Intermediate technique for climbing on the comp wall

Today we are back in my spiritual home. This is basically where Hannah Morris bouldering the channel began. We're here at volume one and we're in front of their comp wall which means only one thing, having a session on the comp wall. I figured I'd structure it in a slightly different way to how I sometimes structure my sessions and try and climb a bit more thoughtfully. So I'm not going to put a time limit on the climbs but I am going to put a go limit on. So I can only have three goes on each boulder and then with inspiration from a session I had with Louis at yonder a while ago we're going to think about what goes wrong if something goes wrong and what I need to change to do it better next time so that I'm like consciously climbing rather than just like falling off and trying again, burning myself out. I'm gonna pick a climb. I'm gonna try and climb it. I think I'm gonna go for something that I think I am likely to get by looking at it from the ground because I feel like a good confidence boost is what what you need at the beginning of a comp session. I'm gonna go for this square orange climb purely because I know that I really like the orange holds. flag on. I feel like you've got a lot of drop knees in which is quite good. I'm quite out of breath though so I don't know how great of a sign that is for the rest of the competition. Now I think because we're doing a comp pool I think I'm going to look for a dyno. Not something I often do in sessions especially on dynamic moves is really stop after each attempt and be like why was that not right? What did I do wrong? Bearing in mind that the way I'm talking makes it sound as though I'm like already going into this knowing that thinking that I won't get the move but something that I have worked a lot on in sessions over the last like year or so is especially for comp stuff and like jumpy dynamic moves to go in with a bit of belief and to go in with the like actually I could get it first go and like rather than have goes which are like tester goes, use every go as like send go or view every go as send go. So a bit of route reading which I feel like is important in comps. There's two feet here but there's also a foot here so I don't know if maybe I want to use that for the jump up to the blue pill or whether or not that comes after to build my feet once I've got the hold but I think I think I'm going to try and use it because I think I'll be able to use this foot this foot and this foot when I'm there. Okay change of plan. I didn't really like use my legs at all reached and then also I think I hadn't really committed to a plan from the get-go I just like I didn't use the foot that I thought I was going to use it yeah a lot of things to change but I think the main one I'm going to change is to commit now that I know I don't want to use that low foot but actually the reason I don't want to use that first because it felt too high so I'm just going to go straight feet planted and then bring my hips further into the wall and jump and then latch. I feel like it's a little bit better I think I'm still coming out a little bit more and I think I probably went for the latch a little greedily whereas I should have got the height and then gone for the grip so I've got one more go. I wonder if I need to twist in as well more and get it with like one hand because at the minute I'm going pretty straight onto it whereas maybe if I twisted in I could go with one arm. Okay so Nathan has just pointed out that one of the footholds is like higher up this one is higher up than this one so he he thinks maybe I go from left to right and push off with the right. So before we get into the rest of the comp session I wanted to introduce the sponsor of this video which is Surfshark VPN. Surfshark VPN is a VPN service with over 3200 servers in 95 countries so what that means for you in practical terms is that your private data is secured with military grade encryption which makes your online activity secure and safe. Perhaps you work in cafes a lot you rely on public wi-fi fairly often. Surfshark VPN offers a way for you to make sure that connecting to public unknown networks is safe for you and all of your private information is kept secure. 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Okay I'm gonna have one more go but Nathan's idea of going from the like transferring left to right and then pushing off the right and going with the left hand works. Okay one more go. Okay I'm pleased with that that's progress. Moving on to I really quite like the and what's really encouraging is I have like a bit of a plan for the next go which I think might help. So for the top the top hold's not that good it's quite like a bad pinch like slopey pinch that you can get a bit of a thumb involved with but you've got a like really deep heel lock which feels sketchy because it's like kind of above your head and well not quite above your head it feels like it's nearly above your head and then you have to let go of the hand which is like really stabilising but I think it's a balance thing like it's not a strength thing I think it's like getting your body into a lock to release the hand and I think to do that I'm going to get my right heel further on the hold so that I can rock over on it and like clamp more. That's my plan. Thank you. So now I'm gonna give myself adequate rest and go for it and then also with a first attempt of anything it's kind of obviously in comp climbing it the idea is that it shouldn't be this way but it's kind of an exploratory first go oftentimes in the gym when you're just having a session and then a second attempt you've learnt a lot about how the climb works so now I know that I can clean up the bottom section which means I might arrive at the top section with a little bit more energy in theory although I'm like notoriously bad at doing that. Oh a new bar. That was actually really interesting because the deeper the further right heel hook actually felt really bad and it put a lot more force through the right hand and so I was going on about it being like more of a balance thing but actually the top of that felt like I was pulling quite hard on that bad hold. The time previously I wasn't pulling so much so that's interesting I guess what I felt was the improved method was actually a step in the wrong direction but it's a learning experience. I need to have a think about what actually went wrong with that. If anyone is like a body mechanics interested climber and who knows like what was going on biomechanically then then do let me know because that was I was pretty sure that that was going to be like easier but it was a lot harder. I don't know let's move on let's move on to the steep section of the wall this is 45 40 50 45 degrees and we're moving on to this orange which to be perfectly honest looks like a sport route to me. It also looks quite pockety so maybe there's going to be precision involved and also like the 40 degree 45 degree is always the scariest part of the wall because it's like overhanging so much that you feel a lot more exposed, at least I do. There's a lot of moves to figure out so there's a lot of learning to be had. I'll just hop on and see. the holds are and the way you end up you could really muck up your sequence and it would make it a lot harder to like back climb and reclimb it right I think. Also I think it was really valuable in the start to like route read it with Nathan to not go for that pocket to go for the and when I got to that position the idea of kind of not just being pulling not just pulling directly down on the hold but having one hand like this I think it would have made it like harder. I think we should pick something slightly different like less steep and powerful and more technical maybe balancing maybe something slabby I have one in mind actually there's a red on the end which goes up through a groove which is kind of like powerful and overhung but it's also flexible and techie so and like body tensiony. This is a pentagon which at volume one they start at things actually one was is it acceptable to use the holes in the wall as little like edges second debate was how high do I want my leg because I thought that what I was going to end up doing was dropping the knee and reaching but what I actually ended up doing which felt more intuitive at the time was dropping down underneath these and getting a left foot up here and I think that's the right way for me it felt good so I'm gonna try again I know that I really struggle with these holds so often when I'm climbing comp climbing or not um I'm looking out for holds that I know I don't get on with and thinking about how I might be like going for those how I might be expected to use those in the climb so for this one if I were expected just to pull on this one I think I might really struggle because I know that I struggle with this hold so my leg against the wall beta is kind of um adapting my style of climbing to meet what I can see in front of me um but obviously sometimes or lots of the times you just have to negotiate the hold that you're given in the way that the route setter wants you to and that might just be like use the holds that you don't don't know how to use like I'm just at the end of my reach and I need to what's the word not lock off yeah like a deeper lock time of my session so and it's like it's one move off so I'm gonna gonna give it another go my back isn't happy with me at all oh no I think that brings to the end my session on the comp wall at volume one hope you enjoyed following along I had a really fun session um I tried to take you around like a variety of different problems I think that red one in the corner is like so interesting it's such a like physical full body climb um so yeah now I feel like I need to go and like stretch and recover for my next session so I will see you then thank you very much for watching if you like the video please like it subscribe leave a comment say which your favorite block was and I'll see you in my next video