over La Hayona
is when its nocturnal hunters stir abroad.
Its undisputed king is the eagle owl.
The most formidable of European nocturnal birds of prey.
Its mournful hooting tears through the darkness
which envelops the mine.
All its inhabitants know what this means.
The super predator is out hunting.
No one can feel safe
not even other hunters.
The sound is only comforting for the young eagle owls.
It means that one of their parents
will not take long to bring them food.
Eagle owls are undemanding
as to where they bring their descendants into the world
although finding the spot is not easy.
This is because the night of La Hayona
holds many dangers for these eagle owl chicks.
The stone marten is patrolling its territory.
This solitary nocturnal carnivore
establishes a precise territory
where it seeks its food
which it defends from others of its species.
For example, it finds the body of a small bird
which may have fallen out of its nest.
Although the stone marten is not a finicky eater
well-fed chicks would be a true delicacy for it.
Fortunately for the owlets
it has not discovered their hiding place
at least not tonight.
In the galleries of the abandoned mine
it is now the worker ants
which work unceasingly to take food to their ant hill.
Their activity has alerted a terrible predator for them
the ant lion.
Despite its name, it is not a species of ant.
It is a neuropteran which feeds on ants themselves.
In order to catch them
it becomes a miner up to a point.
It starts work by dragging itself along the ground
using its abdomen as a plow to draw a circle.
This constitutes a trap for hunting ants.
When it has finished
it buries itself in the center of the trap.
Now it only has to wait.
The slope of the cone and the loose grains of sand
give the ant no escape.
In addition, the ant lion sprays it with sand
from the bottom of the trap
while undermining the sides of the cone.
All this causes a collapse
which drags the prey down.
When the victim is at the mercy of its jaws
the ant lion injects toxins into it
to paralyze it.
The ant is doomed.
Water, the great maker and mainstay
of this hidden paradise
creates here and there small pools
in the deepest areas of the mine
where various species of amphibians
such as the common salamander thrive.
This animal is not fast-moving
and has no body armor
to protect it from predators.
It only has striking yellow patches
which constitute a visual warning code.
Do not eat. Nasty taste.
The anxious breathing and erect posture
of this male common salamander
show that he is in season.
Salamanders live their lives on dry land
but they are born in the water
which is where the female gives birth
to larvae which are already formed.
So being the master of this place
makes the male irresistibly attractive.
But if he wishes to maintain his position
he will have to fight
as another male is also looking for a mate.
The fight was short but intense
before the weaker male
acknowledged his inferiority
and abandoned the battlefield
to leave the winner
proudly boasting of his exploits.
The deepest bowels of the earth
also provide a splendid lair
where these inoffensive winged mammals live.
Bats have a poor reputation
which is quite unjust
as they are highly beneficial
as predators of insects
and other invertebrates.
Various species often share the same space
and even intermingle.
La Hayona holds eight different species of bat
including the Lhasa and Mehelis horseshoe bats
and the grey long-eared bat.
The females form large breeding colonies
from which the males are excluded.
During their first weeks of life
the young bats do not leave their mothers
even when the latter fly out of the cave
to seek food.
Bats are just one example
of the rich biodiversity
which has arisen
from the abandoned ruins of the mine.
Another of its inhabitants
can be heard long before it is seen.
The cooing of the rock pigeons
bounces off the walls of the galleries
where they nest
and inundates everything.
As they are the wild ancestors
of domestic pigeons
they frequently hybridize with the latter
and this sometimes makes it hard
to distinguish the two.
But what is clear
is that those which have chosen La Hayona
as a nesting site
want no slavery.
Whether they have been born in the wild
or are feral birds
which have escaped from life alongside humans
they have chosen their freedom.
The largest European species of newt
thrives in the wettest areas of this habitat.
The Iberian ribbed newt
spends its time between land and water
and in common with its relative
the common salamander
has few means of defence.
The coloured patches on its sides
coincide with the edge of its ribs.
If it feels threatened
the Iberian ribbed newt
makes them stand out
and at the same time
secretes a toxic substance
which irritates the mucous membranes
of the mouth of any unwary animal
which tries to eat it.
Its best defence however
is always to seek the security
of the bottom of a pool.
The eagle owl's night of hunting
has ended with the first light of day.
Until darkness returns
it will spend its time
continuously guarding its nest.
It cannot relax
because another outstanding hunter
is also in the vicinity.
The genet approaches along the branches
of a fig tree.
Fortunately for the owlets
it is not their scent
which seems to be attracting it.
Although it is essentially carnivorous
tonight it prefers
a vegetarian diet of succulent figs
which are moreover
much easier to capture.
Or perhaps not.
The genet and the fig tree
which is now offering it the fruit
which is proving so hard to obtain
share a common history.
Both their ancestors
reached the Iberian peninsula
owing to human intervention.
While the genet was brought
from North Africa
the fig tree appears to have
originated in the Eastern Mediterranean
and South West Asia
where it was one of the first plants
to be cultivated by man.
Now two of their descendants
are here following the trail
of their ancestors
and have colonized this new hidden world
of La Rayona.
The genet's favorite food
is plentiful in the vicinity.
But for the moment
mice and owlets can feel safe.
At least as long as
there are slippery figs to be pursued.
In this unusual
place the unthinkable
is hidden. It has become
a secret natural treasure
which is the home of creatures that seem to have
come out of a fairy tale.
Such as the caterpillar of the
swallowtail butterfly.
This
caterpillar is in its second growth stage
which marks the end of its
development.
Now is when it adopts
this psychedelic coloration
to dissuade possible attackers.
If even so
it is disturbed
it has fleshy structures on its head
which it raises to release chemical
substances capable of frightening
away ants, flies
or wasps.
Unfortunately for the caterpillar
these emissions are insufficient
to keep away the birds which are its
main predators.
For the moment
this caterpillar can continue to enjoy
a banquet of fennel.
One of its favorite foods.
It has to feed itself well
because a vital event in its life
will soon take place.
Something is happening outside the mice's
home as mother mouse is
looking out in alarm.
But there is no danger.
A group of harmless snails
is just passing by.
The constantly high humidity
of La Jona is greatly
to the liking of these hermaphrodite
mollusks.
They all produce both spermatozoids
and ovules but must mate
with a partner as they cannot
fertilize themselves.
They move forward
by contracting and elongating
their whole bodies with the help
of mucus which both avoids
friction and is useful for overcoming
slopes.
But it also helps them in many other ways.
It contributes towards
regulating their temperature,
protects them from injuries, bacteria
and fungus,
repels dangerous insects
and also helps them to eliminate
heavy metals from their organisms.
Now thanks to the
mucus they can finally reach
that delicious lupine plant.
The margins
which delimit the abyss of La Jona
constitute a border between
two opposing worlds.
If down below
humidity, semi-darkness
and coolness prevail,
here above nothing protects
the plants and animals from the punishing
sun.
The flowers of the thistles have dried
out and a flock of green finches
swoop down on them in search
of seeds.
Now they are ready for the wind to disperse
them, clinging to the pappus
which the birds must eliminate with their
powerful bills before eating the
seeds.
The thistle field has
plenty of food for all,
but is not without its dangers.
The green finches have entered the territory
of a little owl which does not
take its eyes off them.
Perhaps it is annoyed by
so many inconvenient visitors
or perhaps it is
awaiting an opportunity to add
a plump green finch to the diet
of the chicks back at the nest.
The owlets are
so voracious that their parents
which are habitually nocturnal
predators usually continue
to hunt even in the middle of the day.
But today
the young little owls
will not have green finch for breakfast.
During
the period of about five weeks
which must pass before the owlets are
able to fly and fend for themselves
they depend completely on
what their parents manage to capture
to feed them.
They are generally brought a rich
and varied diet.
In addition to field mice, they also
devour small birds and reptiles,
insects and even
amphibians.
Only the appearance of a possible
threat diverts the busy parents
from their task.
The arrival of a black kite
makes all the tenants of the crags
alert.
Although it is above all a
carrion feeder, it is also a
bold hunter from which almost
nothing is safe.
Prudence dictates that
the best course of action is to
hide from its eyes inside the nests.
But it is a very hot day
and thirst is strong
enough to overcome fear.
A new player
enters the stage where we have a
life or death situation.
This booted eagle
has also set its sights on the reckless
and thirsty rock pigeon.
The shadow of the frustrated black
kite doesn't worry it too much.
Both
birds know who has won this match
and how short-sighted it would be
to try to snatch the trophy from the eagle.
When the booted eagle has
finished its meal and leaves,
the inhabitants of the crags breathe
a sigh of relief, at least as
far as the threat of a predator is concerned,
because arguments
between neighbors are as frequent
as they are annoying.
The pair of
little owls sees with growing irritation
how their neighbors do not
hesitate to occupy their favorite
perches with shameful impudence.
It is clear
that their more and more frequent warnings
are not being heeded.
They will have to take stronger
measures.
Far from the bustle
and the disputes of the pasture land which
surrounds the mine of La Jona,
in a recondite spot in the foliage,
one of its inhabitants prepares
for a vital change in its existence.
The semi-transparent
substance which the caterpillar of the
swallowtail butterfly is secreting
indicates that it is initiating
its final metamorphosis.
It slowly fastens
itself to the chosen branch
by making a belt with which it strengthens
its upper part.
With the same aim,
it has also woven a silken network
on the lower part of its body.
Once it is firmly
fastened, it takes one or two
days to undergo its final
change.
It frees itself of its colorful
costume to transform itself
from a caterpillar into a chrysalis.
Within, a marvel
of evolution is beginning to take
place.
An animal
which a few short days ago
was an incredibly well adapted machine
for devouring food
has got rid of its body to
reconstruct it as a totally different
and fascinating organism.
It only remains
for the haemolymph, the transparent
blood of invertebrates, to swell
and fill out its wings.
It has
before it a few frenzied
weeks in which the swallowtail butterfly
will fly to find a mate
in order to breed before it dies.
In the
hoopoe's nest at the foot of the old
olive tree, the birds are also
facing a growth crisis.
To be precise, it is the elder
of the chicks who is in this situation.
The parents
consider that the time has come for it
to finally abandon the nest.
As the chick
does not seem to agree with them at all,
the adults tempt it by
pretending to feed it so as to
draw it from its comfortable hideout.
While the
decision is being made, the parents
continue to feed its brother,
which must be very frustrating for
the hungry young bird.
It cannot understand
so much insistence on its leaving
if there is nothing it can eat there,
not to mention the dangers
which may be lying in wait for it.
No,
it is better to return to the safety
of the nest.
And perhaps if it occupies
its brother's place, it can deceive
their parents.
The attempt is in vain.
The parental decision is very
firm. The young bird
understands that there is nothing for it
but to undertake the first flight
of its life.
The younger bird
will still enjoy a few extra
days of its carefree existence
before following in the footsteps of
its elder brother.
At the top of one of the many
fig trees which grow in the heart of
La Hayona, a pair of European
goldfinches is raising a new brood.
The favorable
conditions of the old mine
allow them to breed two or even
three times in the same season.
The site
appears to be excellent.
It is inaccessible to predators
and protected by the surroundings
from adverse weather, in particular
the terrible summer sun.
Or this has been the
case up to now.
The vicinity of the abandoned
mine is dominated by the
scorching summer and its long
harsh days of sun and drought.
The booted eagle
has just eaten and
is having a rest from its day of hunting
to regain its strength in a
shady area which protects it a little from
the fiery sun above the Mediterranean
woodland where its territory
lies.
Its mate is taking advantage
of the only pool that must remain
for many meters around to take
a refreshing bath.
The power of
the sun king is at its height
and it is even capable of reaching
those who had thought up to now
that they were safe from its rays.
The goldfinches go out of their
way to protect their chicks as best they
can, taking turns to shade
them with their wings while they withstand
the fire which falls from the sky
until they can bear it no
longer.
Tragedy strikes the goldfinch
family without mercy.
Such is daily life at
La Jona, with the dramas
and hopes involved in a place bursting
with wildlife, a truly
wonderful spot.
Because this site was
doomed to be a sterile mass
of rocks and abandoned rubble
after the end of its exploitation
as an iron mine.
It has, however,
ended up being a victory of nature.
This environmental
space of enormous botanical
and zoological interest deserves
to be considered one of the natural
treasures of Europe.
Its biography of a
buried new world is a peculiar
one on a unique space
written by human beings and nature.
A treasure full of vital energy
in the bowels of the earth.